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About Vogler

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    Brussels, Belgium

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  1. Vogler

    Elusive connector

    Defender2 member PaulMC has an ebay shop with Land Rover connectors, but has a bit more in stock than he offers there. You might try and contact him?
  2. Vogler

    squeeling noise at high revs

    Our Td5 made a squealing noise at high revs when its outlet manifold was warped. That particular squeal was'caused by the metal plates of the manifold gasket vibrating. I know it's a different engine, but maybe it's worth checking if all connections with gaskets are tight. A warped manifold is a typical Td5 issue, and could be recognised by traces of soot where the block joins the manifold. Two nuts could be turned by hand.
  3. Actually I never thought of sending them the photos, I presumed that they have probably seen any possible way of destruction of their products. Greetings, Joris
  4. The seller gave me permission to open the other of the two ATB's to assess its condition and to see if it would be OK. In the end I did return both of them but at least it gave me the chance to see what's inside. I suspect others are keen to see it too, so here are some pics. The large cogs should be switched on the photo. This way they wouldn't fit. This is what you see once it's open. Underneath the cog one can see a broken belleville washer, which should be a bit deeper underneat a smaller cog, I probably made a mistake when I briefly put things back to make the photos. One should see a ring on top of it which is part of a smaller, sliding sprocket-like part that keeps the rings contained. They can be seen at the top of the exploded views. The large cog that receives the halfshaft. I now have a new ATB waiting for installation, and when comparing the splines were indeed worn, as Snagger mentioned. The worm wheels sit in the pockets without any bearings or alike. Actually I was surprised about how loosely it all fits. There were also very few unpainted machined surfaces on the inside, also on the outside 'lid' which the worm wheels push against. Here you can clearly see a crack in the spring. Two or three spring washers were broken. Drilling a bit deeper. The middle parts and upper worm wheels are out, and you can just discern the worm wheels of the other side. Some details of the worm wheels and sprockets. There's quite some wear and some chipping to be seen. If they were truly low mileage, than I have the impression that they have already suffered a lot Hope you enjoy it. Greetings, Joris
  5. Seller agreed to take the ATB's back, so I'll order a new one at Ashcroft shortly. Thanks to all for their valued input! Joris
  6. Great pointer Bowie69, I found the post, with a photo of a disassembled ATB ! Thanks!
  7. Cheers all. I mailed Dave Ashcroft, asking if he could estimate their condition based on the photo, but apart from the fact that the springs are obviously cracked, he can't say anything. I'll ask the seller first if he's prepared to take them back, if he doesn't I'll open them. Actually I'm quite curious to disassemble the ATB's and see their innards. I found absolutely nothing online about opening Ashcroft ATB's (which might be a testimony to their strength) except for the post I quoted above , but I'm not prepared to invest that much money in what might be scrap just for curiosity's sake. J
  8. Thanks guys. Think I'll have a go at it next Saturday, dropped a mail to Ashcroft concerning parts. I suddenly saw what you meant with 'illusion'. Freaky! Greetings, J
  9. The teeth that you see are the splines for the driveshaft. The photo has been taken from the opening where you insert the halfshaft, in the lower right of the image you posted. Edit: your image also shows that the cracked item is most likely one of the belleville washers. Thank you for posting it! Joris
  10. Hi all, Just bought a set of used Ashcroft ATB's. Low mileage but probably used intensily: seller had a Disco Td5 on extreme off road tyres and upgraded to air lockers. The bearings sound a bit grainy and I found some dirt in the splines. Obviously it has seen a bit more than just oil, contrary to what the seller told me. Also found some cracks in what looks like a shim (photo attached). I presume that a dirty halfshaft has been installed - one can also see some rust coloured dirt in the beginning of the splines, in the out-of-focus area. So I think a good clean is in order. According to a post on the South African forum, the ATB's are quite easy to open and clean: Does anyone have to add something to that? Greetings, Joris
  11. Vogler

    90 vibration trouble

    A fellow belgian club member went through a lot of trouble to finally find the cause in a defective damper on a brand new 110 2.2Td4.
  12. Vogler

    TD5 clutch

    Often read that it helps to keep the clutch pedal depressed overnight (using a block of wood or so) to get rid of most of the air in the circuit
  13. Vogler


    This is a good vin decoder for Land Rovers: http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html Greetings, Joris
  14. Vogler

    Defender Td5 2003 - Egr / cooler delete

    The cooler is basically a heat exchanger between the cooling circuit and the exhaust gases. If you put the blanking plate at the end, and keep the cooler active in the circuit, then it contributes to warming up the coolant . It might help getting heating a bit quicker when it's cold.(although possibly slightly since it is now a dead-end) Joris
  15. Vogler

    TD5 Injector Seals

    When the rocker cover is off, check the rockers too. My indy told that he finds worn rollers quite regularly on Td5's (although it's mentioned very rarely on the forums) and told me to always do a quick check on them whenever the cover is off. The middle one showed significant wear and had to be replaced. The cam is much harder, and in his long career my indy has replaced a Td5 cam shaft for this type of wear only once when it was really bad. He deemed mine ok enough to leave in place. I replaced the individual rocker with a used one. Unfortunately you can't buy new ones separately. Land Rover very explicitely tells never to use 10p rockers on a 15p engine. The opposite (15p rocker shaft assembly on a 10p engine) is allowed on the other hand. The damage turned out to exist for a while already, since it shows on a picture I made when changing the wiring loom 35k ago. I completely missed it at the time: Here's how I kept the injectors in the right sequence. I also noted it on paper as a back-up: This injector seal has been replaced about 10 thousand miles ago: while these have served at least 40 thousand miles. That's when I bought the car. If they are the originals than they lived through approx 80k: Give the O-rings a smidge of lubrication before fitting the injector and take care that the seal doesn't fall off. You can help them to remain in place by using a tiny bit of grease to stick them to the injector. Hope this all helps, Joris

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