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Everything posted by Carloz

  1. Should it be connected? Never known a speedo signal is needed on the 14CUX? 🤔
  2. Looks like a mix between a MB and a M38A1... Kinda CJ2 from the fifties. I saw a lot of the original ones last week in Normandy: Willys MA & MB, Ford GPW and GPA (amfibious), and quite some pre production variants (slat grill etc.)..
  3. Also Eberspächer Hydronic does the job: with build in coolantpump. When a certain coolant temperature is reached it starts the ventilator of the interior heather to warm the cabin. My father has one. He can start it by calling his car with his mobile to start the heater. In the car is an old cell phone (moded by my dad) which switches the pre heather. Of course there are also original Eberspächer devices like clocks and remote controls to start the heather.
  4. What is "enhanced" about it? Is it with rollerbearings? That would make clear why they spool up quicker...
  5. The Lexus engine comes with the autobox? Easiest installation is when you can drive the LT230 divorced with an short drive shaft. But.. maybe the LT230 has to move a bit backwards So only suitable for 100" or 110" wheelbase I guess..
  6. I guess you mean the 14CUX ecu? I don't think it can drive an PWM valve. Stepper control is completely different electronic idle control. PWM (2wire) needs as a rule of thumb an higher current than steppermotor (4wire). Best is to use a steppermotor on the THOR manifold or change the whole manifold. Also no nock sensor inputs available.
  7. Maybe a VM Diesel one: it is the same as a V8. Only other bellhousing. 200/300Tdi ones are different. On my VM RRC I just had to change the bell housing to put a RV8 instead.
  8. Why not turn the weld down to make a smooth finish on a lathe and paint it to make it show OEM? If it is welded right it will not be an issue regarding strength. And for sure there are many steering shafts which are OEM welded together.
  9. Looks like the car is going to be just a part that keeps the axles together.... 😂😂
  10. Left hand drive Land Rovers has no lengths of steel pipes at all because all components are situated on the left side. Just rubber hoses, so practicaly no additional cooling.. The older LR's (seventies/first half eighties) had a quite big metal oil tank with a filter element which doubles somewhat as a cooler. The later ones have just a small plastic ZF tank also used in normal passenger cars. In those passenger cars they use practically all a length of pipe for cooling, mostly in front of the radiator.
  11. Tandem axles with even load distribution makes the impact of bumps half as hard on the trailer. So that is a good thing. I experienced that clearly while driving my Dodge WC62 (WW2 6x6 1,5ton truck): the rear is so much smoother than the front.. :-)
  12. I would consider a wide track sankey trailer as a basis and lengthen it a bit. Probably just shifting the axle backwards and lengthen the frame backwards as needed. And keeping the weight low is the key..
  13. If you want to turn that fast it is possible that the steering pump flow capacity is not enough. Especially @ low engine revs.. If you go to fast the pressure drops and power is lost.. so you need more effort to steer. If you are fast enough the powersteering is going to act in the opposite way: it even slows down steering.
  14. Not DIYing I guess.. Otherwise one would not ask such a question...
  15. You mean the Iceberg Diesel? The Rover V8 Diesel on the basis of the petrol V8! A pitty.. it would have been THE engine for the Range Rover and Defenders in those days (the Eighties). Always a pitty to read about those abandonded projects due lack of cash! 😕
  16. Helicoils and anodizing are just over the top. Of course it is nice anyway.. Metric bolts are corse enough.. still you need material tickness like 12mm to have enough tread, that's all.
  17. Steel is stronger of course, but not needed. Use 12mm aluminium and it will be fine. Much more important is the accuracy of it. When using the ZF 4HP22/24 with a powerful engine you need the biggest torque converter so it picks up drive better and the lock up clutch is bigger. Needs a bigger bellhousing (or maybe you can accomodate the extra 15mm you need for that in the adaptor plate).
  18. In general aluminium is the way to go. Especially in the 10mm or better 12mm and up range.
  19. I guess the LT95 will be the best surviver behind a LSx engine.... to stay close with the question of TS
  20. I have read some time ago "somewhere on the www" that the uprated Ashcroft R380 can handle about 440Nm... But no garantees were given (of course). The upgrade consist of two bearings with much higher load capability. For this the housing has to be bored out. Max horsepower is not the mainfactor: it is the torque which breaks gearboxes. When you have a good programmed boostcontroller you can let de engine produce 300hp and 400Nm and give the R380 a fair chance. Those super high torque figures are mostly in a very narrow rpm range and therefore not very useful anyway.
  21. Brake capacity and brake force are different things. The first one is about how much energy can be handeled and the 2nd is the force which can be handeled. Those two are not direct connected because you can have a brake with a huge capacity but with little brake torque/force and vice verca.
  22. Different track width on road vehicles is very common.. Almost all road going cars have different track width front to rear. Beautiful example is the Citroën DS. But! For a off road vehicle it makes the going extra tough! Because the rear wheels doesn't fit well in the path which was already paved by the front wheels.
  23. The roll stifness in the LR (and many others) two link suspension is something like a side dish: it is not intended to limit roll it is just a side effect of this way of suspension. There are many cars which have to deal with roll without having this or without having anti roll bars. Also: the effect of the roll stifness is in the beginning almost nothing. Only with big wheel movement between left and right the bushings are really going to act against roll.
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