ianmayco68

That's the plan Ed , engine's being totally rebuilt , fuel injection pump and injectors rebuilt by a diesel engineer friend asked him to tweak the pump when he calibrates it as he can set it up much better than I can , I need to replace the chra in the turbo as that was knackered anyway . The question about the intercooler was more whether a bigger one is really needed or do we fit them because were told there better , I started thinking about this after reading Daan's testing that he did . In theory we tweak the pump then throw a big intercooler on because that's what were told , there's no results published anywhere that backs up this , also I might be wrong in my thinking on this , but you tweak the pump which puts in more fuel which If my thinking's right means you need more air , so you fit a bigger intercooler which cools the air down lower and makes in denser , but I've not heard of anyone increasing the size of the intake pipes to feed the gigger intercooler or feed more air into the engine , so is a bigger intercooler actually worth spending £500 on ? Or would it be better to increase the pipe work to 3'' and run the standard intercooler ? I'm no expert on this and I could be talking total rubbish but after rebuilding the 110 , which was my 1st project and spending cash were I probably didn't need to because I was new to this and a bit naïve I've started reading up on stuff a lot more with this project and questioning whether parts we fit are useful or just there for the bling factor .

Having read your post and reading some other posts I agree with your thinking , I think a lot of the time we tend to believe what companies tell us even when there isn’t any data provided to back it up , the only data I’ve seen is what you provided which showed the standard intercooler to be pretty effective. The 300tdi 90 I’m rebuilding will become a daily driver while I want to improve it I’m looking to do it for as least as possible, at the end of the day it’s a Defender and I’m loathe to spend thousands to get it knicked . I’ve had the fip tuned up by 10% by the bloke who’s serviced the fip pump , the turbo had quite a lot of play in it so I’m replacing the chra with an upgraded one and was looking at improving the cooling the intercooler in the link is only £100 so not expensive but I might try what you did 1st , by changing the intercooler outlet and manifold inlet pipes to 3” . The thermocouples you used do you get the digital readouts with them when you buy them ? Just found them on eBay.

Not much done on this project as I've been trying to get the main project to the point were this becomes more easy , but hopefully by the time Christmas is over I'll be ready to push on with this . So as I couldn't get any old td5 wiper boxes I ordered some new ones of ebay , did a bit on it this morning prised the cog off the inside with a scraper which was pretty easy , I actually think the weak link in the wheel box is the cog and how it's mounted and when removed and an arm welded on I think they will last a hell of a lot longer , as all the knackered ones I've seen move pretty freely still . the holes in the bulkhead will need some opening out , well more elongating a small die grinder should work okay . And when I brought the disco 1 wiper mechanism I got the whole caboodle , so was thinking of using the frame and mounting the wheel boxes in this , a quick pic The motor bolts on to the frame and the arms will need cutting down so they fit , so in theory everything will bolt to the frame and then the wheel boxes will push through the bulkhead in the usual way and the 2 nuts will secure it , it might need some more bracing I'll post some better photo's up over Christmas when I've got all the other bits done

Cheers Snagger will have a go at balancing the pistons , found a video on youtube , seems quite easy to do just need a set of those small scales , not quite sure about drilling the insides of the pistons but must be safe as he was doing it . The intercooler above has 3'' inlet and outlet tubes so was thinking of making the inlet on the manifold bigger to match something that Dann mentioned in his testing , that the small outlet on the intercooler limited the flow .

If you're planning on having a go yourself watch these videos from Land Rover toolbox , videos explain it better than photo's . https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=replacing+the+swivel+balls+on+a+defender&qpvt=replacing+the+swivel+balls+on+a+defender&view=detail&mid=FA3C2D49D696131BB849FA3C2D49D696131BB849&&FORM=VDRVRV There's quite a few , about 8 or 9 episodes explaining everything step by step .

Haven’t done the job yet , that’s planned for the weekend will post some pics up in my build thread . Wasn’t too bad when I did the 110 though.

