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Vogler last won the day on February 22 2020

Vogler had the most liked content!

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About Vogler

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  1. Here's an Android based project: https://github.com/hairyone/TD5Tester Joris
  2. Here's an opportunity to chuckle some more. Make sure to look at the whole thing, so you can fully enjoy the last two seconds. I couldn't help but laugh out loudly:
  3. Antares Treadwell, a Chawton White Hardtop 110 Td5, MY06 that feels most at home in the Iceland highlands.


  4. I ordered a new genuine crown wheel and pinion for the front diff of our Td5 earlier this year, and found Dana stamped gears in the box.
  5. I wouldn't be too sure about that. I recently have rebuilt the front diff and LT230, and have noticed several times that new bearings result in differences. I had to replace the pinion so I couldn't compare the effect of new bearings. However, measurements changed in the LT230 which is quite a comparable situation given the fact it also has tapered bearings. Make sure to properly loctite the crown wheel bolts with loctite 270. I also used allen bolts with Nordlock rings. The Land Rover bolts (FTC5150) tend to 'eat' their way into the steel, resulting in play and eventually breakage. This
  6. This is exactly why I used the Tef Gel and plastic seals between the components, so I'm not really 'throwing stainless around'. Anyway, if I'm not mistaken most parts concerned are steel (bulkhead, doors, hinges) since it's a 2nd gen Td5 (except for the body at the rear door hinges) I didn't know about stainless being brittle though, but I don't expect the hinges of the doors to be under thát much stress. Joris
  7. YRM also have an assortment of plastic seals and tapes to isolate parts from another. I recently replaced rusty door bolts by stainless ones, added yrm plastic seals between the hinges and body and applied tef-gel, which should prevent galvanic corrosion and is resistant to marine environments. Silly expensive stuff, if you do a search here you'll likely find similar products. Joris
  8. Not as heavy duty as what you're aiming for, but I fabricobled a Thien baffle much like the one in the YT film below when I had a lot of sawing work to do in our apartment. I hooked my circular saw to a workshop vac with the thing in between, and it worked surprisingly well for basically just two buckets and some drain piping.
  9. I hope I'm not veering too much off topic, but what are/were the symptoms? Joris
  10. Oops, it should have been addressed to Snagger! My apologies! J
  11. @Snagger Looks nice; do you have any pics of the finished project? @Dfndr I'm curious to see the current and future shape of your project too. A bit Off Topic: Having a HT for travel myself, I'm not too sure if its the ideal type, we always find ourselves dancing around each other at the rear door, mostly because the stove is on a fold down table at the door. I have changed the windows by gullwing types of Explore - this post made me do a write-up in the International forum. Always curious to see how others customise their HT, I really like this one Joris
  12. A topic of a poster adapting his hardtop tub for overlanding led me to this write-up of the replacement windows I put in our 110. It's been over a year since I replaced the horrendous truck cab windows of our Td5 Hardtop 110 with gullwings. I liked the look of the original windows, but I finally had enough of the cheap and fragile plastic latches and sliding windows that took a fight every time we wanted to use them. A reason not to open them often prevailed... The Explore glazing windows are AFAIK the only truck cab-sized gullwing replacements. Regrettably they weren't available in
  13. A late reaction, but the rebuild of the front diff and transfer box took a while due to CoVid and replacement parts not up to specs. We recently took our Td5 on a club trip to the Marquenterre dunes, first outing with an ATB in both front and rear axle. The difference is impressive, lots more grip in the loose sand, some difficult slopes were taken with remarkable ease. If you're often on loose terrain, they're certainly worth it. The steering tends to pull towards the centre slightly harder than before. That took a bit of getting used to, initially I thought something was wrong with
  14. Looking at the most expensive part, it seems that the stub axle was cheaper than retail price for a genuine LR one. Price starts at £335 according to https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/FTC3154. (Maybe VAT accounts for the difference? Don't know about UK VAT) Most expensive OEM version is £75. J
  15. Ah, I see. I'm afraid I have to disappoint you here...
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