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88inchthing

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Posts posted by 88inchthing

  1. Well the rangie is now back up and running.

    In case it’s of use to anyone in the future here’s how it went.

    Removed subframe, drive shafts, diff. Unbolted steering rack from subframe cable tied in place. Pulled back rack boots and removed steering arms from rack.

    with subframe out the way removed left engine mount. This is when I found out they have a block drain bung. It’s right next to an engine mount bolt which you can only feel lol. 
    Yep I unknowingly undid it and got showered in red coolant 🌨.

    on the right side I removed the starter motor and at this point I was able to remove both exhaust manifolds complete with turbos .

    I Fitted replacement cores from a British company called Mellet supplied by Bearmach.

    Total cost including gaskets and oil and filter was under £700

    • Like 4
  2. I have a 2008 l322 tdv8. I’ve now had it for 5 years and 50k (bought on 57k)
    Overall I’ve found it to be an excellent vehicle.

    The only major issue I’ve had was a turbo failure. My local lr specialist quoted £3775 for two brand new genuine turbos. 
     

    Not wanting to spend that I did the work myself and fitted replacement cores to both turbos total cost under £700. 
     

    I’d suggest taking one for a test drive. I think you’ll be impressed.

    Also quite good on fuel. I average 24mpg which only drops by about 2mpg towing a 2.5 ton trailer, due I believe to the huge amount of torque.

    Also an extremely good tow vehicle.

  3. 14 hours ago, Escape said:

    You can get a new core and reuse the housing (if no damage) to keep the cost down.

    What exactly failed? If the compressor wheel is damaged there is a very real risk of debris making it into the engine...

    Unfortunately it is the compressor wheel. The securing nut is missing as is part of the shat which appears to have sheared!

    Worse still I can’t find the missing bits. 
    I think my only option is to remove the inter cooler and take it to someone who can dismantle and check it for debris.

    Thank for suggesting cores, they are indeed a lot cheaper.694924AE-E5F9-4296-8C57-6EDD2073977E.thumb.jpeg.77d7e81eb135dea5060027683a13fce4.jpeg694924AE-E5F9-4296-8C57-6EDD2073977E.thumb.jpeg.77d7e81eb135dea5060027683a13fce4.jpeg51CAC928-00D7-4BC6-8382-109C8DF0B4E0.thumb.jpeg.b039c6e17d0d0dce563b5fed5b382c9b.jpeg

  4. Unfortunately the left turbo has failed on my L322.

     I have now dropped the sub frame etc and removed the down pipe. I can now spin the shaft by hand and it feels and sounds very rough.

    Was just looking for some advice/insight on the following 

    Turbo failure on these engines is quite common around 100k. Does anyone know exactly why?

    There are a number of horror stories about rapid failure of replacement turbos. Is it just folks not checking oil feed, poor cleanliness, bad quality parts ect? 
     

    What suppliers would you recommend. My local Specialist will only fit brand new Garret units. I can find cheap recons on eBay but a quick Google search shows very poor quality and reputation.

    Tia

    Bill

     

  5. Thanks very much for your replies so far.

    From what I can gather the Disco and Defender R380 Bell housings are identical as opposed to the lt77 where the Defender is shorter.

    what I’m trying to do is sort my crunchy synchros on the cheap. 
    I’m about 80percent that if I buy a cheap second hand Disco box and swap the selector and quadrant, the Disco box will fit.

     It would be great if someone who’s done so themselves could confirm this.

  6. Hi all.

    Just wondered if anyone has fitted a 300 24 spline front axle to a Defender 110 200 tdi? My 200 axle is shot (sloppy diff, discs, Pads, Calipers, and swivels).

    Seems like a good idea to source a mint as possible 24 spline unit and fit the whole thing. So far as I can tell should bolt straight up except for maybe the prop. Also i believe the 110 Defender brakes are bigger?

    Really would be nice to hear from someone who has done this before.

    Thanks in advance

    Bill

  7. Hi I have been asked by a good friend to ask on here if fuel leaking into the oil on his 2002 Disco TD5 is a known problem?

    He has got the idea from somewhere that it may be due to a cracked head?

    Should probably point out at this stage that we haven't even pulled the rocker cover of yet, he is just rather anxious to known if it's a common fault.

    Thanks in advance

    Bill

  8. I see a lot of you run rear mount rads and just wondered what you had done with the Engine oil cooler and Inter cooler?

    I'm building a budget hybrid trialer with a Disco 300tdi.

    My plan is to rear mount the Rad,blank of the oil cooler and pipe the Turbo straight to the inlet manifold. Seems the best option on the face of it as it's quickest and cheapest, and i can't see them doing me much good at low speed and coated in mud, also may reduce Turbo lag?

  9. Right.....

    Quick job to replace the lift pump without the spacer, and runs much better !

    But.... I've still got the judder/misfire/lumpy running at full revs, and I'm sure this is when its just before the limiter on the injection pump so I assume it must be something to do with the injection pump.

    I'm inclined to try another injection pump, but I can't face the hassle of removing the old one either !

    Any other ideas anyone...?

    Cheers

    Pete

    Hi

    I think it's well worth you both checking carefully that you have the correct banjo bolts fitted to the feed and return pipes on the Injection pump. I know it sounds a bit daft but I have known it cause exatly the fault described, as the hole in the return banjo bolt is smaller than the feed hence fuel starvation at mid to high revs.

    HTH

  10. If you replaced the pump, isnt it possible to advance or retard it by pivoting it on the bolts that connect it to the timing cover? I can never figure out the correct procedure for changing pumps as they should be locked when removed from the donor engine so they are int he correct position when attached to the recipient, but i'm sure there is some adjustment possible after fitting (a little like twiting the distributor on a petrol engine i suppose). May be completely wron on this, but someone who knows will be along to confirm or disregard what i say! :)

    Other than that, i wonder if an injector may be at fault and knocking? or if the the volume screw has been fiddled with on the pump - but this would result in smoke rather than knocking.

    Not sure but as far as I can remember 200tdi pump bolt holes are not sloted, however the pump timing could well still be wrong. If the previous owner of the pump has undone the centeral nut in error as opposed to the three 8mm bolts then the timing will have moved (no woodruf key they rely on the tapper). Unfortuatly this can only be checked with a Dial test indicator and a special adaptor. I would just take the pump off and take it to a diesel fuel sytem specialist, last time they charged me £20 to check and adust it. :)

  11. I'd suggest you replace the sender - they get weak over time and give a false reading.

    Les.

    Thanks Les,I now recall it was a cam bearing that can move and cause oil pressure to drop. First port of call will be the oil pressure switch as you suggest.

    Bill

  12. Hi all

    The oil light has just started coming on at idle on my 200tdi powered series3. I seem to recall reading somthing on a forum about a core plug that works loose (pressumably on the main oil gallery)? Just wondered if this rings a bell with any one.

  13. disco front prop shaft is designed to work with diff and output from gearbox out of line ( diff is tilted up a bit) you might need to check if your ones are in line or you might get vibration on overrun :blink:

    Well i didn't know that. As luck would have it I have turned my front axle on the spring seats to correct the caster angel for the 1 ton shackles, so now the diff points up a little. I haven't road tested it yet as i still have more jobs to do on it. Will post how I get on.

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