ChrisJones117

After receiving a renewal quote for my '86' 200Tdi 110 of £220.00 for fully comp cover, £200 excess, max 10K per year, which I have happily paid, I got to thinking about my next purchase. Thinking about acquiring one of the last 300Tdi's around a '97' plate Defender 130 Double Cab, with mild pimping of interior & exterior willing to pay ballpark about £ 15K as several companies have recently had similar on their books. Asked for quote for said vehicle:......................................... Quote came in at.... Dear Mr Jones, Thank you for submitting your quotation form. We have calculated a premium based on the information which you have provided. Premium: £1261.26 -------------------- This includes Insurance Premium Tax at the current rate, Admin Fee and Legal Benefits Fee* (* includes Insurance Premium Tax). Vehicle: LAND ROVER 130 DEFENDER CREWCAB30 2495 And this was using my current details they have on file. Damn that extra 17 inches sure makes it an expensive option roughly £61 pound an inch, that more than the metals worth to fabricate those extra inches. Fellow forumeers if you currently possess a delectable 130 of similar age etc, if you be so kind. Could you indicate what you are currently paying rough figures only, am not that nosy that I want exact numbers. Cheers

Hi, I am looking to build up a 130 with an enclosed rear tub behind the double cab for transporting Mountain bikes in a slightly more secure way than chaining them to the roof rack or spare wheel carrier but as currently they are proving to be rarer than the pooh of a child's wooden horse. I need to be sure that the depth of the tub is long enough to accommodate a full size Mountain bike in its upright position ideally with wheels on. After trawling through various sites and downloads lots of pictures but no dimensions, has anyone got a 130 that they could measure the total depth of the rear tub from bulkhead to door. So I can continue with my quest or retreat into a darkened room and re-evaluate my options with regard to transporting several adults and bikes to various off road locations Many thanks

Recently had my original Transfer Box replaced on my D Plate 110 ( with 200Tdi from a Disco ) after the internals decided to eat themselves and lie around in the bottom of the casing. After my Spanner man has replaced box he asked if it made any noise when changing gear, to which the reply was barely and only if I crashed the gears by mistake. Now I get a clunking noise going up the gears or when I back off the power. Going up the gears can be reduced by holding clutch slightly longer than I used to and applying power slightly earlier, but this feels very strange to me as for the last 6 years of ownership its been clutch in and out, power back on away we go. Could the take up from transfer box to prop shafts be the cause of the noise and can this be adjusted out or is it the start of something more serious thats been waiting to jump up and bite me in the wallet???

I have just had a re-con 1:4 ratio transfer box fitted to my 110 ( Disco 200TDI engine fitted ) and now have a loud clunking noise every time I change gear as I lift off the clutch, its is becoming more than a little bit irritating as even with a knackered transfer box it was not there before. Could this be the indication of something more serious that has been lurking under the 110 ready to pounce at the opportune moment, or has the garage done something wrong. Any ideas / suggections greatly appreciated, as I will be speaking to Garage guy next week anyway

Excellent day out at Newbury today, gorgeous weather, lots of stalls, managed for the first time in several years get everything I needed plus as ever many things I really don't but one day they may come in handy. Bit more spread out this time, stalls not so packed in together. Arrived at 09:45, walked in within 5 mins, wandered for hours rummaging from stall to stall. If they continue like this, deffo keep going, last few have been a struggle as numbers have been falling, good mix this time - Well done.

Had my renewal come through today from Lancaster quoted £188 fully comp, £ 200 excess. Not unreasonable I thought as shopping around has yet to find anything much cheaper. So rang them up did the deal over the phone, paid in full for years cover as paying in installments offends me somewhat giving them extra money for little or no work on their side. After concluding transaction and going through the usual pleasntries and platitudes of " Can I do anything else for you etc. etc. " I asked the young lady to confirm my 'No Claims' status as by my reckoning owning said vehicle since 2006 should land me in the manor of 5 years NCB. Shock & Horror, only 3 years NCB earned, but how can this be I have made no claims or been claimed against since I have owned my Defender, Oh don't worry about it came the reply, some of the Insurers we have placed you with over the last 5 years do not give NCB at all they only provide cover, apparently Equity Red Star & Allianz this is regular business practice and it is your responsibility as the enquirer to ask the question Lancaster are not obligated to inform you. When saying if that is the case I wish to cancel the policy I just took out with you, sure thats no problem you just have to send us the request in writing and pay a further £75 fee for admin charges. Peeps please make sure you always ask all the questions you can, do not get caught out like I have been, at the moment I fell like I need to have a shower as feeling unclean and violated after dealing with this company, but as I am left with no choice, I will play their game for one more year adn then seek better cover with tangible rewards etc.

