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About mercguy

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  1. mercguy

    Is this practical

    Despite the 606's known and widely accepted 'bulletproof' status, there are things on any 'junkyard' OM606 that require attention. A standard engine has an IP which is EDC. You need to find a mech ip from an OM603 and at least swap the elements from the 606 over (6mm) Better still, Goran Lindgren (superturbodiesel) and IP guru, will do an IP conversion / rebuild (better than anyone else on the planet) and you can bolt it on. elements / bhp is your choice. an 8mm super pump is overkill for everything other than full-on tractor pull / race. 6.5mm is more than enough, by which time you will want something bigger than the standard turbo. Glowplugs are a neglected item on 606's, and can cause big frustration when trying to remove / replace. an engine with regular servicing will not have this issue. rule#1 is do the glow plugs before you put the engine in the vehicle, and do it properly, you won't have an issue. big bhp applications need the rear water jacket mod, and valve springs at minimum. Mild boost and fuel needs nothing except EGR blanking plate. There are some manifold shortcuts you can take which make it quick and easy to remove, it involves removal of some of the inlet manifold webbing between the runners, and it will allow you to access all the bolts with a rattle gun. Makes IP access / adjustment super easy. EGR blanking plate. Any turbo swap will involve a custom manifold, to replace the OEM flange. F-tune Freddie is the 606 manifold guru. Alternator relocation bracket (will need exhaust manifold mod) raises the alternator higher to almost level with valve cover. Dominic @ k2designandfabrication.co.uk makes the brackets. SMT / GazFab do bolt-in conversion kits to the ZF auto or LT. 12-13L/100km is easily achievable with a laden vehicle.. If you spend time (and some money) tuning and sizing your turbo correctly, don't drive like an idiot and learn the engine power curve, the economy can be far better. But beware. You need to learn some Mercedes-language and stick to the Mercedes servicing schedules. If you do, the reward is absolutely flawless longevity. Any neglect or abuse without comparable servicing will net you a boat anchor, just like the bmw, Volvo, ford, duramax transplants. It's all relative, either be prepared to learn and enjoy the fruits of your effort, or stick with what you know and understand. Nothing wrong with a sorted 300tdi, I'd argue better than a td5 and less hassle, but they do have some obvious known issues which need attention. So do the 4bd1t's, but you have to ask yourself, are we agricultural or are we accepting of modern technologies. Ultimately that's what will dictate your swap. It's all entirely dependent on you getting a good motor first, and that applies to any swap, regardless. If you get a dud, then you're always going to be complaining.
  2. Just curious about the application of the raptor coat - is it absolutely necessary to strip back to primer, or can the existing surface be sanded back? Obviously with you restoring this shell the process is going to be blast/etch/prime/coat but for those of us who don't have access to a metalized zinc application unit, the next best thing is to sand coats back sufficiently - but whether or not that has an effect on the adhesion or longevity of the applied coat is the burning question. Progress is looking great. How's it all coming along now?
  3. I'll second the Honda GX series - 15hp is perfect. You can also look for yanmar diesel vtwin option if you prefer. Both are mega-reliable and long-proven.
  4. mercguy

    Om606 into discovery

    You need to look at the other thread:
  5. Excuse the ignorance, but I'm no 8274 expert - Is the drum extension simply to fit more line? or does it serve another purpose? I like the idea of a freespool, but would worry about it engaging when under load. I'm sure that whoever makes them has already thought of this though.
  6. I have to envy your perseverence. I just found rust along the sealer seam at the top of the bulkhead, where the firewall meets the cowl/bonnet bracket panel sheetmetal. Seriously Mildly miffed. I wonder if there are any stainless steel panel pressings available. Doubt it.
  7. That adaptor is very nice. I just sent rakeway an email.
  8. mercguy

