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Retroanaconda

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Everything posted by Retroanaconda

  1. Mine had them, they were a home-made affair I believe. They bolted on to the bulkhead outrigger triangulation bracket at the front, and to the 2nd row footwell outrigger at the back. They sat below the structural sill member which remained, but they replaced the aluminium sill trim piece.
  2. Indeed, changing the fan won't help as the viscous will not be doing anything when cold. It will spin with the engine but not be engaged properly and so move very little air, with the radiator also not being used as above. The engine should be up to temperature within 4-5 miles of normal driving, though if it's all stop-start town traffic it will be longer. For that sort of use a diesel heater is a good option - or put a big trailer on!
  3. Can recommend the Landreizger loom. Very well made and fits perfectly. The cheaper ones (Boomslang etc.) are just the £5 Chinese ones re-boxed, and it shows in the quality and fit. You can buy the bits from any auto electrics place and make it yourself too, and likely for less outlay. But convenience won for me.
  4. Also done today was making up the brackets for the walls. Couldn’t find angled ones locally for sensible money so bought straight ones which are cheap and 30 mins with a gas torch gives me these. After the incident with the previous workshop I’m not taking any chances. Each one will have an M10 stud into the slab and a load of screws into the wall studs. The brackets will go up behind the internal wall sheathing and so will be mostly hidden, save for the ‘foot’ at the bottom.
  5. The two walls against the boundary have been backfilled with gravel and the DPM dressed appropriately. Bulked up the deeper areas with loads of slate to save on gravel - which also avoids needing to get rid of it somehow. I was going to bolt some wall pieces down but had to do some other bits and pieces this morning and there’s now not enough daylight left to avoid rushing, so that’ll happen next weekend all being well
  6. I replaced the battery in my 90 in winter of 2008/2009 when the one it came with died. I went to the local auto electrics place and bought the biggest and heaviest one that would fit in the battery box. 11 years and 230,000 miles later it’s still going strong, so when it does die I’m going to do the same thing! Agricultural suppliers or any decent motor factors should have a range of batteries if no auto electricians nearby.
  7. Framing is pretty quick once you get going - got this up this morning. With the exception of the small section at the front between the large vehicle door and the personnel door, this is as far as I can go around the walls until I get the windows and door sorted, so that’s a priority for the coming weeks. Need to bolt all this down too, got some resin and studding to get it secured properly this weekend. And I’ll stick a couple of diagonals across to stop it going out of shape until the internal boarding goes on at a later date.
  8. There’s no way my bricklaying skills will stretch to that, or the budget for that matter! I’d like to do one in block/brick one day, but this will do for now. Got pretty much all the brickwork done now, just the gap for the side door to finish once I have confirmed the size. Pleased to say the earlier bits survived the frosts. It’s not the finest brickwork in the world but strong and pretty much level - nothing that can’t be taken up in the timber anyway. The opening for the main vehicle door is 2950mm - which will give me 2900mm once the frame trims are on. Plenty wide enough, even taking into account c. 100mm for the door that won’t be able to open beyond 90 degrees. Will get some more timber next week and see about starting framing up some walls while I wait to source a door. It will be 2500mm to the top of the wall plate, so plenty of height inside
  9. Buy genuine though. Aftermarket mirrors are wobbly and horrible.
  10. Just two courses. Quite a frost last night - hopefully it has survived under its blankets!
  11. I will look them up when the time comes. It’ll be a few months yet so should be okay. Got around half the walls done today. Quite a learning curve with the bricklaying but I’m getting there. No closeups of the brickwork though!
  12. Took the covering off today, slab surface seems good. Fairly smooth and pretty level too so I’m pleased with that. The edges aren’t too great where the DPM lapped up over the shuttering, but it’s all strong enough. Got the brickwork bits in this morning and have been setting it out, ready to start laying the bricks tomorrow.
  13. Indeed. I think FridgeFreezer found some paint that was okay after a shorter period, I don't mind spending on it if it works. In theory the full drying time is around 1 day per mm - so at the rear of my slab that's about a year until it's 'properly' dry - not realistic by any stretch. I'll be able to stretch to a number of months by the time the structure has been built around it but I know that if I start putting stuff in there before it's done then it'll just never happen.
  14. I’ve recently invested in a Makita impact driver and it’s an amazing tool. I have slightly older 18V combi drill of theirs too which is also very good but comparing the two really shows how the brushless technology has changed things. As others have pointed out its all about the batteries, I have bought into the Makita 18V battery system and so I am looking at getting one of their impact wrenches in time. The mid-size one looks a good option, as I could use the air impact gun for bigger stuff on the odd occasion it was required.
  15. The exact opposite of my experience - Genuine ones fit, work and last well but Britpart are universally terrible, wrong shape and poor glue. One of the first jobs I did on my 90 years ago and one of many early experiences that led me to steer away from that particular company. I also prefer the later foam type.
  16. Not far off! I had a camping chair and a cup of tea in hand while watching for rabbits I’ve watered it today, and have now covered it in polythene sheet. On top of which is a layer of blankets for insulation, and then a tarp over the top of that. The polythene will stop it drying out prematurely (though it’s unlikely in this climate) to assist curing, and the insulation should keep any frost at bay until it’s had a week or so to harden enough that it won’t be damaged.
  17. Indeed it is. State of play this morning; hardened off enough now that I can walk around and inspect it properly. Finish isn’t perfect by any means but it’s pretty good and I’m pleased with it. Once it’s got a coat of paint on it it will be just the job. We’re hopefully due some rain today so I’ll leave it uncovered and let it get damp before covering it up and insulating it this afternoon prior to the frosts that are due over the next few nights. It will then likely sit covered up for at least a week or so.
  18. That’s enough concrete stress for me for now thanks! Just floated it again which has flattened out the ridges from the first time. I think I’ve left it a bit too long as it’s not done much to the rest of the surface, but it’s fairly cold today with very little wind so the bleed water took a long time to evaporate. It looks good anyhow, just hoping it’s hard enough before dark so that when I drag a cover over it it doesn’t mark it.
  19. My initials have made an appearance somewhere discreet
  20. Indeed. The nuts holding the turbo onto the manifold will be seized to buggery and so will require judicious application of heat to undo. The ones holding the two halves of the turbo itself together doubly so. Took me a good hour or so with MAPP torch and release oil to get them all off.
  21. Cheers guys. I’m quite please with the finish straight off the screed/tamp. A few minor ridges but I can smooth them off once it’s started to set if I feel brave enough - or just leave them. Just in the water bleeding phase now so don’t want to touch it, but I’m sitting guard to stop any rabbits or cats running over it!
  22. The motor may be common though, as the sweep is set by the drive gear which is sold as a separate part. They both mount via the standard Lucas clamp, just in different locations.
  23. All ready to go! Ended up with one layer at the front where it’s shallower, and then a second layer tapers out from about half way down to give two at the deeper end. I was worried about walking on it but it’s surprisingly sturdy once it’s all tied together.
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