GregK

Just for future reference I'm in Birmingham. If I can help I will be happy to help forum member. Just Pm me as I only look in here now and again when I have time. I've been forum member since nearly day one.

As @Peaklander says check the earths as incandescent bulb will need better earth for it to work than LED as it draws more current/power. If you have a white tow socket [12s] this will have reverse pin connection. But there is nothing to say that someone did not use one of the side light pins on your standard 12N tow socket for reverse. [I have seen it done] but this would have to have trailer and the vehicle connected the same way for it to work.

Long shot. Can you remove rear light lenses and check if you have by any chance a wrong bulb fitted [single filament instead of twin] and it back feeds power to the sidelights while braking. [ I have came across a bulb that has twin connectors at bottom of bulb but only 1 filament.] Have you got twin electrics to the tow bar? If so maybe a short inside one of the sockets especially when they get wet. I would also check the wires as they go thru back body in case there is no rubber gromets and insulation has chaffed and shorting out.

Merry Christmas everyone.

I only just bought it with a noisy Bearings . Oil came out nice and clean when I drained it so someone has changed it. Landy stud for a while unused so that might also be why it rusted. Or lack of oil at some point, more likely.

If clamping hoses pases the test and master is ok. Other thing you could try is wedge a brake pedal down and keep it down overnight, hopefully this will shift the airlock and give you a good brake pedal.

I have only done a dash and wiper motor cover on a series 3 [similar dash to 90/110] As long as you use a good quality and high temp spray adhesive you will be ok with 4 way stretch vinyl. Have a search on YT for ''Recovering a very bad Series 3 Land Rover dash''[britannica restorations] that should give you a little idea what to expect, I presume side panels shouldn't be to hard to do as long as they havent got to big indentations, if they have you might have to make some sort of contraption to press the vinyl in to indentation. You see in video what I mean. [Like around vents and screw indentations vinyl will not want to form to easily and will need a helping hand]

They sure seen better days. Oddly there was no spline wear on the input gear or mainshaft.

Just a little update. The noise ended up being a transfer-box input gear bearings. They were worn. Replaced with new bearings and cross drilled input gear in situ and it is a lot quieter. There is faint main shaft bearing noise in a gearbox but its ok for time being. When I get round to stripping second hand box I will replace all bearings and then put it in a landy. Thanks everyone for help and pointing me in a right direction

Yes rebuilding old boxes at my leisure is a plan for the future.

This one doing it while stationary with transfer box in neutral so hand brake and propshafts are not spinning this eliminates props,handbrake and diffs. What I did notice and tested is that while at say 40mph when I select neutral in gearbox and transfer box all goes quiet. This eliminates hand brake and props or axles noise. I think it might be a transfer box what I will do when I get a chance is pull input gear out the transfer case and run it thru gears to see if noise is still there if noise goes away it can only be transfer box. I did buy a second hand lt77 with 300tdi transfer case 1.2 ratio supposedly in good condition so see how it goes when I put that in.

I wish it was that simple ☹️. Hand brake drum was first thing I checked. I also put transfer box in neutral and went up and down the box it was still noisy.

Ok thanks for that. One more he wants around 500 for both so I presume buy it, separate the transfer box and sell it on just to make some money back? Or just refurb my old one. I don't mind spending money on it to get it right.

Thanks Mike for your input. I was hoping it be one or the other . So looks like I have 3 options. Bearing in mind the Landy is 1988 2.5 petrol. 1. Ideally I should rebuild original gearbox and transfer box providing I can find someone reliable to do it locally [I hate gearboxes or should I say smell of gear oil so rather don't want to do it myself if I can help it] 2. Get remanufactured gearbox and transfer box, probably most expensive option. 3. Second hand. [cheapest] Now I have found locally second hand lt77 short box with 300tdi disco transfer box 122 ratio bolted together , seller says both are good units the only thing I'm worried about is that the gears be too tall for the engine. Has anyone got an idea if that will be the case? Which option would be best to go for??

Hi. Can I pick your brains please? I just bought a Lr90 2.5 petrol with noisy gearbox or transfer case or both and can not decide where the noise is coming from [think its the gearbox main shaft.] The noise is metallic similar to drum or disc rubbing on back plate. It comes on at around 20mph and noise increases with speed. In 2,3,4,5 gear coasting or dipping the clutch makes no difference still there but if I put transfer box in neutral while rolling and then press the clutch the noise goes away. Stationary with transfer box in neutral and going up in gears noise is present. Thanks in advance for any input.

