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Everything posted by Retroanaconda

  1. Retroanaconda

    Look what I brought home last night ..

    It’s looking rather good!
  2. Retroanaconda

    Early defender 110 second row seats

    Here, item 34: http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1228/23034/23268/1767
  3. Retroanaconda


    Panhard rod is worth a check.
  4. Retroanaconda

    Thoughts and musings on the new defender

    There are loads of working vehicles with automatic gearboxes.
  5. Retroanaconda

    2.5 TD5 or 2.4 Tdi?

    So yes, as it was classed as non-commercial it attracted the higher tax rate. A hard-top of the same year would have just had the standard rate (c. £250) as per above. It was your assertion that the commercial variants attracted the higher tax that I was disputing, as it is in fact the other way around.
  6. Retroanaconda

    2.5 TD5 or 2.4 Tdi?

    Was it a commercial variant classified N1 or a non-commercial (SW) variant classified M1?
  7. Retroanaconda

    2.5 TD5 or 2.4 Tdi?

    This is almost entirely incorrect Tdci has the solid flywheel as above, with Td5s being the ones with DMFs. The former doesn’t suffer with DMF failure as above but the clutch is carp, though at least that’s cheap to swap. And it’s the commercial Tdcis which have the cheaper tax rate. A certain number of Station Wagon variants during the 2.4 Tdci period were classified as M1 passenger cars rather than N1 commercial, and so are taxed at a high rate based upon emissions. All the other (commercial) variants in this period are taxed at the standard rate, as are all variants in other years of production. The difference is a few hundred quid a year and, unless you’re barely using it, amounts to a miniscule proportion of the total cost of running the vehicle. I wouldn’t let it put me off buying the right one.
  8. Retroanaconda

    2.5 TD5 or 2.4 Tdi?

    Personally having driven many examples of both my preference is for the Td5, I don’t like the later dash of the Tdci (though the heater is good!) and the gearchange is horrible. The higher gearing of the Tdci does make them faster and more comfortable on longer journeys though and there’s no doubt that the Tdci lumps are powerful and torquey. I’d still choose a good Td5 over a Tdci. Your budget is quite healthy so you may be able to get an earlier vehicle which has had a galvanised chassis/bulkhead swap, this would preempt the two biggest problems that occur as the vehicles age. As always with Defenders though they’re all much of a muchness, and a good one of any given variety will be better than a poor one of any other. General condition and evidence of good servicing/maintenance is far more important than age or mileage.
  9. Retroanaconda

    Defender V8 Engine Mounts?

    If you want to do it the ‘official’ way then yes. And use standard pipe work etc. for the engine. But leaving the gearboxes where they are means you can leave your floors, tunnel and propshafts standard. At the cost of custom engine pipe work etc. though you may need that anyway depending on availability of Defender V8 stuff.
  10. Retroanaconda

    Thermostats that last??

    I’ve never had a problem with genuine ones, which are made by Waxstat I believe.
  11. Retroanaconda

    Puma dash and bulkhead onto 2002 td5

    It’s all just nuts/bolts or simple wiring, with the exception of the instrument pack. This is CANBUS driven on the Puma/Tdci and so requires some fiddling to work with an older Td5 engine/vehicle. You can either do away with it and fit the Td5 gauges/lights into the later binnacle, or I believe there are now CANBUS adaptors available that will take the signals from your older vehicle and drive the newer gauges. Youll also potentially have issues with the gearstick interfering with the dashboard. I’ve read various conflicting reports with solutions ranging from bending the gearstick to fitting Discovery shifters and making up a custom centre console.
  12. Retroanaconda

    Defender V8 Engine Mounts?

    Looking through it you are correct Barrie. The 300Tdi/V8 Td5 gearbox mounting position is about 2” forward of the old 4-cyl/200Tdi one. Hence the bulge in the front of the seatbox to clear the transfer box front output housing and the different propshaft lengths. You have numerous options for mounting the boxes in this position: The old early V8 mounts which use the same 3-bolt triangle as the 4-cyl mounts in the photo above but have the actual rubber mounts further foirwards The 300Tdi gearbox crossmember with the integral mounts A Td5 or Tdci chassis which has the mounts welded to the chassis All three options will, used with the correct rubbers and corresponding gearbox halves and with the correct gearbox variant, put the gearboxes and engine in the correct position for the V8, 300Tdi, Td5 or Tdci.
  13. Retroanaconda

    110 Front Axle replacement - Advice please

    If you get an axle from 1994 to 2002 you’ll just need the matching radius arms. If you get an axle from 2002 onwards then you’ll need the above plus a panhard rod and also the bracket that attaches the panhard rod to the chsssis. Plus bolts and replacement bushes as required.
  14. Retroanaconda

