e-minor

hi yes still here, project is ecactly where it was 4 years ago, I am still thinking of doing it, but my hard dash is a bit too nice to drill holes in - I will try and find time and get the ball joints welded on

right quick update after driving it for a few weeks and finalizing things, I made some new rods out of m4 go-cart track rod ends (or throttle body links) because I saw the front was sitting slightly high on the standard rubber rods, this has returned the ride harshness to the same as when it was on eas, its supprising how that 10 or 15 mm with of height at the front (and associated added air pressure) made the ride so much harder. I took out the ecu and reused the original relay wiring and made the light go out, I also managed to use the original height switches to do something, the lights tell me when the compressor is running, the the center inhibit switch turns the whole lot off if I ever need, I used the space under the seat where the eas was to do my own wiring and even put the pressure switch and a valve in there. I think the only disappointing thing is the air use is very high, I have now ordered a viair 444c compressor to keep up with the demand as my 'ring900' will fail if I keep pushing it to 150psi, and I am not keen on the system going flat over night but it does it equally and with 'some' grace, it just looks like its got broken suspension when its left for more than a few hours oh and the compressor is rubber isolated and that is an old server fan attached to the head for cooling

Yes that me... This soft dash keeps que jumping over my hard dash But the job is getting close now, see photo But that's for the other thread really

just realized i made a mistake with the photo comparisons, the ignition was off and the EAS lowers itself 'trying to put a leg down' when you stop the engine, thats why its so much lower

I did wonder about engine driven but my ac is working (soft dash) thanks for the name I will look it up, I have driven it on an A road today and the compressor doesn't cut in too many times about 5 times on a 13 mile journey, its worse in town where the weight is shifting more causing the valves to react more, it will be a while before it sees a motorway because I am away, but in contrast 3 miles in town will see the compressor start about 5 times too. when I was designing it in my mind, there ware two problems I thought would kill the idea, 1) 4 valves all trying to level on an uneven surface... I thought they would fight and oscillate, but they dont 2) when axle articulating the valve that is compressed will just give the bag full line pressure until its level - the eas was a bit more clever than this. Consider mounting a pavement with one wheel, the valve will push that wheel down as hard as it can - and the opposite extended side will release pressure down to a minimum. (ps the valves never let all the air out, so bags wont deform), where-as the eas allowed the wheel to rise. I do still like the results of what I have done but I generally swan about in mine and do simple load lifting trailer work and people in the back, I dont go serious offroading. I also dont know what it would do to my insurance validation...! disclaimer for anyone wanting to try this, do so at your own risk. I also got reminded to never get under an air spring vehicle when a bag bust off because I had allowed it to crease over. I really like how it acts on the road but unfortunately I changed the rear air bags at the same time so I cant really confirm whats made mine stiffer, the ride is harder, and allows you to go faster, I am driving about 10mph faster than I did before but bear in mind my old eas had got in a bit of a mess. see 2x photos showing the difference when articulating - I have labeled the image itself, the photo with the wheel in the arch further is the EAS Oh and I am working on a project to replace the boge on my hard dash with a cab air bag, ive started another post about it, (generally the same thing but simpler, just one valve and an air bag

this is true to be fair, ive got one on standard springs and one on air suspension, I love the air suspension leveling, and sitting at he right height, (nothing worse than a rrc thats not sitting straight), but the air does ride like carp, (yes ive changed shocks), when I drive my spring one its so much more comfortable

