ianmayco68

Nice one ,

Morris moly grease , sells it on eBay in tubes you just slot them in your grease gun and squirt away I use it on mine . Brought it because we used it when I worked maintenance in a foundry and the gaffer and works engineer said it was good .

Do you mean these Dan ? https://yrmit.co.uk/product/seatbelt-to-chassis-bracket-hot-dip-galvanised-land-rover-defender/

I used the ReedX.net post when I did mine , but found this for you should give you a bit of an idea what to do . It really is a good and simple mod and with me being tall makes it a lot easier to operate. He’s done it on a puma , but there is more room on the older defenders.

Got my hand brake there, makes it a lot easier to use.

Put these in my build thread but thought I'd put a couple in here in case no one's seen it . Did the wings the other day am well liking the colour and got the finish good I think . Have got a few runs in the lacquer what's the best way to deal with them ?

Very nice .

I can't really say for the 90 , I have a 110 csw and the one I removed from mine was secured to the front of the tub behind were they door striker fixes to , through the floor of the tub , then at the rear were it went through the tub floor it bolted to a post which bolted to the back of the rear cross member , but I would imagine it would be pretty similar . Can dig the one out of the 110 one I have and post a photo up for you if you would like , would probably give you a better idea of what I'm waffling on about .

Hi Tony welcome to the mad house , have you brought just the gearbox or have you brought the Land Rover tdci with a 6 speed box ? If the former did the old box clunk ? But I’m guessing it’s the latter , if so I’d check the uj’s on the propshafts and then check for play in the drive flanges on each wheel 1st . cheers Ian

The rear seat belts normally bolt to a frame that bolts to each side of the tub like this https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=defender+90+rear+seat+belt+bar&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari#imgdii=1Obmg5VRCeWv0M:&imgrc=lngQkkKd6rcvwM: I’m not certain but I would think that you would need this frame to bolt them to for safety reasons , but I would imagine that this would depend on how the MOT ( vehicle road worthyness ) works in Finland . Cheers Ian

One of the lads in the Land Rover club I’m in brought a box off these guys http://www.greenboxlighting.co.uk/products it’s the one in the tool box it’s got various ways to charge the battery up inside , from the truck , charger , solar panel you can also plug an inverter into it . One of the other lads was going to have a go at knocking one up himself, which is doable , and handy for camping .

Another alternative , the stepson on his L200 wired in 2 small led work lights at bumper level that came on when he selected reverse , don’t know if you could make a bracket to bolt to the bumper or tow bar maybe .

Thank you , still got the pearl coat and lacquer to go on top yet . Cheaper than a body shop but the paints not cheap was £150 for 5 litres that’s why I wanted to get it rite and not bugger it up .

Can’t help on a reversing light but I use my led work light for reversing at night works a treat .

Thank you all the advice is much appreciated , so did the test spray with the ground coat on the underside of the bonnet , mixed as said on web site 50/50 basecoat thinners and went on lovely . Some pics below, was slightly worried with the mix ratio as this paint ain’t cheap. cheers Ian

+1 for the Portasol , great bit of kit . Don’t forget some spare tips as well .

Is it a 110 ? If it is have you checked the fuel return , it goes into the top of the tank on the 110 and it’s metal , could that be loose or corroded? Long shot but a possibility. Ian sorry just saw tank under the seat

I haven’t done this yet Mike , as I’m waiting on sp4x4 to get some of the bits I need back in stock before I place an order and I’m fitting new galv steel skins but I was going to use marine bond to seal the frame and skin back together. cheers Ian

I thought that but says so in this link https://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1712 Perhaps it’s because it’s a polyester paint ? many thanks for all the help Eightpot think I’ve got it sorted in my head now , it’s much appreciated.

I’m spraying in a big shed with roof lights so that’s one thing I’ll have plenty of , and the paint I’ve got is mixed 50/50 with basecoat thinners ground coat and pearl coat , I’d planned to do the underside of the bonnet 1st to get the hang of this paint , was planning on sand undercoat flat , wipe off the couple of basecoat then sand flat then a last coat of basecoat then the pearl . Do two coats of that sand flat then a final coat then straight on with the clear coat , does this sound about right ? Only planned on doing a few panels at a time so I can try and get them spot on . cheers Ian

Yes know what you mean , now I’ve got 2 and the 90’s for mostly road use I keep thinking about stuff I want to change and do on the 110 , and like you I work shifts mornings and afternoons and a lot of the time I just can’t be bothered or I fall asleep .

Cheers Scott , know what you mean gives you a great feeling when people ask and then they find out you’ve sprayed it yourself , won’t be far off you being at this stage either .

Thank you , hope I can do it justice . Cheers Eightpot, I’d read about getting shadows and not looking the same in a diy guide I found , so the plan was I’ve got a good sized table and room to hang doors and the like from a beam if need be , so I was going to lay the parts out and stand at the bottom of each panel (as it is on the truck) and spray right to left . Cheers Scott, I’m hoping to get a good finish that hopefully only needs polishing, the epoxy primer I’ve used seems good stuff never heard of it before , you can get a real smooth finish with a bit of wet and dry .

Cheers both , I think where I’ve got confused in looking for a compound specifically for buffing. Polyester Eightpot , it’s a 3 stage paint basecoat, pearl then lacquer, trucks totally stripped will spray each part then buff the seen surface . Would you advise a wet sanding with 2000 grit paper 1st ? Cheers Ian

Hi all , as some will know I have just started spraying my project , I’m spraying it Rioja red pearl which is a polyester paint . So what’s best to use to buff the paint out after putting the clear coat on ? I’ve watched a few videos but most are American and probably years old but they don’t actually name the compounds they use and I haven’t got a clue were to start , I’ve found a sealey variable speed buffer on eBay and I know I need the waffle pads for polishing, so what compounds have people used to buff and then polish the new paint out ? Any links to products or companies that sell what I need would be much appreciated , as I want her to look good when it’s done . cheers Ian