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daslandroverman

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Everything posted by daslandroverman

  1. I could do it, or build you a new one. The big question is how much of the original is left to repair, and is what remains worth doing?
  2. Well, spring over certainly solves the track rod clearance issue you'd otherwise encounter. The fact you're planning on a large engine and silly big tyres means D2 axles begin to look pretty sensible. Going spring over does present enough other issues of its own though, so I'd be putting some thought into it to make sure you don't end up with something hideously undrivable. I'd have a look at what others have done there's a few 109's about with that configuration and decide from there. I suspect converting the front end to use rear springs would be of benefit.
  3. Not the most awkward swop, although they have another 4 inches or so extra width over Defender and D1 axles, so definitely in need of arch extensions. Pros and cons both ways, but before you dive in remember it's not the cheap easy option, and it will likely cost at least twice the original guesstimate on costs.
  4. The 2.8 Isuzu is a well regarded lump over here, and were a popular conversion into Land Rovers before the Tdi became more commonplace. Nonintercooled turbo engines will only benefit from an intercooler being added, and you'd get away with a bit more boost and a tweak on the fuel screw on the pump out to get that bit more out of it. You could probably find a conversion kit for one onto a Land Rover gearbox of you look in the right places.
  5. They were standard fit on the back of the IIA from midway through suffix A chassis numbers (early 1963 I think) with a front one becoming standard fit from Suffix D (mid 1964) to the introduction of the IIB which had them front and rear until 1972, whilst later CKD vehicles (generally assembled in South Africa) had Salisbury axles, the last being put together in 1976.
  6. Physically they'll fit, but the ride will be pretty firm as they're intended to carry around double the weight. If you're buying new then proper SWB springs are a better idea. If you're wanting to make use of some LWB springs you already have in stock, then removing a few leaves before fitting will make them a bit more supple.
  7. The ENV rear was the Heavy Duty spec rear axle from around 1963 through to the switch to Salisbury axles as standard fit on the rear of LWB models about 1972.
  8. Personal preference is the Bearmach kit.
  9. Correct. I've sussed it. The FC bulkhead is different in details to the standard II\IIA bulkhead, but the basic structure is the same from 1958-1972. It's not intended to be a concours accurate replica depending on chassis suffix or model year, but a relatively accurate unit that's un-noticable to 90% of people, and still agreeable to those who know the details they're looking at. General reception from the Series 2 Club is also positive, especially from those who've seen the first build. It wasn't something I'd yet considered, but as a Series III unit is likely on the cards -SWMBO's SWB needs one- then a Defender type unit isn't a huge leap further forward. As it's still possible to buy decent ones for £5-600 I'm going to concentrate on Series stuff for the immediate future. Have you been reading my notebook? Yes, they are also in development.
  10. Thought my current project might generate a bit of interest here... Everything begins with a rusty bulkhead from a IIB Forward Control. It could have been repaired, but to my mind by the time I'd done so it would have been 90% new metal by the time it was done properly. A bit more thinking left me with the notion that it wasn't going to be much more difficult to build a new one from scratch. So, tape measure out, lots of measuring done, drawings made, and I ended up with a stack of sheet metal in various interesting shapes. Some work with a large press and other sheet metal forming devices started to make them look more like Land Rover bits. And with a bit more fettling they started to look even more like Land Rover bits. Then after drilling some holes and adding some weld it got closer still. Until something resembling a complete new unit had come into existence. Said unit has proved some of the drawings were spot on, others not so, and has also contributed some to getting the assembly sequence sorted. A few mistakes and other updates required mean that this unit will be cut up shortly, and rebuilt again (more completely) using updated components. However -and you are reading this right- complete Series II/IIA bulkheads will be available at a reasonable price quite soon.
  11. Also,it's my understanding that the B/W acts like a solid drive between the 2 axles with the viscous allowing some slip between the two to allow for speed differential between the axles.
  12. Practical experience running my 110 front wheel drive for a couple of days (halfshaft/drive flange issues) suggests the fixed drive is to the front with the slip to the rear as it would start to creep away -roll isn't really the right word- with the hand brake on, but was fine sat in 'park'. Seems the manual is right.
  13. Surely it's just a question of marking the appropriate PCD on the range rover flywheel, centre punch, drill and tap? You should be able to measure the 2.25 flywheel for what you need.
  14. Weight isn't the biggest issue with a 101, more aerodynamics, it's a big flat front to push through the air. A bigger exhaust, and have a play with the settings on the pump would be my first port of call. There's a very good tuning guide for the VE pump here. The EGT gauge you've now got will help if you're going to have a play with the fuelling also.
