daslandroverman

I can't think of any reason why the defender inner wings amd tops wouldn't fit with the Series outers, as from memory the inner wing attaches using the same row of bolts the outer skin attaches to? Also, the left hand wing to suit a Series II or a LHD Series III won't have the heater intake hole in it.

According to ashcroft the bigger converter won't fit a 4HP22, and needs a different backplate and centre boss. Read here, about half way down: Clicky

Ok then, going very well, especially now it's running with a Td5 radiator and intercooler. It's also had the wastegate tweaked and the fuelling turned up, going as well if not better than when it had the 4.2 V8. A recent swop to a 1.2 ratio transfer box has made it quieter, given it longer legs, and it still goes well. To make you feel better, it needs the head off and a set of rings, which I'm hoping will curtail oil consumption, and perhaps make it go even better. Happily I've been pointed in the direction of someone who sells parts cheaper than M&D, enough I can get a full gasket set and rings delivered for less than £200. Some positives in it all anyways.

I understand M&D are still able to get hold of new ones. I suppose you don't want to know about how mine is doing now either? ;-)

Either that or find another SL35. You know how good they are.

Stumpy R380 was put together to be a direct bolt in replacement for a short LT77, so if the shirt LT77 will fit, so does the Stumpy R380. Pretty much what's already been said.

Let's be honest, the D3 based setup is a lot better looking than the zeus kit, and uses all Land Rover consumables. I have a mate who has had a set of their timing gears in his 200 Tdi for over 20 years now. The engine is in it's third vehicle, and whilst noisier than the timing belt setup (you really can hear it coming before you see it) it's been a reliable runner. I do however recall he wasn't as impressed as he could be, as there was no provision for a hunting tooth in the gearing.

Or for a more fuel efficient way of fuelling the engine without an ecu, a bucket with eight holes drilled in the bottom and sat on top of the inlet manifold...

Anyone got an idea what the PCD of the flywheel bolts for a 300 Tdi is? I've not got one handy to measure so could do with a figure. Cheers.

Leave it with me, I've got a couple of them to compare.

Would a standard efi V8 pump work?

I'm young (in relative terms) and like autos.

Series 2/3 track width is 51.5 inches wide, coiler track is 58.5 inches, which gives some idea of the difference in width. Coil axles under a Series motor with 'SWB' or early 'LWB' type rims will leave a set of 7.50x16 or 235/85r16 flush, or ever so slightly proud of the body. I do think they look a bit strange with those rims set like that though. Wolf rims don't look too out of place, but stick out about an inch and a half

M57.

Yes. A V8 kit would also fit a 200 Tdi as Tey utilise the same filter.

So,it's been back together and running for 3 days now, here's the last part of the story. Rear propshaft on first thing, followed by making up a link rod between the handbrake pivot and the drum, then adjusting it up. next job was to sort out the tunnel, which started off with a fairly small hole, which ended up with a somewhat larger one by the time it all fitted with clearance. Seatbox went back in, followed by the handbrake lever which all adjusted up, and it now holds on a decent incline with 3 clicks on the lever. The LT230 transmission brake is a massive step up over the Series item. The Series III speedo cable was cut down slightly (about half an inch off the end) and filed smaller to fit the drive gear in the transfer box, with a tab of steel made up to hold it in. The linkage for the red lever needed extending a little more to have it sit where I wanted it (my fault for making it on the bench and guesstimating where it should be) whilst a pivot and link rod made from some angle in found under the bench sorted out the diff lock linkage. All under the floor/tunnel, and nice and close to the side of the box, whilst the transfer box will all come off by dropping the props, one bolt from the handbrake rod, 6 bolts from the mount and the six holding it onto the gearbox. Success. I think. As we'd been without a car since Christmas eve and needed it to go for supplies and we're running out of daylight, trimming the tunnel wasn't seen as a particular priority. A scrap of carpet found in the back of the garage was cut roughly to size, had some holes added, and went over the tunnel to keep the elements out. The first run out was relatively successful, although was punctuated by some loss of drive which was cured by sticking the diff lock in, but then invited some less than encouraging noises from the transfer box. Next morning the problem was cured by taking the one remaining freewheeling hub off of the front axle (the other had a damaged end and was chucked a while back as it was pissing oil everywhere) and replacing it with a solid flange. A short test run saw me taking in a 200 yard run through some 2 foot deep flood water (the road out of our village has done it a few time in the past year or so) and the now solid drive setup in the front axle worked perfectly. Another trip of 110 miles went down fine, and I'd worked it out after 30 miles or so. It pulls along well at 65 - 70 mph in 5th, whilst seems quite happy at 60mph. The permenant 4WD setup suits it fine, the steering doesn't feel much different to how it did before, asides some mild feedback when doing full lock turns at low speed. Fuel economy seems unchanged, woth some rough sums seeing it returning high twenties for the run out, which is the same as it was giving with the old box. As another added bonus the speedo now reads accurately, woth about 2 mph difference between the GPS and the clock on the dash. All in all, great success!!! Some engine mods to come in the next few months should hopefully make it a little more lively, and even better as a daily driver.

