Peaklander

You really are an international man of mystery.

The fact that at all three speeds and inlet temps the outlet temp is pretty much the same, suggests, I think, that the intercooler you have can extract all that heat and more besides.

My final decision was based on advice from @Retroanaconda who said, it's negligible but if it tilts, then swap them. It seems to be negligible - I can't see the difference. Edit: 78Kg in case anyone's wondering 😀

I have a rhd vehicle and the white spring is on the right (driver) and yellow on the left. The reason for my decision is in my thread - page 5 However Red’s comment has me thinking, as the engine position doesn’t move rhd to lhd.

Well that's cleared things up! It was getting very confusing.

We did ~2,500 miles this Spring around Spain, motorway down to Portsmouth but once there, mainly local roads, a bit of gravel and a lot of hills. With ten re-fuel records (top-ups rather than whole tanks) I got 32mpg. I don't have the number to hand but we have had similar mpg over longer trips too. We have a standard 300 TDi 110 SW but with no seats in the back, just storage boxes, sleeping frame, and general camping stuff - plus a small box on top with bits and bobs. So less weight than a lot of people. Whilst weight etc. have a big effect, driving style can swamp anything else - at least that's what I've found.

It’s a beautiful job. Fantastic work.

^^^^ Me too.

Thanks to advice received on here, daughter #1 bought me a valve so I can play with my boost limit. It should be easier than using the wastegate rod (300TDi)

Merry Christmas everyone. Hope it’s a good one.

Ha! I’ve used “The Knack” video more times than I care to remember when running various training workshops. It’s a great icebreaker or indeed just a good laugh if things get a bit dry. I’m not a Discovery driver but I’m enjoying the thread.

I know this is about resultant EGTs but how have you achieved 1.2Bar of boost? Have you put one of those valves in the pipe to the wastegate actuator?

I’m pretty sure that the Mordant T is the etch. It certainly seems to prep the surface. I then used Buzzweld Chassis In One strainght on in two coats. I don’t think you need another etch.

That’s the problem. There should be continuity between the centre of that plug and any / all of the metal of the whip.

It may now be shut too tight and there’s too much pressure on the lock to be able to release it. Try pushing the door even more closed and at the same time (someone else) tries the lock.