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mercguy

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About mercguy

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    zipzamzerpople
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  1. https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC8010
  2. Without trying to dissuade you or send you on a diagnostic path, there are a few things other than static timing and sensors that you need to check. 1. did you have the distributor apart, did you disassemble, clean relube and reassemble the mech advance? (you should have) 2. the distributor shaft needs to be checked for endplay and side play. this will cause a cycle of "I checked it and there's still a misfire" ignition issues. 3. the hall sensor needs to be checked and the trigger clearance needs to be correctly set, taking into account the freeplay in the shaft. 4. the retainer washer is problematic on the top of the shaft. There is a modification where the top is tapped for an m4 thread and small screw/washer/socket screw is used to fix this and prevent the damage that invariably occurs when an owner tries to remove a rotor that"wont come off the shaft". Ironically it's the attempts to remove problematic stuck rotors that cause misfires.... 5. the rollover switch under the passenger seat needs to be checked and cleaned / lubed and reset - this can cause intermittent cutouts similar to a failing dizzy module. 6. relocating the module to the inner guard near the coil / air intake is a very straightforward useful modification. It guarantees you keep the module from thermal cycling overheating issues. 7, you should check the idle air control solenoid valve on the rear of the plenum. disassemble, clean and reinstall with a new copper washer. 8. static timing in the order of approx 12ºBTDC is a good place to start for tuning, depending on the octane rating and your engine's compression. 9. the fuel pump wiring needs to be thoroughly checked, the fuel pump may even require replacement, as should the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator needs to be checked for correct operating range. 10. new rotor, cap and leads as well as quality plugs will make a difference. I chased a similar issue to you when I first obtained my RRC back in 2014. I went through all manner of 'forum opinion' given I was never a landrover owner prior to this ( and won't be buying another ) I ended up curing nearly all of my issues with a reasonably comprehensive rewiring of the electrics, which included the fundamental areas mentioned above. I found the sensors were all fine. The issue was the verdigris in many of the connectors and contacts on the wiring harness. much was fixed with a mixture of almost bopiling water and baking soda, zinc chloride flux and resoldering connectors, several cans of CO cleaner and DeoxIT and many connectors removed or replaced, then reassembled and sprayed with lanolin grease. a new ignition switch, removal of the fusible links in the engine bay short harness, replacing them with proper fusible links (like modern disco) in an IP rated enclosure, new fuel pump, and distributor module, coil, leads, distributor overhaul (including the mods) and new genuine lucas rotor and cap (yes lucas! I know!) all progressively replaced over the first 3 months of ownership in an effort to track down the culprit was an expense I did not forsee upon purchase. It wasn't until I took a serious look at the RRC's electrics that I ended up finding a number of quite significant voltage drops across several circuits that caused the 'ah-Ha!' moment which forced me to pull the entire lower dash out and check every single circuit. 90% of my problems were related to poor electrical contact and were easily fixed. Some were wear and tear related (indicator stalks, headlamp switch, ignition switch etc. Relays were put on the ignition to protect the switch (a LR wtf moment surely) and the headlamps. Bear in mind my RRC never saw any offroad use before I purchased it and the P.O. had fastidiously maintained this every 5000km (records) for 11 years prior. Turns out that the first owner (I am 3rd) was a bit "lax" and cheap on the post-warranty care (and likely the JLA dealerships were worse) and many of the unresolved omnipresent and previously undiagnosed issues which reared their ugly heads in the first 3 months of my ownership were all electrical related - and more ironically never required 'attention' until the vehicle was sold... read into that what you wish... Start with getting yourself a copy of RAVE, study it, and then go and test everything. remove any suspect wiring, clean every earth, clean every contact. That and a really thorough mechanical and fluid servicing, including a flush treatment on the oil and a new trans filter service kit, as well as TC, diffs and swivels. It's amazing what you will find. and fix! I have to say despite my loathing for LR as a company and the absolute carp build quality control and electrical design, the RRC has endearing qualities. It is one of the reasons I own one. I could have quite easily made the sensible decision and bought a w461 gelandewagen, which would have been logical - but the RRC always ha some kind of mystical luxury cache coupled with LR DNA with me, and while a perentie would have been a more appropriate choice for me from an LR perspective, the RRC is what I wanted. They are basic, and even though build quality is atrocious, they are dead easy to maintain and repair. Ultimately this is why they have a bit of a cult following I believe. After all, that is Land Rover's unofficial byline...... "Turning owners into Mechanics since 1959" back on topic though... you need rave ETM and you need to start checking the wiring as well as the mechanical stuff. follow logic and process. don't get sidetracked by other contributing factors until you have verified the DUT and made a determination as to whether it is working as designed or not.
