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Everything posted by Vogler

  1. You will also have to undo the bracket that holds the brake line in place, which means undoing bolts of the top swivel bearing. These are open holes, so anything which falls into them ends up in the swivel grease/oil, clean well before you undo them. When you undo these bolts, the tension on the swivel bearings is undone which means that the hub will have a lot of play and that swivel grease will leak from the bottom of the ball. If you have a second pair of hands, ask them to pull the hub outward, so you keep the large swivel oil seal tightened to the ball. Best to have some one shot available since you might need to top up. IIRC correctly, the 12 point bolts are size 14. I invested in a folding ratchet spanner which saved a lot of time. The bolts look flanged, but it actually is a ring. I suggest having available some 12-point replacement bolts for the brake calipers and the stub axle (different size), a pair of stub axle oil seals (the ones which the drive shaft goes through) and one shot grease. While you're at it, install a magnetic drain plug in the diff housing, this is the same as in the LT230, or order extra strong ones at Nigel's. Good luck, Joris.
  2. Western, you probably didn't get the complete link <- this should do it It's the 3rd edition, of 2000, Publication Part No. LRL 0081ENG, where it is written in capitals and in colour not to use a crush tube. I have recently read or heard mention on one of the Land Rover related YouTube channels that Ashcroft use collapsible tubes in all their LT230 rebuilds. Greetings, Joris
  3. Coulnd't agree more. Three front crown wheel bolts of our 110 broke and chipped some teeth. The drained oil showed nothing but literally one tiny single flint, despite the presence of plenty of shrapnel in there. With magnetic plugs I wouldn't have suspected and disassembled the LT230. Out of curiosity: who supplies these? Amazing that all teeth survived. Have you had the opportunity to check the condition of the intermediate shaft holes yet? Greetings Joris
  4. Thanks for confirming this Dave! Based on the fact that you prefer machining the diff, I presume that the thinner crown wheel is not the best choice. Yesterday I was about to order your 4-pin diff but I think it's better to see how deliveries fare in the CoVid panic that has been soaring since... Anyway - that gives me some more time to contemplate between an ATB or an open diff. Unfortunately I won't be able to afford uprated CV's at the same time and I have the impression that an ATB with standard CV's poses more risk of breakage than an open diff. Joris
  5. I'm currently facing the same questions regarding the front diff, only a couple of weeks after having contributed to this topic. First thought it was the LT230, but it turned out to be the front crown wheel bolts that had gotten loose and broken off, so I'm currently rebuilding the transfer case and the front diff ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€ A local club member told me that a specific crown wheel allows fitting a P38 4-pin in the front. He's knowledgeable, likes offroading and has worked for LR, so I got confused since it is being told everywhere that it's not possible without machining the diff. Then I found Ashcroft saying the same on this very forum. Thought it's worth mentioning since I haven't found it anywhere else, I presume that this crown wheel is too thin, although it was used in the early 90 V8. Also: the man quoted above advises to use Loctite 270 and Allen bolts (12.9) for the crown wheel. J
  6. Thank you, I'm quite surprised by the results myself TBH.... I spent some time looking into that today, it might be possible. The site where I keep my photos can enable visitors to order quality prints through a UK company. Never looked into it before, I should do some more research before setting this up. If people are interested I can look further into it. The images are fairly hi-res and prints up to 30" would still look OK, the water marks wouldn't end up on the hardcopies of course. The larger part of today was spent on further tweaking the photos and making some variants, I'm quite stoked with these ๐Ÿ˜ƒ and a slower gif ๐Ÿ˜‰ Greetings, Joris
  7. And the whole contraption with the input and intermediate gears: J
  8. Here's the update on the layered image. This time I also included the bearings: Greetings, Joris
  9. Good that you like it. The R sure looks different, thanks for posting that photo! It seems to have considerably larger holes to let oil into the diff carrier. Mads, it didn't look as sparkly when I opened the casing, it was more like the land of Mordor covered in black sticky oil. The last year I did seem to notice more heat coming from the gearbox tunnel. I also made a gif of the diff gear, with an Ashcroft cross pin. Stupidly I forgot to include the copper shims in the pics. The shims were completely gone when I disassembled the transfer box. One can see the circular scratches that the satellite gears made due to the absence of shims. Greetings, Joris
  10. Hi all, I'm currently rebuilding the LT230T 43D of our Td5 Defender after an issue in the transmission which eventually turned out to be in the front axle. Fortunately I enjoy doing this - I've always wanted to do a gearbox and I can honestly say that it is the best way to learn how it works and how to treat it. I also took the opportunity to make some photographs. Initially because the thing looks very nice - it's almost a pity to have to hide it in the casing - but I also realised that I have never seen comparable images. I intended to post these images later because some things should still be improved, but since a member is currently experiencing issues with his CDL, I figured that I already should post what I have. Presumably a lot of forum members know how it works, but for the others I'll try to explain a bit. Feel free to correct or add. Please mind that I have invested quite some effort in making these - so respect my copyright. This is the complete centre differential with shifting forks and output shafts: Here the forks are removed: and now the output shafts too: The large cylindrical volume is the diff carrier which houses the differential gears. The two large gears are the high gear (smaller) and low gear (larger). They each freely rotate on the shaft and as long as the main gearbox is in gear they're driven continuously by the input shaft through the intermediate gears which are not shown. The set of small teeth with large distance between them - dog teeth - are each part of the large sprocket: In between the dog teeth one can see a more finely splined part with a large grooved ring around it - the high/low gear selector ring. The splined part is fixed to the differential housing, and by shifting the selector ring over the dog teeth of one of the gears, that gear will take the diff housing along in its rotation. In these pictures the ring is between the two large sprockets, so the LT230 is in neutral. If the R380/LT77 would be in gear with the engine running, only the two gears would rotate - the diff housing wouldn't. In the following pictures the assembly is positioned the other way round - left and right are switched (one of the reasons I want to remake some of the images). Half of the diff housing is removed, one can see the actual differential. On the left is now a smaller ring over the splined end of the diff carrier. That's the diff lock selector. Again, you see a set of dog teeth, this time they are part of the output shaft (you can see the shafts below). The shafts can rotate freely, so the small differential gears can do their work in compensating any differences in rotation of both axles. So diff lock is off. Here the diff lock selector has moved over the dog teeth. The shaft is now connected to the diff housing. None of the parts can move or rotate in relation to one another - everything is connected as if it is one piece, so diff lock is on: These are just the output shafts and diff gears. You can see the dog teeth on the left. The spiral at the right drives the speedo cable. And here they are relative to the whole assembly (although the gears should be meshing, the main reason why I want to remake the series). Hope you enjoy it and that it can help some people. Greetings, Joris
  11. First time I heard/read that argument. Good point! Joris
  12. It turned out that the ATB's I started the topic quoted above about, were heavily abused. Drivers with binary throttle behaviour, very aggressive 33" tyres, and broken halfshafts changed in muddy conditions. The types that didn't feel they had been properly offroading when nothing was broken. Also I have never used these ATB's, the seller agreed to take them back. So I don't think my post says anything about their quality. I have installed a new one which hasn't given me any issues since. Approx 10k miles, some on heavy corrugations where they certainly had added value. Grip improved tremendously. ATB's have domed spring washers in the centre which might suffer from fatigue and break, at the time Ashcroft offered to send me new ones for free. I can't remember finding anything bronze in the Ahcroft ATB's. You can see all its parts in my post mentioned above. Joris
  13. A while ago I contemplated upgrading the front diff. I mostly remember from my research that if you upgrade to an ATB or a locker, then you should also upgrade the CV joints and shafts. IIRC it was Hybrid_from_Hell / Nige telling it either here or in one of his Youtube videos. Personally - but I'm far from an expert - I think that putting an open 4-pin diff (so 2 shafts) would be the sanest choice as far as budget is concerned: stronger than the standard LR 2-pin, but not increasing stress on the CV's. Ashcroft make them, and there's also a LR variant which is quite scarce if I'm not mistaken. I hope others chime in to correct if necessary. Hope this helps. Joris
  14. I just realised that I never updated this... The issue came up again during our trip through Iceland. The new bracket held up, but the rivets broke. Same on the other side where the original rivets were broken too. So we made a return trip to Reykjavik (300 miles) to buy a hand drill and riveting tool since I expected quite some corrugations. I also put bolts through factory made holes in the inner gutter, approx. 10cm from the corners. It held up since. I guess the roof load was the cause (RTT and a large awning). I can't think of anything else. Joris
  15. Maverik, would you mind explaining this a bit further?
  16. @Peaklander I'll keep it short not to stray off topic (or at least try...). Here's an overview of the earliest and latest opening dates of mountain roads on the website of the Vegagardin. During a previous trip we had to change plans because several roads were still closed half of July. (Roads can also be closed due to volcanic activity, in 2015 the F910 was closed just South of Askja because of toxic gasses emited by Barฤ‘arbunga) Mid-August is considered as the end of the high season. After the first week of September the rangers start to prepare the highland campsites for winter. If you go early, than you can take advantage of the long daylight. On the other hand, rivers and fords tend to be lower the later you go. Since a couple of years there's a RoRo ferry which transports cars (so without passengers, you'll have to fly) from Rotterdam (Netherlands) to the southwest within bus range from from Keflavik/Reykjavik. This might save you a week of travel time compared with the Denmark ferry. Joris
  17. Probably my favourite from last year's trip to Iceland: The day is approaching its end, and the hills in the far distance catch the red of the setting sun. It was so incredibly silent, I literally had to search for a sound - only thing I could hear was my own body and the ticking of the Td5 cooling down... sigh... Joris
  18. Made a new bracket today and was quite relieved to see that it fitted through the roof channel. During a first attempt it rotated and almost got lodged in the curve. In the second attempt I used two pieces of string to guide it and it was in before I knew it. I'm quite relieved! Too much panic for what turned out to be a simple problem... Cheers, Joris
  19. I presume that the cause is the weight of the roof rack and vibrations. The sidewalls have caved in just a bit between the windows (the side windows nudge towards one another veeeerryyy slightly) and that probably pushes the corners upwards. A member of the belgian forum had an issue after his travels to Africa, probably it was just the screw that fell out (he gave no feedback) and it got worse, resulting in longitudinal cracks: I got the pieces of the broken bracket out today: After some delibration with a friend, I'll probably make a new bracket of some plain, thicker L-shaped aluminium. A block might be too strong and result in cracks elsewhere. Hopefully it will fit through the roof channel... Fingers crossed. As to what the bracket or screw actually hold: the whole construction in that corner seems a bit odd. I was amazed to see that the part in red is only fixed to the upper channel, and nowhere to the skin, the frame above the door or the broken bracket. Actually one can wiggle the curved part a bit. So it seems like the whole corner setup is made to move and flex. But it's no news that the defender roof is quite weak... Cheers, Joris
  20. Had the opportunity today to go look at an unmounted roof, which helped a lot. The solution looks to be a lot simpler that I anticipated. Clearly the broken bracket is captive in the roof arch, and rivetted to the gutter. I guess first step will be drilling the rivets and try to take out the bracket through the hole higher up in the arch. Given the fact that the bracket broke, I think it's a better idea to try and make a block and bolt it to the gutter and arch through the existing riv Greetings, Joris
  21. Thanks Gazzar, makes sense. I'll make an attempt to get more in an image tomorrow, but it's probably more interesting to know what's further up front, and behind the curved part of the windscreen, to see if there's access to slide in a backplate or a new part. With a bit of luck I'll be able to check an unmounted roof one of the following days, that will be even better than pics. Cheers, Joris
  22. Yes, that's it. It looks to me like that should be one piece and that it holds roof and frame together
  23. Haha! Thanks for taking interest in my post! I made some more after posting, and I've added some pointers to what one sees: They also show the crack a bit clearer. It looks like an angled connecting piece that is riveted to the frame, and is hidden inside a channel. The PZ3 headed screw that fixes it to the windscreen frame goes though the hole at the right. Any idea if this piece is boxed in during construction, or if it would be possible to fit a new piece or a connecting block when the roof is off? Cheers, Joris
  24. Hi all, The roof of our 110 creaked a bit the last few weeks, and tightening the screw in the front left corner didn't help this time. So removed the lining to take a look... The fixing point turns out to have cracked ๐Ÿ˜• Presumably the permanent presence of a roof rack with RTT and a large awning attributed to the problem. I'm a bit at loss about how to solve this.... We'll be leaving for Iceland in a couple of weeks, so the 110 will have to cope with long stretches of bad roads an corrugations. Any ideas or suggestions? Greetings, Joris
  25. Ah, pitty. Did you see the other links further down in the topic too? Greetings, Joris (Sorry for the basic 'J' earlier today).
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