Jump to content

Peaklander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Posts

    3,276
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    27

Everything posted by Peaklander

  1. It's a confusing picture. Most couriers that serve here are good, apart from Evri who were the last to cause me grief. FedEx is one of the best. A few weeks ago the driver rang me to say that he probably couldn't get up the hill due to snow. He made a good effort and got part way in reverse. I went to meet him. Today he delivered at 8:15am. This was a small packet from the USA. It only left there on Wednesday, was in their Sheffield depot on Saturday. The UPS driver on this route has done it for years; the Parcelforce one the same. Some company drivers are salaried but others paid per drop. The drops around here are spread out and they really have to cover the ground. I think the per-drop wage drivers are probably the issue but you can see why.
  2. I have made progress today but wow this axle is a bit of a beast to work on. Firstly I walked into Mister Gearbox yet again and even though it was Monday morning, I had a brief catch-up and then Richard got to work on the carrier bearings. I had been careful to separate the shims across the two sides, can't have a mistake there. What a lovely press. It has a fixed head, the pump is fastened to the header and there's nothing flapping around, unlike my hobby one. There was no heat or cold involved; they just pressed-on easily. Then I had a reasonable drive to Paddocks where I picked up another pinion seal and the hub tab washers that I had forgotten and a stock of propshaft 3/8"unf nylocs. Then I set-to with the pinion final installation, this time remembering to locate the oil plate thing and the paper gasket too. The seal needs a big bearing race or something to knock it in. A hub box spanner works but is a bit small. I used a bit of Hylomar around the mating surface. Then it was on to the pinion installation and setting of the pre-load. Now I have read about this and I have seen Brit. Rest's video. Even so, I would say that nothing prepared me for the difficulty in getting that crush washer to move enough to create the pre-load. I started confidently with my holding steel on the the flange and started with the 1/2" long breaker and 32mm socket. It gets tight way before there is any preload. In fact there is no preload until just a smidgen before it comes on. Before that though I had moved to 3/4" tools and it continued to get very tight. Then this happened So I searched for something else and found a better shape. These bracing bars are located with a couple of nuts and bolts but they need to be secure and this means that each time you want to check the preload, they need to be undone. The weight of the steel interferes with the turning resistance unless it is vertical maybe. I just thought it better to eliminate it. A better design would allow it to be held into the flange but quickly removed. Before the crush happened, I was leaning hard on a 1m pipe and the axle was trying to lift up and wander. It was a huge torque going on in fractions of a turn before I felt the pre-load and one check later it was done. About 2Kg at 20cm which I make as 40Kg-fcm. The flange is stiff to turn with your hand. That's how much pre-load it is. Next I need to install the carrier and check the mesh now that the bearings are fitted. Hopefully it is still OK.
  3. In my experience, apart from the heavily disguised mules, there wouldn't have been many cars on the road until the press cars were released. Very few employees would have access to any. Then once they are released to sales there would be few, if any, available 'early', for employees through any company schemes.
  4. I recorded this short video just before I put the Salisbury pinion in for the last time. It's just in case the markings are useful. Salisbury pinion markings.mp4
  5. I think that alternator is a higher output, similar to mine and the regulator pack isn’t easily removable as on the old one. I’d love to be told I’m wrong though as I would like to carry a spare. I think you have a post somewhere on the smaller alternator @FridgeFreezer. I once followed it in the depths of Spain and it explains how to easily swap the pack with the aid of a paper clip.
  6. I'm pretty sure that part of the circuit is behind the instrument binnacle, so not that difficult if you do need to delve in. Checking the exciter wire doesn't need 12V, just whatever the battery is currently supplying (11-12) The drop across the diode is 1.4V or so (IIRC) so the other end of the wire, at the alternator, should 'see' most of it. That is the first thing to check. If you do see volts there, then it's those brushes probably, as @Bowie69 suggests. They are on the rectifier pack anyway if it is the standard alternator that I referred to. One step at a time though.
  7. Just see if there is +12v on the exciter wire first. if you have the standard A127 alternator then the rectifier pack is a cheap replacement that only takes a few minutes. When that went on mine the voltage went all over the place, whereas yours is ziltch.
  8. I have a 96 model but use that later electrical manual. If you ignore anything that you don’t have, then the rest seems to be correct. I think you need to check the exciter circuit, shown on the diagram at NY (brown yellow). See if it is +12v with engine off but ignition on. If not you will need to work backwards. If it is then the red charge lamp should be on at ignition on until the alternator kicks in. As you can see there’s no fuse involved, assuming that you have that white feed from the ignition switch.
  9. Hi, I can no longer click on reactions such as 'likes' to see who has clicked. Is that something to do with the update or the cookie settings pop-up (which I am now getting on every visit)? I am not seeing adverts but I am getting blank areas.