That is a great tip of just buying the gasket to make sure it fits. The STC636 pump number is cross reference from original HRC1167 at least that's what I managed to find on forums. Original pump is a little crusty and bearing is rumbling plus one of outlets needs to be blanked off so I think I will go with new pump as new pump has outlet already blanked off with a blanking plug saves me looking for one [ pump is under £50 from Turners ] The way I look at it I got lucky and paid very little for this engine so don't mind buying new parts for it where necessary.

Ouch 5mm that's a lot must have been starved of oil. I'm more lucky had a look at mine and no damage to cam lobes. But I will have to buy new water pump as the one I have will not fit this engine. As 2 or 3 bolt holes are out by about half a hole. So looks like 11H 2.25 out of 90 has slightly different timing chain cover to s3 5mb and I believe correct water pump for this engine is STC636. Odd why LR did that.

Not had a chance as of yet. Hopefully I'll get some time on it this weekend.

Yes it has stood for a while but out of vehicle. But evidence of some water left in it. All core plugs look like new from outside no way of telling what they look like on inside without removing them.[maybe a time to buy myself a bore scope as a Christmas prezzie] On another hand water pump had quiet a bit of rust on impeller [so new pump is being fitted] I also flushed some loose rust from engine so as core plug set is less than £30.00 from Turners I might just get them fitted. An update to earlier posts: I've removed rest of big ends and main bearings they all looked as good as new bar one half of big end bearing had a scratch down middle of it that could be felt with a nail so I have ordered a new set of big ends. [looks like maybe some damage from standing] Crankshaft undamaged but I will give it a quick polish where big-end /conrod bearing had a scratch plus blowout oil galleries with brake cleaner and air just in case there is some dirt that caused the small damage to big end. I have also removed pistons and rings , all good and with a little clean can go back in. Timing chain appears in good condition. I haven't had a chance to measure it yet but looking at it tensioner is on a second click so right at start of adjustment. Removed valves as couple were sticking: all were a little coked up so quick decoke, lap valves, fit new valve stem seals and head is done. No evidence of hardened valve seats fitted so still a leaded head.

When I remove the valves I will look if hardened valve seats have been fitted. If not I will not worry about it too much as I do very low mileage, plus I don't mind chucking some lead additive. My existing engine in a shorty is a 5mb so worst case I could replace seats in that head and fit it at later stage.

Ok I will finish striping it down then clean and inspect for damage/wear and if all well put it all together re-using original parts and replacing what's necessary. Yet again thank you all for pointing me in right direction. Greg

Yes there is existing honing marks still showing. You are right that rings are already matched to cylinders so nothing gained if I keep existing rings. I just never registered that.

If to go by last couple of years than 300-400 miles a year. In all fairness it will get used a little more once new engine goes in.

Thank you all for replies. @deep Good call on the hardened valve seats. I have done few engine rebuilds so measurements are no problem but I haven't bothered as there is no visible wear plus I've only just started stripping it As I'm pulling the pistons to check if rings are free and clean or replace them I thought may as well do a quick pass with a honing tool. Apparently AE is no Longer available. I haven't looked anywhere else for replacement rings but will most probably remove clean and check if the rings are not seized in the pistons from standing, measure and refit. Rezone I have asked above questions is that as much as I will replace some parts like seals I was not sure if to replace parts that are good with 30k on them with replacement parts that might be of lesser quality than original.

I have recently bought an 5mb engine 2.25 11H petrol out of early lr 110 which supposedly only have done 31k but it stood a while. Because of that I have decided to pull the engine to bits. On inspection it appears to be a low mileage engine. No wear to cylinder bores and honing marks are still visible. Big end and main bearings look good too. I will have to do the head as couple of valves are sticking plus as I'm at it will replace valve guide seals in fact all oil seals will get replaced. Now to the question: As the engine is all apart anyway do I put in new main and big end bearings? [I'm tempted to do it as all is stripped anyway] Do I Put new Piston Rings? [except I can not buy just the rings from Turners as they only sell piston and rings in one] I will hone bores anyway so pistons will come out. Timing chain replace as it's cheap? I have not removed the timing cover as yet so not sure on condition. Also do I keep inlet and exhaust manifolds with twin choke weber carburettor or use series manifolds and carburettor which is brand new weber Below are a couple of pics of main and big end bearings those are the only once I have removed so far.