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Peaklander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Peaklander

  1. Well yes but I would still like to get to that position. If I place anything in front of the swept ares of the windscreen wipers, my MOT tester issues a fail! So I used to remove the sat-nav sucker. Now I remove the Ram mounts. Otherwise it's a nice place to go for the test.
  2. Removing the bulb breaks the circuit and so any faulty bits are now 'out of it'. I would disconnect the wire at to the reverse lamp (green/brown), at the switch at the gearbox. Then I would apply +12V to that disconnected wire, with the bulb in place. You could pop an in-line fuse in the temporary cable. Or you could test the resistance between that disconnected cable and metalwork, without the bulb. You should see a very high resistance. If you don't then you need to follow the wire to the back end and disconnect it from the first thing you reach and measure again.
  3. That's great to hear. My engine is ready to turn over after a bit of an overhaul. I do hope that everything is in the right place and orientation.
  4. Yes the VDO Vision is nice and I already have their boost gauge. I was put-off by the gauge requirement for it, as on one UK supplier website they are quoting ££ for a compatible gauge. Probably any type K will do though. I need to get a data sheet. I like the idea of a digital gauge though because they are smaller and lighter. My Mudstuff panel is getting a bit cluttered.
  5. I am looking at Auber Instruments after following a link from a post on this forum. They do some nice panel mount displays, with a max memory and an alarm. Can buy with the probe too. Plus I can buy in $ 😜
  6. Is that because it responds more quickly due to thermal mass?
  7. Yes that is would I would get now. @Stellaghost that would be really great. Thanks. I’ll send a pm. I don’t know what that probe union thread is but a welded 1/8” angled nut would accept the whole thing.
  8. I will be second. I saw that orientation on a YouTube video and thought - "yes".
  9. Just as I discovered. It does pay to go and look, rather than just ‘assuming’.
  10. I checked my box and I have M8 x1 but also 1/8” NPT. Result! Which to use though?
  11. I am about to buy an EGT gauge with a probe (direct from the USA). I have been presented with a choice of fittings as you can see. I believe that they are often supplied with 1/8"NPT thread. I don't have a tap for that. I can specify an M8 or M10 thread and for that I do have a tap. The NPT thread is taper and I suppose that it might be more secure than M8 but then again would it? Any advice would be great. Which one would you go for?
  12. I have no experience of their offering and don't doubt your knowledge but I am rather gobsmacked to hear this. How can it be that they sell this quality of pin, yet appear to know what they are doing and remain in business and I think, are a popular supplier? Is it like the widely known distributor of almost everything, perhaps relying on volume and insufficient feedback / returns of shoddy goods?
  13. The 255/85 tyre wall size is ~217mm and a 235/85 is ~200, so that gives an increased axle height of ~17mm.
  14. Ah that's nice and was a surprise when I clicked! I haven't seen one of those before.
  15. Yes the removing that bolt on the mounting bracket would certainly help. I have a T30 for a 1/4" ratchet but it won't go in. I will need to get a t30 bent allen key. I think that I will keep the FIP as it is for now, get the engine running again and assume that I can remove the bolts and fit the spacer later, 'in-situ'. By then I may have fitted an EGT gauge which will be interesting but only if I know the 'before' temperatures too.
  16. The people that supplied my reconditioned FIP have so far honoured the warranty and recently checked the pump as I have done a topside check of my engine. I asked them about fitting this spacer and they have said "no", we don't advise, saying "The spacer puts the pump in permanent advance when it’s not supposed to be...". I'm not sure that is correct because I believe that the ring actually increases the range of the advance by allowing the timing advance piston to move further at higher engine speeds. I presume this further advances injection. I don't think that the degree of advance is changed at lower engine speed. If this is correct (please change my words if not), then I will at least tell / correct the supplier. Even so, I doubt that would change his mind. So if I fit the kit I now have, I won't have any further informal warranty support. Maybe that doesn't matter too much. Also, how do I get that rear-most torx screw out with the FIP in place? It appears to be impossible. At least I haven't fitted my front timing case yet!
  17. Thanks for the update and it's good to hear it's fixed.
  18. Have you got anywhere with this problem @L19MUD?
  19. Maybe it's my fault. I mentioned the term boost ring, knowing that it's a spacer for timing. Perhaps the brackets could be moved.. 200 / 300 TDi Dynamic timing advance spacer (boost ring). Thanks for the link @Bowie69 - that's the thread I was thinking about.
  20. This thread will be useful for someone but the OP hasn't visited since just an hour after the thread was started.
  21. Forgive the request but I can't find the thread. Recently there was discussion over the fuel pump 'boost ring' and what a difference it makes to responsiveness even without fuelling adjustments. I think @maverick and @Nonimouse had experience and commented. There is discussion on this forum and elsewhere but I seem to think that the one I can't find was simple, to-the-point and quite revealing in results. Can anyone link to it please?
  22. Ah OK thanks Ross. The winch rope slides around it, as it's pulled in and the other is a fixed length. Nothing at all like the manufactured picture then.
  23. Come on then, enlighten me. For someone who has never seen any recovery, other than with an old fashioned tow-rope in the olden days, what is the doughnut thing supposed to be used for?
  24. Yes. If you look at the circuit diagram, the RW is fed from RO which from Fuse 16. There is a connection from RO to RW in the binnacle at connector ref C223 - C332 pins 5. (see the circuit diagram). This picture comes from the Defender Electrical Library publication. You just put C223 into the search and up pops these details...
  25. When you test for power on the supply side (the +12v) you obviously put your voltmeter black onto a ground (0v) to complete the test circuit. That doesn't mean that the instrument circuit has a 0v connection. See the path on the diagram below. You need to ensure that the black go through that header joint and onto the earth stud C556 which is on the other side of the bulkhead from the instruments, high up, engine side. The earth header is here...
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