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Everything posted by Carloz

  1. Strange... I see quite a big angle at the UJ at diff side... About the same angle as on the transfer box. I would expect that this situation would cause vibrations... 🤔
  2. So far I know with the R380 it is possible to use the M57 without the use of any adapterplates: P38 M51 Gearbox with LT230 behind it. 👀 But in that way you keep the piece of porcelain between Engine and transfercase....
  3. Yes, P38 has also Autobox. I think most of them had, with the manual more as an exception. With the BMW M51 2.5 6pot. But it has a quite smallish torque converter (as you can read @ Ashcroft). But you can use the R380 with care or get it upgraded. In upgraded form it should be reliable as long you don't upgrade the M57 which is not really needed I guess...
  4. Well the 184hp M57 is 390 or 410Nm so it is over the edge (like the 4.6)... So, yes, it will live as long it is not used over the 380Nm all the time. I was running a 4.2 LSE V8 (in fact a 4.3 hence 4276cc) with a LT77 which went all right till the engine cracked.. 😕 For the torque spikes there are springs in the clutch plate. I agree they are harder needed with big four pots for the reason ypou mentioned but in the end the 380Nm for the R380 was not set for nothing...
  5. If you call rear suspension of a VW Beetle or from Tatra truck "Modern"... 🤣
  6. Should it be connected? Never known a speedo signal is needed on the 14CUX? 🤔
  7. Looks like a mix between a MB and a M38A1... Kinda CJ2 from the fifties. I saw a lot of the original ones last week in Normandy: Willys MA & MB, Ford GPW and GPA (amfibious), and quite some pre production variants (slat grill etc.)..
  8. Also Eberspächer Hydronic does the job: with build in coolantpump. When a certain coolant temperature is reached it starts the ventilator of the interior heather to warm the cabin. My father has one. He can start it by calling his car with his mobile to start the heater. In the car is an old cell phone (moded by my dad) which switches the pre heather. Of course there are also original Eberspächer devices like clocks and remote controls to start the heather.
  9. What is "enhanced" about it? Is it with rollerbearings? That would make clear why they spool up quicker...
  10. The Lexus engine comes with the autobox? Easiest installation is when you can drive the LT230 divorced with an short drive shaft. But.. maybe the LT230 has to move a bit backwards So only suitable for 100" or 110" wheelbase I guess..
  11. I guess you mean the 14CUX ecu? I don't think it can drive an PWM valve. Stepper control is completely different electronic idle control. PWM (2wire) needs as a rule of thumb an higher current than steppermotor (4wire). Best is to use a steppermotor on the THOR manifold or change the whole manifold. Also no nock sensor inputs available.
  12. Maybe a VM Diesel one: it is the same as a V8. Only other bellhousing. 200/300Tdi ones are different. On my VM RRC I just had to change the bell housing to put a RV8 instead.
  13. Why not turn the weld down to make a smooth finish on a lathe and paint it to make it show OEM? If it is welded right it will not be an issue regarding strength. And for sure there are many steering shafts which are OEM welded together.
  14. Looks like the car is going to be just a part that keeps the axles together.... 😂😂
  15. Left hand drive Land Rovers has no lengths of steel pipes at all because all components are situated on the left side. Just rubber hoses, so practicaly no additional cooling.. The older LR's (seventies/first half eighties) had a quite big metal oil tank with a filter element which doubles somewhat as a cooler. The later ones have just a small plastic ZF tank also used in normal passenger cars. In those passenger cars they use practically all a length of pipe for cooling, mostly in front of the radiator.
  16. Tandem axles with even load distribution makes the impact of bumps half as hard on the trailer. So that is a good thing. I experienced that clearly while driving my Dodge WC62 (WW2 6x6 1,5ton truck): the rear is so much smoother than the front.. :-)
  17. I would consider a wide track sankey trailer as a basis and lengthen it a bit. Probably just shifting the axle backwards and lengthen the frame backwards as needed. And keeping the weight low is the key..
  18. If you want to turn that fast it is possible that the steering pump flow capacity is not enough. Especially @ low engine revs.. If you go to fast the pressure drops and power is lost.. so you need more effort to steer. If you are fast enough the powersteering is going to act in the opposite way: it even slows down steering.
  19. Not DIYing I guess.. Otherwise one would not ask such a question...
  20. You mean the Iceberg Diesel? The Rover V8 Diesel on the basis of the petrol V8! A pitty.. it would have been THE engine for the Range Rover and Defenders in those days (the Eighties). Always a pitty to read about those abandonded projects due lack of cash! 😕
  21. Helicoils and anodizing are just over the top. Of course it is nice anyway.. Metric bolts are corse enough.. still you need material tickness like 12mm to have enough tread, that's all.
  22. Steel is stronger of course, but not needed. Use 12mm aluminium and it will be fine. Much more important is the accuracy of it. When using the ZF 4HP22/24 with a powerful engine you need the biggest torque converter so it picks up drive better and the lock up clutch is bigger. Needs a bigger bellhousing (or maybe you can accomodate the extra 15mm you need for that in the adaptor plate).
  23. In general aluminium is the way to go. Especially in the 10mm or better 12mm and up range.
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