Jump to content

Vogler

Settled In
  • Posts

    100
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Vogler last won the day on February 22 2020

Vogler had the most liked content!

Reputation

54 Excellent

Profile Information

  • Location
    Brussels, Belgium

Recent Profile Visitors

715 profile views
  1. Ah, of course. I feel a bit stupid now...😨
  2. A bit off topic, but isn't there a nut missing on the second picture? It looks like there's nothing pulling the triangular hook down. I'd put a nyloc not on there. J
  3. I once asked an electronics engineer about contact cleaners, and he told me that a proper/professional job consists of several stages. The actual cleaning is a slightly aggressive process which should be followed by protection measures. I remember that he talked about three stages, but I don't remember the third one. I couldn't find any multiple step products either when I looked for them to give this post validity. I did however found an interesting blog post where the researcher (with chemical experience) states that the actual cleaning agent in a popular cleaner is most likely naphta, or lighter fluid. Also, its a process that can't be repeated endlessly.
  4. Just looked up a photo of our Sprint's spare OD. It mentions GKN Laycock J Type
  5. Sounds good! I have a partly dismantled Emerald Green Sprint patiently awaiting its restoration, but our 110 Td5 and too much other plans keep me from picking up the project. It rolled off the line between Christmas '73 and New Year, when I was two months old, so we share our birth year. It has an overdrive BTW. (Apologies for veering off-topic).
  6. What about the dark spot on the bulkhead, LH side under the windscreen? Photos are too lowres to clearly discern, but looks like a hole.
  7. Will do Ben. I'll have to get trough the quadrizillion photo's first. Got more pics than kilometers... I wasn't aware of that section BTW. J
  8. I'm just back from a long Iceland trip with a lot of miles on "bad" highland roads. I have a Hannibal roof rack with full length gutter bars, which I simply cut between the legs before my departure, so it kept the body less from flexing. Seems to have worked. Despite having driven considerably more than the previous trips with the same load, everything held up nicely. (Not mentioning the driver's door hinges and rear upper shock mount wearing out 🙄) J
  9. Promising! Very much looking forward to the next video, so subscribed too. J
  10. Oneandtwo, Western, thank you for pointing that out. I haven't had the opportunity to properly investigate on the car (currently extremely busy at work) and hadn't realised there are two layers. They aren't visible in the LR part diagrams, and even replacement bulkheads don't seem to have the inner layer. Rovers North seem to have the proper parts, see screenshots below taken from their website: Likely costly thing due to US import... One could possibly fabricate a double layered part combining a Defender and series footwell. Edit: YRM does offer inner panels too Cheers, J
  11. My front diff (Td5 MY06) went at 160k in the same way. The remaining bolts could be removed by hand too. I used it as an opportunity to install an ATB and used Allen bolts with Nordlock washers on the crown wheel. And loctite obviously! J
  12. Thanks both of you! Meanwhile I stumbled on a YT video which makes it look a bit less daunting.
  13. Hi all, I'm planning to replace the right hand footwell in our LHD Td5 Defender (MY06). A YRM footwell is at the ready. When I think of it, it seems to ask quite some preparation: remove the Safari snorkel, right wing, heater (and probably empty the cooling system). So a lot of things that involve hard-to-reach nuts and bolts and will undoubtedly cost a lot more time than expected. Any useful hints? Things that should be tackled while I'm at it? Greetings, Joris
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy