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MartinM

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Everything posted by MartinM

  1. I have a 2010 RRS (L322) TDV8 - I think it’s had the air suspension compressor replaced twice from new - usually you get odd messages like forward alert not available (which also means cruise control won’t work). Other issues can arise with stability system (message then is stop vehicle) that can be a low fluid level in the stability system. Not necessarily either of this is the case here if you’re not getting error messages so maybe there’s other resistance in the set up (shock absorbers possibly) Sorry not a definitive answer but may help eliminate or de-prioritise certain options.
  2. Have found that the fan runs with or without the control wire connected but a replacement fan doesn't suffer the same problem of constant run on IG1 position wheb connected. Unfortunately it's a pre 99 one and the connector on the control wire has a different plug style. I'll update further when I manage to replace the fan with a later valeo unit (or hack the wiring on the one I have).
  3. I can't speak for the RR Sport detachable, but I have a Witter detachable towbar on our Suzuki GV. It is possible for the pin and handle to get out of sync and as a result the bar won't go in. Try pulling the handle all the way back till it clicks so the pin is retracted. In theory you should be able to insert it easily and press the release button. It might be worth check for any grit in it too. If in doubt though it would be worth popping into your local towbar specialist or LR Dealer as what you are describing is not usual - but probably simply fixed by someone with the right "nack"!! Martin Medforth
  4. Thanks David, This morning the flashing light problem when A/C switched off "issue" has gone away so I guess your note about temperature challenges (it was warm yesterday) make sense. I can also confirm that having taken the left hand fan offline by removing RL7 I know that the HEVAC is controlling the RH blower just fine. I haven't confirmed whether the HEVAC treats left and right blowers separately - but all in your point that it might be a wiring issue seems to make sense. I think that it probably needs me to take the fan out and look at the internal wiring. I've refound an entry on rangerovers.net (user Werner from early January) which suggests that it might be that the circuit board in the back of the unit. Obviously all I need is a spare fan to test! (though I'm not thinking of taking the RH one out to confirm the issue is with the unit!! - LOL) However - at least there's enough logic flouting around for a bit more constructive fault elimination! I'll update when I know more. Martin
  5. After no problems in ages the Book Symbol came on on the HEVAC on my 2000 MY Vogue and at the same time the Left hand side blower decided it was on (always). Putting Faultmate on I cleared the initial legacy errors and now have two faults permanently on both being left hand blower motor stop mode fault (28) - with error 1 being in memory and error 2 being current. Clearing these faults has no effect (i.e. they return!) I have checked RL7 and it seems as fine as you could expect on vehicle of this age. No loose pins and no sign of overheating. Equally the fuse box looks superficially clean and dry - though dismounting it might reveal ancient damp corrosion. Swapping RL7 and RL6 around has no effect on the problem of blower running on left hand side (even with ignition in number 1 position) so I guess it's not a faulty relay. I'd read somewhere that the soldering on the blower can become "dry" and cause this sort of problem, but I suspect that resoldering that would be a DIY job too far for me - even assuming I can work out how to remove the not inconsiderable lump from behind the glove box. Another view was that crud can accumulate around the cabin temperature sensor below the clock giving false reading - I've tried blowing into it but that makes no difference. Otherwise I'm wondering if this might be new HEVAC control time as on Faultmate the heater core temperature reading seem to like 6662 C (or there abouts)as a reading - though I watched go from 81 to 26 to 14 to 6,600 ish where it stays. One other thing - when I press the A/C off switch the button press light flashes rather than stays on! Though most of the functionality still seems to be fine - including cooling and heating. For the moment I have removed RL7 to stop the blower running constantly. Obviously any thoughts would be appreciated on this, though I realise that problems in this area are notoriously difficult to diagnose. Thanks, Martin
