Peaklander

When there's so many wires (cables?) going up to the roof, what route do / will you use? I have added several cores for my central locking and now I have a conduit going up the A post.

...if you dropped them just a few cms, many weeks before.

Yes I'm sure it's only the washer and gasket. They seem to crop-up in more search results than ever before. I thought I could easily find the prices I paid for the bearings but I can't. However the point was going to be that I'd advise to shop around, as even with postage costs, the on-line supplier prices can be very competitive. Having said that, it's good to support local outlets and you could also be classed as 'remote' for postage costs!

I had some spare O-rings and when I bought the spare parts I think I was sent a few more - perhaps instead of the usual bag of Haribos. You will need to see what other parts you need. All the bearings, plus the baulk rings are easy to source in the UK but if you need other parts they will need to come direct from Roamer Corp. so you can get the O-rings too. Otherwise just buy 'locally'. Well done on getting started. As you have read, I was happy to jump in the car and ask for help when the going got tough.

Straying off-topic just a little again, as you mentioned Apollo13, there are two podcast series on BBC Sounds called 13 Minutes to the Moon. Series 1 charts the 13 minutes that the Lunar Module took to descend to the surface during the Apollo 11 mission. That's quite a good series but Series 2 is all about the disaster that was the Apollo 13 mission. It is based on the recordings of the communications from Mission Control to the spacecraft, plus other unofficial tapes and is an amazing series. It takes time to listen to it but for an intense study of the reactions of the crew and ground during the first critical minutes and then for the remaining days of the return it is unbeatable. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/w3ct0pc5

I know @Anderzandersaid he’d measure tomorrow but as I’m in the garage, here’s mine. The minimum dimension is 100mm to the top of the fold at the inner wing - arch joint. I have a chequer plate and gasket which makes it look odd.

This topic has grabbed my attention as I was looking at the Nakatanenga box only this morning. It certainly is spendy. I've been wondering if the pipe and tyre valve connection/gauge for an air compressor could fit there.

I haven't needed a steering box overhaul but during reading around over the years I have made a note of two places. These will have been recommended - otherwise I would have ignored them. Kiley - Clinton Engineering Ltd. www.steering-racks.co.uk and www.dasteeringltd.co.uk/services/steering-boxes/

I have a heated front screen with a split circuit, so three tags. Each side has a fused power relay and is fed through 4.0mm2 cable. These relays are switched by a single timer relay, triggered on (and off if necessary) with a momentary Carling switch. I think I used 6.0mm2 for the common 0V return to a bulkhead earth point.

I replaced my 300TDi turbo with an exchange unit from AET in Normanton, Yorkshire. You request and pay for a 'new' one and after delivery / fitting you send them the old one within a long time window, otherwise suffer a surcharge. I have also had a VNT unit checked and rebalanced at a local place in Sheffield as an economy job and that has run well for a couple of years so far. EDIT: @stevebus has beaten me to it!

Happy Christmas to all fellow forum members.

It's C332 (not 322), one half of the white connector shown here (photo credit to LR Workshop) Great news @GTJR By the way I think you are uploading your pics incorrectly. I think I have had that problem when I have copy / pasted a file direct from 'Finder' on my Mac. Try dragging instead or copy paste from the photo library. Then again the Covid might still be getting to me!

I remembered this thread and now that I have a pile of rusty tools from my late father-in-law's, I have decided to clean some and then decide what to do with them. As I cleared a couple of buildings I have slowly accumulated various tyre levers and many ball pein hammer heads. I reckon that they have collected rust over at least eighty years. I weighed-in nearly a ton of scrap too but hope to have some of this de-rusted stuff on a car boot stall. I would like to get to Newbury in April but it's a bit of a hike however I have a decent list of LR related stuff to sell now. Anyway, a small tub, battery and old fashioned charger plus washing soda from Sainsbury's (cheapest) was quickly assembled and the first item I tried was this. Result!

According to the circuit diagram I posted, the OP is at the correct fuse but as you can see, these two bits of diagnosis ‘conflict’.

