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Peaklander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Peaklander

  1. I was just about to post this photo. It isn’t very healthy. I will be looking for one locally or buying one from Global Roamer. I really don’t know what happened to this unit or when. I would like to understand because when it does get rebuilt it will owe me and I need to know what I can do to prevent it from reoccurring. I am still waiting for the parts list and cost. If it had just been the matter of replacing the two Chinese sourced bearings (6009 & 6017) then it would already be back together. This is a Naachi bearing and Schaffer also make it but it’s hard to source individually apparently.
  2. You need to be careful on two counts - the cost of importing, which isn't shown in the eBay advert and the usefulness of that gauge. When you import, the item will be held at the Post Office and you will be asked to pay the VAT, customs import fee and a handling fee. Have a read around and you will get an idea of the cost. As for usefulness, there's lots of discussion that talks about the damage that can already have happened when a water temperature gauge shows high. On the 300TDi the damaging loss of water can occur before the gauge registers. This is because the water pump sits high in the water circulation circuit and stops working early in the coolant loss 'event'. Lots of people fit a coolant level gauge at the header tank and derive an alarm off that. So whilst that gauge has an alarm, it is only derived from coolant temperature, not level, so I would save your money (and VAT and import duty & fees)
  3. If necessary I can take any bearings or seals into City Seals & Bearings in Sheffield and they will identify. Here's a few more photos, hitherto unpublished, taken as I was splitting the unit. The bearing on the sun shaft does look contaminated. It had been spinning inside the planetary housing of course, which had chewed the needles and some thrust & dog washers. Ray wants me to replace the sun shaft due to the damaged splines.
  4. I think that Series bearing has a much bigger diameter. I wrote back to Ray last week asking for a part number for it but haven't yet had a reply. I'm ready and waiting for their parts list and prices but I have the TBox off, the front 'diff' off and the hubs and swivels are fully dismantled. So there's plenty to do and the work space is full.
  5. Thanks for the detail @uninformed. I have a replacement for the missing bolt in an order coming from Paddocks. When I pick it up I guess i could grab another pair. it will be interesting to see if they are more snug in a specific swivel hole.
  6. @western It wont matter which hole it's in, it just fixes the swivel at a specific rotational position, without the variability that you would get without it. Did you notice if the special bolt was amongst the seven? Whether or not the mis-position is enough to affect tyre wear, I don't know. Edit: thanks for the link to Mike's video. I hadn't watched that. He's rather sceptical about the variability that missing-out the bolt would produce - but he fits one anyway!
  7. Hi, recently I looked at my BFG tyres and realised that the front nearside has worn more than the offside. I know that there is more than one reason for this, I could just be driving around in circles for instance. However I am changing my swivels and was checking the parts diagrams here at LR Workshop. There are seven bolts for the ball to axle. Six are identical, number 9 but one, number 10 is described as 'pin' with a shank that is a tight fit in the ball hole. I believe that this is to ensure that the ball is presented to the axle in a specific position. Guess what - on my worn side there isn't one, all seven are the same. So I think this might be the cause. I do have one on the other side. If this pin bolt precisely sets the rotation position of the ball, that is settling the castor angle I think. What does it affect, does it affect tyre wear? I know that I have pretty-much answered my own question but I'd be interested in your comments. If it's specified it must be needed and all that...
  8. You could pull that relay out easily enough and that would prove or eliminate it as the cause.
  9. Thanks @Nonimouse, I will have a look at Somerset Bearings, although I will only be sourcing the 6009, 6017 and 6205 and I guess Timken, Naachi, NTN would all be best quality. Ray says that the caged bearing at the front end of the sun shaft is hard to source as a single item but I have asked for the part number. The planet gear needles may or may not be offered as part of a kit and a kit is the way we are going for the planet unit. Ray says it will help to keep costs down and I am all for that. I doubt it will be cheap anyway. An upgraded clutch unit is to be offered too. Also thanks for your encouragement @Retroanaconda. It is going to be an expensive few weeks. Transfer Box overhaul and upgrade, front final diff upgrade, this overdrive. Oh and replacement swivels too. I repaired them once but whilst they are off I decided to go for new ones. £ouch!
  10. Actually @Happyoldgit I think that the Defender version may have started out as a cut out/off job. I think that the roof was destroyed in the changeover but then they moved to a more sensible option. Somehow I doubt the Grenadier has a bolt-on roof.
  11. The Alu-cab Icarus roof is a replacement roof. Unbolt, lift off, lift on and bolt on. It doesn't need any cutting on a 110.
  12. The planet gears are inside their housing, so I’m not sure really just what noise they were making. Trouble is, it was there all the time but a little louder with the OD engaged. Anyway I’m glad I looked as planned maintenance is always better than breakdown repair.
  13. Now it’s out, it’s clear that it’s the 6009 China bearing which is very noisy. This would be the one that I could hear. Oh how I wish it was the only problem.