  6. G2s are, I think, closer to OEMs but sold as being more durable so you may find that the ride differences are not as noticable. The G3s are designed to run with a lower spring rate off road and a higher one in highway mode (above 50mph) - almost the opposite to OEMs. That said I have no experience of G2s and being a techie was rather drawn to the concept of there being an element of "improvement" in the G3s rather than the G2s. Worth checking the Arnott website for details at www.arnottindustries.com. Whatever, if you go for Arnotts you shouldn't need to buy any more as they all come with a "lifetime" guarantee - i.e. if they spring a leak (unless they are maliciously cut!) you ought to get an exchange, though I'm not sure whether you'll get the "satisfaction" exchange that they apply in the US. Probably also worth a chat with Andy Iles at P38 Spares if you are undecided. Picking up on your comment about mild laning at worst and the fact that your wife appears to have taken on ownership I suspect I'd go for G2s personally. The G3s are "different" - and I suspect a bit "marmite" so to speak. My other half doesn't have much of an opinion but oddly tends to prefer her Suzuki GV "on road" as she reckons the ride is smoother - I however beg to differ for reasons stated above related to the powerplant setup (which incidentally gives me about 18 mpg on LPG - though not when in sport mode! Pity you aren't nearer to Herts else you could come and play with my bus before you decide! Martin
  7. The Arnot G3 are, in my opinion better if you are wanting to a) keep the truck and b) want versatility (i.e. want off and on road performance). On a 2001 P38 I'd say (all things being equal) that you are going to keep it on b) only you can say. The set up I adopted was Arnott G3s and Bilstein Shocks. Overall the performance off road is better as the G3s move with rough terrain rather better than the dunlops. This leaves you "hanging in the air" rather less and, imho, produces better traction. On road the vehicle is more balanced - though if you are looking for the armchair effect - and don't want the improved off road performance - then OEM is probably better. That said I have a JE uprated V8 in mine which works well up to 5k revs and quite honestly if I wasn't on Arnotts I'd probably be scared Nevertheless - like any "sportier" set up - it is firmer. UK wise Andy Iles at P38 Spares is a reliable Arnott agent - and can also supply OEMs cost effectively. Hope that helps Martin
  8. Seem to recall I had similar problems with one of my rear one's and the advice about WD 40 and leverage is good. Also found a "rust brush" useful. Mine took about 40 mins of sustained effort but came clear in the end. I can recommend Arnot Gen 3s - though they do produce a rather different ride (actually I think better). Andy Iles at P38Spares is an agent here in the UK so no need to import from the US. All the best Martin
  9. Of course all this assumes it doesn't break further!!
  10. Well the blow on the drivers side is clear now, and having determined that the maf sensor seems to behaving ok it's looking like it could be the head gasket. Though its not drinking coolant and all is still pressurising ok, so it may be the exhaust manifold gasket. Probably going to limp up to Coventry to JE as the truck has their low restriction cats on. Their fixed price (850) for doing both sides is the same as the "starting from" price from my local independent. I'll update this to close when I get more news.
  11. I went with Orange polybushes on my P38. Overall I think it's improved handling off road. However, I would recommend not fitting polys to the panhard road. I did and found that I got intermittent front end judder at 55mph plus specifically when catching some rough road. Cured this by going back to oem rubber on the panhard. That said this may not be the case for all p38s ... certainly polybush were surprised when I raised this with them, though my local industry said it wasn't the first time they'd had to remove polybush from a panhard. My truck is on Arnott gen 3s and bilstein shocks. maybe on oem airbags and shocks this is less of an issue. Martin.
  12. For what it's worth I replaced all four of mine about 18 months ago for Arnott Gen 3's. They were about the same cost as I'd have paid for OEM if I'd gone to a dealer (though you'll get OEM's cheaper from Rimmers). The Gen 3s do give a different ride - though I'd have to say that the "harder off road" may not be to everybodies taste. Overall the originals had been on for about 8 years - one had developed a slow leak and was on advisory as yours. I used Arnotts as they were reported as a good upgrade and have a whole of life guarantee (though as always not sure you'd get much comeback in 10 years time!!) Hope this helps
  13. OK - so I'll leave the leads as is! I'm using one of Blackbox Solutions MSV Extreme units which is good at reporting information. Accessing the engine ECU there are readings for running with reports for each cylinder for misfires and rough running. I have 0 against all (no misfires) but a roughness figure that runs up to about 4.7-5.0 (not sure what units) for cylinders 1 and 7 and intermittent roughness on cylinder 2 up to about 2.4 ish. All other cylinders report clean. Need to check what the Oxygen sensors are reporting, but I appreciate what you are saying that this is a report of a symptom rather than a cause! I'll see if there is anything on the Blackbox Forum regarding this! And whatever happens I'll update this post!
