ianmayco68

Hi all , I'm trying to find a thread that was on here recently , someone had posted a link in it to a company that sold an electronic box that enabled you to fit a puma instrument cluster to an older defender . I can't remember what the thread was called so I'm hoping that who ever posted the link will remember and post it up for me again and save me the trouble of trawling through every thread and still not finding it . yours very hopefully Ian

So a bit more done this week , and a lot of head scratching . I think I've decided to use the lower part of the dash for ease of clearance issues , but this could change as time goes on . So fist I thought it best to assemble the dash parts and check for clearance issues for those with standard dashes , only place I can see issues is with the vent mechanisms which I didn't get round to trying as other things got in the way . So welded the arms on the boxes , just used tacks and they still move freely after so no problems there . Need to paint the rod , so fitted the dash up to this point . Then fitted the wiper boxes and arms and all looks fine . As I'm fitting the vent flaps but having them fixed the operating levers aren't a problem to me , when they're painted and new genuine seals fitted they'll still be hinged as per factory look but will be fixed at the rear like this , rivnuts fitted to the flap , one each end and one in the middle then fixed under pressure to the bulkhead with these . but when all done we'll see if there strong enough , but should be fine .

I’ve been watching this thread as I’m planning on redoing the heater on my project and the 110 later but know nothing about eberspachers or Webasto . I’ve found a used thermotop z from a rover 75 zf for descent money which I believe I can fit to my 90 , and use it to preheat the truck and also run the heater off it with the help of a blower and matrix . But I need some help can someone point me in the direction to a thread we’re some one has done this and help with any other parts I would need. Cheers Ian

Cheers Steve , part of the custom dash is the vent flaps will still be fitted but not operational I'll fit new seals to the flaps then they'll be clamped down some how , I've got an idea but not tried it yet . So I wasn't going to fit the black steel back plate ( I will once the wiper's are all finalised to see if it can be done by people with a standard dash ) but I'm now thinking of fitting it and bolting the wiper motor to that and altering it as needed to fit the dash parts . I was intending to be on it this weekend but I ended up finishing off a few odds and sods to get them done , so hopefully next weekend . But as we thought using the later style wheel boxes is a lot easier and better than the older type as the bulkhead holds the wheel box in position , it just means you have to file the hole out to suit with a rotary file .

Looking good western , what cb’s that western I’m looking to buy one but can’t make up my mind which one ?

Yes I think your rite on that one , when I brought the complete mechanism of ebay the original rubber gromits were in the plate so I can use them or upgrade to something more substantial if needed .

I think there imperial ballcock, what ever size is between 12/13mm , I think you can turn the cold side housing to match the defender one but I’m not sure on this . The chra what I fitted and discussed here was larger in the fact it was an 11 blade design and lighter not a 9 blade as a standard one .

I was referring to new hybrid versus new vnt. Should have been clearer..

Forgot all about this thread , how bad is it ballcock? As this was for an uprated chra cost £275 from turbo rebuild off eBay. But my opinion for what it’s worth , if you’re buying a new turbo then I’d go for a vnt one , as there’s not much in the price, if you’re fitting a new chra and doing it yourself then yes , turbo spools up quicker and gives more lower down .

It has surprised me how much it cools down the air though , it will be interesting when the weather warms up ( hoping ) to see how much the temperature drop is then .

I thought that the idea was the cooler the air the denser it is therefore the more oxygen it contains making bigger bangs, equaling more power . So lowering the pressure to achieve lower output temperatures would achieve this .

