Peaklander

To change the motor direction I think you would buy a specific three position switch that does the combination for you, swapping those bars over through a stop position.

They are referring to this banjo bolt mounted at the back of the pump. It’s in the dark part of the photo but you can see it under the throttle linkage. It takes a 17mm socket and has a flexible spill pipe from the cylinder head and a short rigid pipe that joins the return all the way back to the fuel tank.

I used a little blob of black sealant.

Edit: Sorry about single pics in posts but the upload wasn't happy, even after reducing the size and then trying to add a second in 'edit' mode.

and this

Hi, these might help. 1996 300TDi

Yes of course, you have the lock as well 😀 . L&F replied first thing, which is really impressive and it's perhaps no surprise that the key number doesn't define the entire lock. Their webpage does define the exact specification though, so measuring will work. I still think X-eng are the best first call though.

Had a look on their website and to specify the correct lock you need all the dimensions which would be possible as I think it can be disassembled. I have sent L&F my key details asking if they know the detail from that. However wouldn't X-Eng be able to tell you and probably supply a new lock? That's where I'd start.

Mine is off the vehicle at the moment. I will have a look tomorrow. Edit: I’m fairy certain that it can be disassembled and I should be able to take a pic and some measurements. There’s a number on the key so first of all I will pop that in the L&F site and that might show the lock series.

Yes, I don’t know how you managed to handle them all and move them around. Very well done in a confined area.

Is there any news yet?

If the limits are set correctly, the door reaches the bottom and then continues to unwrap, putting pressure on all the joints until it's all rigid. On the widest doors (like mine) the side guides are 90mm deep. All in all it's a pretty rigid door when closed. They are available second hand, I sold my old one (a bit bigger than 4m x 2m) for £450 after many years service. It's a major job to cut one to size if you are tempted by one that is a bit too wide but fitting behind the side piers does give some flexibility in that respect.

I have just "re-designed" my roller door arrangement. I had previously gone from a flat roof to pitched with a powered roller door. This was mounted underneath the roof trusses and at the time headroom wasn't a concern. Now, many years later, I need more headroom and so have lifted the lintol above the door and lifted the roller so that it sits between the last truss and the gable, high enough so that the clear opening is almost as high as the underside of the trusses. It's not the obvious thing to do but works very well and might serve you well too. Here's a pic...of the new space before the new door was fitted. You need room for the roll with the unwrapping happening in a clockwise motion, as you look here with the door on the right, the curtain hanging down almost but not quite in the same plane as the inside of the gable above.

I got enamel from paintman and they have specific thinners that weren’t the same as other types, as I tried, just to see.

Last year I fitted an STC8358HD manufactured by Clutch-fix to my '96 110 300TDi, recommended by people on here. At the time it was cheapest to source from Bearmach rather than direct from Clutch-fix.