  10. I get that. 1Kg force is that experienced by a 1Kg mass under acceleration due to gravity (9.81m/s/s) which is 9.81N thus 46 Kg-f is 46 x 9.81 = 451 N So 46 Kgf-cm is 451 Ncm which is 4.51Nm My spring balance is marked in Kg anyway, representing increasing 1Kg forces when a pull equivalent to gravity acts on it. So I can just pull at 46Kg at 1cm away from the pinion centre of rotation. Something like 15cm would need 46/15 = 3Kg on the spring balance pulled with a short bar. I'm glad to get that off my chest.
  11. @Hybrid_From_Hell the Salisbury carrier bearings are Timken 387A/382-S These are imperial bearings measuring OD 3.8125” ID 2.25”
  12. No I think it’s 46/9.81 Ncm. Not very much of a turning force. Or my head is scrambled. 1Kg force = 9.81N
  13. I set-off this morning with great intentions to get the pinion installed and the axle fastened back in / up. First job was to make a bar to brace the pinion, so that the pre-load can be accurately set. That was easier than I thought because I had a spare length of wall plate tie-down bar. I drilled out a couple of holes that were already in the correct place and then ran the flap disc on it to give clearance for the socket which I think is 27mm. The outer bearing must go into the case first, with oil applied and the oil seal has to go in the correct way round but it would fall out if reversed. I even oiled the leather that seemed very brittle. Presumably that was the correct thing to do. Somehow I got involved watching Mike's video of the same job and before I knew it, the seal had been knocked nicely into place. Then I looked on the bench and saw the oil splash washer thing that I had missed out. He doesn't mention fitting it though. The seal doesn't come back out without damaging it, so now I will be going to Paddock's to get another but at least I'm ready to take all the unused shims back. I have £11.82 in total so by the time I have driven there and back with a new seal I'll be +/- nothing probably. This afternoon I'll get the axle onto the floor and start to put the hubs and brakes back on, hopefully with no mistakes.
  14. Pressing the bearings onto the carrier didn't go well. I could not get my press to push vertically and twice got the first bearing on cock-eyed. Nothing I can do will get it to start straight and I used the clamshell puller to get it off (very easily). I dislike this press enormously and if I continue with this kind of hobby I will need to either throw it or severely modify it so that it does what it's supposed to do. The ATB is back in the house and I hope that the frost on it will evaporate quickly. Maybe the freezer isn't such a good idea and I would be better properly heating the bearing. I think I'll move to Plan B and jump in the car on Monday to Mister Gearbox. I can concentrate on the pinion instead. The outer race was also in the freezer and now that is in the case in front of the shim (yes I did remember to put it back). So I can add the crush washer and set the preload, which needs to result in a torque of 34.5 - 46 Kgfcm which has to be the weirdest non-SI measurement. I will check it with a spring balance and a short bar and I will show my workings here. 😜 The old and new crush washer are only 1mm different in length (27.9mm v 28.8mm) although the new one varies a little on that length (about 0.4mm) measured to different points around the circumference. It's obviously not a precision piece. I have a new seal ready to go in. It's the leather type, which must have been appropriate for the mid 1990s builds. I went to the local garage and I borrowed one of their brake pipe flare kits. The guy there (long time, experienced mechanic and sole trader alongside his better half), was having a bad day. I caught him cursing a front hub that was in the process of being demolished dismantled with such anger, that he was wearing ear defenders. Anyway I was clearly so happy myself that it rubbed off and he told me to go and get the box and I was off. I need to replace the brake pipe across the axle, as stupidly I managed to snag a union and in the semi-darkness I had twisted the pipe instead of turning the union around the pipe. I also need to service my Eberspacher D2 heater. So there's plenty to do in advance of Monday morning. I can even lift the axle back into place and fit the new brake pads and be ready to do that final install of the ATB from underneath.
  15. Ahem, it's like a lot of things, you need to get your timing right.
  16. OK well on the strength of the positive feedback I have decided to continue! Into the cooler 🥶
  17. 😀 it isn’t quite done yet. I think when it is, I’ll want to close the case before lifting down from the workbench and back to the vehicle. I will need to get some additional muscle from somewhere. There’s no room to use the crane.
  18. I'm having a good afternoon then. Thanks. Now I'm 'off it" for 24 hours as got other more pressing things this afternoon and the morning, so there's plenty of time for more advice! In the morning I have to go to Buxton - just when some snow is forecast, so that could be fun. #wintertyres Unless anyone has a contrary opinion I think that I should leave it. There's the chance that fitting the bearings to the ATB and the crush washer to the pinion will alter things. I know that's not supposed to happen but... If I remember in the morning I'll put the ATB in the freezer. It will need some sort of weight spreader otherwise I'll squash something. Bearings on the Aga too. Even so, they are a tight fit. Oh yes, @ashtrans confirmed this morning that their ATB shaft spec. is 57.2mm +0.02 +0.03 (thanks Dave), so that is the same as the carrier that has come out and my machinist was being unduly cautious.
