Peaklander

A whole new perspective on honing swirls...

I use the 97MY diagrams for my 96 300TDi 110. The PDF file format means that they are fully searchable and so very useful. As Western says, just ignore the bits that you know you don't have. So far in doing so, I have found that everything else is the same as on my vehicle and I have been through all the electrics. Edit: I do have a scan copy of the much earlier 300TDi drawings but they are virtually no use. I think the only part that I used was to look at the turn indicator warning lamp circuit (common bulb to both sides), when I was moving to LED.

This ^^^^ Some Honda CRVs are known to develop a dodgy bluetooth module, which increases drain and it needs to be removed / changed. This is frequently talked about on the CRV Facebook group. Perhaps there are known issues for the VW.

I did much the same in the back nearside corner, although I have a different panel there now. I fitted a cigarette type outlet vertically and a USB horizontally and the feeds were new ones run from the front. It's a bit cramped anyway and might be more difficult at the other side where the whole loom is presented). It is very handy to have a USB there for a phone although I have moved on to a powerbank which is even better. 😁

Yes I know that. I was suggesting that all battery derived Amp Hours are the same and so can be compared, whereas in my example, you can't compare the brightness of different types of bulbs by looking at the Watts. In the 'olden days' we could because they were all basically the same filament types but now you can't. However @Sigi_H has pointed out that the differences in battery chemistry do much the same thing for their capacities and hence the difficulty in comparing them.

@Mo Murphy thanks and yes, that's where I am in the deliberations. I said a couple of years ago that I would get the vehicle into up to "visit Iceland" condition. (crossing the highlands, not doing the circle). That is as much an arbitrary target that I set in a drive to get it right up to standard in all departments rather than a serious planned trip. Sleeping up in the lifting roof is beautiful in sultry nights but not so nice when its cild and blowing a gale. It's not far off that standard now but when I watched a few Iceland videos it seems that river crossings are to be expected and hence the questions start about water ingress (everywhere). The intake is such a gaping hole in the side that when I saw this second-hand snorkel going for the right price, I bought it without realising about the 'missing' spigot. I could seal it with neoprene strip, which I have and that might do. You are correct though. Am I and Mrs P actually going to get wet and do those river crossings on our unaccompanied trips? Perhaps a dust-proof connection is enough.

I would have thought that an AmpHour is an AmpHour as it is a direct measured unit. This is unlike something like a Watt when used to express the brightness of a lamp as then there’s the conversion efficiency from electricity to light.

I might have a go at bonding a pipe to a plate and securing that to the 'rectangular' opening. I bought it for not much money but it still seems a waste to chuck it and pay £200 for the spigot version. Then I need an improved pipe across to the airbox and fit some sort of valve to that drain too. Yes I wonder too about water getting in lower down first but it would pull into the air intake so readily, compared to smaller gaps in the battery box or door bottoms. I have a solar controller in the battery box though. Maybe that needs to be re-sited.

Some time ago I picked-up a Safari snorkel intending to fit it at some point, before I actually need it. I think it is a TD5 model "that can also fit the 300TDi". I would want it to be fully waterproof and so need to be sure that I am watertight across to the airbox, where the connection is 78mm as far as I know. The snorkel I have doesn't have a spigot, onto which a secure pipe connection could be made. I think it is intended to be sealed to the wing on the outside and then another watertight seal is made on the inside. I did see a kit somewhere for lots of ££ that sorts-out that connection to the inside face of the intake. I get the feeling that it might be difficult to do this properly and reliably. The diagram below, taken from the website of lrparts.net here, shows a 300TDi specific part which appears to have a "pipe-ready" spigot. Should I really get that? If that one is better, who uses the type I have? Maybe when water isn't the enemy and it's purely to be used as a raised air intake? I'd welcome any advice. Thanks

The difference this time though was the direction of the wind. We rarely get a 90mph storm from the north. Here whist windy, it was the snow and then ice that caused the trouble. My 95yr old father-in-law is still waiting for Openreach to come and reconnect him. The cable from house to pole was pulled down. Ours was coated in several cms of ice but fortunately it fell off before the cable.

