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Vogler last won the day on February 22

Vogler had the most liked content!

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About Vogler

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    Brussels, Belgium

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  1. Looking at the most expensive part, it seems that the stub axle was cheaper than retail price for a genuine LR one. Price starts at £335 according to https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/FTC3154. (Maybe VAT accounts for the difference? Don't know about UK VAT) Most expensive OEM version is £75. J
  2. Ah, I see. I'm afraid I have to disappoint you here...
  3. I'm not a native English speaker, unfortunately I can only try and guess what you're saying here. I assume that a similar expression would include 'anorak' 😉 ? Agreed, but still thought it was the appropriate place.
  4. Given HfH's advice in capital letters, it's probably a no brainer to use original shims. But which parameter is of most importance? Toughness or thickness? Here's why I'm asking: During the rebuild of my front diff and LT230, I've noticed that Land Rover shims are significantly harder when compared to Ashcroft's shim kits. If you need a couple of goes in determining shim sizes and need to drive out the bearing race by punching on the shims (mild steel drift, used if press was impossible), the Ashcroft ones become squashed and bent, whereas the original ones come out of it almost unsc
  5. There's a power spec kit waiting to be installed here. I asked LOF's advice for an overlander Td5, specifically mentioning our experiences with heavily corrugated roads, and the power spec is what they suggested. They responded quickly, Luke seems like a nice chap. I did express my doubts about risks of a single mass flywheel. They have the answer on their blog here. It must be noted that they're defending their own products of course, but the explanation seems legitimate.
  6. A local club member I talked to a couple of years ago spoke highly about Castrol Transmax Z (Td5, R380). I see it being referred to in African context (SA) too. He used it during a Morocco trip and gave feedback after 5k miles. Cold nights, hot desert days, steep climbing, and long distance highway traffic. He said the gearchange was like butter, and the box was more silent and significantly cooler. To be honest I would be reluctant to chanhe from MTF based on this info only, but who knows it might help... Joris
  7. You will also have to undo the bracket that holds the brake line in place, which means undoing bolts of the top swivel bearing. These are open holes, so anything which falls into them ends up in the swivel grease/oil, clean well before you undo them. When you undo these bolts, the tension on the swivel bearings is undone which means that the hub will have a lot of play and that swivel grease will leak from the bottom of the ball. If you have a second pair of hands, ask them to pull the hub outward, so you keep the large swivel oil seal tightened to the ball. Best to have some one shot ava
  8. Western, you probably didn't get the complete link <- this should do it It's the 3rd edition, of 2000, Publication Part No. LRL 0081ENG, where it is written in capitals and in colour not to use a crush tube. I have recently read or heard mention on one of the Land Rover related YouTube channels that Ashcroft use collapsible tubes in all their LT230 rebuilds. Greetings, Joris
  9. Coulnd't agree more. Three front crown wheel bolts of our 110 broke and chipped some teeth. The drained oil showed nothing but literally one tiny single flint, despite the presence of plenty of shrapnel in there. With magnetic plugs I wouldn't have suspected and disassembled the LT230. Out of curiosity: who supplies these? Amazing that all teeth survived. Have you had the opportunity to check the condition of the intermediate shaft holes yet? Greetings Joris
  10. Thanks for confirming this Dave! Based on the fact that you prefer machining the diff, I presume that the thinner crown wheel is not the best choice. Yesterday I was about to order your 4-pin diff but I think it's better to see how deliveries fare in the CoVid panic that has been soaring since... Anyway - that gives me some more time to contemplate between an ATB or an open diff. Unfortunately I won't be able to afford uprated CV's at the same time and I have the impression that an ATB with standard CV's poses more risk of breakage than an open diff. Joris
  11. I'm currently facing the same questions regarding the front diff, only a couple of weeks after having contributed to this topic. First thought it was the LT230, but it turned out to be the front crown wheel bolts that had gotten loose and broken off, so I'm currently rebuilding the transfer case and the front diff 😀😀 A local club member told me that a specific crown wheel allows fitting a P38 4-pin in the front. He's knowledgeable, likes offroading and has worked for LR, so I got confused since it is being told everywhere that it's not possible without machining the diff. Then I found Ash
  12. Thank you, I'm quite surprised by the results myself TBH.... I spent some time looking into that today, it might be possible. The site where I keep my photos can enable visitors to order quality prints through a UK company. Never looked into it before, I should do some more research before setting this up. If people are interested I can look further into it. The images are fairly hi-res and prints up to 30" would still look OK, the water marks wouldn't end up on the hardcopies of course. The larger part of today was spent on further tweaking the photos and making some
  13. And the whole contraption with the input and intermediate gears: J
  14. Here's the update on the layered image. This time I also included the bearings: Greetings, Joris
  15. Good that you like it. The R sure looks different, thanks for posting that photo! It seems to have considerably larger holes to let oil into the diff carrier. Mads, it didn't look as sparkly when I opened the casing, it was more like the land of Mordor covered in black sticky oil. The last year I did seem to notice more heat coming from the gearbox tunnel. I also made a gif of the diff gear, with an Ashcroft cross pin. Stupidly I forgot to include the copper shims in the pics. The shims were completely gone when I disassembled the transfer box. One can see the circular scra
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