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Everything posted by Retroanaconda

  1. I find I can slacken the nipple from the top with a 1/4” ratchet, reaching down over the wing. Then with a tube fitted i just open and close it by hand while someone does the pedal bit. Then nip it up again from the top. Theres not enough room to swing a 10mm spanner properly above the nipple between the starter and the footwell. A cut down one would be better. This is on a standard Defender 200Tdi though - the aftermarket conversion exhaust may make access even more difficult.
  2. So in that case the Disxo axle casing will have wider radius arm brackets, so not a straight swap. If have the arms off the disco you can use those as well though and that will work, the chassis end is the same. Panhard rod should be the same. The disco axle will probably have different calipers (twin circuit) but you’re probably best replacing those anyway.
  3. They’re not usually tight so I’ve managed in the past to drill a hole in the top of the bolt and either use an easy-out type thing or knock in a suitably sized torx bit which can then be used to undo it.
  4. Is it damaged or leaking? Inverness 4x4 are pretty good.
  5. The last three times I’ve changed mine I have used a Valeo kit with no issues.
  6. Definitely paint before assembly if possible as you’ll get a better finish at the joints. The outer wing panel is held to the top panel by a row of bolts/spire-nuts and the same to the front. Bit of a faff to reach but doable. Work I had to do make these fit properly included adjusting the flange angle as above, plus elongating the mounting holes on the bulkhead mating face. And of course cutting the hole for the side repeater.
  7. Mine’s very original, I’ve only changed the bits between the number plates
  8. I’m usually able to find things in the parts info but this is eliding me. I’m looking for the reinforcement plate that sits to the left hand side of the rear (tail) door and serves to provide rigidity to the striker mounting area. It sits here where you can see its paint shadow and it is fixed by the rivets through from outside.
  9. Pretty sure the sticky-out nose pre-dates Td5 by some way. This is original I believe, for example:
  10. Indeed! Kettle’s on if you’re passing
  11. One is okay, the other will need a slight tweak. And after checking against the bulkhead this evening on one of them I will need to tweak the mounting holes upwards slightly. Luckily that is hidden when assembled.
  12. They arrived yesterday, seem okay to me and appear to line up with the tops/fronts at least. They’re a bit thicker compared to the cars original wings I reckon. Will cut the side repeater holes in and get them off for paint.
  13. They’re not really tubes but bits of curved plate welded between the sides of the box section, but any piece of decent gauge steel tube around 12mm ID would suit. How come your chassis doesn’t have them?
  14. Since I have to cut a hole anyway I may as well cut one to suit the Td5/Tdci type as they match my loom. I'm not keen on LEDs and changing/adapting flasher units etc.
  15. I think generally the pulley is meant to be removed from the damper (the four bolts you mention) before the tool is then used to pull the damper off the end of the crankshaft? Often I’ve found that when removing the pulley (with a large external puller) the damper comes off the crank with it and then has to be separated on the bench.
  16. Sorry, I already have some nice boring standard Td5 ones to match my loom!
  17. I’ve gone for a set from SP Panels which, sadly, will still need the side repeater holes cutting. I’ll offer them up to one of the spare sets of wings before sending them off to paint and make sure they match up okay.
  18. I’m in need of two replacement outer front wing panels as mine are dented and will cost a fair bit to put right before paint. I’m not keen on the plastic ones, and have come across an issue in that apparently 200Tdi and earlier types (i.e. with the air intake on the passenger side) are not available with the cutout for the side repeaters. I can cut these in easily enough but would rather not if I can avoid it. Does anybody have any recommendations for or experience with replacement panels that won’t break the bank but are decent quality?
  19. It’s left hand drive vehicles that need the bend in the rod, on a right hand drive that side of the rod is on the chassis bracket which is further forwards but on a left hand drive that side is on the axle bracket further aft and right close to the diff, so the bend is needed to clear it. That’s why on the later 2002-on rods the RHD version is a straight tube but the LHD still has the bend. It’s just that on earlier models they only had one common part, so on RHD the bend is superfluous.
  20. They have no rear locking diff so didn’t go for the off road pack, they just have chosen the off road tyres option separately like I did. It was also their choice to have a P400 which can’t take the smaller wheels without modifications to the brakes. Likewise you can specify the front skid plate which exposes the front recovery point if preferred, or just take the trim off before you go off roading. Why make the rear recovery points standard when most people won’t need them, and you can make some extra money charging those who do for them as an option?
  21. I looked up the Bronco tow rating, it seems to be 3,500lbs or around 1,500kgs. Other than that the specification list is great. You can have up to 35” tyres, front/rear diff locks, integrated terrain mapping, disconnect-able sway bar - it looks like a great toy. Interestingly I hadn’t realised it had independent front suspension.
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