Peaklander

We talked about coding of injectors on my thread about the CRV I was working on. Definitely in that engine, a 2.2 diesel, the injector coding is for the finest tuning. Not only did it start on first try after replacing them (timing chain replacement too), I haven’t yet bothered to get them coded.

That’s the one and it’s perfectly ok to join the discussion. I am starting to look at vehicles now, thinking “I could or might buy that” rather than “ it would be nice but I can’t”. At the moment it’s time that is preventing me but as I said elsewhere, I would never have thought that time would be a problem now I’m retired!

Not sure I understand that comment. What sort of crimped connections are you referring to? There are many in a vehicle as well as plenty of other places too. Edit just read the post from @monkie and they are good examples.

I hitched up to someone else’s trailer the other day. His has a 13 to 7 pin adapter. My lights went haywire and as he was watching me, he said it was my side problem. I knew it wouldn’t be and first sprayed the 7pin plug and socket with my Servisol. Nothing improved so then I pulled the other end at the 13 pin connection. He was a bit edgy about it ( maybe he’s never separated that joint!) but after a good spray and lots of pulling apart and pushing back together, the lights worked perfectly.

I don’t know if it’s true and I might regret a few soldered joints if it is but some people say that vibrations aren’t good for solder. The better way would therefore be straight through crimp connections.

The one I’m referring to has mot. Do you want a link? It’s on fb.

Thanks. There's a running D2 3.9 V8 Auto on springs near me, V reg. seems in good condition but is at £1,700 which might be too much, not sure. I have possibly found a series 3 which I believe is (still) in a barn, that I remember from years ago. I'm taking a slow approach with the farmer.

🤣 I know what you mean. I thought it quite amusing too.

Here's another not far from here but not for me. Just for interest, this time it's a 55 plate L322. Asking £1,000. Description: No offers, please don’t ask. Cats alone are worth £600. *Sold as Spares or Repair* Starts & drives for loading only. Runs rough - has thrown a con-rod and there is a hole in the engine block. What you see is what you get, must be recovered from Sheffield S6. Bodywork is average, bumps and scrapes all round. Corrosion starting in a few places. Drove ok prior to engine failure. We have looked after the car for a number of years - recently had significant money spent on new air springs and air compressor. Facelift Supercharged model, 4.2 engine. Rear entertainment, Brembo calipers etc. 167k miles.

Hmm, from the UK I guess. I imagine that some people would think there is a conspiracy to deliberately delay.

That was very handy and good of you. One week does sound a long time for Belgium to Andorra. Is it identical / are those longer splines just a brand difference that have no operating consequence?

Great! Now you can continue. It would be helpful to know how you, with Filip's help, got the part. I alway wonder what I would do if I got really stuck with a broken bit that I couldn't fix. So far it hasn't happened... Edit: the splines look shorter at the diff end

Of course. I should have known / remembered that. I also drove a Dolomite Sprint. What a car that was. Don’t think it had an OD but all the fun was getting up to top anyway!

I thought the Fairy OD has an electrical operated solenoid to control it? Maybe that was only on the Triumph 2.5 I used to drive when I was 18. It had the OD switch on the knob of the gearstick. It was brilliant, especially swicthing it out and getting a lovely surge to be able to overtake. Oh the 1970s!

Use a proper spray such as this one by Servisol, an example is here