Mark Adams

the oil level is on the max mark, it happened when stopping at a junction, it was fine until then.

If it is a mechanical problem then I guess the big end bearing shells are the most likely cause, does anyone know what these are like to change? I have a fully kitted workshop and pit and would regard myself as above average DIY mechanics but never changed these before.

Driving home in the Disco I noticed that when I stopped at a roundabout, I saw the oil pressure light came on, flickered at first, I quickly turned off the engine and then started it. The light went off and did not came back on until I parked up at home, when it started flickering again. Do you think this is just faulty wiring/sensor or a genuine oil pressure problem? Seems strange that it goes off when the engine is turned off and on again.

Depending if you have a great need/desire for 4x4, you could just remove the prop and save some fuel.

As it is only effecting one cylinder it is more likely to be the injector. Place the end of a large screw driver on the injector and the other end on your ear and listen for the clicking of the injector operating, try it on a good injector first so you know what it should sound like. you could also try a cylinder balance test, try removing the power from cylinder 3 injector and see if the rpm changes. Mark.

I have just purchased 10 Ltrs of 15-40 Mineral oil for my 1996 300 TDI discovery. I had not relised that it was mineral oil until I got home, It says it is fine for diesels so will it be OK for the Disco? It has done about 180,000 miles so fairly high milage. Mark.

Have you sold the Disco yet?

Hi, Do you know what the garage tested? It seems to me that they just changed all the ignition components without actually testing anything hoping that this would solve the problem (this does annoy me). I would get the ICV and CTS checked and also check that you have good fuel pressure and good flow. Does it run fine when it is cold? Does it consistantly fail at a given point (when it reaches a certain temperature) or is it more intermittant? Where are you based?

Well I did cut the cables in the end and after ordering three different kits (as the first two did not fit) I have managed to reassemble the window now. This has unfortunatly given me another unexpected problem. When power was re-instated the window come down (with no beep) and I then used the interior button to move it to the top most position to calibrate the CCU. This all worked well and the window goes up and down on the switch with no problem. I then tried to open the rear door and found that the glass did not move down, the door unlocked but the glass was keeping it closed. I managed to get it open by moving it down slightly by hand and then closed the door which did activate the switch and the window went back up with no problem. I tried again and it seem that the motor activates for a second to try and lower the window, but it hardly moves. It worked perfectly before I changed the cable. Mark.

Hi, The pressure regulator on the Freelander 1 is inside the fuel pump so does not have a vacuum pipe connected. The fuel rail does have an accumulator (damper) connected to it which has a vacuum pipe but this does not regulate the fuel in any way just smooths it out. Hope this helps Mark.

Hi, The pressure regulator on the Freelander 1 is inside the fuel pump so does not have a vacuum pipe connected. The fuel rail does have an accumulator (damper) connected to it which has a vacuum pipe but this does not regulate the fuel in any way just smooths it out. Hope this helps Mark.

Hi, I decided to purchase a new fuel pump which I have now installed. I connected the gauge back up to test that all was well and these are the finding. When primed the pressure quickly rises to 3.5 bar but then drops to 3 bar and holds. When the car is running it runs at 3.5 bar but when you open the thottle the needle shakes a little and then settles again when the engine is shut off the pressure drops to 3.0 bar and holds. I would have expected it to hold at 3.5 bar not 3.0 and was not expecting the judder when opening the thottle. Any ideas? Could the judder be caused by the Damper?

Thank you for the reply. Unfortunatly Gosport is a bit far from Wales to collect the pump. I do not need the tank but would be interested to know how much you would want for the pump if you can post it. I did check the clear red/orange pipe which goes to the fuel outlet and it visually looks OK but not pressure tested it. My e-mail address is: info@penrhiwfarm.co.uk if you prefer. Mark

After finding my freelander 1998 1.8 running a bit rough and missing, I decided to perform a fuel pressure check and found that the priming pressure was only 1.5bar which immediatly drops back to 0. When started the pressure only rises to 2.5bar (not 3.5) when idling and yet again drops to 0 when the engine is stopped. I have taken out the fuel pump and replaced the fuel filter as I initially suspected the O ring, but it was fine. Put it all back together and it is still the same. I have tried running the engine and then clamping the fuel line on the engine side of the gauge to see if the pressure leaks through the fuel rail/injectors or inside the pump and it still drops which indicates the problem being inside the pump. I now suspect that the pressure regulator is at fault but would like to try and test it before just replacing it. Does anyone know a good way of testing these? I am also wondering if I should just buy another pump rather than just the regulator. Thank you

I did think of trying that but all the cables are encased in the sleaves and the new kit only contains the inner cables and reuses the outer sleave.

Hi, Sorry to Hi-Jack your thread but I have a similar problem so though it would be better to add it rather than starting a new thread. The window was working fine until recently when I found that one of the cables had snapped, I have purchased a similar kit to you, so i am not looking forward to fitting it given your problems. I have a slightly different problem initially as due to the window failing in the closed position I do not seem to be able to remove the glass from the holder so I can remove the regulator. I can't get access to the bolts that hold it in place unless the windows in wound down (which I can't do). Any suggestion as to how I can manually wind the window down or remove the regulator in another way. Thanks.

I will give it a go today but always intertested to know the cause behind a problem. Mark.

Ally V8, Did you find out the actual cause of the problem? Was it the IACV at fault?

Hi FridgeFreezer, I have connected my Scope to the Lambda sensor signal and it producing a wave form of the correct frequency and amplitude and also responds quickly to WOT. Using my SP ACR4 to read live data I can see that both the Air temp sensor and CTS and both reading the correct temp (confirmed using a laser thermometer). Thank you Mark.

I changed the TPS (which is what I suspected was the problem) but unfortunatly the problem still exists. Any other ideas? Mark.

I have checked that the cams line up and they are perfectly in-line. Mark.

Thank you for the reply, I have also tried that by plugging in my SP ACR4 to check the RPM and tried both spraying carb cleaner and using propane, the RPM stayed static. I tried around inlet manifold and all pipes. I have also performed a vacuum pressure test which gave the correct static reading, indicating no leaks. Mark.

Hi, Freelander 1.8 1998 I just managed to scrape a pass on the MOT due to emissions, despite changing the Cat and O2 sensor the problem is caused by the tester not being able to keep the revs at a constant speed to perform a proper test. When your foot is held at a constant position on the petal it just keeps increasing the revs and will not stay at a constant speed. I have checked the TPS with my osciloscope and it seems fine but I cant see what else would be causing it. It idles fine it only occurs when the car is reved when stationary. Mark.

Hi, I am just installing a new Cat to my 1.8 1998 freelander after failing MOT emissions. I have purchased a new Klarius CAT from the local factor (who recommended this make). I have installed it in the only way that it can go due to the shape of the flange, but the arrow on the CAT points to the manifold and according to the install sheet it should point to the end of the exhaust?? I need to get the car back in for the MOT on Monday and Klarius Tech support are now closed. Has anyone else had this problem? Mark.

I have a Fluke oscilloscope which I used to test the sensor while running the car, it switches from .2 to .9 but it is slow at 2.3 second per cycle. Should the inside of the manifold be completly open as I could just about feel a piece of metel sticking out just after the threads. Mark.