Carloz
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Posts posted by Carloz
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I have a Jaguar 4.0 24V 4HP24EH (electronic) auto box in my garage and a RRC 3.9 4HP22 hydraulic.
About everything is swappable: hydraulic 4HP22 casing to 4HP24 internals for example.
Most clear difference is the pump body between bellhousing and gearbox which is about 20mm longer(bigger) on the 4HP24
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Why not use Discovery rear airbags? They are about a straight swap on Defender 90 right?
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Maybe you can instal a sort of rain gutter somewhere high in the LT230 housing and leading the catched oil to the OD via a small hose: the pumps are the existing gears inside the LT230.
Super low tech and reliable but needs opening the LT230 of course.
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On 3/3/2023 at 1:54 PM, task said:
The 4x4 system is made by a company called Oberaigner rather than Mercedes themselves. It's a bit of an odd setup and not really true "4x4"
There's a transfer case on the back of the gearbox with a selectable "4x4" and "low range" however the system is fully open diffs so it can be run in 4x4 on tarmac is you wanted. The front axle is an unusual setup too being an aluminium casing.
In place of locking diffs it uses the ABS/Traction to lock spinning wheels and the power is a 60/40 rear/front bias split.
I wonder why this is "not really true 4x4"?
It seems it has a torque split center differential which devide torque front 35% and rear 65% which is perfect on and off road. Torque split diff are typically used in permanent 4x4 systems. When in low gear that torque split diff seems to be lockable because some sources talk about changing to 50/50% torque distribution (which can differ to 0/100% or 100-0% when front or rear loose traction completely.
Open diff's front and rear has always been the standard on Land Rovers (and lots of other 4x4's), they completely left that job to the aftermarket guys.
And.... I really love the camper you created! Reaaly great! Wish you many great adventures with it to come!
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I have no experience with Truetrac in Land Rover yet (it is collecting dust waiting to be fitted in my RRC). And I have same kind of diff in my garage for Alfa Romeo (trademark: Q2).
Both are TorSen type differentials which doesn't use friction plates like Limited Slip Differentials (LSD). LSD's are known for heavy steering when used in front axles not TorSen type diff's (also known as ATB: Automatic Torque Biasing).
I have driving experience with a FWD car equiped with this type of diff (Alfa 147 1.9JTDm 150hp/305Nm) and also the same type of car without: there is ZERO negative effect for sure. No difference in steering feel.
This is logical because there is ZERO resistance, it is easily turned by hand.
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8 hours ago, landroversforever said:
When I've looked at concrete specs for lifts in the past is varies so much from manufacturer, even with a 2-post. Some give loads of info on concrete type/rebar/spacing from edges etc yet others just ask for a flat level floor and no spec.
For a 4 poster I don't think I'd be overly concerned with it not bolted down as long as you're not wedged in somewhere so you've got escape routes. As mentioned above there are several options for lifts with wheels to move about and a few companies in the states do towable mobile 2 post lifts to take to events like Drag and drive etc.
I have two 4 posters and I know that they need to secured to the floor for sure. Of course it will stand without but any movement can make it collapse quite easily.
A simpel square frame from some strong beams (like H-beams 100x100 or something like that) with on the corners the posts secured will do. You need only longer ramps when used for a normal car.
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16 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
A wee bit of Improvisation on my turbo pipe ( had to shorten it to keep hurbie happy....lol )
Flat washer nipped up on my small bead roller
I remember that I did this on stainless steel pipes (for my Gtv V6 Turbo) using an old plumbers tool ment for zinc: when I was finished with the pipes the tool was finished too! The hardened layer of the roller wheels came of during the process... 🤣
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On 10/16/2022 at 12:58 PM, Tollman said:
You need an extra hydraulic controlled 4hp22 and mix parts with the 4hp24e:
Use bellhousing and gears from 4hp24e and gearbox housing and output shaft (and also output housing) from 4hp22.
In this way you end up with hydraulic controlled 4hp24.
Edit: uhm.... I was dreaming that you wanted to fit the ZF together with the M51!
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On 9/5/2022 at 10:20 PM, Daan said:
Hi,
I think this plate is meant for the rear wheel arch of a defender 90:
It is a common place to fit them there, as a lot damage occurs in this area when going off road. Either way, if you use it off road, 1 rivet won't be enough!
Regards,
Daan
99% of this sort "upgrades" is just for show on road anyway.
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I think because nobody wants them / no market for it. 🤔
It gives also more noise inside.
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22 hours ago, Escape said:
That would be the best of both worlds, like the ATB center available for the LT230.
Exactly!
But I guess Eaton's marketing department figured out that most people would choose for ATB OR Full Locker because of the higher price tag of the ideal diff...
Like Detroit was managed more by enthousiasts and Eaton, the new owner of Detroit, more by people with the calculator....
