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Everything posted by Retroanaconda

  1. If you have only done the flywheel bolts up to 40nm then I am afraid that yes you do need to take it apart and do those again, following the workshop manual procedure exactly. Running it with them that loose will end in disaster - the flywheel needs to be very tightly held on to the end of the crankshaft, hence the 147nm torque figure.
  2. Can you just run a 10mm or 10.5mm drill through the drive flange holes?
  3. Is it a full emissions test looking for certain gases, or is it just a basic smoke test? Generally as long as the engine is in good health and not worn out (i.e. burning lots of oil) then a good fast drive with some prolonged high revs does wonders for clearing out the pipes. Also known as an Italian tune-up.
  4. I used to buy the kits but they don’t come with everything so you still need to add the extra bits like gaskets etc. I always have a couple of water pump bolts spare given their propensity for snapping, and if they are looking worse for wear when removed they get replaced in an attempt to pre-empt said snapping for next time it comes apart. Mine is going to be due some time this November/December. Hopefully have the workshop ready by then as the air gun certainly makes things easier
  5. INA are a decent brand and are what I have always used in the past.
  6. I retrimmed my old county seats with Exmoor Trim seatbase foams, made a big difference. I then fitted a set of seats out of a Tdci model - these are much better again. They seem to be a more supportive design somehow. They’re comfortable enough that I can do 500 miles in a day without any particular bother.
  7. I found something similar written on the back of the dash trim in mine a while back.
  8. Indeed, but worth noting that if you're rebuilding an old vehicle onto a new chassis you need to have the tabs on the outside of the bodywork as the nut plates are captive on the body. That's why some are like that. Later vehicles which came from the factory with this rail had the captive plates welded to the rail itself, so that went behind the bodywork. If you buy a new Marsland Chassis for a pre-Td5 vehicle you get the rail without captive nuts, Td5 and on you get the one with them fitted. The principle is the same however, start at the back and work forward. Start with the body parallel with the rear crossmember but be prepared to tweak it if necessary to get your door gaps depending on outriggers etc.
  9. For a temporary adjustment it would be easier to tweak the plastic wheel, that way slackening it off returns it to the original setting easily. If you do it via the permanent screw then you’ll need to either mark it or take note of the number of turns you add.
  10. Turn the plastic adjuster on the throttle cable
  11. Thanks Ian. I’m guessing it’s a bit louder with the straight pipes? Interesting. Do you have any pictures of the connection piece? I think I’ve seen similar where there’s a short 4” or so of exhaust which links the 200Tdi downpipe to the Td5 centre box. I’d hope that the brackets would bolt straight onto mine with it being a later chassis. It has the outrigger style mount just forward of the centre silencer which the earlier chassis don’t have as they use the one built into the transfer box mount. Did you find it any better in terms of noise than the Tdi system?
  12. Had the old oil pressure sensor failed? What was the reason for changing it?
  13. Genuine parts should come in Land Rover packaging. Some suppliers however do split bags and sell the items individually which means they arrive in a plain bag - LR Series do this a lot. Personally I prefer to buy the bagged quantity where possible in these cases as that way you know it's genuine. However it's probably fair to assume that many older parts are not of the quality they were, even sourced via Land Rover. New old stock can be a way around this, people like Dunsfold are good for stuff like that as they tend to buy up a lot of old bits.
  14. I wouldn't have thought cutting the rear crossmember off and replacing with a Defender one, and likewise with the body outriggers, would cause any bother with requiring an IVA. That’s what Mark Evans did. Although the rules may have been tightened since then.
  15. Apart from the two ruddy great posts of course?! If I did have a lift it would be a four post anyway.
  16. Only when fitted to a V8 or Td5 engine - the forks on these are very strong. When fitted to a 200Tdi or 300Tdi it uses the standard clutch fork which should be reinforced to prevent premature failure.
  17. Only in terms of what I’ve got permission for. A lift would be nice, but it’s never going to be big enough to have space for a lift and a normal flat area.
  18. Why not use a Disco chassis and avoid the IVA? If that's still possible
  19. No need for a building warrant luckily so don't need to worry about that. It will be a timber framed building, but there will be a dwarf wall of engineering bricks around the outside two courses deep and the timber frame will be anchored to that. Either via fixings directly through the sole plate into the bricks or via straps on the inside face, not sure yet. The mesh will have 50mm of cover, either one layer in a 100mm or two in a 150mm slab. If the ground is as good as I hope it will be in terms of load-bearing ability then I'll likely get away with 100mm of sub base and a 100mm slab given the light-duty nature of the building, but I may as well make up the slab to 150mm just to make the concrete better value. I was also mocking up the front end at the weekend and I may be able to get away with side-hung doors after all by having one smaller one that folds flat against the building as suggested earlier in the thread, as there's a bit more space than I thought. Which would save on the (quite considerable) cost of a roller-shutter door.
  20. The last Britpart back box I used (out of ease and desperation one year to sort an MOT) lasted less than six months!
  21. Stainless would be a good fit and forget solution but the more affordable ones (Double S) have mixed reviews across the ‘net with lots of mentions of mild steel flanges and poor fitment. If I’m spending that amount of cash I want it to fit perfectly and last forever. Custom built is an option but it does seem odd that I should need to do that for what is a standard part. The main quality I’m looking for other than longevity is quietness - I have no interest in a noisy exhaust droning away on the motorway for 10 hours at a time so the quieter the better! Lots of aftermarket systems seem geared towards performance over quietness. Theres no flexi joint in the 200Tdi system from the factory, do we think adding one might help with vibration/noise? One could be put into the downpipe fairly easily I would think, and they don’t rust like the other sections do.
  22. Although for some reason if one buys the Double S system through Britpart it’s half the price!? Something suspicious going on there...
  23. Cheers Ian, would be interested to see. I did consider stainless, but at the best part of a grand for a Double S system I could buy the already ridiculously expensive genuine parts twice!
  24. For whatever reason it seems almost impossible to buy a 200Tdi exhaust from brand that lasts these days, the one on my 90 now has been fitted since I did the chassis last June and it's pretty rusty on the welds already after just 35,000 miles. It's also the prime suspect as the source of quite a drone at certain speeds. I used to buy Bosal years ago but can't find them any more for the 200Tdi. Current one is from Klarius. Land Rover still list the genuine parts which I am sure would last better, but at £277 for the centre box and £244 for the rear it makes for a fair wedge to splash out! An option may be to convert to the later Td5/Tdci middle and back boxes, which could give me more options potentially with being a more recent part. Would be interested to hear what others are doing.
  25. Perhaps, gentlemen, we can keep the focus of discussion on the positive or negative aspects of the technical nature of the new vehicle - and not our respective career histories. As far as the new Defender goes, if one remembers that they are not building something to do the same as the old one then it looks pretty good. It’s fairly clear that they’re aiming at the high end market and not utility, so a slightly boxier-shaped Disco is not unexpected. After all that’s all the original was - this is the newer version. The target demographic is not people operating in hostile environments after all, it will be designed to work well on road (which is where almost all 4x4s spend the majority of their time anyway) and like the other models in the current range it will be surprisingly good off road thanks to clever electronic systems. And it will no doubt be just as unreliable as the rest of the current range
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