  14. Not sure I would go to the £5k end (though thats a fully rebuilt and guaranteed engine) ... though as the rest of the car is known condition it may be easier than buying another truck and starting from scratch on Aircon, EAS, shocks, bearing, exhaust, etc etc etc etc Sequencing is confusing - VogueSE39 seems to suggest Bulkhead 7 8 5 6 3 4 1 2 Radiator I have Bulkhead 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Radiator Elsewhere I think I've seen what I have which is that the LH side is the NEARSIDE on RHD and the RH side is offside (i.e. as viewed from rear). Certainly that's the way LH and RH works on info centre for doors and windows. Truck doesn't misfire but reports rough on 1, 2, 7 with 2 being about half as bad as 1 and 7. Any chance others could advise on HT wiring sequence - or tell me which section of the manual I need to RTFM!?? Like the idea of garden spray with petrol! (suspect not that brave or stupid!!) Thanks
  15. Well that has to be a good start as the leads have back to front already - though it maybe we are wrong at both ends (i.e. distribution cap and cylinder banks)- we'll go back to first principles on this ... as usual the Workshiop Manual is less than clear - maybe I've not find the right page! Only thing is that the vehicle is running albeit with the roughness and odd power distribution. I'm using a set of leads from P38 Spares - their reference GW102 which is for the Thor - that said the ones I took off were really green and not as tight a fit on the plugs as these are so not sure what they were! Air leak sounds likely - its a periodic (rev related) "psst" sound though it becomes more throaty under higher revs which is why I'm tlking manifold - any thoughts where the seat might be if it's not an exhaust manifold gasket? (The manifold was replaced two years ago as it had corroded and was blowing - but the sound this time is different!) Really appreciate the feedback - facing anything between a £1.5k to £5k bill at JE is motivating a bit more play around with this and this is helpful! Martin
  16. Recently serviced the old bus and changed the spark plugs and ht leads because they were a tad corroded. To cut a long story short afterwards I have "enhanced rough running" so to speak on cylinders 1 and 7 (up to about 4.5 on my MSV Extreme - Testbook equivalent) and slight roughness on cylinder 2 (about 2.5). All others are running with 0 rough and the whole is reporting 0 misfires. ALOT WORSE THAN BEFORE I TOUCHED IT!!!!! To add to the fun its also now developed a whistling blow on the drivers manifold (possibly unrelated). I need to put the MSV Extreme back on and check the MAF readings as I have heard adirty sensor can cause rough irregular running, but the exhaust manifold is a pain as I only replaced that about 20 months ago. Just thinking this might be something serious though (head gaskets, porous block etc) ... does anyone have any thoughts before I troll over to a Landrover "specialist" who will doubtless change every part on the car before telling me I need a new engine!!! Mileage is 100.5k and its a 4.6 Thor (MY 2000). If the concensus is it's not good news then I'd be tempted just to take it to JE Engineering who are good, if a bit pricey. Before we go too far though can anyone confirm that the LH cylinders are on the passenger side (perversely the rhs when working on it from the front) and the sequence is 1, 3, 5, 7 from front to back with 2,4,6 and 8 on drivers side? I'd be a right dumbo if I've connected the HT leads sequenced arse over tip! Martin
  17. You might find it help contacting Martin Toole who has stripped a number of P38s of the same vintage. He trades on eBay as r-r-parts-ltd. He's s good guy and very fair on pricing. Just because he isn't advertising the exact item doesn't mean he hasn't got it. Best of luck.
  18. Not sure what you mean by a MK3 SatNav, my 2000 MY P38 has a CARIN unit which can get a bit upset if disconnected, or if out of satellite range whilst being worked on. What I have found though is that disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes and then reconnecting gives the system long enough for the SATNAV to forget itself and then do a clean reboot. Possibly this would be worth a try (assuming you have your radio code at hand and know how to re-enter it!) Otherwise, you may find a word with a wires guru like Steve Buck at James French in Abingdon would solve the problem. I personally haven't need to consult him, but a friend has and says what Steve and the team don't know about electric related stuff isn't worth knowing. All the best Martin
  19. My 2000 P38 4.6 with about 99k on the clock varies depending on what sort of journey I'm doing. Certainly I can see (from a reset) up to 26 miles per gallon if I'm simply doing clear motorway work and on a reasonable 28 mile commute (combined local and motorway work) I tend to average out at about 19.5 over a period of a week doing nothing aside from the commute. I did fit an ITG Maxgen Airfilter in place of the original and this seemed to improve consumption by up to 10%. Round town it tends to be closer to 15mpg - and towing the horse trailer (laden) means the average falls to 10 to 14 (again depending on whether this is short or more sustained distance work) which I'm still quite happy with (or at least was before petrol went over the 120p per litre price.) I still tend to think the V8 burns fuel as a function of time rather than anything else (though maybe this isn't the case if you travel at 70mph rather than 65!) I have been reluctant to go to gas because of the up front cost, but I'm beginning to think again about this - however if it means falling from say 19 to 10 MPG for the commute then the benefit is maybe not so good. I'd be interested to know what you get after you gas yours! Keep us updated. Thanks Martin
