Peaklander

I can't quite tell from the drawing but it looks as though you have the roof gables extended a little away from the gable-end walls. I like this, especially over a doorway. It's surprising how much extra shelter it provides (as long as the rain isn't driving towards the gable). I have this on my house and garage, extending a good 300mm. You do therefore have a soffit to fit and maintain but I think it look better and as I said, weatherwise it works too.

😀 mine didn’t recognise lightly! It really needed some force with a hi lift. I almost gave up.

I went for Richards in late 2017 because at that moment Marsland stopped supplying direct and began to go through Britpart. All the outlets have to buy through them too. The prices jumped. It’s true that their Defender chassis are supplied by GKN. They used to make Series chassis on site and I bought mine from them, driving to pick it up as they are very local. That stopped a good while ago. The Richards chassis (300Tdi on 110) was fine except that I had a @&£&) of a job getting the crossmember in. I mean it was nearly impossible.

Wow, what a start to the day I've had reading the method and looking at those photos. Amazing work!

My wife’s uncle is over there this morning. He was with 47 Commando RM pushing through in advance behind the enemy line to Port en Bessin. We will remember them.

Looking at my 97MY diagram isn't any help as the SR wire is for Transmission Oil temperature warning and WP is for fuel pump. So I can safely say that they aren't going to be the same on your 200TDi loom. I do have an old 300TDi drawing but that is stored as a picture so it can't be so easily searched.

I can’t see my electrical drawing as away from home today. I would normally do a search of the pdf for the wire colours and see what they do that way. My 300TDi has a heated rear screen on the third relay from right. The colour for that is white black I think. There’s only five relays there in total though: Starter/ Headlamps / HRW / wipe and flash. So that’s not very helpful.

Dave, the relay bases from Vehicle Wiring Products that are for standard 40A switching relays do interlock with the yellow bases that are down there at the fusebox. They also have a mounting tab with hole and I used this too at one end of that row. (I fitted three additional ones I think). The headlamp upgrade that I did used 70A relays. These have big blades ~9mm I think rather than the ~6mm and I think the relays and bases are physically bigger. They do interlock but I don't know if they will fit down at the fuses. I think this is the base I used. Mine are in the engine bay and appear to be holding up well (over four years now), with dumdum and other sealing.

@mmgemini posted a how-to-do-it thread in here years ago I'm sure. This relay-switches the loads. I copied it exactly and shorted out the dim/dip relay. It suggests fuses and relays for dip and main under the bonnet on the side of the n/s wing.

The part number I quoted is for the front of the vehicle. The rear light harness is AMR4990. That has a plug to connect with the front and then a wire to the rear door switch and the connections to the lamp unit in the roof. The route is along the roof edge on right side front to back.

Last year I bought a couple from this guy https://www.balljointboots.co.uk

Ah yes a fair point. If they are not fitted then they can't be leaking!

Same for me. I thought it was the seams, chasing leaks there, only to discover it was the alpine window seals.

Me too, in fact I was on it the other day and was happy to see it had been updated fairly recently.

Have a look for AMR5068 harness.