Well, by good fortune I've gotten a clutch to suit the box, so the project has resumed. I'd already made the new propshafts: I'm sure we all know what a clutch looks like, so we'll skip to the box having been put back in. Sat on the mountings. And put the front prop on before I ran out of daylight. Back at it tomorrow and should see it all finished and back on the road again. About bloody time too.

No spare axles handy unfortunately. There's another box of bits in the garage, will have a look tomorrow and see if I can get a complete set. It does mean I should probably do its new discs, pads and callipers whilst it's in bits too.

Just had a front bearing on my 1988 build 110 fall apart on me, I've got a couple in stock, but neither have L/R part numbers on them. The parts book lists the outer as STC4382, which corresponds to the Timken LM603049 I have. The inner is listed as RTC3429, whilst I have a Timken 359-S, which from googling I've found to be listed against Series Motors only. Anyone got any idea if the inner I have could be pursuaded to do the job, or do I wait until I know I've got the right bits in my hand? Before anyone suggests stripping it to find out, its still rolling at present, and I don't really want to upset the neighbours by leaving it bits on the -shared- driveway for a week if what I've got isn't right.

I've never seen a belt break through sitting for a few weeks and a cylinder filling with water. Inlet manifold gasket is a possibility, although the only water passage through the manifold is at the timing belt end (the cylinder I would address as number 1) so it's not one I'd have high on my list.

Not impossible that water in the pot for that length of time has caused some corrosion that's stuck the rings to the bores. Depending on what gear you tried bumping it in whilst towing it would explain why the wheels just locked. Ideally fourth or fifth with it rolling relatively quickly would give it a better chance. Either that or try a big bar on the crank pulley. All sorts of places the water could have come from, most likely a hairline crack in the head that's let the water through as it's been sat so long, but will close up when the car gets warm. A bit of diesel down the pot that was full of water and leave to soak before trying to free it off, then a K seal in the water system if you can pursue it to go again. A little less grief than pulling the head and having to unstick the piston from the liner.

Still held up by a lack of a clutch plate. Stripped and cleaned/lubricated the handbrake assembly, finished welding the hi/Lo linkage, and made some propshafts the right length. As an added bonus the 110 **** a hub bearing earlier, so for now I have two Land Rovers sitting that are going nowhere without parts. Add that to the C3 that's also sitting waiting for a new turbo to turn up and I'm doing tremendously well. There's threat of a clutch making an appearance on Monday, so we might see some progress then. Merry Christmas indeed...

VVT on a Tdi? With the definition I've always applied to that it would be a fairly mammoth project, but interesting to see it done. I can agree some with Mr hobbies sentiments. Engine design is all about compromises, there's no magic bullet, and whatever you do there's a trade off somewhere along the line. Of course, strapping a VNT on the side and blowing more air in will allow you to burn more fuel at lower revs, but it will have a knock on effect asides the increase in bottom end performance.

It's a 2.5 diesel, Wendy (the other half) bought it with 2.25 diesel, and fitted the 2.5 herself after the 2.25 died someone was kind enough to empty a bottle of coke into the fuel tank without her knowledge. Anyways, today's progress... To begin, everything came out again, and the hole in the bellhousing crossmember was made wider, out to 120 mm if you like statistics. Which was then closed off with some 3 mm plate I had handy. I know some of the welding looks awful, but working outside with the current windy weather meant it was a bit hit and miss. It is however suitably burned in, and serves it's purpose. Unfortunately I found that the handbrake assembly would have ended up too close to the middle crossmember to be able to get the drum off without dropping the box, so whilst the plasma cutter was handy I made another hole. Formed up some steel to fill in the hole with the vice and some brute force. Then welded it in. See above for notes on welding. Daylight started to run out again, so I took the transfer box into the garage and started on the levers/linkages. The plate on the side needs the back hole re drilling to suit when the drill.battery recharges as the cardboard template was off half a hole. I also decided it would be fun to bolt the mounting plate on, as I'd spent a whole £1.81 on new bolts and washers for them. The Hi/Lo linkage works fine, and will run nice and close to the main box, whilst the diff lock link needs a pivot and rod making up to move the actuator forward/back with the movement of the yellow lever, although I may wait until it's all in the car to make sure it all fits in as I want it. If I can pin down my local land rover sage tomorrow then I should have a clutch plate to fit, and can actually put the boxes back in and bolt it all up. If you're interested, propshafts will be 31" on the front and 16.5" on the rear. I might manage to do it using the 2 standard props cut and welded, but worst case I can pick up another prop along with the clutch plate to use for the job. I want to have it done before Christmas, but it hinges on parts.

3.8 BMC? Mate of mine had one in a IIA 109, reckoned the layshaft was the 'fusible link'. Drop the clutch too quick and it was gearbox out time.