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Carloz

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Everything posted by Carloz

  1. I did the lift without doors and rear hatches so there where enough ways to connect the ropes without causing damage. But you can also remove the bonnet and connect somewhere there. Lifting throug the windows (or preferable door openings) is also possible but you need to prepare for that to spread the lifting force. I made also some plates which connected to the mounting for the doors in the A-pilars, that is very strong but not really nescessary. Just need to take care and know what you are doing. :-)
  2. Yeah, thanks: "Photo not found".. :-P Great those hosting "services"....
  3. I can see the benefits of a 2 post lift.. But I don't trust them at all! To many fails on UT, hahaha :-P I used one for a RRC chassis swap and it worked fine. Good acces to everything and so on.. Only excess into the car is a nightmare! And still... I dont trust them!! I have two 4 post lifts (FOG403 - 3500kg capcity) in my 12m x 5,5m hobby palace and they are fine too and much safer!! Also used the 4 post for swapping chassis and engines: just suspended the body or engine to the ceiling and lower the chassis. Worked out fine :-) Just for fun to mention about my sky scrapper lifts: One I put on 55cm high extentions and is used as storage for my RRC project on top and Dodge WC62 6x6 beast underneath (still have to swap them for more space on the floor because it is 550cm long and 215cm wide :-D ). This lift can't go down to the floor... but that is not a problem: i can cross to the second one which is standing in front of it and this one is really extended by the same amount but can make the whole journey from 20cm to 235cm in two steps. :-) :-)
  4. Fitting rear calipers with bigger piston area makes the rear brakes lock up sooner and cause dangerous situations like going sideways on the moments you don't want to. Or even tipping over, ending up in the path of a lorry or whatever. => The same effect as with a failing brake pressure limiter. Fiddle breaking can be done with the original rear calipers, the force needed depends on what diameter master cilinders and lever length you choose. Though you need to separate the hydraulic circuit on the moment you use fiddle braking. That solution must be incorporated in the fiddle master cilinders. Easiest and most fail safe layout is to fit a separate set of rear calipers directly connected to their mastercilinders for fiddle braking.
  5. Thx for posting. :-) Found out that my Lucas alternator doesn't have a "W"-terminal. And figured out that I don't want to go the diesel-rev-counter-route because: to much of a hassle AND a big chance that it doesn't give the right reading on the original rev counter. So it will be: sourcing a petrol rev counter or just stick without a functional rev counter. :-)
  6. Ah, in that way.. Thanks! :-) I am going to check if my ancient alternator has a W-terminal.. Although I prefer a signal from the ignition because it is more accurate (does not depend on the pully ratio, slip etc.). But I understand now that a Diesel rev counter needs an other signal than a petrol rev counter.. So let's see if I can get it running at least in the "diesel-way".
  7. Well... the Diesel engine (and alternator) is gone.. There is now a petrol V8 instead.. It has to be triggered from te ignition coil now.. and that causes the rev counter doesn't work...
  8. What about this: I changed my RRC 2.4 VM Diesel to a carburated 3,5 V8 some time ago. I thought I could get away by just connecting the wire from the diesel alternator to the petrol ignition coil... but it does just nothing.. Anybody a idea how to get the original diesel rev counter working on the V8? :-)
  9. The frame alone will be in the area 100-150kg, axles in the same area. So I guess around 600-700kg together with suspension stuff and without wheels. A half worn 265/75-16 BFG AT weighs 22kgs, rims about the same... so that is another 180-200kgs. I think that is about the answer on your question. :-)
  10. With the centre diff locked I guess... With my RRC the front wheels just spin. (on the road so without diff. lock of course). Because of the short wheelbase a 90" will spinn the fronts more easily than a 100" RRC
  11. The standard running gear is not very solid to begin with, that is clear. So putting more power on it will break it faster. But you can drive fast or drive to break! ;-) The rear axle and diff will stay alive in the same way as with a standard engine (with LT230) if driven in a "normal way" (if possible with a 6,3L V8... :-P).. On the road: When really using the power in low gears the front wheels will slip and the center diff. will die because of lack of lubrication. Off road: diff. lock on, the wheels just slip. Diff's and axles will break when you overstress in the same way as a standard engine.
  12. Great, those disappearing pics from those buckets and shacks :-/ Lot's of wasted topics all over the www :-S
  13. I was talking about the Merc auto-box compared with a TH400.. :-) But the right used Merc manual box will handle the torque much more reliable and cost effective than a fresh build and beefed up R380.... If you keep the torque below 450Nm an Ashcroft R380 kan survive for reasonable time so far I can figure out. That should be 50K+ 400HP and 450Nm must be possible with a (real!!) boost controller to chop the destructive torque peak off. (And no, that is not a hand adjusted air bleed!)
  14. Or use the original turbo in combination with the mother of all waste gates (D=60mm) to bypass and to feed a bigger turbo. Other option is to use two original ones and switching from one to two at work when rpm rises.
  15. Better keep the Merc box combined with a LT230 instead of that ancient yank-box.. :-)
  16. It's simple: Just be sure that the bonnet is not illuminated (whatever colour your bonnet is): Mounting the lights a bit backwards on the roof or make a screen to get the same result. You can find examples when you google on safari rally cars. These are mounted mainly on the base of the A-style but you get the idea. And regarding the use of extra lights: all is ok when you are not on the open road. (Those trucks loaded with lights like a Christmas tree al use only the 5w/low power bulps which is ok, but never the hi power bulps (55w-200w) other than flashing).
  17. A MS2 can do all what you want. :-) I have a MS2 V3.0 laying on the shelf which is able to provide semi sequential fueling and ignition on a V8 (full sequential on a 4 cylinder) with peak & hold boards to control directly high (petrol) and low (LPG) impedance injectors. With table switching the petrol and LPG maps for fuel and spark can be selected. With the same switch a relais can be controlled to switch +12V to the petrol and lpg injectors (negative will be switched by the peak&hold boards). But well... my RRC is still in 1000pieces.. so that has to be sorted first!
  18. I don't understand this "upgrade" It makes your car dangerous! What you said: you created a problem with this move: To get a firm pedal in the first attempt you need a bigger diameter master cilinder. What you also get is that you have to push the pedal harder to get the same braking effect. I advice you strongly to put the normal callipers back on! With this setup you have a big chance to block your rear wheels and end up in a ditch or so..
  19. Ah, I missed that part. Got confused by the extra crossmember and bracing to the existing crossmember (both is not really necessary in my opinion). :-)
  20. The construction you have drawn wants to turn around de bolts, so is completely dependent from the clamping force and not by a desired closed shape construction.. would not be my choice. I understand you want to mount the link further backwards. I would use in a way the original link mount hole to mount a sort of little subframe to and use the three M8 bolts for the gearbox mount to keep it in the right orientation. So the horizontal strain will be taken by the original link mount. So far I know the M8 holes are backed up inside by an anti-crush setup
  21. If you use a stumpy one cilinder 6 ends up somewhere in the heater! :-D With the normal length V8 R380 the 606 will be in the same location as it would be with a autobox. I can imagine when you use adaptorplate from GAZFAB or the like, ment for an V8 autobox, all will bolt together also (belhousing/engine wise). In that case clutch story still needs to be written off course.
  22. Mmmm... Valving in a manual gearbox?? I think you are talking about the gear ratios.. :-) The V8 version from the R380 is actualy lowerreving than the Tdi version. First & fifth gear have higher ratios on the diesel versions, so with same speed in first and fifth the diesels rev more than the V8's. ;-)
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