Ok I’ll back off but on my diagram the feed from the fuse is RO. It doesn’t split to RW until further down to the gauges and he says that the clock doesn’t light up.

Just for good measure, this is the back of the fusebox. You should be able to carefully move it forward to allow a bit of RO searching. Disconnect the battery though to avoid nasty sparks. https://www.lrworkshop.com/wiring-looms/defender-1995-300tdi/bulkhead-loom-300tdi-rhd/bulkhead-300tdi-rhd-fuse-box This a screen shot of it

There is an earth post that affects the gauges - well it did on mine. It's on the transfer box and you can see it from the front, looking back along the right side of the vehicle (left as you look).

There's a common point on the +12V feed and the other at the 0V post but finding the +12V would be easier I think. Don't look for that splice connector yet; identify the correct fuse and make sure that the RO cable has +12V. The splice will be harder to find in the back of the dash. You really need to be sure you are looking at the correct circuit for your vehicle. Here is a link to a late 300 and they are interactive, in that you can hover and click a connector reference and maybe find out more. https://www.lrworkshop.com/wiring-diagram/defender-1997-300tdi/interior-illumination However identify the RO cable at the point where it leaves the fusebox. I am a bit slow with this feedback as I have managed to catch Covid for the first time and I can hardly manage to type; in-spite of four jabs! Edit: you could simply pull each fuse, check each carefully for continuity as it isn't always obvious if one has blown. Also look at the brightness of the conductors and then refit the fuse - maybe with a spot of petroleum jelly on the contact surfaces.

If you are correctly using the voltmeter then yes, no power. Here's the circuit diagram - yours won't be far off this. There are some other connections - the clock and the cigar lighter. Do these light-up? If they do then the fuse is OK and you have a problem where the power moves onto the red/white. If not I would find the fuse and be sure that it is intact and making good contact in the fuse holder. I think you should verify that you have power on the RO (red / orange) from the fuse.

Here's the back of my gauges on a 96 110. You can see that each bulb holder has the +12V on the red/white and the 0V is on the black. You already said that you can read +12V on the red-white and to do this I assume you are holding the other voltmeter probe onto metal somewhere, to provide the 0V (chassis) connection. Switch on your lights and then put your voltmeter across those two connections into the bulb. I doubt you will see 12V because it sounds as though the black wires are not connected to earth. If this is so, then get a length of cable and touch it from that black terminal at the back of a bulb and onto the same metal that you used for the voltmeter probe. Assuming that the bulb then lights, that will prove that you have a missing 0V at the gauges.

Yes thought so. Undoing at the vents is an unwanted fiddle but not doing so risks cracking the plastic and I don’t have many lives left! Thanks for looking.

I’m well on with this now, if progress can be judged by the dashboard being dismantled yet again. I seem to have done this too often, yet each time, I struggle with the long plastic piece that the vent handles poke through. It sits at an angle, sloping down and back and has to come out in order to access the loom from the dash down to the fusebox and in my vehicle, to the rear of the Mudstuff console. The problem is that I have never been able to remove the vent handles from the lever that goes forward through to the flaps. Every time, I pull and pull but they don’t budge. Can they be removed? Should I try harder or will something break?!

but output and input Maybe you can 'drill spin' the input with a suitable adapter

We have a "4wd" awning on our 110 😀. It's a Howling Moon, and packs into a very neat optional box that is mounted along the side of the roof (which isn't standard), rather than the zip-up bag that is standard. It has two stiffeners back to the truck and two legs. I guy it down at the corners and also along the sides. For that I use crocodile jaw clamps onto the fabric. I think because it's from South Africa, the fabric is very durable and it provides not only shade but very effectively blocks the heat, really working as a proper protector against the sun.

Just for info and I know it's off-topic but I have quoted a monthly sim-only cost and they can be much lower than that with less data. Your numbers are similar to the UK monthly cost for a contract phone, that is, paying for the handset as well as the call/data plan. Maybe the best solution for your garage would be to run a CAT5/6 data cable out from the router in your house.