Landowner

Not sure whether to leave the rubber engine cover off and save it for my project as I only have the one, any preferences anyone ?

Correct, I bought it off ebay and they took everything off the pump so it was useless to me, they sent me another one which is still running as far as I know. So I have a good pump which is worth nowt because it need calibrating/retiming

No galv chassis and you are right about values, my friend was going to give me cash as well. My 90 is going to be sold in March as that was always the plan, didn't plan on rebuilding axles and swapping the engine though it was just a vehicle to use whilst I finished my project 90. Worth the work though, its a brilliant drive

+1 for above, I've even spun the bolt out using the starter

Its the one that will only do 50 or 60 now with 3.45 diffs fitted, it would start off in third without slipping the clutch

Got it, forgot the pulley was removable I have a pump with the bit that the pulley is bolted too, , missing. I cant use it as retiming it is way beyond my capabilities

If used on a 200 tdi would the pulley be separated from the pump??

The series is on the same profile tyres as my Defender I stood one of my 235/85/16 Wolfs next to the 90 tyre, the Wolf is almost 5inches taller that's two and a half inches more ground clearance and a lot higher geared. Any one know the official top speed of a standard diesel series 3 ?

I'll use that one, never even thought of doing it

That's interesting and it means that ours is lower geared because with the engine on the governor it would just pull 50 mph so 10 mph slower (checked by sat nav)

Its part put back together and the chassis is sound with a patch needed on an outrigger only. The floor is wet because I had just jet washed it, its a good solid vehicle. Would have been nicer with the petrol engine left in but he wanted a diesel so in went my old 2.5n/a which has good compressions, doesn't smoke at all and starts on the button even when covered in frost. I am very tempted but its just more work as I would have it back as it should be, maybe with a canvas top. Best leave it for now as I have enough projects at the moment to more than see me out

Aha, but are the gearboxes the same? maybe they are and all diesel series will only cruise at 40 mph and start off in third if asked to and be in top at 20 mph. The series 3 is now just about acceptable but still too low geared with the Defender diffs (3.45 ?) its not that we are used to modern vehicles, it's because the engine is revving too much at 45mph. The engine revs that we usually change up at (say 2500 to 3000) see very rapid gearchanges and into top at running speed, cruising at say 2500/3000 is usual but the series would only be doing about 30 mph which is not normal even for a series so our gearing somehow is lower than normal, The skinny wheels have been changed for defender ones but the profile is about the same, stood side by side they are about the same height. Must be something different with the cogs but don't know what. Its ok for now as 45 isn't too slow for local but its not nice revving so much over the 'happy' section of the revs if you know what I mean, it sounds like you should be doing 60 or seventy with the engine nearly on the governors

You are probably right, really enjoying cruising and listening to the radio and better mpg, selling in March after all the work is done as that was the plan and by then my project 90 will be ready. Some one is going to get a cracking 90

Doesn't really matter what diesel engine it is, they all rev about the same. Imagine the Landy up on axle stands in top gear with a brick on the throttle, our series would have shown 50 mph only that's about 12mph per 1000 revs I would imagine a series 3 should be geared about 15 to 18 mph per 1000 to achieve 70 mph, maybe even 20 mph Not saying any one is wrong, just that this series is very low geared, or was, its now about 15mph per 1000rpm with the defender diffs

Did it fit in the 110 tank then? Sounds like a plan for a friend of mine

I usually get them free by whacking the taper part that holds the ball joint with a lump hammer, it pops off after one or two clouts, Used to do it with Mini top and bottom ball joints, hit them with two hammers simultaneously on both sides and the joint popped out

The 11J 2.5 n/a diesel which came out of my defender 90 is in excellent condition and will rev its nuts off, it would pull 55mph in 4th if you really wanted to and go again in 5th, I could overtake trucks on the motorway on the flat and leave them for dead downhill. That engine transplanted into the series 3 would still rev its nuts off but the series top speed was not even 50. In fact when my mate tried to get 50 and 50 plus, the oil filler cap blew off it was revving that hard. This suggests to me that the series is too low geared, it would start off in second and then straight into fourth at about 20 mph, surely the diesel series three was not that low geared, I had a 1966 diesel 88 in the late sixties and it would fly along at 60 plus if given the boot. Now that we have put the defender diffs in it goes a lot better, it's quick off the mark and will cruise at 50 on a light throttle without revving the rockers off it, in fact it is just a little lower geared now than it was in the defender so our little series must have lower gearing than normal. It will pull very well in top from 30mph so cant be too high geared. I would imagine the top speed to be about 65 flat out now so not overgeared in my opinion. That same engine in my defender with 110 wolf wheels and 235/80 profile tyres was too high geared above 30 mph and I had to swap back to smaller standard wheels and tyres for a more relaxed drive so I am aware of diesels and gearing, I have driven diesels for over 50 years in cars vans and hgvs so am familiar with speed/power/gearing and its affects. It does have small wheels from a 1960 series but not that small to make it too low geared, it wasn't to low with the petrol engine in it but that would have revved higher.

Shall I have it and how much? Just been offered it in exchange for my 90 but don't know what it's worth, was thinking between 800 and 1500 but not entirely sure

I think something is wrong here, getting crossed wires regarding what the gearing is and what it should be. The series 3 had a 2.25 petrol engine fitted. I was told that both petrol and diesel models used a similar gearbox. With petrol engine fitted the landy was good for probably 70 mph, she would cruise easily 50mph When the diesel was fitted she would just about crack 50 but that was flat out, nothing wrong with the engine because it would cruise at 55/60 and over 70 downhill in my Defender before it was taken out. So I'm thinking that the petrol engine Series 3 had lower gearing than the diesel version, either via transfer box or diffs this would allow for the difference in max engine revs between the two. So we have had to gear it up by fitting 3.54 diffs and now she will cruise at 45/50 and crack over 60 flat out, acceleration is very good as well. Therefore the advice that it would be overgeared and not pull etc with 3.45 diffs is rubbish

Would need a good blast to clear soot out which defeats the object of having one, or replace it at regular intervals I would say, no way to clean it out other than remove it and flush it through with a hose.

The Disco 1 'Cat' is a soot filter and not a cat so is a DPF I suppose. Just have to bash a rod through it and make it straight through, its not going to affect emissions on test anyway

Nice one Halfords don't usually ask for a receipt as its their name on the tools etc...result

I have some discovery plastic caps for the wheelnuts at mot time, works a treat

My Wolfs have a deeper dish than standard rims but I wont part with them to put on the series, Nearly bought a set of madulars for 100 quid with tyres but couldn't quite afford them

We decided to put the old skinny 6.00 tyres back on when off roading, lower gearing and I think they will be better than a lot of these monster tyres that most people use.