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Peaklander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Peaklander

  1. Great to hear of your problem solving and feedback about the effect of dodgy connections! P.S. please explain more about this thing called "full sun"?
  2. I agree, it isn't the 300TDi crank pulley as the bolt isn't big enough. On the 300 it's 27mm and the power steering pulley doesn't have a centre bolt. Edit, here's mine showing water pump pulley top right and power steering underneath.
  3. Set off in good time tomorrow and there should still be an Easter Egg left by the time you get here!
  4. @Anderzander if you feel like a drive you can come and try mine. I don’t know what adapter you need or what I have but I can look in a day or two.
  5. I didn't realise that this thread looks a little unfinished. So, just to say, everything works. The fobs set and unset the alarm and at the same time, lock and unlock the doors. If I operate the key in the driver's door, the CDL works but the alarm is not set. This can be very handy. My second row doors are still manual. One day I will fix this. Conclusion, fitting CDL has made things far more convenient and was worth the effort.
  6. I was talking yesterday to a farmer in the back end of nowhere. He has an 88" sitting rotting outside that he's "going to put in the shed over there, once it's cleared it out and get it back on the road." Yeah right. However, he offered me a Discovery 200 TDi "with a good chassis because I always oiled it but a rotten body". It's situated very roughly between Leek and Buxton. It may also be very rough and situated between Leek and Buxton. Just in case, FYI.
  7. Don't forget that if you introduce an additional car to the mix, you will have to add the insurance, which won't have any available no claims bonus. If you were able to transfer it across from the Ibex then that would help but the Ibex would then be un-insured which would not be desirable.
  8. He has been my guide @western. Those videos describe the whole job and I couldn't have managed without them.
  9. Well it might depend on where you live and what sort of weather you get. Do you use the heated mirror function on your daily driver car if you have one? It might be that you don't realise this, as sometimes they are configured to be enabled and then temperature triggered. If you switch them on manually then you have answered your own question! I find them very useful for clearing mist and droplets at the start of a drive but sometimes during one too. Of course in frosty weather they are great. I am fitting the egt gauge so that I know the temperatures that I am getting. I doubt I will have to change my driving style but we do drive some reasonably challenging roads when on trips; often steep and sometimes high (>2,000m) so maybe there's something to gain by measurement.
  10. I have a Mudstuff panel in my 300TDi 110. I don’t do bling but I need what’s on it. Switches are 1 and 2 for interior lights; one at front and a pair further back 3 work lamp at rear 4 hazard. Wanted this front and centre. Original position is near door at knee height 5 6 7 heated front screen, rear and mirrors Also have boost gauge, voltmeter fed from a dpdt switch to flick between the two batteries, an ammeter off the solar panel and a couple of usb outlets Recently I went for power windows so that was two more Carling Also there’s LEDs for the coolant level probe in the header tank Finally I will be adding a miniature EGT display that has a maximum and alarm set point The clock is on there because in its place at the binnacle I fitted a VDO oil pressure gauge and I wanted this in plain sight The vehicle is a camper and these additions are helpful when driving and when parked camping.
  11. Nah, there's nothing like driving in the heat with the flaps open, the windows open and then arriving at the campsite, relaxing with a drink and listening to the sound of ringing in your ears!
  12. This is my filter to FIP pipe. It's about 45cm long.
  13. Yes, it’s a shame as resolving things is good but it’s probably for the best.
  14. You come here for advice and that’s what I am offering. I am suggesting that your request for help on this thread and your previous unresolved alarm thread are connected. As @Bowie69 also says, get the 10AS sorted and then the puddle lights are simple.
  15. We have been here before on your other thread. That fob talks to the 10AS. That sets and resets the alarm. When configured correctly it can also lock and unlock the doors at the same time as setting resetting the alarm. It also can immobilise the engine but you don't need to do that. It also controls the interior lights when they are in DOOR position rather than ON or OFF. This is because the door switches are connected to the 10AS and it then controls the lamp circuit. Getting this working is the best way to get interior lamps and central locking working off a fob. It makes no sense to me to introduce another system and fob. Get working what you have.
