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Peaklander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Peaklander

  1. I had to ask Paul for help. They are horrible little things to deal with - especially as I did it in early December when the garage was about 1C all day. I'll dig out my notes and put them on here - I might need to tidy them up a bit and I'll do it as soon as I can.
  2. #14 yes. Here...https://yrmit.co.uk/product/land-rover-defender-series-front-footwell-floor-plate-fixing-kit/
  3. That could just be a poor connection that has developed on a high current cable joint, so at the battery or on the starter motor.
  4. One of the ends on mine suddenly started leaking on a long drive to the Plymouth ferry last year. By the time we got to the next rest halt and realised what was happening, the engine was getting a good spray. Someone on here, @cackshifter I think, suggested reinforcing the ends with heat-shrink, which reminds me...
  5. It could also be the headlamp relay not contacting properly. I've had this recently. Lost dipped lamps suddenly at 50mph in the very very dark and had to flick beam on quickly. It's a bit disconcerting. They came back several miles later and then failed next morning at 6am before I'd had time to look. I cleaned the relay contacts and all has been good. Here's a diagram that I posted recently on another thread.
  6. Slightly OT but a friend with a 2012 90 Puma diesel CSW has complained about being charged in the new 'clean air zone' in Sheffield, whereas my 1996 110 300TDi CSW isn't. His vehicle is in LGV class and mine is PLG. It seems that the later built CSWs were classed as LGV (light goods vehicle) to keep the annual road tax much lower than it would otherwise have been. So I politely pointed this out to him.
  7. This diagram might help. It's a simplified circuit to help me with any dipped beam fault finding. I have removed the dim / dip relay and you can see in my diagram that it is replaced with a piece of wire across the relay base that provided a short between the blue/red cables. 1996 300TDi
  8. Not quite the help you are asking for but when we were last in France (2019) these ‘zones’ weren’t live all the time. I think they are switched on under certain weather conditions when particulate levels are high. So whether or not it’s an issue might also depend on when you are travelling.
  9. I saw one on Monday, towing a livestock trailer back from Bakewell market. Most though are solo and clean.
  10. There is an earth point on the transfer box too. This affected my gauges in the same way. Look back and up on the righthand side (driver’s in UK) and you should see it.
  11. I have a Ctek 5.0 which developed the button issue and I couldn’t get it to click round the settings. It was a few weeks away from five years old, the guarantee limit. The seller (on eBay) promised to replace if Ctek authorised and that’s what happened. So whilst under the guarantee, I’d periodically check that the button works!
  12. I have seen that press - they made the bonnets for the Honda Concerto amongst other things and also panels for Roll Royce. I might have mentioned this somewhere else on here before but I went to work at a company and needed to give a speech at the long service awards dinner. A recipient was up for his 40 year award. I was only 36 years old and it was very humbling.
  13. I worked at Honda Swindon for a few years, in the engine plant. We melted aluminium ingots at one end, cast the block, gearbox cases (high pressure) and head (low pressure with sand moulds), machined it all, (hobbed the gears in later years) and then assembled and test fired every engine. This was across two production lines in one single level building. It was about 100m x 100m that's all. The most amazing place you would ever see; a proper modern precision factory. It's so sad that a change in strategy caused Honda Corp to close it.
  14. This is an excellent thread. Thank you for posting. Your Balkans route is v v similar to ours in 2015 in our 110 but we were camping on the ground in those days so a little more limited. I can see us moving to a setup just like this in the no to distant future. I will file this thread under extremely useful information.
  15. I am getting used now to the convenience of central / remote locking, especially as I 'invested' in a couple of lovely silicone fob covers. I haven't done any work on the second row doors (actuator or harness) as the manual locking is quite handy. The central locking can be operated with the key in the driver's door and doing this doesn't set the alarm. This is the feature provided by the extra two cores at the door connector. The 10AS unit sees a signal to 0V at the turn of the key and toggles the central locking only. It's going to be quite handy to be able to have one of the second row doors left manually unlocked and to be able to get in and out whilst the other doors are all secure.
  16. I drove on the motorway for the first time since I refitted the OD for the second time. A previous day out had been a nice Peak District slow wandering of 70 miles on a few lanes and some of the smallest roads, mainly south of Buxton, north of Hartington and east of Leek. At the weekend though, I had a steady drive at 65-70mph up to Ripon, to attend a first for me - a stall at a 'Spares Day'. I had gathered-up all my redundant parts and a few other items and had a go. It was very much worth the effort. I think that adding a label with a price tag really helped. The funniest bit was the people scanning the stalls well before the official start time. One guy tried to haggle over the price of my snorkel, first knocking 20% off the ticket. I told him that was a bit cheeky as it was still only 9:15 (9:30 start), so then he offered to "split the difference". So I asked him to stroll on. A few minutes after the proper start time I sold it to the first person that picked it up, for the asking price. Anyway, the round trip of about 180 miles was mostly at high speed (M1 & A1) and the temperature stickers have just crept into the low 90s C. So I am cautiously optimistic that things are OK.
  17. I had one or two back in those days and earlier. They were a lot better than nothing and nothing was the only other choice. If there's something better now, like a blower, then fine but otherwise I would use one.
  18. I would remove the cable from the stalk, just to be sure that for whatever reason, it is connected through to the horn. This eliminates the stalk. If there's a relay in the circuit, then that cable at the stalk would connect to the coil and you have at least two circuits that could go wrong, by feeding +12V when it's not needed. You say that there is a bonnet open switch and show a photo of it. I think that is only needed if an alarm is fitted. If there is an alarm, then the horn circuit gets a little more complex. Do you have a key fob?
  19. Have a look at LR Workshop The speedo assembly is here: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-transfer-box/transfer-box-lt230/speedometer-transducer_45156 and the lever must be in here somewhere https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-transfer-box/transfer-box-lt230
  20. I wonder if new injector washers should be annealed as a matter of course, just in case they have been on a shelf somewhere for ages? I don't know how long 'ages' is though.
  21. I did, on my 88 rebuild. I don't remember having much success but that was the advice given. If I can find pics I will post them.
  22. Add a thin piece of steel either side of the aluminium and heat the aluminium through that.
  23. As you have two independent lamps, one above each front seat, you could have the footwell lights connected with their respective overhead light. You can wire them directly in parallel with the overhead lamp so that they are controlled in exactly the same way. To do that, from your diagram you would bring 819.5 to each led strip. Then a cable for each strip from a suitable point at the connection between the lamp and the switch common. The led strip won't load the circuit much. Edit it's about 100mA for each strip. Here's a pic of the ones I bought.
  24. If it's not too late you might like to add some footwell led strips. They are as cheap as chips and could parallel-up with your overhead lights but you obviously need a +12V feed down there. I have just added them to my vehicle.
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