88inchthing
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Posts posted by 88inchthing
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I have a 2008 l322 tdv8. I’ve now had it for 5 years and 50k (bought on 57k)
Overall I’ve found it to be an excellent vehicle.The only major issue I’ve had was a turbo failure. My local lr specialist quoted £3775 for two brand new genuine turbos.
Not wanting to spend that I did the work myself and fitted replacement cores to both turbos total cost under £700.
I’d suggest taking one for a test drive. I think you’ll be impressed.
Also quite good on fuel. I average 24mpg which only drops by about 2mpg towing a 2.5 ton trailer, due I believe to the huge amount of torque.
Also an extremely good tow vehicle.
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14 hours ago, Escape said:
You can get a new core and reuse the housing (if no damage) to keep the cost down.
What exactly failed? If the compressor wheel is damaged there is a very real risk of debris making it into the engine...
Unfortunately it is the compressor wheel. The securing nut is missing as is part of the shat which appears to have sheared!
Worse still I can’t find the missing bits.
I think my only option is to remove the inter cooler and take it to someone who can dismantle and check it for debris. -
Unfortunately the left turbo has failed on my L322.
I have now dropped the sub frame etc and removed the down pipe. I can now spin the shaft by hand and it feels and sounds very rough.
Was just looking for some advice/insight on the following
Turbo failure on these engines is quite common around 100k. Does anyone know exactly why?
There are a number of horror stories about rapid failure of replacement turbos. Is it just folks not checking oil feed, poor cleanliness, bad quality parts ect?
What suppliers would you recommend. My local Specialist will only fit brand new Garret units. I can find cheap recons on eBay but a quick Google search shows very poor quality and reputation.
Tia
Bill
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Thanks for all the replies.
I now have the info I need.
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Thanks very much for your replies so far.
From what I can gather the Disco and Defender R380 Bell housings are identical as opposed to the lt77 where the Defender is shorter.
what I’m trying to do is sort my crunchy synchros on the cheap.
I’m about 80percent that if I buy a cheap second hand Disco box and swap the selector and quadrant, the Disco box will fit.It would be great if someone who’s done so themselves could confirm this.
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As the title suggests I’m hoping someone can give me a definitive answer. Can I fit a Disco r380 to a Defender without an adapter kit.
I realise this has been covered but it’s unclear.
I have the correct Defender box to rob the bits from so do I still need an adapter?
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Two questions really. Has anyone run 255 85 16 tyres on standard 90 suspension?
What experience and or opinions do people have on Toyo open country MT’s?
thanks in advance
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Ok thanks for the info. Best I start looking for an axle me thinks.
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Hi all.
Just wondered if anyone has fitted a 300 24 spline front axle to a Defender 110 200 tdi? My 200 axle is shot (sloppy diff, discs, Pads, Calipers, and swivels).
Seems like a good idea to source a mint as possible 24 spline unit and fit the whole thing. So far as I can tell should bolt straight up except for maybe the prop. Also i believe the 110 Defender brakes are bigger?
Really would be nice to hear from someone who has done this before.
Thanks in advance
Bill
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Thanks for the replies.Looks like injector seals should be the first of call.
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Hi I have been asked by a good friend to ask on here if fuel leaking into the oil on his 2002 Disco TD5 is a known problem?
He has got the idea from somewhere that it may be due to a cracked head?
Should probably point out at this stage that we haven't even pulled the rocker cover of yet, he is just rather anxious to known if it's a common fault.
Thanks in advance
Bill
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Just wondered if anyone could kindly recommend any LR friendly campsites as a base for laning in the Strata Florida area?
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Ok thanks very much for the replies, always good what works for others.
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I see a lot of you run rear mount rads and just wondered what you had done with the Engine oil cooler and Inter cooler?
I'm building a budget hybrid trialer with a Disco 300tdi.
My plan is to rear mount the Rad,blank of the oil cooler and pipe the Turbo straight to the inlet manifold. Seems the best option on the face of it as it's quickest and cheapest, and i can't see them doing me much good at low speed and coated in mud, also may reduce Turbo lag?
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Right.....