    Chassis maintenance / upgrade

    I did mine entirely myself over a number of weeks (about 14 days worth of work if I recall correctly), there's a thread in the members vehicles forum which covers the process. I was in for around £4k in total once I'd finished, and I only replaced what was necessary (plus a few bits that made sense in terms of access etc.) - the chassis was over half that.
  15. Retroanaconda

    Chassis maintenance / upgrade

    I had issues with alignment with the Richards chassis that I used. An outrigger was around 1/2” out of position. Conversely when I did the 90 using a Marsland chsssis the body went straight back on with no issues. Plus the Marsland ones look a lot better, being made to the same design as the original. There is argument however against this and in favour of Richards in that the four single sheets approach they use does in theory mean fewer internal rust traps. But the galvanising mitigates that to some extent. They're all F-ing expensive now, but nobody does a re-chassis on a Land Rover purely for financial reasons. For the OP - my advice would be to fix up the one you have. You could spend more on a newer one, but in 10 years or less it will be in the same boat. Spend the cash on the old one and the chassis at least will last for donkeys years.
  16. Retroanaconda

    Heated seats TD5 and electric winch

    The main vehicle harness comes in lots of varieties for the differing engines, specification levels and international markets. As such it’s unlikely that your vehicle will have the wiring unless it was specified from the factory. Not impossible though. That said it’s not too hard to add supplemental wiring yourself.
  17. Retroanaconda

    Chassis maintenance / upgrade

    You can’t buy direct from Marsland any more. You have two choices: 1. Buy through local 4x4 specialist - this will take 6-8 weeks minimum. 2. Buy via reseller (Bearmach or Britpart) - in which case you can probably get one in a few weeks or less, however it will cost you another £500 or so for the privilege. When I picked my last one up last spring I was told that there was now a 30-week lead time for direct orders. Britpart/Bearmach take all the production priority and they are a lot slower to make now that GKN got rid of the robotic production line.
  18. Retroanaconda

    Chassis maintenance / upgrade

    Any of the new replacement chassis that are available will be fine in terms of ID. One could argue that only the Marsland are ‘truly’ original as they’re made in the same way as the original ones but I’m not aware of anyone ever having had an ID-related problem with a Richards or the like. You'll find a variety of opinions on which are best. My choice would be Marsland, having had experience of both major manufacturers. A rear 1/4 chassis will be cheaper than a full chassis swap, but I suspect not by as much as you’d like. Personally if you can afford it I’d go the full job. That way it’s done and you can forget about it.
  19. Retroanaconda


  20. Retroanaconda

    Won't fire

    Did it run before it was laid up?
  21. Retroanaconda

    mpg for 300tdi 110csw

    I have tracked the fuel economy of my 90 religiously over the last 5.5 years or 156,714 miles. In that time it has averaged 30.8 mpg under normal conditions, or 30.57 mpg when things like towing are included. Key things are: - As above, driving style has the biggest impact. If I drive everywhere at 50-55 I will add 2-3 mpg easily. But go mad in the process and wind everyone else up. I generally sit at 60 mph for most of my driving, a tad faster on motorways to keep me comfortably ahead of the wagons. - Season has an effect. Mine is very cyclical with summer figures 1-2 mpg higher than winter. Due to winter diesel and higher incidences of headwind conditions (big impact on Defenders). - Contrary to the belief of many on Internet forums I have found absolutely no statistically relevant difference between brands of fuel. I never use premium fuels though, and I believe the ‘standard’ diesel is all the same. - I’ve found no difference between road tyres and all-terrains. Have never run mud tyres, however I would expect them to rob a couple of mpg at least. The above is based on data from 560 fill-ups and is true for a Tdi 90, I would expect a 110 to have slightly lower performance but mid-to-high twenties. Before I took it apart my 110 CSW returned about 28 mpg on a run in the short time I was using it. But nowhere near enough data to claim that as ‘normal’.
  22. Retroanaconda

    Exhaust position and Fumes

    Generally it exits at the side so that it is drawn into the flow of air past the vehicle, rather than being trapped in the vortex that forms behind it.
  23. Retroanaconda

    Headlight wiring/relay upgrade

    You can buy full bowls, where access is only possible from the front, or the half-bowls which are open at the back. The latter make changing a headlight bulb a 30-second job rather than pulling all the lights out for it. Much better design.
  24. Retroanaconda

    Robs 90 called Billy

    The headlamp relay just serves to cut the headlights with the ignition off. It doesn’t remove the load from the switch.

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