Can’t say whether the labour is reasonable, but I’ve just brought those parts to rebuild the front axle on my 300tdi project and from memory 2 swivel ball kits oem quality £240 mitex discs & pads £50/£60 I think so about £300 for the parts , some one with more experience will probably know if the labour is fair , hope this helps. cheers Ian

Hi all , it’s got to the time on my project 300tdi 90 to start thinking about the engine , front axle should be on this weekend to a finish, fuel injection pump and injectors have gone off to a friend for a full refurb and he’s upping the fip pump by 5% for me when he calibrates it . So my thoughts turned to the intercooler, having read quite a few posts off this forum and in particular Daan’s post were he actually took readings of the temperatures at the inlet and outlet pipes I’m starting to think that the standard intercooler is pretty efficient and spending great wads on shiny big ones, although they’re very well made, is probably not necessary and I’m starting to think one like this is a better option https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FMIC-Front-Mount-Intercooler-600-x-300-x-76mm-Bar-Plate-Same-Side-76mm-In-Out-/153121119759 whats others thoughts on this ? Also while some of the parts are at the engine place I’m using is there any other upgrades that would be worthwhile having done, like crankshaft balancing, I know it won’t make it quicker but it might make it run smoother. Any thoughts from everybody are most welcome. cheers Ian

I agree with monkie and fridge , personally I wouldn’t risk it , after the cheap Chinese go pro incident we had . Where the stepson put it on charge and it melted the wall socket , would rather have a cold truck to get into than a black charred one .

Hi Wontakelong, sorry can’t open your document but have identified some of the wires in your photos, orange/black trace alarm sounder relay to alarm sounder unit white/pink trace diagnostics socket to Ecu egr pink/black trace egr temp sensor to ecu egr and egr solenoid and throttle position sensor white/light green trace from diagnostics socket to egr ecu blacks earth thats according to the wiring diagram I’ve linked to above . a few of the others I can’t make out , the red and green wires with the bands round don’t look factory , have you got an after market alarm or central locking fitted ? As that wiring looks similar to what I’ve seen from those type of units .

Try this wiring diagram http://duud.ee/LR-manualid/300Tdi_Wiring_Diagrams.pdf One of the wires looks like orange/black trace this according to the above goes from the alarm sounder relay to the sounder .

I’ve got a 300tdi that I’m rebuilding at the moment, the wiring loom is out the truck and in a box so if you can take some photos of the engine bay we’re y think the wires have been pulled from and identify some of the wiring colours in that pile in your photo I might be able to help . I’m not 100% sure but some of that looks like it’s been added by someone . cheers Ian

Cheers Bowie , did the V8’s have an in tank pump then ? Through me because I would have expected it to be near to the front of the harness with the tank being under the drivers seat , at lease I can make use of it .

Hi all , started to make a new chassis harness for my project 300tdi today and came across a couple of plugs in between the left hand and right hand lights and I can’t understand why they’re there, one is a econoseal with a black wire and a green/ black trace wire and the other is a black round plug with a black wire and a white/purple trace wire . After looking at the wiring diagrams I found the green/ black wire is for the fuel gauge/sender and the white/purple is for the fuel pump , why a 300tdi doesn’t have one ? And I know a ROW rear harness may have the sender at the rear but mines an M reg so should have a standard harness, but why is the fuel pump wiring there ? One of the reasons for asking is I’m thinking of fitting an electric lift pump , like I have on my 200tdi and wondered if I could use the white/purple wire to power it . Any help much appreciated as always cheers Ian

Nice one Ralph. .

Re-used mine when I did the 110 not had any problems .

Looks good , a bit like thermals for a Land Rover .

Looking good .

Try eBay, just put stainless spire bolts in and quite a few sets and others came up .

Looking good Ralph .

.

Haven't used them from the blue box company , I replaced both my wings when I did my 200tdi 110 and I brought mine from SP 4X4 http://www.sp-4x4.com/ https://www.sp-4x4.com/LAND_ROVER_DEFENDER_200TDI_FRONT_OUTER_WING_90_110_p/rtc6352.htm They were fine fitted well , with no problems and I'm happy with them also they're slightly thicker than the originals .

Well done toenden , hadn’t cleaned the holes out one was clean and other had crud in the holes so fitted the crudy holes one on the rear . Never thought about the holes, cheers all for the help. Ian

Not a bad idea , if all else fails I'll have a look tomorrow cheers .

Are these any good ,