Quick job to replace the lift pump without the spacer, and runs much better !
But.... I've still got the judder/misfire/lumpy running at full revs, and I'm sure this is when its just before the limiter on the injection pump so I assume it must be something to do with the injection pump.
I'm inclined to try another injection pump, but I can't face the hassle of removing the old one either !
Any other ideas anyone...?
Cheers
Pete
Hi
I think it's well worth you both checking carefully that you have the correct banjo bolts fitted to the feed and return pipes on the Injection pump. I know it sounds a bit daft but I have known it cause exatly the fault described, as the hole in the return banjo bolt is smaller than the feed hence fuel starvation at mid to high revs.
HTH
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Hi all
I have been offered a Superwinch H14 hydraulic at a very good price. It does not however include the pump. Now I know some people run hydraulic winches from power steering pumps. So my question is can I run an h14 in this way?
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http://www.alrcnationals2011.co.uk/
I think day visitors are OK, if you want to camp then you might have to be a ALRC club member & book using the form on the link above, Just shove a e.mail to the event Secretary to check.
Thanks for the reply, couldn't go in the end as had to take the dog to the emergency vets. Never mind.
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Could anybody tell me if the ALRC nationals are open for public spectators? or is it ALRC members only?
Thanks in advance.
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If you replaced the pump, isnt it possible to advance or retard it by pivoting it on the bolts that connect it to the timing cover? I can never figure out the correct procedure for changing pumps as they should be locked when removed from the donor engine so they are int he correct position when attached to the recipient, but i'm sure there is some adjustment possible after fitting (a little like twiting the distributor on a petrol engine i suppose). May be completely wron on this, but someone who knows will be along to confirm or disregard what i say!
Other than that, i wonder if an injector may be at fault and knocking? or if the the volume screw has been fiddled with on the pump - but this would result in smoke rather than knocking.
Not sure but as far as I can remember 200tdi pump bolt holes are not sloted, however the pump timing could well still be wrong. If the previous owner of the pump has undone the centeral nut in error as opposed to the three 8mm bolts then the timing will have moved (no woodruf key they rely on the tapper). Unfortuatly this can only be checked with a Dial test indicator and a special adaptor. I would just take the pump off and take it to a diesel fuel sytem specialist, last time they charged me £20 to check and adust it.
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I'd suggest you replace the sender - they get weak over time and give a false reading.
Les.
Thanks Les,I now recall it was a cam bearing that can move and cause oil pressure to drop. First port of call will be the oil pressure switch as you suggest.
Bill
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Hi all
The oil light has just started coming on at idle on my 200tdi powered series3. I seem to recall reading somthing on a forum about a core plug that works loose (pressumably on the main oil gallery)? Just wondered if this rings a bell with any one.
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Try Bailey Morris in St Neots. They're a prop specialist, but not just 4wd, so don't add the usual "4x4 premium".
Well I hope I won't need to use them, but good to know as St Neots is close by. cheers
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I've cured this on mine by taking the disco shaft apart and lining up the yokes. Works a treat.
That could be handy to know, thanks for your input.
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disco front prop shaft is designed to work with diff and output from gearbox out of line ( diff is tilted up a bit) you might need to check if your ones are in line or you might get vibration on overrun
Well i didn't know that. As luck would have it I have turned my front axle on the spring seats to correct the caster angel for the 1 ton shackles, so now the diff points up a little. I haven't road tested it yet as i still have more jobs to do on it. Will post how I get on.
TDV8 Turbo failure
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Well the rangie is now back up and running.
In case it’s of use to anyone in the future here’s how it went.
Removed subframe, drive shafts, diff. Unbolted steering rack from subframe cable tied in place. Pulled back rack boots and removed steering arms from rack.
with subframe out the way removed left engine mount. This is when I found out they have a block drain bung. It’s right next to an engine mount bolt which you can only feel lol.
Yep I unknowingly undid it and got showered in red coolant 🌨.
on the right side I removed the starter motor and at this point I was able to remove both exhaust manifolds complete with turbos .
I Fitted replacement cores from a British company called Mellet supplied by Bearmach.
Total cost including gaskets and oil and filter was under £700