Spongie

Have you tried on AULRO more likely to have uptake locally to be fair

Think I'm having a bit of a rethink on some bits and bobs. Thanks for help

Wiring up a 200tdi 101 from scratch. I'm using fancy modular fuse and relay holders from autosparks. I've got 4 modules in the box and two boxes Module 1 in box 1 is 6 mega fuses 1 ignition Main (to module 2 via relay) 2 non ignition (to module 3) 3 ignition fed accesories (to box 2) Module 2 in box 1 is for main ign feeds It houses a 70a power relay to protect the ign switch and 10 Mini blade fuses. 1 starter relay 2 head dip relay 3 head main relay 4 hazard ign 5 indicators ign 6 instrument feed 7 fog lamps relay 8 wipers 9 glow plug timer relay 10 Heater Module 3 is for non Ign circuits 10 mini fuses and 2 micro relays. 1 brake lamps 2 horn 3 side lamps 4 12v socket 5 hazards + 6 indicators + 7 fan ... The 4th module in box 1 then contains the two flasher relays Box 2 module 3 & 4 contains 10 mini blade fuses, 1 power relay and 6 mega fuses, these are for accesories fed from the second battery (I.e winch and camper Bits) Box 2 module 2 contains 6 micro relays which relate back to feeds from box 1 Box 2 Module 1 contains 20 mini blade fuses fed from mega fuse in box 1 mod 1 this is for accessories not required with ignition off, 1 spot lamps 2 beacons 3 heated screen 4 heated seats 5 radio + ... Thus leading me to my question. What do you guys think of the thought process here? Am I barking up the wrong tree with what I'm fusing and where I'm fusing them? Giving me head aches trying to plan it all out.

Have to agree going like for like casting isn't really a great idea due to the inefficiency of steel for thermal conductivity you would be wanting larger and more cooling ports. Currently the tdi uses the aluminum head as a secondary radiator. All the hot alloy dissipates heat into the air faster than the cast iron block. Conversely it also dissipates more into the coolant too.

I'm in Lowestoft. But I am travelling to Loughborough via thetford on Sunday

Suffolk ya?

You may be ok now local offices are closing, but I've just tdi and lt77 converted a 101 and technically you should loose the points on the chassis too as you need to weld in New engine mounts (not gearbox mounts though) Thankfully mine is already registered though so no hoops to jump through and red tape registering.

Just done the same on my 101. Disc all round

101 Club are currently getting a group purchase together to buy a batch of the screens for 101, see the 101 forward control facebook page or the club forum if you are interested in 101 screens folks.

Seriously nige. Try asking the supplier, they may want a specific treatment that others do not

something like this: clicky always look cheap and nasty to me so not sure I want to risk it

Ok don't panic the title is the simple part I've sussed that bit. I'm using relays either side of the vehicle for dip and main beam. And I'm tempted to use the relay bases that have a built in fuse. If I used these for the main fused supply what sort of amps are required here, And whilst the supply from the switch is protected by another fuse in the main fusebox I'm guessing this one needs to be a lower amperage? Cheers, just curious as to whether I want to trust the combined relay/fuse holder or have a decent maxi blade fuse closer to the battery.

If you want a real challenge do it for the 101, plenty of people would like that conversion as the Zeus conversion still expects you to take a grinder to the swivel housing and caliper

In initial post you did not make it clear you intended to produce this as a retailable product. Either way good luck

Don't want to knock you. There are easier ways though: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69587&page=8#entry751803

Keep an eye on it and block it in as much as possible for a few weeks

I've worn out hand brake pads! Well my wife did... Drove the series a fair bit with handbrake on, thankfully rear crank seal weeped

Yep.

Use the removable crossmember from a cooler with it

There is a chap on eBay who seems to do good tanks. I'm possibly using this chap for my 101 tanks https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=135268766543890

have you tried RS or contacting carling? Carling Technologies LtdDevon, England Int + 44 1392-364422 FAX: Int+ 44 1392-364477 Email: ltd.sales@carlingtech.com

If Mikey doesnt want to, I know another poor student who needs a hand brake for a 101" who would jump at the chance!

Good call, will have to see if they are any cheaper than mud.

two of my friends run Vnt (one of them a 2.5 v6 turbo and the other actually a VW 2.7 Van turbo) on 200tdi's both of which are well and truely tuned, but they both are using kinguawa boost actuators with much success, will try and get more details though as I'm doing the same as both of them!

Only realised last weekend my 101 hasn't been SORN since 2007, and I bought it in 2011 I await the fine... Doh