  15. I do believe the old 'Chris Perfect' kits used Santana bits from IIIA and IV models, and as such were an easy bolt on swop. Not as common now, but there are other options. YakYak Classics supply a kit which includes a bolt on calliper carrier and a machined hub to carry a standard Land Rover disc and works with a 90 front calliper, pads etc. Heystee Automotive do a kit that includes a new swivel and a machined hub for each side which uses standard Series steering components, with 90 discs, callipers etc. Both neat conversions, and both work out similarly priced once fitted.
  16. The LD28 and SD33 were both fairly common conversions back in the 90's, I came close to buying a IIA One Ton with one fitted a few years ago, but couldn't raise the funds in time. It was an excellent truck, disappointed I didn't get it, so bought a 101 instead. You don't see so many of them about now (occasionally pop up on ebay) whilst the TD42 (the 4.2 from later patrols) is a good engine, better than its Toyota equivalent- but bloody expensive, whilst it's somewhat telling that there are commercially available conversions for fitting the 3 litre BMW engine in place of the original.
  17. Chassis number will be the real tell. None of the photos give any real clue's as to the features which would define it as a One Ton chassis, nor can you see the front axle, which would be a Salisbury on a One Ton of that age, no gold dust wheels either... I'd guess it's a standard six cylinder pickup that was bought by an estate or similar, was run exclusively on private land until it was sold, which saw it being road registered, then at some point between then and now someone threw -perhaps literally- a slapdash camouflage paint job at it. Speedo is a standard MPH speedo with the smaller inset KPH scale on its face.
  18. Nissan sixes are hardy engines, but have pretty sedate outputs for their size, whilst initial purchase costs are generally high - £1000 will buy a bare engine, perhaps another £1000 or more for the ancillaries- and there are better options available now. You could fit an M57 BMW engine for the £1000 you'd need to buy a bare Nissan 4.2, whilst it'll rev better, better power and torque figures, and no need to make up a conversion either.
  19. The last 300 I put on to a short LT77 used a standard Tdi exhaust from the downpipe back, with 6 or so inches chopped out of the horizontal piece of the standard downpipe to allow it to mate up properly.
  20. The basic EDC system on the M51 doesn't require that much to make it work, the BCM just gives the EDC controller the signals it needs for the engine to start and run. I believe the RAVE wiring diagrams for the P38 are a popular source of the information required to wire the EDC up, wether the engine came from a Range Rover, BMW or Vauxhall Omega. £250 or so will buy you a mechanical pump from the earlier M21 engine which is a fairly simple swop (again the RAVE manual is a good source of info) although the manual does require the use of special tools to do the job. As a source for an engine, you'll buy a Vauxhall Omega with an M51 along with another gearbox and bits to attach it to the engine a lot cheaper than a P38. They use a GM autobox of some description rather than the ZF used in the P38, and some of the BMW's that used that engine.
  21. Yes, you can, as I mentioned above. 180bhp and 260lb/ft with a chipped ECU compared to 130bhp and maybe 220lb/ft for a tweaked Tdi, and it's a six cylinder...
  22. The M51 with EDC is pretty simple to get running on its own, whilst using bits from a P38 autobox which would attach to the engine, you can put an earlier ZF autobox with a hydraulic valve block onto one. An 'End Tuning' power chip in the ECU will see 180bhp and 260lb/ft, all with six cylinder silky smoothness.
  23. I don't see why you couldn't make an adapter ring that suited the Tdi box, you could probably make a Tdi flywheel fit the Merc with a little massaging (there's about 2mm difference in PCD, making the holes slightly oval with a mill would sort that) and a Merc ring gear to suit the starter motor. Ratios aren't that far different between the manual V8 and Tdi boxes, although I can see at least 2 reasons to use the V8 autobox. First off the Merc lump was designed to work with a petrol type autobox with a decent Redline with a similar torque curve to a petrol V8, whilst the V8 boxes also have a larger torque converter with a bigger lockup clutch. An adapter made to use the 9.5 inch Tdi clutch and fit the diesel box would be a good fitment.
  24. 4.0 or 4.6 bottom end, serp 3.9 timing cover if you want to keep the distributor, otherwise build it without and go with a megasquirt to run the fuelling and ignition. A bit of porting work on the heads and a more lively cam would finish things of nicely. I can't say much bad about the 14CUX efi setup either, although the newest setup on a vehicle will be at least 18 years old by now. I wouldn't bother with carbs, despite them being 'simple and reliable', because to be quite honest, so's electronic injection when you understand it properly. Also, it's said that the engines supplied to Morgan, Westfield etc were the top quality castings, whilst the lower grade ones were used for Land Rover products (work that out?) although the later -I think 2001 on- engines had the 'coscast' block which was reengineered to eliminate the porus block issues. Might be a better start to build it round one of them if you can find one, or just spend the money on a Turner top hat linered block.
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