    Mercedes om606 engine

    Exactly. Thing is it's not my vehicle or box. but it seems the box might be mine now, if you know what I mean (scrapyard) I didn't want to hijack the thread, so will just leave it here for informational purposes. It seems that R380's have this same trouble behind a standard rover v8 as well as the TD5, so there is an obvious metallurgy /build quality issue going on. I'll be rebuilding this one for myself since the autobox is replacing this unit. As for the LT - well I've discovered that the intermediate shaft has the usual wear in the casing, so it's going to be sleeved and rebuilt with all new internal gears (maxidrive) and an ashcroft ATB centre diff.
  9. mercguy

    Mercedes om606 engine

    This is the pinion shaft - notice no shaft wear, but the inside of the throwout bearing sleeve / pivot fork arm is completely rooted. I have a feeling this box has been rebuilt more than once, and this wear may be from a previously failed pinion shaft bearing or a failed spigot bush in another flywheel. Dodgy as all buggery this is, so I can tell you the R380's getting a teardown as well as the LT230. btw CW, this R380 came form a '92 2 door rossignol disco1 v8. perhaps this is why the output shaft differs to your TD5??
  10. mercguy

    Mercedes om606 engine

    Apparently I'm only allowed to upload 1.95mb, so I cannot upload any more pics. Sorry.
  11. mercguy

    Mercedes om606 engine

    Just so you know, this R380 / LT230 sat behind an OM605 for 12 months. The output shaft (mainshaft) was replaced at time fo rebuild. Light duty offroad, and on a trip up a shaly hillside the LT input gear gave out spectacularly, sending driver on an interesting and rapid reverse trajectory before the handbrake was effective enough to stop the vehicle.. trailered home, stripped down etc... and the below pic shows wear on spline from R380. Can't show you the LT, because it's input gear and bearings are now grey paste internally. Yes, lubed correctly etc. perfectly serviceable blah blah blah... I know the owners driving habits and his maintenance schedules pretty rigorous. I can't upload the input shaft pic, because it's too large, but the shaft itself is fine, the clutch pivot sleeve however, shows a ridiculously abnormal wear pattern on the inside, which doesn't match any wear marks on the input shaft itself. This is somewhat puzzling, as it can only mean deflection on the pivot fork and throwout bearing - possibly the diaphragm is too heavy, but it's a standard sachs pressure plate... I have it sitting on my workshop floor attached to the flywheel. All I can put this down to, is a weakness in the design - the R380 / LT230 mating splines are less than satisfactory, from a materials perspective (genuine LR) so perhaps Dave Ashcroft has something up his sleeve for you, god knows how long it would have been before the R380's shaft stripped splines and in a way this is a blessing in disguise. Autobox is now going in.... NB there is oil (and fretting corrosion which I removed partially to illustrate the chewed out spline) getting to the shaft, and it was a crossdrilled gear. I'll try to show the pinion shaft image. it's truly odd.
  12. Bump. Update? Summer's over here How's that spud shaft holding up? I'm concerned about the weld on the yoke. (been there, done that). had 1040 yokes & 4140 60mm thickwall machined tube replaced my propshaft on the 124 coupe. No breakies now. centre uni uprated to spicer 1350. (can't fit anything bigger in the transmission tunnel). I'm sure you have it sorted, just keep an eye out for fatigue on the root of the weld on the 3 fingers. The 722.6 clutches should take most of the shock out anyway.
  13. mercguy

    Mercedes om606 engine

    I would go for the remote setup. One of the annoying things about m104/OM606 is the element type filter housing and the cap. Late ones have GR-ABS plastic ****house cap, the early ones have alloy, but they are different sizes! something worth noting when you have to buy a special hazet oil filter socket for each type to remove the caps. PITA. Not MB's finest hour I must say. Hopefully you also have a housing with the remote cooler. Be aware of the oil filter housings that use the coolant heat-exchanger. These are notorious for failing in poorly maintained engines, the exchanger core rots out internally and you end up with grey soup for oil and coolant, and big problems. It's common on m104's and OM605/6's. 603's had an alloy cap with 2 different size nuts/bolt, similar to old om617's 2-bolt cap.
  14. mercguy

