Jump to content

Mark Adams

Settled In
  • Posts

    113
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mark Adams

  1. Hi, Have you done the basic checks of testing the cylinder compression, checking that you have spark ignition on all cylinders and that you have fuel pressure? This may narrow it down a little. Mark.
  2. I have been away so have not managed to do any work on the freelander, got back any started to get it back together, I have not replaced the head and cams but when reattaching the belts I had the marks perfectly in-line and then found that the belt will not go on unless the exhaust sprocket is about 1mm higher than the inlet mark. I cant adjust it as then the belt will not line up with the teeth. It is only a fraction out but I am not happy with it, does not any know what is causing this? Mark.
  3. Hi CJ1, Out of interest where are you based in East Sussex? I am originally from Brighton but have family/friends all over Sussex. I would have loved to have helped you out with the welding on the Disco but since moving to Wales I am a bit far away now. I would certainly say the Disco is one on the easier cars I have welded up and also the most enjoyable to see the end result. Good luck with it. Mark.
  4. Hi, Before I reassemble the head to complete the Gasket replacement, I was just wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to test the tappets as I do not want to put duff tappets back in. Also can these tappets be cleaned/serviced like some others I have worked on? Thank you
  5. Hi, Can anyone recommend a good make for an MLS head gasket kit, I would ideally like the price to be as cheap as possible (who doesn't) but do not want one that lasts 10 minutes. Mark.
  6. As far as I am told the car has never overheated, it certainly was not overheating at point of failure. Mark.
  7. Well after waiting a while for my friend to find the money I decided I need it out of the way so I have paid for the work myself, I have just had it pressure tested (hot and cold) and had it skimmed. The pressure testing showed no leaks so the head was not the problem. They are also going to re-seat the valves as they were leaking and even after lapping some of them still leaked. Mark
  8. I just found the link to show you what the current gasket looks like, I don't know where this particular one was purchased from. Mark.
  9. The existing gasket is not the standard factory fitted one, it is a solid metal gasket with orange silicon around all the holes, see picture in this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-MGF-FREELANDER-16V-K-HEAD-GASKET-SET-BOLTS-/110126814073?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19a411d379 I have not seen the MLS gasket so not sure if it is any thicker. Yes, I was going to use the MLS gasket. Mark.
  10. The trouble with these measurements is that I have no idea what was removed on any previous re-facing operations, I also have nothing that is capable of measuring the thickness of the whole head to that accuracy. Mark.
  11. Hi Davey, I have not managed to get the head tested yet, the company is a little drive away so I am hoping to tie it in with something else. The HG has been changed before and from a little investigation I found that the current HG is the type recommended for the Lotus Elise and not the Freelander. I know that they use the same K series engine but I have no experience with these gaskets (are they any good)? I was going to change it for the new style Multi-layer gasket but are these Lotus type better or worse? On your description of why it is jumping a cylinder when it leaks, you mention that it is due to compression in the next cylinder, my only comment about this is that all the spark plugs were removed so there would not be any compression on any other cylinders. As this was found on a leak down test, the pistons were not moving so no compression is being formed. Have I misunderstood your comment? Unfortunately I am not able to get another head without buying one and even then I would need to get it tested and skimmed so it would not be of much benefit? I do not like doing jobs on the cheap as it never works out. I think I am going to get it skimmed and tested and sort out the cost later. My next concern is regarding the valve stand down, if it is skimmed then I may also need to get the valve seats reground (quite a large expense). Does anyone know what the stand down is on these heads? I am only concerned about this as I guess it was skimmed the last time the HG was replaced. Mark.
  12. Both head and block are straight as a die. Bores are smooth as a baby bum. All pistons look good with no holes. No signs of burning between cylinders on either block or head, gasket looks in good condition with no signs of leakage. Tested the valves with some petrol and most are leaking slightly (so will need lapping), this does not go with the leakage between cylinders though, Not removed valves yet, so not sure about guides. The chap that owns the car is not keen of spending much on the repair as he will sell it when back on the road, As he is a friend I am doing the labour for free so just need to keep external costs and part costs low, but still giving a quality repair (if possible). Thank you for the suggestions. Mark.
  13. Jonners, You must have read my mind, I have just finished removing the head, the old gasket is a single metal plate with what looks like orange silicon in critical places (this may not be a good description). It does not have the MLS gasket fitted but does have locating metal dowels. I can't see any problems with the gasket, I am going to check with the owner if he wants to pay for the head to be skimmed and pressure tested. Even though the head has not be over heated (in his knowledge) I still think that getting it skimmed would be a good idea?? Difficult to know where to go next as I do not just want to put it back together without knowing what the problem was if it pressure tests OK. Mark.
  14. Sorry clicked the wrong button and can't delete post.
  15. Slight change to my previous post, the cylinders leaks are as follows. 1 leaks to 2 2 leaks to 4 3 leaks to 1 4 leaks to 3 All leak to inlet manifold if cylinder blocked off.
  16. Just got the car back to my workshop and just quickly did a leakdown test. More odd results, tried cylinder 3 and had leakage through cylinder 1, when cylinder 1 is blocked off it then leaks through inlet manifold. Similar results for the rest of the cylinders. leaks though next but one cylinder. Does not sound like head gasket but more like crack in head?? Mark.
  17. I have taken the cam shaft cover off and checked that the cams are turning and all looks fine OK.
  18. I am going to try and get it back to my workshop and do a leak down test to try and narrow down the problem. The owner does not want to spend much more money on the car as it has cost him enough already, I think he would rather scrap it and cut his losses, I would rather narrow down the possibilities before doing any major work. Mark.
  19. Just went over to make sure it is not the belt and it is perfectly aligned. Mark.
  20. First thing I check was the cam belt and it looks fine and tensioned correctly. I did not check the timing marks but unlikely to jump a tooth when it is tensioned. I am told it was running fine yesterday. Mark.
  21. Hi, Just visited a friend with a freelander 1.8, he started the car and after 2 seconds it immediatly stopped and would not restart. When he turned it over it sounds like no compression (same noise you get when plugs are removed). I removed all the plugs and did a compression test these are the findings. Cy 1: 8 bar (nearest to timing belt) Cy 2: 6 bar Cy 3: 8 bar Cy 4: 14 bar Odd readings, I tested it about 3 months ago when I serviced it for him (just out of interest) and my notes say that it tested at between 9.5 bar to 10.5 bar across the cylinders. Not looked into it any further at the moment as I will need to tow it back to my workshop. Any ideas why this has suddenly happened? Mark.
  22. Thank you for the reply, The other interesting thing I found which may or may not be related is: When trying to get a steady fast idle speed it is impossible, you can hold the TPS steedy but the revs keep increasing, I have check the TPS on the scope and it is fine and the reading for TPS do not change in live data. Also when you WOT and let it idle again, instead of going back to idle speed straight away it sits at about 1500 for about 30 seconds then drops back down. Ever come across these? Mark.
  23. It would be interesting to see how another car compares. Look forward to hear the results. Mark.
  24. Am I right in thinking the pulse width should be approx 3.5 ms when warm? Mark.
  25. Hi, Tried what you suggested by wiring up a spare temp sensor and heating it slowly with a blow lamp. Unfortunatly no change. I took a video of injector 1 (as this is the only one you can get to unless you use the connector) which is here: The pulse width at idle is 3.945 ms. little bit high I thought.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy