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Vogler

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About Vogler

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    Brussels, Belgium

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  1. Vogler

    90 vibration trouble

    A fellow belgian club member went through a lot of trouble to finally find the cause in a defective damper on a brand new 110 2.2Td4.
  2. Vogler

    TD5 clutch

    Often read that it helps to keep the clutch pedal depressed overnight (using a block of wood or so) to get rid of most of the air in the circuit
  3. Vogler

    DEFENDER MODEL

    This is a good vin decoder for Land Rovers: http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html Greetings, Joris
  4. Vogler

    Defender Td5 2003 - Egr / cooler delete

    The cooler is basically a heat exchanger between the cooling circuit and the exhaust gases. If you put the blanking plate at the end, and keep the cooler active in the circuit, then it contributes to warming up the coolant . It might help getting heating a bit quicker when it's cold.(although possibly slightly since it is now a dead-end) Joris
  5. Vogler

    TD5 Injector Seals

    When the rocker cover is off, check the rockers too. My indy told that he finds worn rollers quite regularly on Td5's (although it's mentioned very rarely on the forums) and told me to always do a quick check on them whenever the cover is off. The middle one showed significant wear and had to be replaced. The cam is much harder, and in his long career my indy has replaced a Td5 cam shaft for this type of wear only once when it was really bad. He deemed mine ok enough to leave in place. I replaced the individual rocker with a used one. Unfortunately you can't buy new ones separately. Land Rover very explicitely tells never to use 10p rockers on a 15p engine. The opposite (15p rocker shaft assembly on a 10p engine) is allowed on the other hand. The damage turned out to exist for a while already, since it shows on a picture I made when changing the wiring loom 35k ago. I completely missed it at the time: Here's how I kept the injectors in the right sequence. I also noted it on paper as a back-up: This injector seal has been replaced about 10 thousand miles ago: while these have served at least 40 thousand miles. That's when I bought the car. If they are the originals than they lived through approx 80k: Give the O-rings a smidge of lubrication before fitting the injector and take care that the seal doesn't fall off. You can help them to remain in place by using a tiny bit of grease to stick them to the injector. Hope this all helps, Joris
  6. Vogler

    Swing Away Spare Wheel Carrier of choice?

    Mantec is continuing as 'ISG trading as Mantec', still on mantec.co.uk and distributed by Flatdog and Allmakes. I have a Nakatanenga myself. Bleeding expensive indeed, but stainless. The wheel does shudder a bit, but all is still solid after quite some stretches of corrugated road. Joris
  7. Vogler

    Defender TD5 Rocker Cover Gasket replacement

    According to the workshop manual one should put two dots of sealant of approx 3mm diameter on the top corners of the 'U' on 10p models. Use caution so no sealant can get into the small hole in the bottom of the 'U', it's part of the oil circuit. Greetings, Joris
  8. Vogler

    110 brake calipers - rebuild or buy

    Mind that front and rear calipers have different gallery seals. I ordered them and the stainless pistons at shop4autoparts. There's a small metal tube in the longer gallery seals of the front calipers which is not included in the new seals, so make sure not to discard it. I rebuild the calipers of our 110 2 years ago. One of them had to be replaced because there was too much corrosion in the slots for the seals. Take that possibility into account if you only order parts for a rebuild. I split them at the time and IIRC someone here (Western I think) posted some research about the torque settings for the bolts keeping the halves together. I remember it to be quite high, which is the only thing that makes me doubt about splitting: although there are no issues, I wonder if it is OK to reuse the bolts. Greetings, Joris
  9. Vogler

    Best night heater?

