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Retroanaconda

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Everything posted by Retroanaconda

  1. Had a set of galvanised ones on my 90 for years, never looked out of place. I did paint them when I rebuilt it but that was just personal choice.
  2. I carry a rope, two shackles and a spade. If I need more than that, I try not to go there in the first place!
  3. Have used the Valeo “130/HD” clutch for years on my Tdi and it has always worked well. I got the last one from Ashcrofts I think, they do a kit.
  4. Maverik has already said he doesn’t have any left, you will need to source one somewhere else.
  5. Thanks. Please let us know if it materialises. Trying to get basic diagnostic info for the 110 is a pain in the backside, hopefully Ineos’s approach is different to LR.
  6. @jeremy996 Any news yet on the publication of workshop manual, diagnostic information etc. for owners to enable home maintenance and servicing? This is one of the main appeals of the vehicle to me, along with its potential for longevity could make it a worthwhile investment. A lot of noise was made about it pre-launch but I have not seen anything yet.
  7. They stay live for a short period after startup to help with combustion in the cold cylinders. All working as designed.
  8. Assuming it’s new and freshly galvanised: Degrease and thoroughly clean. Then use mordant solution (also called T-wash) to prepare the fresh galvanising. You can then apply your normal choice of primer/paint system on top as you would for normal steel. As for which top cost to use, that depends what your facilities and skill level is, and what kind of finish you are after. The best results will come from professional 2-pack epoxy paints, but these can be dangerous to spray in the home environment. Coach paint and a roller can even produce acceptable results!
  9. The loom above is for 2002-onwards vehicles. What age is your chassis loom for? Different plugs and looms were used at different times in production.
  10. It plugs into the chassis loom behind the cover in the rear corner of the tub, where the lights wiring is.
  11. Site damage? That would be within the former opencast pit with a wind farm in it? Better revenue streams elsewhere with less hassle I suspect. A shame as it’s a nice site.
  12. It’s not as technology-free as the marketing would have us believe. Until the recent software update fixed them were people with heater issues (no temperature or direction control etc.) as that’s also all controlled by the cars ECUs - not standalone circuits or physical levers/flaps. It’s just the way all modern vehicles seem to be built.
  13. Mine does it too, and has done for the last 265,000 miles across three alternators and two looms. It’s never caused a problem!
  14. There’s a plastic sheet water shedder type thing that goes around the lock mechanism inside the door, visible in the photo below. Not the main big water shedder that covers the whole door, a much smaller piece. Does anyone have any info or photos on how it’s supposed to fit? I have the parts but couldn’t figure out how it fits and what it’s supposed to do. The part is EJD500010, and looks like the below.
  15. More likely flip it for a profit to someone wanting to skip the queue.
  16. There is significantly more intrusion than in a Defender, however it is highly individual. I did find it noticeable and a bit annoying how much my left leg was bent, but I only drove it for a few hours and would need a proper length drive to really get an idea of whether it would cause me a specific issue or not. It will be a deal-breaker for some people and others won’t even notice it, much like some people find classic Defenders cramped and uncomfortable while others can drive them all day with minimal issues. It provides space for the exhaust, and is only there on RHD models so I can’t imagine Ineos will dedicate much resource to fixing it given it’ll only be an issue for a subset of owners within the minority market in terms of LHD/RHD. They’d be better fixing the steering as that affects everyone
  17. The battery warning light is not to indicate problems with the battery, more to indicate problems with the charging system. Use a multimeter at the battery with the engine running to see what voltage your alternator is producing, I suspect it is not charging properly.
  18. They are the steel pieces that bolt to the top of the tub, the upper body side panels attach to them.
  19. A-Plan have been my go to for the last few years for the 90, on a ‘classic’ policy. LV for the 110 on a normal policy.
  20. Have you got a photo? The bases just lift up from the rear, there are loops to pull on.
  21. Would normal copper pipe not be a bit susceptible to work hardening and fracturing with vibration? Cupro-nickel might be a better bit, like for brake/fuel lines?
  22. Interesting, I had not considered UV stability. I wonder then if I could make up something on a lathe, stepped to give the top hat washer for sealing purposes. And then file two flats on it to fit into the hole.
  23. I need to make up a pair of small bushes, to convert the ‘squared off oval’ wiper holes in my 90’s bulkhead to a smaller round hole. It strikes me that this may be something doable with a 3D printer fairly easily? It’s to allow me to fit double washer jets in the redundant LHD wiper spindle holes. I want to be able to effect a weather seal against the bulkhead with some kind of flange to hold a foam/rubber seal, as well as support/centralise the washer jet body in the hole. The bulkhead hole looks like this. How would people recommend I go about this? I presume I’d need to get a drawing made up to be sent off to someone with a printer?
  24. @abba I have split your question into a separate thread as the one you posted in was related to a different type of speedo
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