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Peaklander last won the day on February 5

Peaklander had the most liked content!

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About Peaklander

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Peak District, Derbyshire, UK

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  • Interests
    Previous 1975 88" re-build on galv. Completed and sold :-(

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  1. Yes I agree about it being a stretch when reaching for the lever. I have made it even harder, as I have lifted my cubby in order to fit a heater in a box under it.
  2. I have one behind my 110 300TDi, fitted with the extended sump. Bought secondhand from a well respected member on here, it's been in use for about 18 months. I found that I easily ran out of revs with it selected and in 5th, on say a motorway incline. At slower speeds there were times when I would normally be in 4th but would need to drop a gear if I left the Roamerdrive engaged. It kind of defeated the object! However since my partial engine rebuild (new rings, cylinders honed and attention to all boost related pipes), there has been an improvement. I've only done a little more than 1,000 miles since then due to Covid but now I can stay in 5th + OD for extended miles on the motorway and easily sit at 70 mph. At lower speeds I have flexibility of power and can 'pull" without necessarily dropping a gear. Pulling away from standstill is much nicer as I don't need that early change from 1st to 2nd when only halfway across the traffic lights. There are no problems except that the linkage kept vibrating loose at one end and this lengthened the rod and prevented full engagement. That was cured with thread-lock. However, I am noticing a noise with the Roamerdrive engaged, like I can hear the gears. It's certainly possible to tell whether it's in or out just by listening. So I would be interested of others' experiences before and after re-builds. All in all though, it now seems to be a good addition and it is the better engine performance that has sorted that.
  3. So that one has a diaphragm/valve and a spring but it’s not accessible to check or repair. How would you know that a replacement has the same construction?
  4. In spite of what I said above, I did buy a petrol engine chainsaw in the USA. Walked into Kmart and bought it and a holdall type bag for it. Then checked it in at the airport desk when I came home. Didn’t think about it really. It was a fair few years ago.
  5. If the goods are declared such with their correct value then you will pay duty and VAT. You can’t avoid this as they are held automatically, you are informed and asked to pay. The Post Office held my purchase sent out to the UK by Australia Post. To avoid having to pay means to falsely declare and as said above, that’s not legal. It’s like everything in life. You make a choice. Speeding, using a mobile when driving, paying cash when you know that the seller should be recovering VAT. It goes on and on. I know someone who proudly states how he managed to avoid paying much personal tax, and VAT through his working life but now happily draws his State pension ( not me I hasten to add). So ‘at the end of the day’ it’s up to you.
  6. Doesn’t an exhaust valve need to seal just as well as the inlet for good compression?
  7. I read this news elsewhere. In that article it was said that the company making the London black cabs also lost a similar appeal at some point in the past. Nestlé did too, for the four finger Kit Kat.
  8. I know that you said this ^^^ but then you said this: and you also said this I suggest these steps: 1. Check the switch off the vehicle, for continuity from the terminal to the case, showing that it is working with no oil pressure 2. Check the block for continuity to the battery -ve. using that long piece of wire you used to confirm that the dash warning lamp works. 3. Then screw the pressure switch into the block and repeat the continuity test with that same wire, this time between the switch terminal and the battery -ve 4. Finally plug in the wire to the sender and turn on the IGN and the warning light should come on. You don't need any oil or to crank the engine, to at least get this far.
  9. Ah - so check continuity between block and battery -ve post using that piece of wire to get you all the way there.
  10. Only one of three things might have gone wrong then. You haven't pushed the spade onto the switch (very very unlikely) or you have a duff switch (also seems unlikely as you tested it for continuity before fitting). The third is that you have no continuity between the body of the switch and the negative (0volts) at the battery. Is your engine block earthed? Can you use your multimeter to measure the Ohms between the body of the switch and the engine block and then the engine to the battery 0V? They should be zero or very low.
  11. Try the diagrams on here too, this is for the door felts etc. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-chassis/doors/window-regulator-assembly-rear-side-door_52774
  12. If the 3.7V is there with the switch connected then you might have a bad earth and that might be at the switch thread. If you used PTFE on the threads it could be too thick.
  13. The warning light has +12v ignition controlled connected at one side of it and the other side goes to 0v through the pressure switch normally closed contact and the light is on. When the pressure rises, the switch opens and the warning light goes out. With the wire disconnected at the switch, you are measuring some volts because your test meter is acting like the switch and providing a path to earth for a very small amount of current (and it only needs this small amount to display a voltage). It isn’t enough to light the warning lamp though. If it did, the lamp would drop all the 12 volts and you wouldn’t measure anything. So just connect the wire, check that the lamp is on with the ignition and then start-up and it will go out.
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