bluespanner

There was nothing at either end of either yesterday. No, no pics. They have laid stones at the foot of each step, there are still steps but I'd say they were 5-6 inches at most. The quality of work is excellent, imagine a stone wall on its side, with all the pieces chosen so that they interlock.

Well should there not be a sign up at least?

Just got home from a lovely afternoon map reading and discovering a few new (to me) green lanes to the east of Buxton. We then went up country a little and did chinley steps, then chapel gate. What a revelation! Somebody has made a lovely job improving both. The work on chinley steps look to be very recent, with the digger still parked up at the top. They have repaired all the damage caused by people bypassing the steps and also made the steps less sharp, which should mean people have no need to go round. Well done to whoever was involved.

NATO hitch, if all you ever intend to pull is a rope. Keep it oiled though.

Not even a 3 1/2 inch grinder with a 1mm disc in?

You could machine grooves and put a circlip either side of the flange?

I welded the flanges on a friends land rover with an Oxford stick welder. That was ten years ago and it's still fine, and fetches cows most days.

Des anyone know if the output shaft of a 5 speed box is adequate to bolt a flange to, then hang a prop off? How much support does the output shaft have internally? I see that the genuine RWD gearboxes have a different rear housing. Any thoughts? The idea that's pinballing round my brain at the moment is to repower a mk5 transit with an engine and box that doesn't eat fuel pumps, injectors, flywheels, starters, oil pumps, etc etc etc.

Tip: don't hang about, move quickly and the pool won't have chance to fall out and go down your sleeve.

I used to run 7.50 Michelin Xcl. Now running Goodyear g90s on the back and a pair of Olympic steel treks on the front. On LWB rims. I think series just look right on 7.50s.

Pretty much although a disco rad is an inch deeper.

It'd look nicer with a series rad and no intercooler.

Thin them down with a sander?

Vtech are good. Very comfy. I use the v12 dealer boots for work

Haha No worries, I spend most of my time in a state of brain-mush. Glad we worked it out in the end! Is there any power advantage to be had by advancing the pump a degree or two? Mine is set, as I'm sure most people's engines are, by the locking pins.

This is twisting my melon. Lets assume we are adjusting it by locking the pump and then moving the crank. If you go from 22' to 24' btdc, you have moved the crank anticlockwise, ie two degrees further before tdc. Isn't that the same as moving the pump spindle clockwise?

Sort of. Your pump doesn't have slotted mounting holes, you won't turn it. Instead as Ash says, the pulley is adjustable on the hub. It has the same affect.

Surely turning the pump spindle clockwise without moving the crank will advance not retard?

An interesting point to note- my friends international tractor puller is set to start injecting at 40 degrees btdc. She doesn't knock at idle.

Or a nice 27mm socket that's exactly the right depth to not rub the paint off your wheels when you gun nuts on and off?

What about a plug in box of tricks to provide 24v to the blower motor of a defender?

What about a system to make leaf springs super flexy? Like the gon2far people that vanished.

So what is the preferred method of 6x6ness, if not a double pinion diff in axle 1?

How would that work on a car with wheel bolts?

He was and still is a wolf race dealer. No I totally agree, I wouldn't want to be on the same bit of road as a car with its wheels held on by 3.5 turns. But that's what he said and it stuck in my mind.