  14. Oh I know. They were expected following the earlier experiences of @Snagger
  15. There is a spacer between the two sets of needles, I checked by looking at the only planet gear that I hadn't disturbed. The shafts are so worn that it will need a whole new planet assembly. I have had help again at Mister Gearbox and pressed the synchro hub off the sun shaft (not too tight) and drifted the other large bearing out of the housing (easy). So now the whole thing is disassembled. The most expensive part that I will be buying locally is a 6017 bearing, which appears to be around £65 for a good brand. The other large bearing at the bottom in that photo is a 6009 which is <£20. Ray has asked me to be patient as I wait for the parts list and costs from Global Roamer. They are completing a very large order to ship to the UK this week and after that they can look at what I will need.
  16. Contact cleaner is 'magic' stuff. I have just sprayed the little pcb and wipers inside a CRV accelerator position sensor module. There were no signs of dirt but it has cured the engine codes that suddenly started appearing. Edit: Having said that, I also sprayed the connector halves and they could just as easily have been the problem.
  17. I have one, in a new later rear door and I am happy that I think I can be seen - better 🤭 One of the studs on the glass was loose and I had to re-bond it. I bought the lamp and the adapter thing to change the mounting angle, from the JLR Classic parts website, as their prices were as good as anywhere.
  18. Some useful information in that link provided at the top by @Anderzander - Description The general function of a window is to allow light to access the vehicle's cabin as well as allowing external visibility from the cabin. It also provides means of air circulation when required.
  19. Please post a pic. That would help me decide what to buy...
  20. I'm getting through my list but it's the big money items unfortunately. 1996 110 CSW at 170K miles, now used as camper Upgrade / overhaul the powertrain - doing this now Decide which rims to use from now on - existing Boosts or unused Wolfs and get some new tyres - can't decide on rims or tyres Fit wing checker plates - already got them in stock Upgrade radio with DAB but this might need a re-hash of the Mud console layout which means a new one... & whilst I'm at it, fit tweeters at face level so I can hear the &*&^ thing If I re-do the Mud console should I get an RPM gauge or is that just bling? Make / buy a support and then mount my hi-lift jack at the back right corner Increase my solar wattage from 100W. I'm finding this to be marginal in Spring / Autumn when the days are short and the heater and fridge are both in use Have a little fettle in the 'kitchen' corner as we now have a better gas hob and it needs to be a bit more permanent. Look at the power steering oil weeps Try to locate the engine oil weep - might be the vacuum pump or oil filter mounts Get a tool roll so I'm not wrapping stuff in a towel Fit a manual switch to cross-connect Start and Aux batteries in the event of a flat battery Better security - more work on the electrical side Slight mod to my wiring to add a switch so I can swap the internal lights across from Starter to Aux when we are parked for several days (again for shoulder seasons) More hooks, nets and other storage inside ...
  21. You need to check them all! It's a real pain but their attitude to your risk is variable and the prices quoted are specific to everything about you. I am with the NFU via their local office and one of the reasons is their willingness to consider all the little mods and improvements I have done, for no extra premium. Other companies seem to rack-up the price as soon as I do that.
  22. No not crossed, just my explanation maybe. If you buy their ATB then they will fit it for £95+VAT, assuming the diff is in good running order. I don't know what their assessment is but I tried to find out how much it would cost if it requires new bearings etc and that is where they said they couldn't, they would need to see it first. I am only trying to assess the relative cost of them or me "rebuilding".
  23. The reply from Dave Ashcroft is that it is OK to fit an ATB in the front and at the same time keep an open diff in the rear. So that, together with the experience of @Tobias and other opinion means that it's a real choice for me now. Unfortunately Ashcrofts are a little guarded about the cost to rebuild. The base is £95+VAT but I don't think this includes the pinion seal or any bearings or shims. I think a max of four bearings are needed at the pinion and the two carriers. Also there's a seal or two and potentially a new pinion flange but there was no oil leak so it will probably be ok. I probably don't need to buy the shim pack if Timken bearings are being used as it 'should' go back into the same position. I have done my first checks of the current unit but will repeat them and I can't see any damage at all. There's obviously a method to learn in handling the DTI and getting it positioned securely and reliably. There's a technique to painting of the marker for the mesh test too! First results are Crownwheel runout - 0.05mm (target 0-0.10) and backlash 0.15mm (target 0.08-0.18) The mesh looks like this - now I am simply putting them out here for now. I don't know if I have enough detail to make a proper assessment or not. From what @uninformed advises, if it looks ok then I would be trying to replicate with the new setup.
  24. I haven’t had time to add the detail to the thread but I will. I have done a mesh check and will post the photos and the dti results tomorrow. I have lodged an email at Ashcrofts about the ATB and then I will be able to choose between it or open 4 pin and DIY or buy the expertise 😊
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