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Peaklander last won the day on April 28

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About Peaklander

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    Old Hand

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    Peak District, Derbyshire, UK

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    Previous 1975 88" re-build on galv. Completed and sold :-(

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  1. There’s quite a high load on the switch contacts so a high current is flowing. That current would like to flow for a bit longer or a bit sooner than when the contacts are properly closed. So it tries to jump the air gap, hence the spark. In addition, if there is dust, dirt, grease or something else coating the contacts, it is easier for that current to jump. That’s why @FridgeFreezer has suggested the contact cleaner spray. @simonpelly suggests a further step which is to re-wire so that those high current contacts are moved into a proper relay that is better suited to switching. In addition, the cabling will be much improved. There’s loads of info around on how to do this.
  2. You say that you have an engine stand, so it should be possible to invert the engine whilst it is mounted on it.
  3. No they definitely aren’t cheaper in store. They won’t apply the discount code either. You have to click and collect. It’s a right pigs-ear of a business but can be handy if in a hurry and sometimes prices are ok 😀
  4. Ian, In my limited experience I have found that Tayna are very competitive although for a little Toyota car the local factors in Sheffield were just as good. However Eurocarparts might be worth a look if you are ready to buy. Their prices are only ever in the correct place with a discount code and even then you need to be careful. Anyway here is their email for today!
  5. Don't have a handy photo. On my 300TDi the cable goes directly out of the right / inboard end of front face of the battery box and then squeezes between the chassis rail (inboard side) and the transmission tunnel - going direct to the starter. It's a thick cable so doesn't like anything other than a straight line anyway.
  6. That's really good. Just what's needed. Can you share more details like the hall effect sensors and also that nice programmable display? Does the STM32 drive that directly and you write code to address it and produce what you want? I would like to read more around how you do this.
  7. Can my order be first on the list? I'd pay more than £1.99 too. Haven't had time to read about the STM32 yet, I will though. My first question would be how would you interface with the measurement device? Does it have an analogue input or is there an interface that talks back somehow. I could start reminiscing about 6502 and how to do it but things have moved on...
  8. I don't want to get into any "why are you using that controller?" discussion because it's been done to death in other threads. Suffice to say I am using the cTek controller that provides a charge for the aux battery and sometimes a trickle for the engine one. It doesn't provide visibility of volts or current. I monitor the voltage across both batteries with a panel mount voltmeter and using a toggle switch I can flip between them. So I have some idea about what's happening but not much. I could do the maths but the problem is that there are assumptions to make that will produce a very wide estimate. Take the 100W solar panel for example. Working blind I don't know what it is producing - I can only see the voltage output from the cTek and have no idea about power going in. That's why I need some more data and hence this thread. @Bowie69 back in the day I could and did programme 8bit microprocessors in assembler (for a living for a while) but the Arduino has passed me by. Maybe that would be a project in my retirement but I would need a steer. @Red90 I will click your links when I get chance - thanks
  9. Ah yes the Blue sea one has a shunt. I should have guessed really. There must be a link that I missed so thanks @Red90 for that. @Arjan I think that it would be useful to fairly easily measure feed into my batteries when on a trip. I have mentioned elsewhere that this summer we just managed with high heat and the 100W solar panel and then in the autumn with little solar charge the heater drain was noticeable. There’s a lot of power available from the alternator when travelling but really I want to be in possession of more data about what’s happening and especially on the solar side. It’s really tricky trying to decide shade or sun. A portable panel would sort that but I’ve done enough trips now to not really want to be moving it around. Also I have long suspected that my alternator should be upgraded. This has been noticeable in the last few weeks when lights, blower, heated mirrors, heated front and rear screens all on simultaneously, pulled my charging volts right down below 12. So I have just fitted a 100A with a big cable back. So really it’s to get better data and also flexibility of measurement, hence the Hall Effect one that caught my eye. I just can’t find one that looks as ‘attractive’ in Europe. As for wanting to measure up to 1,000A @FridgeFreezer, did I read that correctly?!🤔
  10. Hi, wondered what advice and experiences people have about fitting an ammeter to their vehicle? I want to measure the input to my batteries and probably the current drain from my aux that feeds the fridge, heater and camping lights. There are four choices I think and I haven't used any of them previously. 1. Wire-in a meter that sits in a main cable - this is inflexible and very spendy if you go for Blue Sea which I believe is top quality. There's probably cheaper stuff but the measurement range is probably lower. 2. Buy a shunt 'kit' from China for a few £ - this needs the shunt wiring permanently in the desired cable and then the ammeter (volts measurement translated) sits across this. Advantage is that the meter can be mounted remotely (like in the dash) 3. Buy a Hall effect sensor and meter for lots of ££ - advantage is that the sensor can be opened-up to re-clamp a cable of your choice., The meter can be remotely mounted. Here is an example of this: 4. I suppose another option is to buy a clamp meter but for DC these are spendy too! So as I say, what do you have and what advice can you offer? TIA
  11. The +12V feed to the switch is Green (ignition enabled) and the switched side is Green / Brown. From there it goes off to the rear right and then to the left side lamp. There may be unused wires, Slate / Red floating around. This is for gearbox oil temperature.
  12. It was written in notveryeasytoseeitalics, sounds like theeee guy. If I were a little younger maybe I would have written “he’s da man, innit”!
  13. I only know what I have read in the FB BMW group. In there he frequently crops up or is mentioned as the source of the adapters. Also Syncro produce the Slickshift gearstick product which I believe is a widely used product. In much the same way, Marcus Williams handles the loom and ECU challenges. As I say though, it's only what I have read.
  14. Oh dear. There is some muck in there. Have you taken the diode packs off? I'm no expert on alternator disassembly but I don't think that you have to go too mad on the mechanical strip down but you could clean up the electrical stuff where you have already exposed it. I believe you will find links to diode packs if you google AMR3412.
  15. I think that Syncro Gearboxes is/are Shabs Piercy and if so, that's the guy - although I might be corrected. On the FB group you will definitely get an answer on that specific question.
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