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Peaklander last won the day on April 28

Peaklander had the most liked content!

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About Peaklander

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Peak District, Derbyshire, UK

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Previous 1975 88" re-build on galv. Completed and sold :-(

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  1. Wow, what a start to the day I've had reading the method and looking at those photos. Amazing work!
  2. My wife’s uncle is over there this morning. He was with 47 Commando RM pushing through in advance behind the enemy line to Port en Bessin. We will remember them.
  3. Looking at my 97MY diagram isn't any help as the SR wire is for Transmission Oil temperature warning and WP is for fuel pump. So I can safely say that they aren't going to be the same on your 200TDi loom. I do have an old 300TDi drawing but that is stored as a picture so it can't be so easily searched.
  4. I can’t see my electrical drawing as away from home today. I would normally do a search of the pdf for the wire colours and see what they do that way. My 300TDi has a heated rear screen on the third relay from right. The colour for that is white black I think. There’s only five relays there in total though: Starter/ Headlamps / HRW / wipe and flash. So that’s not very helpful.
  5. Dave, the relay bases from Vehicle Wiring Products that are for standard 40A switching relays do interlock with the yellow bases that are down there at the fusebox. They also have a mounting tab with hole and I used this too at one end of that row. (I fitted three additional ones I think). The headlamp upgrade that I did used 70A relays. These have big blades ~9mm I think rather than the ~6mm and I think the relays and bases are physically bigger. They do interlock but I don't know if they will fit down at the fuses. I think this is the base I used. Mine are in the engine bay and appear to be holding up well (over four years now), with dumdum and other sealing.
  6. @mmgemini posted a how-to-do-it thread in here years ago I'm sure. This relay-switches the loads. I copied it exactly and shorted out the dim/dip relay. It suggests fuses and relays for dip and main under the bonnet on the side of the n/s wing.
  7. The part number I quoted is for the front of the vehicle. The rear light harness is AMR4990. That has a plug to connect with the front and then a wire to the rear door switch and the connections to the lamp unit in the roof. The route is along the roof edge on right side front to back.
  8. Last year I bought a couple from this guy https://www.balljointboots.co.uk
  9. Ah yes a fair point. If they are not fitted then they can't be leaking!
  10. Same for me. I thought it was the seams, chasing leaks there, only to discover it was the alpine window seals.
  11. Me too, in fact I was on it the other day and was happy to see it had been updated fairly recently.
  12. There is another connection away from the volumetric and that is the connection that is red. As you can see the wires are the same colour! The red connector is not for the lights. That is the other one.
  13. Fair enough but the colours in the red connector correspond to the correct wires for the ultrasonic sensor on the 97MY Defender diagrams that I have. I don't know why you think it is a translucent connector but if it's in the location I suggest and the wire colours match the circuit then I think I'm correct. Have you got the parts book? Mine is an early one and the harnesses are show.
  14. I don't have a TD5, mine is a 300TDi but I'm sure the wire colours are the same as mine although the connector reference numbers are not. P purple / PW purple white / PU purple blue / B black / BN black brown / SW slate white First of all, the red connector (B BN WB) is to connect an ultrasonic sensor in the roof headlining. On my vehicle (RHD) it is above the driver's head. You don't need to fit this for the alarm or lights to work. The interior lights rules are: Lamps are fed with permanent +12 volts on P and 0 volts on either B or PW. B allows local on/off switching at the lamp unit when selected ON and the 10AS controls via PW when the lamp unit is at DOOR. The 10AS alarm unit controls the lamps so that they switch on / off when doors are open / closed using the 0 volts side of the circuit via PW cables. It drives 0 volts on PW when the interior switch is in DOOR position (which selects PW rather than B). If the 10AS wants the lamps off it drives the PW wire to +12 volts and no current flows. A lamp is switched on by the 10AS driving this wire to 0 volts. The door sense (pillar switches) are supplying a 0 volts from the ground provided at their pillar screw, to the 10AS and are all connected in parallel via PU except the driver's door which as you have see, is on a separate circuit (SW) back to the 10AS. So passenger, 2nd row doors if you have them and the rear door, are all connected back on PW to the 10AS. Edit: Some clarity and also I think you need the wiring diagram for your vehicle.
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