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Peaklander last won the day on February 5 2020

Peaklander had the most liked content!

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About Peaklander

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Peak District, Derbyshire, UK

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  • Interests
    Previous 1975 88" re-build on galv. Completed and sold :-(

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  1. Glad it's in and working Ralph. The heater box is a tidy option and you will get used to the raised cubby position. It's hard to tell whether it's as noisy as mine is at start-up but the outside sound level doesn't seem too bad at all in those videos.Enjoy the warmth!
  2. I don't mind the pump noise. It is just a ticking and the frequency depends on the rate at which the burner is running. The standard fix is a rubber mount in a clamp, as in my photo. When the heater is on full fire the noise of the pump disappears!
  3. Yes It has an after-market one on. I have been moaning about it for some time but haven't yet tried any other solution such as a genuine exhaust silencer or one on the inlet. I believe that these newer D2 heaters (at least) always go onto full flame at start-up for at least a minimum run time, in order to ensure that carbon build-up is minimised. I am guilty of spreading that rumour as I don't definitively know that this is correct. The noise is only an issue on the outside of the vehicle; that's what I mean about spoiling the tranquility. If its windy it's no problem but in a quiet
  4. I'll be interested to compare the noise of your heater with mine. We may need to share videos. I can't get used to the jet engine roar of the burner during the start-up / warm-up phase. It makes a tranquil early morning a little less tranquil. However heat is better than cold!
  5. I lifted my body to swap the chassis. I used the experience of @western above but eventually decided on a scaffold. The details are on page 3 of my thread here. The main lift points were either side of the bulkhead, a scaffold pole under the tub just forward of the rear wheels and at the rear door (just in case). I think I went a bit overboard with the scaffold but I really didn't know what to expect and also how long it would be before the new chassis went back underneath.
  6. I recently claimed on my Ctek guarantee. The charger has a 'mode' button which you use at switch-on, to cycle through the battery type (AGM or normal), car or motor bike (assume thats 12/6V) and recondition or not. It hardly ever got pressed and then when I did need it to change from AGM, it took loads of fiddling to get it to change over. I couldn't open the case without probably breaking it so I looked for my receipt. Fortunately I keep the eBay purchase emails and it was just a few weeks inside the 5 year guarantee. The eBay website doesn't offer you the transactions older then a coupl
  7. This is the comparison between the old and new cam chains. Not only is the chain about a whole link longer (around the loop), it has some very loose pins but not all of them are loose. It's a little strange tbh as I would have assumed they all wear in the same way. This is a 'DID' brand chain which I think is original equipment but the cam guides have certainly been changed since the car was built (2008) as the die stamps are 2013 and 2014. I can only assume that the chain was also changed then but that implies that the chain has stretched in about six years. The much shorter oil pum
  8. It’s only been in our family for a few weeks. I said it would be a good bet as I have confidence in Hondas but still a gamble. I have got as far as removing the timing case (so a long way) and can now see the cam chain and associated parts. Some of the (many) fixings to be removed have been very difficult so say the least but they are off! Currently trying to see what's actually wrong. The tensioner appears to jump back to ‘no tension’ as the crank is turned. Don’t know how much to post as this isn’t really the right forum 😁 Edit: here goes... chain noise in running e
  9. Happy Christmas to all forum members and your nearest and dearest. It’s been a nasty year but we are getting the vaccine across the peoples and I hope that makes it a safer year in 2021. Thanks for all your help this year, particularly with my engine top half rebuild in January. I hope @Arjan is able to get his 90 roof in 2021, one way or another ( but it’s happy where it is). 🎄🎅❄️
  10. This is the suspected cam chain or oil pump chain... link
  11. Its a 58 plate (262K miles). Bought as a budget car 😀. They are identical injectors with the same part number but the reconditioned Bosch ones are provided with the codes, each one has a tag. Bosch refer to them as IMA codes.
  12. Thanks guys. That makes me feel better. These fancy injectors are way outside my knowledge. The job so far has been a pig to do. The cam cover won't come off without the injectors out. There's no wiggle room because of the shape - they can only come up. Two loosened with the engine running and the clamps slackned but two were stuck. I approached ten local-ish garages and one had a slide hammer and was willing to lend it and they popped up with very little effort. The crank pulley bolt needed to be cracked using the starter and a breaker bar. I broke the first bar at the knuckle with muscl
  13. Apologies that this isn't LR related but my question is about Bosch common rail diesel injectors, fitted to a Honda 2.2 CDTi engine. I am replacing them as part of a cam chain and oil chain overhaul. The question is about coding. Whilst I have a cheapo code reader, I don't have the HDS software but hope I can get the codes written at a local garage. I believe that the codes are used to compensate for manufacturing tolerances and thus used to inform the ECU of the specific operating characteristics of a particular injector. From that I'm hoping that by not updating the codes until the
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