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ianmayco68

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by ianmayco68

  1. Yes it comes built into the pipes as standard and I got Pirtek to leave it there , but I haven't checked the thread as I was planning on using the original sender .
  2. Yes I can imagine , I’ll remove it I think I’m never going to fit air con . Thought it was something to do with the aircon Ralph .
  3. Cheers all, @daveturnbull did you also remove the aircon wiring as that’s not much use either ? And for 100pts does anyone know what the symbol for fuse 19 means looked on line but no joy , think it’s something to do with the aircon as a brown slate wire from that plug loops round through the 5amp fuse back to the plug .
  4. Yes I agree , already got all the bits to do that mod just using the old circuit to switch the relays for the lights . I know Landrover didn’t but is there any need to add a relay for the side lights ? I am and always will use led’s so I’m thinking not .
  5. Cheers all , yes I was surprised as well Dave it takes out a fair chunk, so thought while it’s on the bench it might as well go and make it less cluttered behind the dash . I can leave the little red plug in for now as it’s after the relay just in case it’s needed .
  6. It’s behind the binnacle or by the fuse board I think , there is another connector similar/same for the clock . It’s on the wire from the dim dip relay back to the fuse board, I think can look tomorrow.
  7. Yes I will need to speak to him about some connectors at some point , but I think he's closed his shop during lockdown as it's not on eBay . Just a thought , what about for a factory fitted alarm ? Lights flash when it goes off .
  8. Cheers western , so joining the blue/red wires together and removing everything else is fine , thought that's how it was but wanted to check . I know it's definitely factory but couldn't find it on LR Workshop either .
  9. Hi all , truck is a 300tdi 90 , so I’m rebuilding the main harness as there were loads of scotch blocks and dodgy tapping ins . I’ve stripped the harness down to its component parts and seeing as it’s here I want to completely delete the dim dip circuit, I have searched and found Dave asked the same question but wanted to check I was doing it rite before snipping away . So first question is what is this connector for and am I safe to remove it ? there wasn’t anything attached to it and I had a look on LRWorkshop but couldn’t see it, second brown/green trace wire I’m presuming is for the diode on the inner wing and safe to remove, and lastly the dim dip relay itself, from reading the only wires needed are the blue/red trace which you join together and you can safely remove the others? was worried about the blue wire here , so if anyone can confirm the above is correct or no you’ll blow yourself up you numpty 😜 I would greatly appreciate it. cheers Ian
  10. The way I’ve always drained them even at work is when you’ve finished using it for the day open the drain valve and let the air out through there it brings all the water out .
  11. Thank you . Just looked, thought I’d put the info on there but I apparently haven’t, I brought britoart cooler pipes quality seemed fine , the bloke at pirtek thought so couldn’t believe how cheap they where. I think they shortened them by 100mmish , got them to shorten the flexi bit as the steel pipes are made to go round the engine 180mm rings a bell but I’d measure them but either way they’re close to the exhaust so I’m going to lag that . Just measured them flexi bit from fixing to fixing (including them) 120mm .
  12. I think the biggest issue @Snaggerwould be fitment and would involve a lot of fabbing due to how the rads and intercooler fit differently also the longer pipes in the engine bay but might only result in minimal gains .
  13. Just a couple of pics , cleaned the vents up and did the fixings , and did the dash front which will be cut out and made removable , and you can just see the fill in pieces at the bottom will crack on with this this week and hopefully finish it I'm hoping to be able to put a glove box on the passenger side . cheers Ian
  14. I'm doing this on my project at the minute , got a thread running in the member's vehicle section Ian's project 90 there's some pics in there and info I think . I used the standard Disco pipes and cooler but I had to get the pipes shortened so took them to Pirtek , cost £50 I think .
  15. Is there not a mod you do where you plumb the wastegate into the intake manifold ? So you are measuring the boost at the intake manifold and not the turbo , I think I read it in the tech archive in white 90's tweaking the fuel pump post or one of the posts doing similar .
  16. I thought it always went belly up and took 4 times longer as Mutley said. 😜
  17. Are you having a bad day .
  18. Bit more done , windscreen vents test fitted , idea being that they'll meet in the middle then one hose down along the bottom of the dash to the bulkhead , I'll hopefully be able to put some side window demisters in there as well , also my Raptor binnacle and backing plate came so had a ply with the dash , lots of work to do there though . cheers Ian
  19. Some pics might help , as if the tub was too high you would see easily only thing off hand I can think of is are you looking at the rite holes ? As there’s 4 pic below of mine
  20. As above I've used there 3 phase machines in a work environment , worked them 12hrs a day and they never missed a beat . When I was looking for a unit a few years ago for welding at home I brought one of these Tec-Arc ones https://technicalarc.co.uk/product/prof-mig-universal/ been a good set I've welded chassis and lots of other projects and it's been fine , not used everyday and hasn't broke once .
  21. looking good James , won't be long before you have the 110 in there .
  22. whoooops didn't read all the post been in Isolation to long , great quality control .
  23. Is it the photo or does that washer look wonky ?
  24. Good point Mo , hadn't thought of that one .
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