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natural

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by natural

  1. OK. Now all the problems have been fixed - it took a while. There were quite a few! 1. Oil in the loom 2. One of the looms which connect to fuel pump was somehow leaking air in the system which caused fuel pressure to drop. 3. Injector sealing washers were also leaking. Just to let you know.
  2. This is something that has been bothering me over a year now. There is a strong rumbling vibration coming probably from the driveshaft or thereabouts under engine braking, but ONLY with third or fourth gear engaged. I've been checking if something is loose, but can't really find anything suspicious. Any hints? Car in question is 110 Defender TD5 MY2002
  3. ---Edit--- Nope, that isn't the one. Check your VIN# and call your local dealer. They should know.
  4. OK. I need a new indicator horn dip switch = XPB101290 Then it should work. Oh and thanks Matt and others.
  5. I think I have the same problem as beekay. Have looked everywhere, just can't find the pink dim/dip relay. 110 TD5 MY2002 is the vehicle.
  6. Fuel tank was squeaky clean. Everything was perfectly ok down there. The only way I can get the fuel pump working properly is to thoroughly clean the red ECU plug and keep the car on idle. Works like a charm. If I go for a ride, it quickly gets contaminated again, and all the problems start again. Won't start, runs not that great + fuel pump is whining like crazy. Now I know that if the pump is "singing" it won't start - back to cleaning the red plug! Summa summarum, the fuel pump was probably fine all along, ECU was just acting up, feeding "wrong information" all around. I installed a new wiring harness yesterday. Very simple and easy task. Now I'm just wondering afterwards if the part I installed was the "new improved" model and how long will it take to get rid of the lefout oil still in the loom..
  7. Update: Landy runs fine. Fuel pump noise is still not normal and I'm determined to find out what it is. It has been scorchingly hot for the last two days here in Finland, so progress has been slow. I've had two new pumps in the car already, first was installed by WS A and second new unit by WS B. Just got the tank out and decided to call it a day. I'm not changing the pump, just checking the tank itself isn't full of carp.
  8. OK, workshop guys said that there were no fault codes at all. I noticed that the fuel pump is still making the weird fluctuating noises, not the constant whine that it's supposed to. So I'm guessing it sucks air from somewhere.. It drives better now, actually almost OK. Still hard to start and like I said the fuel pump noise is ridicilous. Oil-in-the-loom: checked No oil there. Took out the whole box, didn't have anything to open the tamper proof torx bolts with. But I think that's not the problem. Air leak it has to be. BTW, I get my TD5 workshop manual tomorrow, so could someone please point out where the high-pressure pump is located. (Kim's post) Sorry to spam, but I'm reporting as-it-happens. After checking the ecu/loom -thingy, there actually were a bit of oil there. Tiny tiny bit of it. Nothing like in this article: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector_harness.html After cleaning that up, the car starts immediately!! So the starting problem is fixed, thanks to you guys! The weirdest thing. After cleaning the red plug, the car starts perfectly, and also the fuel pump sounds perfectly normal now.. Only for a second or two the noise is altering, then normal. Could it really be this simple? Well, well. I think the strange fuel pump noise is back. I might have been a bit too optimistic. But like I said it starts immediately and runs pretty perfect. But I think it's still sucking air from somewhere.
  9. Jim, I'll try all those too, thanks! Kim, Thanks, that's a good one too - I'll try it! My holiday is starting and my wallet is getting thinner, so I'll thank the gentlemen also at workshop B, take a print of the ECU fault codes and somehow teleport the car back home. It's ridicilous that at these authorized workshops(in Finland) they really don't have a clue, and I pay thousands of euros for their experiments. And at the same time I get great tips from here - no charge! Cheers guys!
  10. Thanks guys! I'm going to the garage tomorrow, I'll print this thread and translate. Porny, They were actually 980E a pop, so more like 4900E. I'll get the fault codes tomorrow! I also ordered a new injector wiring loom.
  11. Thanks guys! Will check that one asap. When it's working again, I'll let you know what it was!
  12. Hello there everyone! I'm new here. And I have a problem.. This spring, my trusty Land Rover('02 Defender 110 TD5) started keeping weird noises. Well, this was easy - it was the fuel pump. The noise wasn't anymore the constant usual whining, but rather alternating weird humming. But it usually did correct itself after it had run for awhile. Sometimes the sound was perfectly normal during the start. Later started the starting problems. It just wouldn't start. Did a bit of reading, and learned the purge trick - which usually worked. All this time when the car started it worked perfectly, no power loss or anything. I decided to order a new fuel pump at this point. OK, I kept using the car normally and one month ago or so, it died completely - on a slope, mind you. Somehow, after an hour of trying I got it working again, but rather poorly. Huge power loss, and come the next slope it died altogether. During this desperate limping, the engine sound was not what it's supposed to be. Car was towed to a workshop. They changed the fuel pump - didn't help. After a few weeks, the guys at the workshop decided that they can't fix it. They don't know how to. One guy was thinking about the air-in-the-system -possibility. Well, I couldn't tell. Really, they are the worst when it comes to fixing cars. My insurance company pays the towing only to the closest authorized(I don't know who authorized them) workshop, so the cheapskate in me allowed this stupidity to happpen. I have regretted it immensely. So I thanked the gentlemen at workshop A and towed the landy to workshop B. Today I got a call from workshop B. They believe - yes, they are not sure - that the injectors need be changed. Changing them wouldn't guarantee it working as it's supposed to. But they believe it's the case. They charge 900Euros per injector, so it's five of those cheap thingies. 4500Euros for the parts only! Obviously I'm going to order the parts from somewhere else, but am I forced to take their advice? Could it be something else? Preferably something cheaper. I know it's probably hard to tell, but any tips are more than welcome!!
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