Some work today on Light problem, seems to be the new switch is cauing the problem, as after spending many hours not finding anything wrong, found old switch in bottom of toolbox, removed broken rocker assy just leaving contacts in remains of switch body, plugged it in and hazards started flashing, pushed contact over to turn off hazards, when done tried indicators and success all worked as they should. Disconnected old switch swapped with new, problem came back. New switch was from Allmakes I think. now going to try and source OEM part and fit that into dash. Fingers and everything else crossed

Help please if possible, the other week my hazard switch exploded into lots of small pieces when pressed, so replaced switch unit and everything worked fine Hazards yes, Indicators RH & LH - Yes. Today driving home people flashing me when turning and much beeping of horns, after some initial confusion as to why as I clearly did not know these people, I noticed when turning the next corner that the Trailer hitch light was flashing when indicator stalk flicked down to turn left. So pulled over and ran through Left and Right operation getting out to check and all 6 lights coming on regardless of switch direction. And also only trailer hitch light illuminating in time with lights flashing, same also when hazard switch pressed. Stripped out all switches and checked coupler connection and fuses and relays, nothing obvious visible or evident, I am now thinking poss short on trailer socket. All opinions welcomed

Been there, done that today, have to be brutally honest, as I live in Swindon I would not have traveled further for it, lots of people saying the same thing today very quiet, and yesterday some of the traders said they never opened up due to lack of foot traffic. Can't help thinking it needed more or better advertising, tool stalls were much of the same as you see at most shows throughout the year regardless of whether it is auto related or not, unforyunately peddling the same stuff at the usual prices. Looking forward to October though as by then more bits will have fallen off and need replacing, still lets see if the 'Mark Woodward' team raise their game and advertise it properly

Good Evening all Today a new noise was discovered on my 110, earlier today the brakes felt a little soft when stopping outside my house so I checked fluid level - no cause for concern. On leaving the house a little while ago I pressed the brake pedal before starting engine only to be greeted by a honking noise emanating from the rear of the car, good resistance on pedal though. This was repeated several times with no reduction in noise suffice it to say one of the neighbours came out thinking one of the gesse from the lake at the bottom of the road had wandered by for some food. Currently I am thinking it may be the spring has let go on one of the shoes and the shoe is dragging on the inside of the drum. Not able to start taking it all apart for the next few days, but I will appreciate any other avenues to explore. Regards

Google ' Timesert ' these are awesome, we use them at work for both Engine repairs and for stripped suspension / engone mount repairs. Rock solid, never had one fail in five years of using

I use Rimmer Bros, they supply the Sh##part variant at about £23 for back box and it lasts on average 3-4 years, at that cost I can live with it, I have in the past snapped the tailpipe off when reversing off road and the metal is thick enough to take a mig weld when re-attaching end pipe section, if you do go for aftermarket option try and keep original olives and apply exhaust sealant in copious amounts to seal pipe union, the ones that come with fitting kits are too big.

Success. It can be done and was today 2 hrs start to finish - middle and rear sections changed out without jacking up or taking wheels off - still a bit of a fiddle especially when doing it on your own, judicious use of bungee cords and trolley jack to support various bits worked to a fashion. Only problem was using Britpart ****part bit and pieces, asked Rimmer when ordering who the maker of the bits was, strangely quite about Britpartmentioned Allmakes and others - main issue was the oversize olives and the under swaged pipe ends - old olives way too small, new olives way to big - lots of sealant ( exhaust variety ) looks to have saved the day

Help Back Box and pipe has more holes in it than a block of Leerdammer cheese, MOT due next week, so need to change pipe but no ramp or suitable stands. Can the rear section be swapped out with the wheels on the ground ?? Yes or No Cheers

I think its just Insurance companies in general now, looking for excuses not to insure Land Rovers per se. Up for renewal just now and struggling to find favourable quote for my 110 Van, bog standard apart from engine change three years ago from 19J TD to Disco 200 Tdi - Mr Flux and his cohorts will only insure it this year if I can provide documentation that the engine swap was carried at a Land Rover Dealer - Full receipts required for both Donor engine and work carried out by Main dealer - same story with many others. Is it 'Green' thinking by exclusion, by making it difficult to insure, are they hoping that we will scrap them and go off and buy new and shiny only.

