Retroanaconda

I have a T-Max Double-Pump compressor mounted in the same place

Mudstuff do ones rated at apparently 16 amps, just run a new (fused) supply to them

Typical, literally 1/2 mile from where I used to be at Uni. Even did my exams there!

I would just re-trim your current seats, with new foams et all. Get them done in a nice canvas (Exmoor Trim have many options I believe) and you should find it improves things Less hassle than fitting seats from other cars.

That just seemed to trap a load of Slindon grinding stones/paste into my discs on mine.

I remove the wheels after a good playday, and jetwash the chassis/underside. I clean the windows, but not really the bodywork

The antifreeze from Halfords

Thrust Washer: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listi...ACER-INNER.html Lock Washer: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listi...OCK-WASHER.html

I went to Billing on Saturday, was a good day. Wish I had more money to spend though, was excruciating looking at all the cool bits and not being able to buy any of it. Found a ROW spec Td5-style dash, but the guy wanted £100 for it! Still enjoyed it thoroughly though, will be there next year, hopefully with a load of cash in my pocket

Hmm, is this the same for early 90 rear hubs, with drum brakes? I have no washer between my inner hub nut and the 'seal track spacer' which meets up with the outer wheel bearing. I have the diagrams from Microcat and the workshop manual and they don't agree on what goes in what order. Microcat has: Outer bearing (8) - thrust washer (13) - seal track spacer (14) - inner hub nut (15) (The seal (12) runs around the spacer, so isn't relevant here. On the contrary, the workshop manual has: Outer bearing (7,8) - seal track spacer (20) - inner hub nut (11) Now, I have set up my vehicle like the latter, as it seems to match my vehicle better (going by the drive member's appearance etc). As a result, my inner hub nut presses directly onto the face of the seal track spacer (20), the other side of which (with it's rubber seal) presses onto the bearing face. This seems better to me as the inner face of the 'seal track spacer' is completely round, matching the bearing race's face. What does everyone else run?

My 2' breaker bar is a 1/2" drive and that managed 250 lbs-ft without any issue. Think it's a Halfords Pro one.

Whenever I need to remove my doors I'll be replacing the bolts with stainless torx-head ones that can actually be undone again once done up Why they used Phillips-head bolts, which are actually designed to slip out under high torque loadings, to hold the bloody doors on....is something I will never understand.

The two-brown-wire systems were used with 65A alternators I believe, at least according to the diagram in my workshop manual.

Bugger all in Sussex I'm afraid, they were almost all lost. Plenty over in the Surrey Hills area, I won't give specifics on here but get yourself an OS map or two of the area and you'll soon find them. Some are TRO'd at the moment though, so be aware of that when planning. As Chris says, Slindon is running on the 26th, very highly recommended and not too far away. Hampshire is well into the patch of the Shire Land Rover Club, who run events around the South of the country fairly reguarly. Worth joining up. Think there's a Horsham club as well, but don't recall the name off hand. Usually if you give notice people will be up for joining you on a laning day trip, although people tend to keep it to around 4 vehicles max to limit the impact. A general rule is, if you are getting stuck then the lane could do with a break to recover

Since my Defender is used on the road as well as off I needed to be able to seal my air box completely for any wading malarkey, but also have a drain for any water (rain etc) that found it's way in on the highway due to the design of the Safari snorkel (ram type). A solution presented itself to me while I was rumaging through the pluming at work, where I found this: It's a threaded reducer, one side is a 1" female thread and the other a 1/2" male thread. It just so happens that it's the right size for this job. This is what we're replacing: A rubber, erm, hole...which is designed to let water out but not in. Of course in the sort of situations we are likely to put our vehicles in (bonnet deep fords anyone?), it tends to let water in a lot, resulting in a wet air filter and possibly other generally bad things. After a day at Slindon Safari my airbox had mud in it, despite the deepest parts only being a few feet. Remove this rubber thing (clamp can be a pig to get off), and what your left with is a spigot with a slightly raised end profile to aid the rubber sealing. What you need to do is hacksaw this last 1/4" off so that it's a straight pipe all the way to the end. Didn't get a picture of this, sorry The female 1" thread is annoyingly in the way now, so needs to be removed. Luckily a 1 1/4" holesaw is the perfect job... A bit of drilling later: Now bash the fitting onto your (cleaned up) spigot as far as it will go, and seal it up with some sealant. I also sealed the weld attatching the spigot to the airbox, can't hurt: I left this to cure overnight and then reassembled it onto my vehicle. I had to slightly tweak the alignment of the airbox end to get it to clear between the intercooler pipe and the airbox mounting bracket, but it does fit. For normal driving I'll leave the cap off, and any rain that is forced down my snorkel and doesn't clear out the head should drain out here like LR intended. When off-road I turn around my snorkel head to stop it getting ripped off by trees and swallowing great gulps of water/mud if I enter a puddle/river/bog 'enthusiastically'. The fitting seals with an o-ring like this: And an end-cap (1/2" female) on top: Quite a neat little mod I thought, and dirt cheap too. The fitting itself can probably be gotten from most plumbers merchants, but mine came from the aquatic centre (fish/ponds etc) where I work. Your local one may do them too.

Haha, no. Bendy-type torque wrench for that. I meant for the crank bolt, sorry

I used a 50 lbs fishing scale on the end of a 5 ft scaffold pole, so 50 x 5 = 250 lbft

I have to admit, when I reach an age where insurance is practical and I can afford one, I will replace my Focus with a reasonably nice Disco, for transporting people/pulling things.

I use my airsoft glasses, impact rated and used by UK and US armed forces for eye protection from blast debris etc. Got them for £15 off eBay, closer to £45 odd new I think. Came with a clear, yellow-tinted and smoked lens so I can adapt to whatever I am doing. http://www.diamondbacktactical.com/images/.../ESS-ICE2.4.jpg

I just torque to 80 ft-lbs using the torque wrench and a 27-mm socket, then re-do it after 50 miles or so.

Also dependant on age. My insurance for my Focus is full comp, has been for the last 3 1/2 years, but I don't get the 'third party on other cars with owner permission' benefit until I turn 25 I think.

I'm quite lucky in that I have a Focus for long distance driving or ferrying people about, and a Defender for off-roading and ferrying stuff about. Definitely recommended, if only so when the Defender is out of action for whatever reason you can still get about, or if you're fixing something you can nip out and get a part in the other car. Doesn't always work though as I'm ending up driving 400 miles in the Land Rover this weekend, but it's for Billing/airsofting so it's a special occasion

I always leave my Defender in gear, never trust that handbrake. Even when I eventually put an X-Brake on it I'll probably still park it in gear, better to be safe than sorry

Yep, the fittings I got from my local hydraulics place (most of which sell these push-fit pneumatic fittings by the way) are BSPT, so seal into the BSPP holes well enough

He needs to add two pins though, the wire bringing the signal from the temp sender needs to go into pin 5 of the lower plug and then a wire needs to come out of pin 9 and go to the temp gauge. On a standard Td5 loom these pins are non-existant, the only pins in that plug are for the fuel gauge (from sender into pin 3, to gauge on pin 7 and low fuel light on pin 1).