  19. Yes. I think increasing the pinion height (more mesh) should do that but where they then sit (together) I don't know. As it will reduce backlash anyway (and that is at the top of the range now), moving things towards the toe, I might be lucky.
  20. So, I have looked at the contact pattern and will post some photos. The situation is that the pinion is in, now with a Timken bearing and the shim that was there is now under a Timken cup, ground undersize so that I can remove it if needed. That will be changed to a pressed cup at the end. The book suggests the pinion should be over 10 thou lower than it is, due to the +9 marking, so that is more out of mesh. However, give or take the Koyo - Timken change, it is in the same position as before. The ATB is in with dummy bearings and shims as detailed above. There's now a total of 0.103" and there was 0.105" with the old final drive fitted. The bearing caps are fitted but not torqued. Backlash is under 0.011"; it varies a little on the rotation. There's no measurable run-out. Here are the photos. I have posted several as the shadows and angles really affect what you can see: Drive side (convex) To my novice eye, that looks good. Central up and down and not on the edge or down in the root. Coast (concave) I'm not so sure about these coast markings, they might be too far to the toe (inside). I believe that pinion depth moves the pattern between root (deeper) and tooth (shallower) but it also moves the drive and coast between toe to heel (inside outside) in opposite directions. So moving the pinion to get the coast mark towards the heel, would bring the drive mark towards the toe. Backlash moves the marks in the same direction. Tighter mesh (higher pinion) moves to the toe and looser (lower pinion height) moves to the heel. Trouble is I think my drive pattern is good as it is! I need grown-ups. So I won't touch anything and wait and see what you all suggest... Edit: I think if I do anything, that the drive is towards the Heel and the coast is towards the toe. Therefore I believe the pinion could come up a touch, more into mesh.
  21. I lent my original ramps to someone in 1978 and never saw them again. Finally bought a pair for nothing a few years ago but the front apron is too low on our Golf and so I gave them away.
  22. It's gone in finally, with a struggle. I wound-up the spreader and took it to 6.5 thou. When it didn't drop in I did it some more. It would easily just drop most of the way but I finally resorted to a few copper hammer blows and it was in. That was much harder than I expected. This is still with the dummy bearings on of course. I know they are 'right' so it can't be that. Some EP80 on the sides definitely helped. The backlash was over spec at 0.40mm / 16 thou. (spec. 6-11) so out it came, with a bar and spreader. I moved the 4 thou shim (which seems to measure 5 today) across to the CW side and in it went, same method but at least it was quicker. The ATB by the way, with CW fitted, weighs 22Kg. It's quite a workout as my workbench is high and I need to stand on a step to be sure I'm at the correct angle. If you have ever 'tweaked' something that then takes six weeks or more to calm down, then you'll know why. So now the backlash is between 11 and 5 as I measure in four quadrants. The runout is negligible. I will go and fasten the bearing caps on just to be sure nothing changes but it looks as though I need to move a little more shim to the CW. Now I have 30+30+4 on the CW and 30+9 opposite, still maintaining 103 total. There's a selection of 3 / 5 / 10 new shims available to use and an original 2 which is slightly damaged but maybe would be ok. I could go to 30+30+5+2 and 30+3+3 to keep 103 total. Perhaps before I do, I could check the contact pattern. If it looks horrible then I will probably make a pinion height change and that would change the backlash anyway.
  23. That’s useful detail. I’d remembered the three flats and thought it would be spreader specific but I didn’t remember that it says 0.012”. If I can spread just a little more it will be ok, I’m sure and now I have that leeway. Thanks both. Onwards…
  24. Right well I am very confused and need a break. If I spread it by 0.005" using the dti across to one side, it feels very hard work on the spreader I have to reach that. I read on the interweb that a Dana 60 case can be spread up to 0.015" which would be way more than needed and a tough ask on my spreader - which I thought I'd managed to create as heavy duty! Can a Salisbury really be spread that much? So much stuff says just knock it back in with a hammer. There's no way mine will go that way, it doesn't sound as though it is moving once it is in about half-way. I was very careful with the CW mounting, oilstone, break cleaner etc. Surely I don't need to re-visit that. It must be the lack of spread.
  25. Does anyone know how much the case should spread? I assume it has to at least move by the pre-load amount of 5 thou. I don't know how much grunt to put on my spreader. Maybe I should measure the opening as I do it and find out. Edit: yes Nige, I have done exactly that on the crown wheel assembly to the ATB.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy