bluespanner

Couldnt you bolt the carbs to the 3.9?

its a damn good van and was dirt cheap. The problem is i only passed my test last year and can only drive upto 3 and a half tonners. Also, isnt it plating more expensive than moting?

Not sure where to put this so here we are. I'v just bought a van, an Iveco 49.10 to be pricise, and it needs to be plated. Seeing as I only use it for my furniture business and carting Land Rover **** around, could I downrate it to 3500 and thus be eligible for a) a class 7 MOT test and B) actually be able to drive the thing legally? someone must know, Cheers, Roly

Last time my series 3 did this i attached the flange to my tractor and drew away. Soon had the bugger out i tells ya!

Whats the point of a pre mot check? Just send it then do the jobs it fails on.

I have a Snap-On stud extractor kit with the left hand bits. I rarely have to use the extractors, as i think the heat of the drill loosens it then winds it out by itself. Handy tools.

Try one of those spinner things like you get on tractors and forklifts, it makes the movement so much easier. Works on my non PAS series trialler.

Head to head, i'd say range rover. It has more power, and the softer suspension floats over undulations that would be shaking you to death in the series. I'v driven sections with ease in my friends range rover, that I backed off on in my 2A because it sounded like it was going to shake its self to bits! Series wins in some places due to shorter overhangs and shorter wheelbase, so you dont get bellied as much. Although a rangie on 235/85s will cross bumps suprisingly.

i removed a 3 notch but that was with a different block and pistons. I used a feeler gague and steel rule to measure protrusion. I think you guys are right, i should use the same as what came off.

Smartarse Walfy!

I have piston protrusion of 0.53mm. Where it gets weird is that the head is an unknown entity to me, other than I know it has been skimmed. how many times i do not know.

That is the question! Hehe

What affect would using the thicker gasket have on compression ratios? Hmm I ommited to think about the head skim. And it has been. Hmm.

I measured my piston protrusion with feeler gagues today and it is 0.53mm. According to haynes, this means I need a 1 notch gasket, ie the thinnest. Are these common? And what is the consequences of using too thin a gasket? Surely the valve to piston tolerance arent that tight, seeing as the difference between a 1 and a 3 notch gasket is .2 mm? Cheers, Roly

130 clutch is supposedly meatier. Stands to reason dont it when you think about 130s intended use. 55 quid plus the dreaded from paddocks so its more expensive.

Aye, that be them! Top end eh... bit out of place in a bottom end kit.

No, those are the T shaped ones that go on main bearing cap 5. The ones im on about are about like half a 2p piece and rubber.

In my bottom end seal and gasket kit, there are 2 little rubber half moon things... Where on earth do these go? I never noticed any when stripping my 200tdi. Cheers Roland

I'm in the process of rebuilding a 200tdi with ground crank and honed bores. I'm using Britpart (i know, i know) big end shells and mains, and pistons, and seal/gasket kits. I was dubious about buying them, but once i had examined them against genuine, i decided they were pretty much the same so bought britpart. The pistons are particularly nice. I'm going to be using a 130 clutch, And with headgaskets, use the thinnest one you can do after measuring piston protrusion. It makes a difference to compression ratios, which leaves you down on power if you fit too thick a gasket.

I bought a second hand Mac topbox (off Snap-On, as it happens) which I am very pleased with. It has ball bearings and is about 6" deeper than the normal top boxes.

Thanks Les. Yes, its the timing belt sprocket i am trying to remove. I tried to make a puller, but my M5 (not M6, out of interest) bar just sheared. I think im going to have to get it hot and try again.

I need to get the cambelt pulley off the crank of my 200Tdi. I'v tried levering with screwdrivers but that didnt work... and there isnt room to get my puller behind it. Any ideas folks? Cheers

Hi everyone, im Roland and im new to the forum. Iv been on LRO for a while but this place looks a bit faster moving! I currently have 4 Landrovers, 2 88" coilers, a series 2 and an old chassis with a tube cage welded on, for fetching the cows up. I was recently given a 200tdi engine, which was low on compression on 1 cylinder. I took off the head and sump, and knocked the pistons out. It seemd that piston 3 had broken the upper ring, which picked up and wore the bore approx 1mm! So I priced up a rebore and liner, but then came across another block on ebay. This one has no bore wear, you can still see the hone marks! Only think is, is theres a chip at the bottom of a bore where a conrod let go. I'l polish this up though, and rebuild it with bits off the other engine. Meanwhile, i went offroading in the 2A, (Sherpa 2.5, rangie axles, parabolics, 265 Insa turbos) and blew the front diff. I rebuilt this with a diff out of the back of my mates 90 hehe. Anyway thats a summary of whats going on in my shed at the moment! So hi, i look forward to contributing and talking to you guys Roll.