  20. To be honest - I don't know - though I have no reason to believe it was anything but the original (2000) original. Certainly I hadn't touched it since owning the vehicle which I acquired with about 65,000 miles on the clock three years ago. The vehicle now has about 94,000 on the odo so I think we just have to accept it was 10 year old plastic which had just gone round and round too many times. That said I don't know (without checking) when, if at all, the service schedule recommends replacing the fan! If it does - maybe this had been missed
  21. Just a quick update I'm just about sorted - sourced a second hand bonnet P38 from Martin at Range Rover Classic Parts (Near Southampton) for not much and hoping that it'll be sprayed up and ready to go later this week. I'm still looking for the cover for the auxiliary drive belt - but have all the other cowling (and it does make a difference to running without). As to the reason this happens - I guess I will just have to accept that rapid acceleration of a V8 can lead to breaking something. - DOH!! Guess we all have to remember that, at best, a P38 is a collection of parts flying along in very close formation ... any major move outside of designed tolerances leads to catastrophy! Thanks for your support ... and anyone else wanting a bonnet for a P38 get in touch with Martin (though, Sotal, he hasn't got one in Oxford Blue at the moment!) Regards Martin M
  22. Thanks for quick response... I've already picked up Fan, Radiator, Cowling and Drive Belt from Andy at P38 Spares. You don't have a cover for the aircon unit ... that went as well but I suspect they are a really odd part to source (so far no luck). Actually it's only a helath a safety item so - bearing in mind that I tend not to put my hands into it when it's running I'm not that bothered. Regards MM
  23. I had the scary experience of the fan disintegrating whilst accelerating hard. The devestating result was the fan effectively exploded, destroying the cowling above and sending shrapnel into the radiator - the top hose actually severed - and up under the bonnet leaving a nice hilly range across the middle of the bonnet. Reason for this posting - aside from wondering if others have ever experienced similar - is to sound out whether anyone knows of a unloved bonnet for a p38 - 2000 MY preferably in Alveston Red. Appreciate this is a really long shot but a straight forward swap may end out cheaper than a bodyshop fix. Before you ask, no my insurance doesn't cover body damage resulting from mechanical failure. Probably there's no hurry for this as the extra kinks will doubtless make a feature for awhile - but ultimately I am thinking I would like to tidy this up! Martin
  24. I have a 2000MY P38 4.6 Vogue which does a mix of activities between standard highway work but with a high proportion of towing work (Ifor Williams HB511 with up to 1.2 tonnes of horses) as well as also being no stranger to off road field work around the farm. So far I have uprated the EAS with Arnott Gen 3 bags and polybushed all round (on Polybush recommendation) with Orange Dynamic bushes. This has loosened everything up quite nicely but has highlighted the fact I'm running with the original britpart shock absorbers that have lived through 90,000 miles of which, in the last year, 5,000 miles have been with the Horse Trailer on the back. Reason for this post is to seek any thoughts on what I should do if in a months time the then bedded in polybushes still leave me with after shock undulations? I gather Terrafirma are due to release a product to market for the P38, and I hear mixed thoughts on Bilsteins ... what does anyone out there think? By the way I have to say that I'm very pleased with the Arnott IIIs and have noticed that with the polybushes fitted all round I'm maintaining ground contact better across gulleys than I was with the worn and (partly) ceased/bonded rubber bushes - this is not a post to reopen old polybush/versus OEM debate ... just an inquiry to garner experience with uprated shocks. Many thanks for looking and commenting Martin
  25. If I were you I'd try Colin at Blackbox Solutions in Cyprus. (www.blackbox-solutions.com) He developed the original Rovacom product and now does a Faultmate MSV-2 product line that works. I'd need to double check on mine but I think changing the language is as easy as a read, edit and write operation of the main BeCM status screen. Not sure whether there are any odd consequences but Colin and his team are bound to help out on this. The Faultmate-MSV2 for a single P38 isn't cheap - but as the average Land Rover indy charges north of £50 everytime they use testbook it isn't long before it recoups it's cost. If you are a distance from a LR outlet it also means you can do stuff with the help of a good truck mechanic (my approach even though I have several LR indy's local to me) that would otherwise be impossible. Infact I'd guess the answer to whether you'd expect an average garage in Azerbaijan to have on of these would have to be "no" as the cost for a multi vehicle, multi model unit even from Colin runs into thousands of pounds - I've heard mention of 10s of thousands for Landrovers Testbook - which has less capability than most of the Blackbox stuff. Guess it depends on the number of local P38 Range Rover owners! All the best Martin
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