Jump to content

Retroanaconda

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,462
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    97

Everything posted by Retroanaconda

  1. Did the problem start when the batteries were replaced?
  2. Your engine mounts do perhaps look slightly further rearward than on this photo. Perhaps someone with a factory 300Tdi can take a few photos or measurements for you.
  3. For 200Tdi and earlier 4-cyl models the engine/boxes sit in that rearward position, using the bolt-on mounts you have in the first post. For the 300Tdi they moved the mountings forward a few inches, into the V8 position. This means the gearbox tunnel is a different shape at the rear to clear the front output housing of the transfer box. Combined with a longer bellhousing on the R380 it means the engine ended up much further forward in the engine bay. A picture of your engine mounts would be useful. With the gearboxes mounted on the 300Tdi crossmember then your engine should drop on to standard 300Tdi mounts.
  4. If it’s a 110 you could change to a later Td5 tank. It’s a fair bit of work though.
  5. Do you mean apart from printing, the compass, gunpowder, paper, cast iron, banknotes, gas lighting, rockets…?
  6. How many volts is the alternator putting out?
  7. Vapour garage build ongoing here… Let's say I was to build a workshop and have provision for a ramp (likely a 4-post). What would be a sensible clearance height requirement to allow for its use? Obviously I can just add the height of the vehicle to the ramp’s maximum lift as a simple measure but is there anything else to consider?
  8. I’ve gone with 32F and 34R for c. 260k miles and 4 sets of tyres, works great and never had an issue with wear. If you’re towing or have a lot of weight in the back you can increase the rears slightly.
  9. If kept lubricated they should last indefinitely I’d have thought. Especially the one-piece ones. Over 250k miles on the pair in my 90, plus whatever the Disco they came off had done!
  10. Indeed. Mine averages 33mpg which I’m quite happy with. If I wanted frugal I wouldn’t drive a 2.5 tonne permanent 4x4 brick.
  11. No. Different design and position of mounts. The transmission is also mounted in a different position on the two variants. @Mo Murphy recently completed this conversion on the same spec of vehicle, and so will be able to advise on the types of mounts needed.
  12. You have the drop brackets so assuming the chassis is all correct as standard then the normal towbars for a pre-Td5 90 should fit okay.
  13. Show us a photo of the back end of your chassis to be sure, but it’s very likely that the towbar mounts will be the correct ones. Pre-Td5 all use the same towbar mounting points, albeit they are on a pair of small drop brackets on 90 chassis due to the different profiles of the rails.
  14. The proper way to do it is to swap the stub axles and hubs for the later 300Tdi type, and then the standard caliper brackets, calipers and discs will all just bolt on. You can reuse the old halfshafts, but they don’t have the stub axle seal land and so your wheel bearings will run in axle oil and not grease. Some say this is the better setup.
  15. Might be worth disconnecting the battery for five minutes and then reconnecting.
  16. Seats are highly subjective, so the only sensible advice is to put into the car the ones that you find most comfortable. I am one of the lucky ones that finds the standard Defender seats very comfortable. Done 700+ mile days no bother.
  17. The requirement for engines is “Alternative cubic capacities of the same basic engine and alternative original equipment engines are not considered to be a substantial change” I would consider a 200Tdi to fall quite comfortably within this definition.
  18. I can contribute. Testing central locking system, but like an idiot I forgot I had the wires for the rear door taped together. The circuit board did not like that
  19. Definitely oil and not diesel coming from the injectors or leak-off pipes?
  20. ABS vehicles use a different pin with an integrated bearing as above. Non-ABS should be same as 300Tdi. 200Tdi and earlier use the railko bush at the top. No idea whether it would be considered stronger or not though? Do you have large offset wheels or spacers fitted?
  21. Split conduit provides protection from rubbing etc. and makes things nice and neat but it will not provide any protection from heat. If you can’t route the wires away from hot stuff then the heat resistant fabric sleeping would be my choice, as used on factory LR engine looms.
  22. Td5 forks don’t need reinforcing. Also worth checking that the clutch pedal is adjusted properly with the necessary amount of free play. If not it can hold the clutch off slightly causing slip.
  23. I had Michelin Lattitude on my 90 for a while, they were pretty good off road as long as it wasn’t too muddy. I ended up with BFG KO2s and am now on the third set of them, I will get another set when these are done despite the cost.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy