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Peaklander last won the day on February 5 2020

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About Peaklander

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    Old Hand

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    Peak District, Derbyshire, UK

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    Previous 1975 88" re-build on galv. Completed and sold :-(

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  1. I might add, after reading that document (using google translate), that the author isn't impressed with the unit. When switched to the AC feed, the 12V output is either at AC, "for lights etc." or a not very well rectified DC which isn't smooth enough for some electronics. That AC for the lights won't be useful for any led lamps. Maybe swapping in a good 12V power supply would be a better option.
  2. It allows for direct connection of 12V from a battery to the load. When hooked up to mains and switched on, it provides a 12VDC source and the relays swap over to connect the load to it rather than the Aux battery.
  3. They are relays without covers. The primary side (low current) is the coil that you can see in each. At the front left corner as shown, you can see the switched contacts that carry the secondary circuit (probably higher current) and they will go through the fuses. The relays should at least 'click' when they are energised (through the coils). That click will move the contact across the tiny air gap. You should be able to trace the circuit from those contacts to see where it comes from and goes. Edit: just mind your fingers on the 240VAC stuff
  4. Ian, I fitted a VDO oil pressure gauge to my 300 TDi and now I’m used to reading it, I’m not sure whether or not it will prove to be useful. At cold start it is up near 3.5-4Bar. When coolant reads normal but not working hard then the pressure is around 2 Bar. If working (high speed or hills) then its drops to just over 1 Bar. I’m not really sure when or if it will actually ‘tell’ me anything that warrants an investigation. Somehow I’m happy to watch it though. 🧐
  5. Although I haven’t used the Teflon ones myself, if you look around with a few searches, you will see that they seem to do very well.
  6. Yes 'buzzing' is checking for continuity. Checking from one end of a cable to the other is going to read almost 0 Ohms and a meter selected to give an audible indication when 'continuity' is present saves glancing at the display. If you don't find the correct other end then the meter will read very high (M ohm).
  7. In the wiring diagram you can see that the white/red from ignition switch to coil of starter relay (R102) isn't fused except back at the 60A Link2 in the engine bay main feed. I presume that this is sufficient because, as I said earlier, this cable is only live for as long as you hold the key at the crank position. On the contact side of the relay, again the +12V is fed from Link2 and the brown/red cable that goes to the black box / spider isn't fused. Again, it's only live for a second or two. Personally I think a further fuse is unnecessary. You can also see that the connections in
  8. Honing puts the swirls back on the polished bores and these then retain lubrication. I had mine honed in-situ and the job was done in about 45 mins by a mobile service. It cost £60-80 can't remember exactly. I had lots of advice from people on here as I had no idea what was needed! Edit: this is my 300TDi so the bores face upwards. I guess yours is a little more challenging. 😀
  9. I’ve just replaced the cam chain on a Honda CR-V. They stretch over time and then either rattle and become so noisy that you can’t ignore, or the timing moves enough to throw an error code. I imagine there’s a stretch specification limit but having got that far you’d just replace anyway wouldn’t you. 🙂
  10. Simpler would be to fit an in-line fuse just behind the ignition switch but don't forget that the cable is only live for the time it takes to crank and start. Run it in a bit of conduit and it will be safe from chaffing. The solenoid on the FIP will possibly also have been 'bodged', to be energised with the key in the IGN position (white wire has +12V). Do you know where that cable runs?
  11. On my 1996 300Tdi as you look at the three relays from the front, the starter relay is the one on the right. The challenge in re-instating the correct wiring is that you need to be sure that the alarm (the 10AS green box) is un-arming correctly on the key fob. This needs the doors and bonnet to be closed and registering that back at the 10AS. If you can set and reset it then that's a start. Next though is the black box in the front of the battery box. It is this unit that is actually the immobiliser. As I said up the thread somewhere, coil of the starter relay is energised by the key at c
  12. Sorry what I originally wrote in this post is rubbish so I have deleted it. I have just re-read your last post and understand what you are saying. The thick red appears to be connected to the starter solenoid but for it to work it would need to replace or piggy-back onto the crank terminal (red/white wire).
  13. If your wiring is un-molested, then the feed to the starter solenoid isn't directly from the ignition switch or starter relay. The red/white wire goes to the starter relay coil but the other connection to the coil is taken from the alarm unit (the green box that you mentioned). So that box allows the relay to operate if the alarm conditions correct. The switched contact in that relay is then taken to the immobiliser 'spider' which is in the battery box. This is the 'final check' which provides the starter motor output and the feed to the fuel solenoid. The white cable on the ignition
  14. The Bosch injectors I have look like they are alphanumeric codes with possibly the whole range of letters and numbers in use. Also they are repeated, such as BTBB8N so that would possibly be a maximum (26+10)6 combinations. It's probably much simpler but I wonder how many parameters are defined by those codes?
  15. No that’s not it. The one I’m referring to a small cable earth point. I posted a picture in another thread some time ago just not sure when or where.
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