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On 7/6/2022 at 8:55 AM, Snagger said:
ATBs are control-free and will react the moment a wheel spins up. They don’t fully lock, so won’t have quite the effectiveness with a dangling wheel as a full locker, but should keep or get you going. They don’t need a potential pause to engage to avoid spline damage, though a full locker shouldn’t suffer significant spline grinding if engaged before the wheels spin up differently; the ATB is permanently “engaged”. They will still provide the tractive benefits without having to be disengaged on the road, so provide the benefits on snowy road without trying to force skids while cornering. Unless you are doing a lot of aggressive off roading, especial rock crawling or deep mud, ATBs should give better overall results than full lockers.
It doesn’t hurt that they are also cheaper, easy to fit with no control runs and casing drilling, and don’t need extra maintenance.
Detroit was working on a ATB which is lockable too. So, an ATB and full locker in one. That would be the best of both worlds and much more expensive of course.
That was before Detroit was taken over by Eaton. After that I never saw anything about it anymore, anywhere...
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LPG: costs depends vastly on what you are going to use: a basic pure mechanical set or an electronic controlled one. First option is quite straight forward. Annual milage should direct the discision.
Electric: only when you are with your back to the wall! It is costly AND it is electric.. 😒
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It is a pitty LR didn't use the series set up for the steering for the RRC (which was later used on Disco 1 and Defender). Instead there is that, for a 4x4 rediculous, track rod acting as the lowest point of the axle! 😒
When installing those late front axles I think it is possible to make the same setup as the series (trackrod in front of axle above leaf springs). 🤔
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On 5/4/2022 at 8:41 PM, defender dinky said:
Daughter had one, but having a new born wasn't practical it was her first car, she was genuinely upset when it went, but needed a four door,dd
We think we need it but can do with less...
My parents had a (real) Fiat 600 when they got me. Worked out well...
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My little monster...
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So.. Just add a Defender 90 Chassis and we have no Hybrid issue any more?
I don't understand why using a RRC chassis wich is shortend to about the same length of a standard 90 chassis. But well, it is done anyway.
In the Netherlands there is the 1/3-2/3 rule: 1/3 can be changed when 2/3 stays original. Main parts are chassis (1/3), Driveline (1/3) and Body (1/3).
So in this case RRC chassis (1/3) + axles / drive line (1/3) makes 2/3 original. Body of Defender is in this case the 1/3 "non original" part.
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6mm or 6,35mm... Big deal.
The (unkown?) material quality is a bigger factor...
But well, progress there is! 🙃
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You need a V8 bellhousing too. And that makes a cheap diesel box still expensive to use on a V8.
Only the old VM diesel LT77 manual box can be used with the original input-shaft (spindle?). But still you need to swap the bellhousing.
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2 hours ago, uninformed said:
Given the small amount of rotation in the swivel bearing during use, a parked up vehicle may actually end up worse.
Death wobble can be a bugger to get to the bottom of given the variables. Tyres, Panhard and swivels are the go to, but it can be as simple as a dead dampener or even a dampener bush. Even steering dampeners can lose their effect just either side of straight ahead and not help (though that shouldn’t cause it if everything else is correct, it just doesn’t help)
Well, I think all is the original stuff from 1986... this RRC is in a quite rough shape, I have not the idea that it was taken care for. Imported from southern France before I bought it, so rust on the common places but a little less..
Only the steering damper was new when I bought it 8 years ago.. The former owner had some intresting highway experiences too I guess.. but didn't tell me of course.
From 2014 I took the original VM 2.4TD out and put a '74 V8 in it, which was laying around in my mancave. The VM was ok but the roadtax for diesels in the Netherland is not. Also changed to V8 front springs and also changed shocks and their bushes with no result. So it must be something to do with panhard bushes, trackrod ends and/or kingpin bearings... So.. on the to do list..
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Ok, thanks for your useful replies and sorry for the hi-jacking of this topic! 🙂
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Interesting...
I have a bit of the same thing (on much higher speed) with a 1986 Range Rover, completely standard setup with RRC '92 alloys with 235/70-16.
In general use it behaves very well but when hitting angled bumps on the highway (while crossing angled viaducts for example) @ arround 110/120km/h it can get very violent! When that happens you know you are alive, if you were in doubt!
All is checked a couple of times. A RRC has the steering damper is new and on the best spot to prevent these kind of things: on the track rod. It happens with and without 30mm spacers. And stil after replacing the steering box (because of a leak).
So... after reeding this it seems difficult to detect the amount of play that can already cause this problem. My RRC has done +300.000km so it seems a rebuild of the front axle is the only way to solve this.
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I like the detail in the form of a grease nipple on the very nice diff holder!!!
The easiest and best 2.5 -30 petrol swap for 1985 defender
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
That short distances makes bad mpg too. But well in Jordan the cold start is on most days not that cold I guess?