this could be done on a disco2 or anything like that probably a p38 too, the released air gets shed from the valve itself, there is a permanent air supply, (connection 1) bag feed (connection2) the valves add or subtract air faster the further away from the center it goes they are very satisfying in the way they work honestly!! then once its at the limit, there is a mechanical over run with a big spring (needed for when jacking up etc... ) cost wise as said 40 ish each, probably 50 quids worth of pushfit fittings - a pressure switch 150-120psi is availiable for about 5£ reuse the existing air tank, the compressor can either be used from the original air suspension mine was shot so at the moment ive got a ring 900 tyre inflator but thats on its limit dont think it will last long, (they cost 79£) I am eyeing up a "VIAIR 444C BLACK AIR RIDE 12v VOLT 200PSI " at 200£ PS lookup on ebay the following "QUALITY GO KART KARTING TRACK ROD ENDS ROSE JOINT BEARINGS M5" about 3£ each, I bought 8x of these and some m5 stailess rod so I could make some connecting rods levers, but would you beleive the standard rubber rods are the correct length near enough to make it sit at the right height, but if you want to you can then play with the height that it controls to. on my air supply ive used a 1/8 npt air valve (look up DC 12V Electric Solenoid Water Air Valve Diesel Gas Boiler 1/8") and a delay on timer so when the compressor starts is releases air from the line to atmosphere for about 2 seconds so the compressor is not starting against tank pressure, ive had compressors stall in the past and burn out. oh and finally mine seems to be acting like a Citroen now so overnight the whole lot goes flat, I dont know where the air is leaking from but be warned that the valves my seep so if you dont like the flat look or are worried about longterm sitting on bumpstops this may not be for you, or fit 4x solenoid valves to each airbag, if you have a mind for it you can design the system to work how you want, you could even put more solenoids in and make an access mode, I couldnt be bothered.

update - See videos the meter is pointing at the garage roof just gives an indication of movement All seems to be working well on testing, it is failry air hungry as the when driving the valves are fidgeting and releasing and adding air over every bump, obviously the valves are unintelligent and react straight away, its almost like active suspension it actually feels slight tighter on the road, as the vehicle leans the valves try and correct straight away Any questions ask (in@e-minor.co.uk)

I have range rover classic on standard air , and I have been through the mill like everyone else but I really like the self leveling suspension, after allot of issues with eas going up and down in traffic and spending allot of time and effort trying to sort the electronics I finally gave up, but I refuse to fit springs, so I have retro fitted mechanical lorry valves in the place of the height sensors and redone the air lines with ebay parts (6mm push fit air fittings and 6mm nylon tube) and the results are really good, the original sustem must have been based on these dimensions as the mechanical valves fell into place really See link to the picutres of the install I will add utube videos of it in action later the febi valve part number is 23563 http://www.e-minor.co.uk/motor/RR/eas-remove/

about 125mm... varies as the bag gets unfolded

yes the bag is over the shock absorber so it keeps the whole thing in line from ball joint to ball joint, one of the failed attempts was a air spring off an audi A8 (D3) when I released the pressure there was no shaft stability. so no good for the A frame setup, and it was too big, I did the whole thing by eye from the motor way and was looking at lorry cab air bags and spotted them, and I was lucky its nearly bang on. this all looks good in theory and It will all fit but the biggest issue may be when its all together I put 10 Bar (circa 150psi) in the airbag and the vehicle hardly moves, that will be game over really, 200psi Will be pushing it all too far. I will need to dig out the part numbers as the bag and the shock unit come as separate items, below is what I ordered... but the bloke emailed me and asked what lorry it was going on.... I said what I was doing and he sent 'something out', I need to physically get the part number off the shock itself to check SCANIA 4 SERIES REAR CAB SHOCK ABSORBER 1381906 (needs checking) SCANIA 4 SERIES CAB SUSPENSION AIR BAG 1424231 1349840 1x Febi Suspension Level Valve - 23563

I have two range rover classics and although my boge is still working - I am looking into an alternative project, its got its ups and downs, but the basics are in the picture, a scania series 4 cab air bag, truck air suspension valve and onboard compressor with a little reservoir - I like trick suspension and like the idea of it leveling as soon as someone gets in or out, its really not that expensive, 65 for cab airbag, 45quid for the febi valve, 65quid for ring900 compressor an old air cylinder of a broken jag for 45quid and some air line tubing, a pressure switch will be about 35 quid, 18£ for two new end joints the only issue I have to overcome with an engineering firm, is the connection between the ball joints (photoed at the ends in the plastic bags) and the threads on the cab suspension. it will need a machined piece made. Anyone with good eyesight can see the cab stem is allot smaller than original boge - but remember that is only the damper, the boge carries the force... and the damping, on my solution the shaft stabilizes and dampens, the bag and bag plate puts creates the force. Any how it may or may-not work, and its a slow project I will finish over the next year I expect,