  16. It's what I have and I can't think where else there is a double banjo. @Troll Hunter, if you already have fuel lines connected, what have you used for the spill rail to back of pump? Do you have the banjo on the 90degree metal pipe, as shown in the first photo from @simonpelly ?
  17. You have a thread somewhere which covers diagnosing the wiring around the 10AS and its alarm etc. If you want to do what the Volvo yellow button does then I suggest that you work through that thread again and sort the alarm system. I would think that 10AS unit itself is OK but having checked everything else you can send it and your fobs to Paul at https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk and he will check it over. Or send it first to make sure that the functions you want are active. With a working 10AS and correctly operating door switches and key fobs, you will get the interior lamps coming on and off at the push of the fob buttons and can then extend to puddle lamps or whatever you want.
  18. Have you got the 10AS working in yours? That will turn on the interior lights when you disarm the alarm off the fob. I have wired-in footwell led strips too, so they come on with those lights. I don't have puddle lights.
  19. I have mentioned this before on another rant thread about couriers but it's worth it again. I ordered some 4' led tubes from Toolstation, to replace fluorescents, home delivery. Two were broken when I opened them. They happily sent out two more and one of those was broken. So I thought I'd do them a favour and got that one replaced but arranged collection at their nearest place. When I arrived at the counter the lad went to get it and came back with the long cardboard tube completely bent in half and presented it to me. Much merriment was had. I couldn't get angry as it was so hilarious.
  20. I would hope so Ross. That project was amazing and my bit, the cryo system, introduced me to incredible low temperatures. Liquid Helium was controlled at 4-5 Kelvin and when things went a bit wrong, returning cold Helium gas caused oxygen to liquify and drip off pipes onto the floor like water.
  21. We built a lot of industrial control panels during my early career. They were PLCs not hard wired relays, just in case you think I am really old. All the standard I/O wiring was in black with numbered identity ferrules, defined on the drawing and usually referencing the I/O address. It was quite a chore to apply them at both ends prior to crimping but once on and lined-up it made for a tidy job. The Klippon DIn rail mounted terminals to the external multi-cores, were also numbered but usually something simpler. That required a two-column cross-reference table. Spreadsheets didn't exist in the 1980s!
  22. Yes and just to put some more detail in, the upper is fuel return from number 1 injector (front) spill, to the rear of the fip and on to the tank. The double banjo is fuel supply from filter to the front of the pump.
  23. They are diesel pipes at the fuel injection pump I think.
  24. I got the ATB in, this time with the carrier bearings. They were a good eBay find, at £5 each. Came off someone's garage shelf, still sealed. I needed the spreader and a good few encouraging taps with the copper hammer. Even then the bearings only pulled in with the bolts. It feels good though but wow that pinion pre-load makes a difference. Maybe I'll no longer be able to push it! The best bit was the backlash and the mesh looks good too. I then fitted the new brake lines and the rims, to help move it around and also took out the filler plug to make the oil fill move obvious, I hope. Finally the tricky task of lifting into place on the vehicle, with only my pair of hands. This is difficult and much frustration was expounded but finally it is in. The spring seats have a lot of grease, bolts have copper slip and nuts will have threadlock after torque-ing but not until it is sitting on wheels. The ARB has new Gwyn Lewis greaseable balls but they still need to be properly located. Something doesn't line-up but it's probably me. I had already tried to bolt down the spring seats with them upside-down. I'll look again tomorrow.
  25. Thank you, it feels good and I am hoping that the ATB shows a good mesh this morning. Hopefully I can get it back into the case without difficulty. Yes the second flange holding bar, which was a bit short but all I had, was pushing down on a couple of wood blocks to get it nearer to horizontal. The photo was taken before I realised that would be necessary. Even so, the whole axle was trying to lift. In Mike's video, not only does he do this on a bench, the axle doesn't really move until the last bit. For anyone else doing it, I would say that it can't be done on the vehicle unless it is up on a ramp.
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