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Retroanaconda

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Everything posted by Retroanaconda

  1. For what it's worth, it took about five minutes of constant lock-to-lock turning, periodically giving it a bit of a rev, on mine before it suddenly just went. Must have been a big bubble trapped somewhere as errol suggested above. I went for a test drive to try and get the system to self bleed, turning round in the fuel station was a horrible experience without the PAS on a steering setup geared to have it
  2. Finally got the truck ready with the power steering fixed and the axle swapped, so I'll definitely now be there tomorrow, save something blowing up on the way (quite likely...)
  3. I have no viscous fitted so at least that part is easier I have sorted it now, sat in the cab and gave it some beans while cycling the steering. It then started making that straining noise on reaching full lock and upon lowering the wheels to the ground for a test drive all seems to be well. I think all the air is out of the system, but I will take my bottle of ATF with me to Hogmoor tomorrow anyhow Thanks for the help guys, it's lovely having properly effective power steering again. Coupled with the discs on the rear, it's a different car to drive!
  4. Yes, that's probably worth a shot. I've let it settle for about an hour now, will head back down the workshop and try some more cycling of the steering with the front wheels raised. I hope I don't run out of ATF
  5. Trying to do the same with mine now after changing the pump this morning. Can't get it to work! Opening the bleed screw produces a steady flow of bubble-free liquid. Tried the same with the front wheels raised and cycling the steering lock to lock a few times, no appreciable difference in flow and no more bubbles that I could see. I cracked off the pressure feed union going into the box, accidentally undid it too far and the pump duly emptied the system onto the floor in the time it took me to scramble into the cab to turn off the engine. So it's certainly pumping fluid. Any ideas folks?
  6. Exactly. However, there are no markings on my PAS pump at all, so the only assurance I have that the pump is indeed an OE supplied part is the word of the chap at Brit-Car. Time will tell.
  7. Not genuine no, but I've had Britpart boxed items before that were OEM. They've always said so on the label though, whereas this one doesn't. Not really got a choice now anyway, need it for the weekend so no time to send it back. If it fails in what I would consider a less than acceptable length of time then I will send it back.
  8. I bought a PAS pump from Brit-Car this week, paid for OEM and a Britpart one turned up. I called them and the chap there assured me that it was in fact an OEM part, just supplied by Britpart. I've had things like that before, but there are no markings on the box and it doesn't say OEM anywhere on the label as per usual with OEM-but-distributed-by-Britpart items. All I can do is trust what the guy says and hope I haven't been ripped off for £180
  9. How odd. The rear drum cylinders on my '92 were 3/8" UNF, as are the '91 calipers I just put on. Solution I guess....buy some of both!
  10. I got mine from Diff-Lock. Bought a 1/2" one and wish I'd bought a 3/8" but hey never mind
  11. The ones on my 1992 are metric, I believe Land Rover went metric in the last of the Series IIIs. But only for the hoses and t-piece fittings etc. The wheel cylinders are still 3/8 UNF, or they are on mine anyhow! Nothing quite as British as mixing measures
  12. They're very very busy at the moment, but they've always taken the time to answer my phone calls asking when my new chassis will be done
  13. Unless it's 64-bit, in which case the ageing 16-bit sub-system that Microcat utilises is no longer supported. I use Virtual PC running a copy of XP to get Microcat working on my 64-bit Windoes 7 PC.
  14. Wish my snorkel was sealed properly, at least then I could play in the lake!
  15. I use these: http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/excel-20g-bb-3700 They're good for shootin' people, so should be good for balancin' wheels too You can get them in heavier weights too, intended for more accurate fire, but 0.2g is the 'standard' if you will.
  16. Low down, so they shine under the fog and illuminate the road rather than the fog itself.
  17. 110 springs are a different diameter so won't fit. Just use LR Heavy Duty springs that were made for the job
  18. Swap the gauges and instrument binnacle to Td5 ones, and fit a MUD console as suggested above. Bingo, easy Td5-style dash
  19. A LOT of sand, probably a fair-sized lake too with the recent rains. The main tracks are wide because F huge tanks go down them regularly. The wooded areas have hills and narrower tracks, there are little clearing areas around where it's less wooded but there are more hills etc. Will see what the SLRC officials say regarding it I guess
  20. I don't think he wants it for driving in fog, just for more lighting when driving at night. Personally I'd fit a pair of driving lamps that come on with main beam and avoid the foglights completely.
  21. Lifting is over-rated in my opinion, and not something I would consider for a road-going truck. The possible detrimental effects on your handling both through increased COG and the modified steering geometry outweigh the apparent benefits off-road as far as I can see it. Bigger tyres are possible on a standard vehicle (modify the bodywork a bit here and there), and with a well thought out suspension system you'll have plenty of axle travel up and down without the need to lift.
  22. Because I'm following the routing given by Les Henson in this thread. The pipe goes from the top bracket on the swivel housing down to the bottom cylinder and then back up to the top one where the bleed nipple sits. The theory being the bleed nipple is both easier to access and better placed for bleeding out the air which will rise to the top.
  23. Aww, that kinds sucks. All the fun bits are the minor tracks and parts in the trees
  24. Could do yes, there will be alignment marks on the prop's main shaft. Try it with it correctly assembled and see how it goes.
  25. Well that was worryingly easy.... That should do it I think, looks okay to me anyhow. Need to get myself some flexi hoses so that I can finish off the top end of that pipe with a female union. For those in the know, do I need to get extended hoses because of the parabolic springs going on, or is there enough length in the standard ones to allow for the extra height/movement? Thanks
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