    I have installed a Planar 2D heater in/under our 110 Hardtop. Planar is decent kit, and lots of parts are German or French made. Only downside of the Planar is the standard command module which is quite 'cryptic'. We often didn't have a clue if the thing was starting or shutting down, so I can strongly suggest one of the optional displays. Also the standard cable to it is rather short, but a longer one is available. Planar has some support, Webasto has an extensive worldwide dealer network for support. But if you treat the Planar well it will last a long time. There's a nakatanenga unit to fit it under the cubby box. However, we use the rear of the car for shelter during the trip and the rear bulkhead would be in the way. Therefore I opted to install the heater in a housing underneath the car: less noise inside, more airflow throughout the car and no chance of harming it when loading stuff. The diesel pickup tube that comes with the set fits nicely through the nipple that is foreseen on top of the Td5 diesel pump. Some pics: Air intake in the rear of our Hardtop: Hot air outlet in the front of the cargo hold ( admittedly rather improvised) The machine fitted in the stainless Nakatanenga housing (link to relevant page in German), underneath the right hand side 'bench'. It's not used as meant to; the housing is upside down and the original holes have been closed up. It's not a perfect solution and I need to undo inlet, outlet and fuel line to open the box: I also put some rivnuts in the lid as drains for any water that enters the housing. I chose the right hand side because there's a dent in the left hand side of the car which I like to 'replace' by a sidelocker so there would be no room for the Planar anymore. Installing at the right is rather cumbersome: not to install the exhaust close to the car's fuel lines would prove to be the biggest challenge of the installation, and often during the process I wished that the exhaust tubing would be a bit longer. Fuel pump at the left of the car. You have to plug in the cables in the multiplug but mind: look for the 1 and 2 on the plug (barely visible) and check the installation manual what goes where. I missed that and had to cut the cable to correct polarity to the pump. A belgian club member also has a heater installed underneath the right hand bench and made an access door in the bench itself. IIRC the Eberspacher and Webasto will both go in error mode when there's no fuel, this can only be reset by a technician. It's not the case with the Planar which can be reset by the user. One day I should look for more insulated tubing. The air ducts are Webasto stuff. It's all compatible with Planar but mind that you order the right diameter, there are two that differ only slightly -something like 59 and 62mm diameter. I needed the latter. Edit: there are different kinds of tubing, and the brown cardboard coloured type is not suitable for external use. Hopes this helps, Joris
  10. Hi all, The basic question: any opinions on replacing rockers and/or rollers on a Td5 rocker shaft? They're not available as separate parts (wonder why), so it would be with donor parts. My rockers show two codes: nos 1 & 5 show the code V8294 E6 while the three middle ones are V8294 E1. Some context: yesterday while replacing the injector seals during car mechanics course, we discovered some wear on the camshaft lobe and rocker roller of the middle cylinder. We replaced the rocker shaft assembly by a 10p (A-type) rocker shaft which was at hand. The 15p-type (B-type) rocker shaft (part no MUI000040) supercedes the 10p-type (part no ERR7231), so we assumed that the reverse is possible. Later on I found mixed opinions on the interchangeability. In the English workshop manual only (so not in the Dutch version which I used at the time !) Land Rover states that the 15p version/B-Type can be used in the 10p, but warns that the correct one needs to be used. This worries me. Later on, an indie told me that he has rebuild some rocker shafts, so I'm now considering this an alternative to replacing the complete shaft. He also didn't replace the camshafts but for one which had 2mm deep scoring. Meanwhile the Defender seems to run fine, and has done approx 100 miles before getting home from the workshop, although I seem to feel some lightly more intense vibration that can also be attributed to doubts/paranoia. Regards, Joris
  11. Vogler

    Fitting Wolf Rims to my 2001 Defender TD5

    Oops, didn't think of the nuts
  12. Vogler

    Fitting Wolf Rims to my 2001 Defender TD5

    Congratulations ;-) You might want to check the part number: ANR4583 is tubeless (think the word tubeless is on them too) ANR5593 is tubed There are also other more exotic variants. There's some discussion on the need to fit longer studs, you'll see that there will be a bit of thread left on the nuts. Majority doesn't do it though. Clean the studs and mating surface of the hub with a steel brush before fitting a wheel so there's no grot or sand between the rim and the hub. A belgian club member here lost a wheel because of that. Greetings, Joris
  13. Vogler

    Defender First Aid Kit

    I once bookmarked this topic on aulro.com. Focus is on overlanding, so far too much for what you're asking but there are interesting items in the list nevertheless. It's also one of the few threads on the subject that isn't killed by the showstopper 'usually it's the thing you don't have with you that breaks, so why carry anything'. The list is compiled by a german, so you know it's thorough For our Td5 I carry a crankshaft positioning sensor in the spares. If that goes faulty then the ECU won't start the engine no matter what you try. Greetings, Joris
  14. Vogler

    Education resources

    There's LRTV on youtube of course, which helped me to grow confidence as a beginner nd is specific forandrovers. Good and clear explanation by a professional and well made. Also just recently started to appreciate Jafromobile on yt, who's mostly into tuning 16valve japanese engines. So mostly into perfectionism: porting, polishing etc but very interesting to see what contributes to optimisation. Shane Conley, an American teacher on motorcycle mechanics. Has some interesting videos on discipline in wrenching. Nice thread. Love AvE, bonkers as he is! Joris
  15. Vogler

    Door striker

    Have you already tried to move them slightly outwards? It's a typical issue when it gets colder: the door seals are a bit les supple making it harder to close the door. BTDT: installed X-trouser door catches only to discover that it's actually the position that counts. Probably might as well have continued with the original catches with worn-out plastic shroud. IIRC the shroud is to reduce wear on the parts. At the time I was suggested to oil the locks with lock-spray, although the manual says never to grease them. Lastly, the doors crack around the push button that you use to lock the door from the inside (sorry, don't know the proper name in english). I recently had them welded up and have the impression that it also contibutes to easier closing. Before the doors sounded a bit rattly. Hopes this helps, Greetings & Happy New Year, Joris
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