  3. Ahh, so it's you! Have to say the missus was watching this with me a little while back and we both had a chuckle. Possibly one of the best no-BS deliveries I've ever seen and both of us just kept nodding and laughing in agreement. Love the vids!
  4. It's called RAVE. the ETM is freely available if you search. Size prevents it from being uploaded and shared. Also, there is a ballast resistor 'upgrade' available which uses more modern alloy-heatsink versions of the resistor. I think it was a BA part, a couple of guys down here have them in their RRC's. You could easily make one using parts from mouser/farnell/digikey etc a soldering iron and a spare piece of alloy you have laying around. the blowers aren't great, but if serviced they are 'quiet'. and in mine, they are quite powerful (MY92 / oct 1992 built).
  5. Despite the 606's known and widely accepted 'bulletproof' status, there are things on any 'junkyard' OM606 that require attention. A standard engine has an IP which is EDC. You need to find a mech ip from an OM603 and at least swap the elements from the 606 over (6mm) Better still, Goran Lindgren (superturbodiesel) and IP guru, will do an IP conversion / rebuild (better than anyone else on the planet) and you can bolt it on. elements / bhp is your choice. an 8mm super pump is overkill for everything other than full-on tractor pull / race. 6.5mm is more than enough, by which time you will want something bigger than the standard turbo. Glowplugs are a neglected item on 606's, and can cause big frustration when trying to remove / replace. an engine with regular servicing will not have this issue. rule#1 is do the glow plugs before you put the engine in the vehicle, and do it properly, you won't have an issue. big bhp applications need the rear water jacket mod, and valve springs at minimum. Mild boost and fuel needs nothing except EGR blanking plate. There are some manifold shortcuts you can take which make it quick and easy to remove, it involves removal of some of the inlet manifold webbing between the runners, and it will allow you to access all the bolts with a rattle gun. Makes IP access / adjustment super easy. EGR blanking plate. Any turbo swap will involve a custom manifold, to replace the OEM flange. F-tune Freddie is the 606 manifold guru. Alternator relocation bracket (will need exhaust manifold mod) raises the alternator higher to almost level with valve cover. Dominic @ k2designandfabrication.co.uk makes the brackets. SMT / GazFab do bolt-in conversion kits to the ZF auto or LT. 12-13L/100km is easily achievable with a laden vehicle.. If you spend time (and some money) tuning and sizing your turbo correctly, don't drive like an idiot and learn the engine power curve, the economy can be far better. But beware. You need to learn some Mercedes-language and stick to the Mercedes servicing schedules. If you do, the reward is absolutely flawless longevity. Any neglect or abuse without comparable servicing will net you a boat anchor, just like the bmw, Volvo, ford, duramax transplants. It's all relative, either be prepared to learn and enjoy the fruits of your effort, or stick with what you know and understand. Nothing wrong with a sorted 300tdi, I'd argue better than a td5 and less hassle, but they do have some obvious known issues which need attention. So do the 4bd1t's, but you have to ask yourself, are we agricultural or are we accepting of modern technologies. Ultimately that's what will dictate your swap. It's all entirely dependent on you getting a good motor first, and that applies to any swap, regardless. If you get a dud, then you're always going to be complaining.
