Peaklander

Yes send her in!

If you have a 3/8" drive with short extension, you should be able to get in there.

Thanks @Badger110. I’ve taken to bed with flu maybe but not got proper flu though, so no updates.

My sister's Tesla Model 3 has 55KWh of battery capacity I think. There is something in the re-charge software that prevents a full charge unless a "peak charge" is required to maximise the range. This is something to do with battery preservation but I don't know what. So at this limit of 80% or whatever it was, the range is a little less than 300 miles. It took two nights to charge back up as she plugged into my garage and was limited to 10A.

Good luck with the rebuild.

Great advice there on oils. I have at least an engine-full of the 15W-40 in my 20litre drum. So need to decide if that is good enough or whether a lighter grade would be better now whilst we are still in winter (hardly winter this time around) and change it again later in the summer for the 15W in warmer weather, after our trip to Turkey, which is very much on the cards. Today the Peaklanders spent more quality time together driving the lanes to the south of Buxton and we enjoyed a nice lunch in Longnor. The lanes are great and very quiet and as I was driving I didn't have to open any of the gates myself. We have added another 70 miles or so and now are at about 190. Again it was mainly 1-3rd gear in hilly terrain so reasonable loading on the empty vehicle. I'll continue to add some more running-in miles before changing the oil and filter. During that time I have to decorate a room which will be a change from the garage.

What advantages does the semi synthetic and 10W give Western? I’ve always thought that the 300TDi doesn’t benefit from anything modern. I change my oil and filter every 6,000 miles using the Smith and Allen SHPD 15W-40.

Hi, I have attached a 1991-94 wiring diagram. On here it shows a wire with that colour code in the glowplug circuit. It joins the the ignition to the glowplug warning light and also triggers the glow plug timer relay but that would be on the other side of the bulkhead. If it was originally a non-turbo then you can also see that connects directly to the glowplugs. So I am being a bit dim and can't quite see what's going on but the diagram might help.

Just completed a total of 101 miles today. It takes some time to do this around here as I chose all the little roads to ensure lots of gear changes and varying engine speeds. We’ve driven the length and breadth of the White Peak. Everything seems good. There’s no smoke and the engine feels and sounds fine. I haven’t been too harsh going up the hills and hope these few miles have been a good start. I’m using Millers Running in oil supplied through Turner Engineering and they say change it in no more than 500 miles. I therefore need a couple more day trips! Thank you to everyone for your help, advice and support in what has been a new experience in my vehicle repair and maintenance education. Also for the messages on here and WhatsApp. It’s been great to be directed to do it all correctly. Oh and @monkie I feel your pain. I’ve spent weeks away at a time for work and not being able to do anything else is very frustrating.

It is alive 😀 I have just done a nice and varied 30 mile trip up hill and down dale (in beautiful weather - blue skies above the mists). I chose some reasonable hills and there have been plenty of gear changes so hopefully a good bit of variable engine speed. On initial cranking with the solenoid disconnected, the oil pressure didn't rise enough to switch the warning lamp off. After four decent cranks and the lamp still on, I re-connected and cranked one more time to fill the injector pipes. I had thought that I'd see diesel spirting from the tops of the injectors but the pipes were sitting quite close and there was none, although there was diesel in the tops. So I nipped up the unions and at the next crank it fired in the first revolution. There was a bit of white smoke as I pulled away and then it was gone. This afternoon I'll put some more miles on. It feels like a hooray moment.

It’s 3-5 micron. I just checked with him. Pretty small!

The guy who did this has a wire erosion machine running pretty much all the time. I presume the idea is the same except in this case the wire passes through a leader hole and then erodes sideways in order to cut. It is a continuous wire feed with a takeup reel underneath somewhere. I think he said 1/2 micron accuracy. I may be wrong on that but he is proud that he does about a close as you can get.

Thanks guys. New pressure switch in place and at least it shows no pressure. Let’s hope it changes state with oil pressure. Also I removed the filter and filled that with oil. It was a bit daft not to. Anyway I don’t want to go for a first drive into the darkness so will wait till the morning.

I'm not stupid, honestly but when you read the next bit you might wonder. I have discovered that my oil pressure switch is no good. I honestly don't know when it stopped working but I went out to crank the engine, switched on the ignition and nothing. The cable back is OK, as the warning lamp works when it is touched to ground but the switch, which should be normally closed, isn't. I find this highly embarrassing but I thought I'd admit it on here as part of my penance. Happily I can drive over the moor to a car parts place and pick a new one up in an hour.

Yes oiled them. OK I'll give it a whirl after lunch. I have read the link that you posted on one of "our" forums too. It discusses harder running-in. Thanks for that @cackshifter.