I would be very careful, my 110 was original van sides insured with normal car insurance average cost £300 - £550 year in year out, changed the sides to ones from e-blag with windows in, tried for insurance with NFU shockingly quoted £1500 as it had been modified amd they wanted sign off from VSA as concern over crash protection if it was rolled. Got some advice from this forum and went with Lancaster average for last 2 years has been £130 per year - bargain, although they have sent me my renewal notice this year to say that they will no longer be insuring Defenders as the third party costs are too high and they are not willing to provide cover. So it back to 'GoCompare' for me as NFU are still quoting high for 'modification' that I have previously informed them about !!!

Mine have been like that for years top of the stud sits inside the wheel nut, passed several MOT's like that, been checked by the boys in blue as well after bneing accused of nicking someones wheels at an auto jumble meerly because my wheels looked the ones he had bought and then left ties to his tow hitch on his wifes car while he fetched his landy from the car park - the rozzers found no case to answer and raised no concerns with my wheels other than I was 5mm of the wear bars on the from tyres On checking up on stud length as long as the thread is engaged and torque achieved there should be no concerns if you had 'domed/acorn' style wheel nuts you would not see where the stud ended

Has anyone ever bought anything from these guys ????, they seem to shift a lot of MOD surplus currently a large number of tyres up for offer: Avon Rangemasters Goodyear G90's Michelin XZL's Some are new most are part worn, are there any horror stories associated ???, they have several sale options - direct sales, auction or tender. Opinions please as I'me looking to buy tyres from them starting price around £65 for Michelins

Running with viscous fan fitted, not locked up though spins freely at all times

Now I am concerned after reading all these posts. I have a 200TDi from a Disco in my 110 2.5TD with a TIM gauge and a new sender and my temp sits at just under 60c, 90% of the time unless its scorching hot - very rare these days in the UK I know - or unless I am motorway driving at 60mph as it won't go much faster without bleeding ears of internal organ damage from the vibration, then it creeps just above 60c but returns as soon as it slows to around 55mph. Do I still need to be concerned

Hi all Can anyone recommend a good insurance broker/company as I am up for renewal with a highly inflated new yearly premium. Currently insured with Highway Insurance through Lancaster Ins, for the last two years, renewal arrived today with a 40% increase in premium for another years cover, on closer scrutiny noticed that the Insurance company would be changing to Equity Red Star who apparently do not come out well on Google search. When challenged Lancaster replied that Highway would no longer be insuring Land Rover related vehicles as the financial risk from accidents was too great, cost to repair/replace both Insured vehicle and Third Party was unacceptable as a future viable business. So the other question is peeps, who out there has been bending things causing this ripple of fear through the Insurance community????

The air horns run off a big red button ( looks like Emergancy Stop button from machinery ) mounted on the dash and also from an old style toilet cistern chain with the switch part mounted in the old interior light mount ala US trucker style, guaranteed to scare most people

Horn died on my 110 the other day so using my back-up triple air horn at the moment, but it tends to scare the elderly and the very young, MOT is due end of the month so sent off for new horn from Craddocks. Arrived today but is different from original as it has two spade terminals on rear not one, only way it would work was to connect coupler to one terminal and then run loop from other terminal to mounting stud in centre of horn, if just the harness connected then no function. It seems to be working OK like this, all electrics are functioning, no fuses blowing. So, is it OK to continue and leave well alone or should I change it for a single terminal horn, still slightly worried as me and electrics are not friends at the best of times Advice please

I didn't get the knock on the door but had the new fuel gauge I had recently fitted lifted, the scrotes opened the door with no damage just some more scratches and then smashed the carp out of the instrument surround to get at the gauges breaking the temp and speedo whilst they were at it. If I was more cynical I would think it was either the Albanian postman or someone who works for the parts dealer I bought it from.

86 '110' wiuth 200 TDi conversion Smalll concern reared its head yesterday after changing the bulb for gauge illumination, bulb blown so replaced it with nice shiny blue led conversion kit, had to take out gauge from pod to remove green plastic lens in gauge unit and after refitting it worked OK but later in day noticed that it was reading full when I knew that I only had 1/2 tank of fuel at best. Any ideas/suggestions, new gauge required or could it be the sender, does anyone know how to check gauge with multimeter. Any help appreciated