    Mercedes om606 engine

    Looks quite close to the firewall... Can you take a pic from the side so I can see how far back it's mounted? maybe a pic of the engine mount as well? quite interested in the progress, It's looking good - keep us posted!!! cheers!
  15. mercguy

    Mercedes om606 engine

    At this stage it's all conjecture anyway. My own experiences have led me to believe that it's more a case of how a vehicle is treated (driven), than how much power you're funneling through the transmission. I've seen the 5 speed 717.404 take a massive pounding of supercharged m117 5.6L v8 and not even whince, and in the same sentence, seen an identical box totally minced internally from a 2.3 litre 16v N/A engine. I've seen 722.6's reworked and taking brutal shock loads from Hemi Chrysler SRT's and twin turbo OM606's with 8mm pumps. I've seen the same transmission fail behind a standard m113 5.5L kompressor v8 in an E55 AMG. Whether the r380 handles the torque is probably not the entire question. The boxes can be made to be 'reliable'. Problem is, 380Nm is not a lot when we're talking about an OM606. The saving grace however, is that the torque peak moves up the rpm band thanks to the OM606's turbo. However, I feel that removing the dual-mass flywheel will do more harm than good. Despite all the conjecture and bull**** that people carry on with, the Dual-Mass flywheel has many advantages over a single mass unit. Reduced intertia at the bite-point of the clutch (on take up and on shift point disengagement) and an incredible reduction in drivetrain shock loading. This is why nearly every manual vehicle on the planet now uses them. I'm not saying they are 'better' but they certainly do have a lot of advantages in this application. One of the other advantages is the increased mass. Sure, 17.5Kg is a fair amount of mass, and coupled with the centrifugal force of the crank, it does have a tendency to slow the rpm increase a little. But, again, this is an advantage offroad, where low-rpm stability is required for difficult low-speed low-traction low-gear scenarios. A dual-mass flywheel vehicle is a much smoother and more tractable vehicle to drive. I have a dual-mass 6 speed manual behind my m104 (which is exactly the same block as the OM606) and can state for the record that it is far superior to the single mass flywheel in smoothness. But it does hamper the engines ability to spin up rapidly. I also have a brutally lightened single mass flywheel and will also state for the record, that it transmits every single power pulse through the input shaft gear and has killed input shaft bearings, reverse idler gears and other nonsense in my supposedly 'unbreakable' dogleg 5 speed getrag. So believe who you will - I choose to bank on experience. It;s like these people who say " you need a racing clutch" when the standard 240mm sachs clutch and pressure plate lasts over 100,000km with constant abuse - on a 200kW engine. So time will tell how long it will be before that sprinter dual-mass-delete flywheel helps to destroy your input shaft gear and bearing. It's exactly these scenarios where an automatic has a distinct advantage, not only from a torque multiplication factor, but also from a tractive stability and smoothness. There have been quite a few 'manual versus automatic' debates/arguments recently. The sad reality is that in modern scenarios, a transmission like the 722.6 which has a controllable shift program, the ability to lock into a single gear and the distinct advantage of being a fluid-coupled drivetrain, gives it a significant advantage. The only downside is the difficulty of bump-strating it. Something a manual box can easily do. It's also something that in a vast desolate environment (like most of Australia) there is a singular purpose and necessity to have a manual transmission in preference to an automatic. Or a good mate who can tow you when the **** hits the fan. I hope for your sake, the r380 can handle the increased harshness at idle rpm's from the single mass flywheel conversion, but in the same sentence I also suspect it will not long be for this earth purely because of this engine characteristic - and not because of the claims of 'massive torque' others have stated. The damage is not done when in constant mesh. the damage is done when the mesh is NOT constant. Please keep us informed of your progress. I hope it works out for you.

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