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Richard Mills

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  1. If you have a problem with the upper tailgate door, one of the items in the photo is to blame. Item 1 is the push button, push it and nothing happens. The button itself is OK it's the zinc alluminium alloy lever that has turned to white dust. Maybe they should have made it out of plastic. Item 2 is the latch mechanism, press the button, it gives a good klunk and the door only opens onto the safety catch. More pushes on the button gives similarly loud clukns but may nver open the door. It's that little hook on the end broken off. Item 3 The actuator. press the button and get a weak clunk and it doesn't open the door, press again and the clunk gets weaker each time. But it might work properly the next day, just until you are in a hurry then it goes to sleep again. The advice is, for any problem, change all three, it's a pain to get a stuck door open and you don't want to be doing it time and time again.
  2. Hi there, Check the contacts on the back of the alternator, the older versions feed the tachometer signal from there. A corroded tag will stop it working.
  3. There are numerous faults on the air suspension system. First is to check for leaks, go around the vehicle and listen for hissing. You might not hear any though. The compressor has various switch blocks that put the air into the suspension legs. Remove the fuse for the air suspension and look to see if one corner goes down, if so check with soap suds for a leak. The switch blocks themselves can stick causing the pressure to be vented. If they have gotten wet then corrosion inside the block can cause this. I stripped them down and changed the seals, very fiddly. I replaced one block entirely, the rear one. ( back goes down first) Finally, the pump has an exhaust valve on it, this is also prone to corrosion and can waste away the air. After a drive, listen to the vehicle with the ignition off. Over the next twenty minutes you should hear the switch blocks clicking to keep the vehicle level, and the exhaust valve popping to vent the excess gas if all is well. An Hitachi pump unit is about £300! Investigate the cause quickly. The new pump is supplied with it's relay, another thing to change before the pump.
  4. Check the alternator connections, the speedo is fed from there, it will be corrosion on the tag of one of the smaller spade terminals, or just plain loose.
  5. I had the local garage change both of the lower arms and the ride was very much better, it cost £400 though. Make sure the steering drop links are all right because slack in those can ruin the new ball joints and the whole job will need to be done again.
  6. The switch provides 12 volts to the relay, one tag at least must be low before the switch is operated then full 12 volts when the switch is on. It sounds like the switch is dodgy, try WD40 in it before buying a replacement. If all tags on the switch are at full 12 volts all the time then the switch is locked on and needs replacing. And there is another fault to find, suspect a relay too.
  7. I fixed mine, just took them both out, cleaned up the seal and the roof and refitted using sealant, no more leaks. Make sure the drain holes are clear and work properly, they make a lot of difference.
  8. Hi there, Mine was much worse than yours, holes big enough to put a foot through. I fitted a new boot floor over the old one, mig welded it in place. The hardest bit was getting the seat belt parts out. I took three days doing it and finished off with a good coat of hammerite green paint. It made the world of difference to my Disco. It's well worth buying a gas-less mig welder and learning to use it, an angle grinder too. Good luck with it.
  9. Hi, Mine did the exact same thing. To prove what it is, I used a wire with clips on and connected the fuel cut off switch directly to the battery, the fault went away. The trouble is then stopping the engine, just un-clip the lead to stop. The real fault was in the unit hidden behind the radio. Pull the module out and prize it open, look for the mounting lug of the relay, that is the power connection to the fuel switch. The soldering had let go. The manufacturing process doesn't heat that huge lug up enough. Buy a cheap soldering iron and solder it up. Hold the iron for a long time to get it properly heated up. Lots of car modules and washing machine ones too, have exactly the same problem.
  10. I think that if it were the slave cylinder seals leaking you should see a loss of fluid. The master cylinder seal can allow the fluid back past the seal and into the reservoir. Have a look at the push rod from the clutch pedal and see if there is any fluid leaking there, it's a sign that the master cylinder is past its best.
  11. If the battery light stays on it's a sign that the rectifier pack in the alternator is broken. First out is to get the alternator checked out.
  12. Mine was noisy but it appeared to work just fine. They have a plastic case around them with a foam rubber pad to keep the noise down. I ended up changing mine and it is much quieter, but the noise from it releasing the air is much louder. Mine failed with error "Gallery pressure not decreasing when vented." That's the vent valve and it was too corroded to replace, so it ended up being the whole lot. Much better now.
  13. My 2005 Disco 3 showed no fault light, but did have error code P140A. Which is from the left hand EGR valve, circuit 3 low. With a new valve in hand I was able to prove it was an electrical fault while the EGR valve still worked, may be not OK . As expected I was unable to change said valve in it's entirety so opted to change just the actuator. It still was pretty hard to do, but possible. This fixed the fault. Below are the pictures that show the various bits. 3 screws remove the actuator from the casting and the thing springs to one end. It needs a finger in the EGR output to stop the bar moving while the "U" shaped actuator thing is giggled into place. I stripped the actuator down to find exactly what I expected, the coil comes off seperately and has no problem (resistance of 4 ohms). The real failure can be seen in the last picture, the tiny wipers that run on the feedback tracks have fell off. It's always the smallest bit! The easier fix might have been to just change the feed back section, held on by 4 screws, it located with a "D" drive to the coil, but it would have been just as fiddley as it has the return spring inside it.
  14. In my opinion injector No1 is not delivering enough, but it is marginal. A round of injector cleaner should fix it. The test results are very detailed, a good report. On the V6, it's normally injector 6 that overheats and fails.
  15. Hi There, My recommendation is to log on to Toolstation's web site and buy shiny a new gas less MIG welder. I did for my disco 1 and it saved it from the scrap yard. The first job was the boot floor, and you have already done that one. Get some sheet steel, even sides from an old washing machine will do, and patch it up. You won't find anything as good as the one you have. I miss my disco 1; it's replacement, a D3 is much harder to work on. The inner wings are not that hard to do once you get going and as no one can see them, you can weld on as many bits as you need. Plenty of under seal and it will last another 20 years.
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