You can always bypass the connector with a cable direct to the battery, just to check. Also clean the earth at the stud.

No, I went crazy trying to find them. Some holes are my failed attempts at locating them, hence the advice about carefully revealing and not grinding metal away.

Here's the circuit. As I say it's 97MY but I'm pretty confident that yours will be the same. If you follow the Purple wire from the fuses, it connects to the bulb in the lamp unit and with the switch in the dotted position it would complete the circuit to ground (0V) on the Black though the header joint K109 to an earth stud C556 which is actually on the engine side of the bulkhead (see the second pic). So you can see that in the ON position the lamp is not dependant on the alarm at all. EDIT: A TD5 person might come along and tweak this advice to suit your vehicle.

When I get home I will post the circuit diagram. It’s for the 300 TDI 97 model year which I think will be similar. It will be clearer then I’m sure.

No. With the Switch in DOOR position, the alarm isn't in the circuit. In this case it is fed on one side with +12V on the Purple and the circuit completes through the Black directly to earth.

Thanks guys. Was just checking 😄

My view late this afternoon. We are quite low compared to others in the Peak District. It has been a fair old dump for late November in a northerly which usually brings clear cold weather.

Me too. Is there a 'forum preferred' location? I wouldn't want to put it in the wrong place. 😉

To whet your appetite and help you decide about doing it in the cold and dark or warm and sunny, here are some of my pics, on the 110 but the same job... (I said it's hard to find the welds!) EDIT: I had previously repaired the footwell with a new piece but foolishly told myself that the foot was OK

Those feet slide up inside the A post till just above the bottom hinge. They can be replaced in situ. I did one recently on my Defender but you do need the wing off. It's difficult as you need to drill out the spot welds that join it to the post and that means finding them first. Take your time and scrap the paint very carefully and you will see the spot weld tip impressions. Don't start flap wheeling or something equally aggressive as that will remove metal and hide the marks. If you need to replace the footwell then it will be a more complete job to change the A post and the post foot, all at the same time. It's just a bit of welding. I borrowed a spot welder when I did my 88" but on my 110 I puddle-welded.

Yes it sounds as though you do need a new connector and the green box you mention is the alarm; 10AS is the name. The door switches, which still connect to ground when the doors open, are connected into the 10AS. It can therefore sense when a door is opened and it switches the light on for you but then delays the switch off to give you time to find the ignition etc. As soon as you switch the ignition on, the 10AS switches the light off. If you don't switch it on, the 10AS holds the light on for longer. On my 300TDi that is 15 secs. It's a similar action when you leave the vehicle and close the doors.

One text to say there’s been no power since sometime last night. I have no idea how they are managing but they are old enough and wise enough to cope!

My Buxton family gave up this afternoon, with no idea when their power will be restored. They dug themselves out and have come to stay here. Winyter tyres on their vehicle but not really needed now.

Daughter #2 and family stayed west of Durham last night at a pre arranged group house party. Nothing heard since arrival / no WhatsApp deliveries. Daughter #1 and family live in Buxton and had no power since overnight with plenty of snow and trees down. We have snow and an odd tree down around here. Quite a storm but still doesn’t compare with 1987 when I worked overnight near Abingdon, through the hurricane

Do you have an alarm? I don't thing that you do as it's a hardtop. Alarm means that the circuit is more complicated. If you don't have an alarm then with the switch in "ON", the lamp is earthed directly through a black cable in the loom. If it is in "DOOR" then the lamp is earthed through one or both of the door switches on the A posts, through the purple/white wire. Both of these switch positions need the "other end" of the lamp to be at +12V, alway there and fed with the purple cable. The quickest check is to provide your own earth at the lamp at the end of it that is connected to the black or the purple/white (depending on that switch position). You can do this with the switch in either position using a length of cable from a known bit of metal, touching the bulb or the connector. Just be sure that you know which end of the bulb to touch. If you get the wrong end then the fuse will blow. This will eliminate the other earth paths and will check just the power (+12V) supplied on that purple wire. If it works then it's a problem on the earth side and if it doesn't then something on the supply side is a problem.