Hi all , not done anything on this for a while as I've been trying to get other stuff done and I need to get cracking on it so I've drawn up a plan and so the weekends now are dash orientated . Right was originally planning to try and use the disco 1 frame but on trying it was a no go , and I brought some later wheel boxes opened the bulkhead holes out which was easy enough but you just need to take your time and do it slowly , I'm glad I did as the wheel boxes fix themselves to the bulkhead and there's no need for any extra . So even though I didn't use the disco frame I've used the parts off it , the operating rods have nice brass bushes in them so should aid the smoothness of the new system and the arms down from the wheel boxes were the right length and have nice pegs on them so can retain the rods with a c clip . As you can see above the bushes also these are set to run as a pair back to back , but the disco set up has the motor in the middle of the rods so had to knock the pin out of one of the arms and out of the arm that fits on the motor and swap them over . The holes the other end were opened out to 10mm and were taped onto the wheel boxes , they are snug but a blob of weld might be needed to stop them slipping . I've done it like this as not having access to a lathe and such the pins out of the disco setup are far better and squarer than I could have made . This is a shot of the wheel box over the passenger side and shows why I had to change round the pins . Next is a couple of shots of the arms fitted in , I had to lengthen the middle rod to 572mm that's center to center of the wheel box spindles . And finally one of were the motor will fit but a need to make a mount for it . I'm thinking that I really need to get the windscreen in so the wiper arms/blades will sit against the screen correctly so I can set it up correctly and test it . The motor isn't a problem as the arm can be set in any position , as you tighten a nut down and the arm locks against splines on the motor shaft to stop it slipping . The plate is off the disco set up I might use it as the holes for the motor are already there and weld some legs to it so it can be fixed to the bulkhead .

So the below ambient output temperature is due to the pressure drop in the intercooler , do you think that Allisport mean to do this in there intercooler design to achieve lower temperatures on the output side ? I would think they do , as they are a motorsport company , and is that the difference between the more expensive intercoolers and the cheaper Chinese ones or even standard and front mounted ones ? Also I've seen twin pass intercoolers on eBay does anyone think they would make any difference ?

I’ve wondered this , the day before I switched it on and had 0.8c on the output I actually moved the probe to another socket to see it was working right , all the same readings. But if you notice the outside temperature dropped when moving , and I’m pretty sure it dropped down to as low as 4c but it’s hard to see whilst driving. I’m sure some scientificy type person could explain this , I forgot what I knew years ago when I left school .

Cheers all put it back together today and all seems fine , so can fit it to the 90 now .

Got some more figures today , outside temperature was 5.8 c moving, 6.6c stationary in a shed but an open one no doors . So accelerating hard to 60mph , in was 88c and out was 8.3c . Town style driving 36.8 in and2.6 out that was doing 40mph .

Cheers will tap it back together at the weekend.

Cheers James , it was how easy it came apart that was worrying not that it came apart I gathered that they were meant to come apart but didn’t think it should do that easy . Unless I was taping it in just the right place , I’ll knock it back together and see how it feels then .

Hi all , trucks a 110 200tdi , I was replacing the uj’s on the steering shaft this morning as I had some movement in it and thought the top uj had gone . I was taping the new one on the shaft gently and the shaft parted into its two halves , is this normal or is the shaft buggered ? Luckily I had the one off the 90 which I hadn’t fitted yet so put that one on the 110 as I need it for work . It seemed to come apart very easy so I’m starting to wonder if there was some movement in the shaft . And if it is buggered and I need a new one can you upgrade it to one of the latter shafts off a td5 or tdci of are they weaker or not as good as the ones off a 200/300 tdi ? Any help much appreciated cheers Ian

Really Maverik, I’ve got them on the 110 and had no problems with them at all and when I stripped the 300tdi everything came apart fine . But I have had problems with bullets getting them apart and bad connections , haven’t seen the Lucar ones mmgemini will have look at those .

I’ve had a loom from Autosparks and it was good , HRW is heated rear windscreen so not needed in your case . You could replace the bullet connectors ( which are a pain ) for econoseal connectors like they use on the later 300tdi , but remember that you’d need to fit econoseal connectors to the back of your lights if you still have the originals fitted , I can’t see there being major differences between them but I’m no expert only other thing is there are a few other sub looms for the heater and the brake fluid level which you could get and new battery cables.

You’re a star Maverik , mines a 200tdi I thought that would work but wanted to check just to be sure. I replaced the seal and balls are good.

Hi all , in a bit of a spot , was replacing the swivel ball bearing and upper pin got it all back together came to put the one shot grease in was merrily squeezing it in and and the bloody bag split and it went all over the floor. Not a lot went in so what else can I put in to get me by too I can get some as I need the motor Monday ? Should have brought a spare .

I’ve no idea , I thought I’d read somewhere that later Defenders used it but could be wrong , it was just another idea as no one seemed sure .

It isn’t that adblue stuff is it ?