  6. Just curious about the application of the raptor coat - is it absolutely necessary to strip back to primer, or can the existing surface be sanded back? Obviously with you restoring this shell the process is going to be blast/etch/prime/coat but for those of us who don't have access to a metalized zinc application unit, the next best thing is to sand coats back sufficiently - but whether or not that has an effect on the adhesion or longevity of the applied coat is the burning question. Progress is looking great. How's it all coming along now?
  7. I'll second the Honda GX series - 15hp is perfect. You can also look for yanmar diesel vtwin option if you prefer. Both are mega-reliable and long-proven.
  8. Excuse the ignorance, but I'm no 8274 expert - Is the drum extension simply to fit more line? or does it serve another purpose? I like the idea of a freespool, but would worry about it engaging when under load. I'm sure that whoever makes them has already thought of this though.
  9. I have to envy your perseverence. I just found rust along the sealer seam at the top of the bulkhead, where the firewall meets the cowl/bonnet bracket panel sheetmetal. Seriously Mildly miffed. I wonder if there are any stainless steel panel pressings available. Doubt it.
  10. Exactly. Thing is it's not my vehicle or box. but it seems the box might be mine now, if you know what I mean (scrapyard) I didn't want to hijack the thread, so will just leave it here for informational purposes. It seems that R380's have this same trouble behind a standard rover v8 as well as the TD5, so there is an obvious metallurgy /build quality issue going on. I'll be rebuilding this one for myself since the autobox is replacing this unit. As for the LT - well I've discovered that the intermediate shaft has the usual wear in the casing, so it's going to be sleeved and rebuilt with all new internal gears (maxidrive) and an ashcroft ATB centre diff.
  11. This is the pinion shaft - notice no shaft wear, but the inside of the throwout bearing sleeve / pivot fork arm is completely rooted. I have a feeling this box has been rebuilt more than once, and this wear may be from a previously failed pinion shaft bearing or a failed spigot bush in another flywheel. Dodgy as all buggery this is, so I can tell you the R380's getting a teardown as well as the LT230. btw CW, this R380 came form a '92 2 door rossignol disco1 v8. perhaps this is why the output shaft differs to your TD5??
  12. Apparently I'm only allowed to upload 1.95mb, so I cannot upload any more pics. Sorry.
  13. Just so you know, this R380 / LT230 sat behind an OM605 for 12 months. The output shaft (mainshaft) was replaced at time fo rebuild. Light duty offroad, and on a trip up a shaly hillside the LT input gear gave out spectacularly, sending driver on an interesting and rapid reverse trajectory before the handbrake was effective enough to stop the vehicle.. trailered home, stripped down etc... and the below pic shows wear on spline from R380. Can't show you the LT, because it's input gear and bearings are now grey paste internally. Yes, lubed correctly etc. perfectly serviceable blah blah blah... I know the owners driving habits and his maintenance schedules pretty rigorous. I can't upload the input shaft pic, because it's too large, but the shaft itself is fine, the clutch pivot sleeve however, shows a ridiculously abnormal wear pattern on the inside, which doesn't match any wear marks on the input shaft itself. This is somewhat puzzling, as it can only mean deflection on the pivot fork and throwout bearing - possibly the diaphragm is too heavy, but it's a standard sachs pressure plate... I have it sitting on my workshop floor attached to the flywheel. All I can put this down to, is a weakness in the design - the R380 / LT230 mating splines are less than satisfactory, from a materials perspective (genuine LR) so perhaps Dave Ashcroft has something up his sleeve for you, god knows how long it would have been before the R380's shaft stripped splines and in a way this is a blessing in disguise. Autobox is now going in.... NB there is oil (and fretting corrosion which I removed partially to illustrate the chewed out spline) getting to the shaft, and it was a crossdrilled gear. I'll try to show the pinion shaft image. it's truly odd.
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