Retroanaconda

The loom above is for 2002-onwards vehicles. What age is your chassis loom for? Different plugs and looms were used at different times in production.

It plugs into the chassis loom behind the cover in the rear corner of the tub, where the lights wiring is.

Site damage? That would be within the former opencast pit with a wind farm in it? Better revenue streams elsewhere with less hassle I suspect. A shame as it’s a nice site.

It’s not as technology-free as the marketing would have us believe. Until the recent software update fixed them were people with heater issues (no temperature or direction control etc.) as that’s also all controlled by the cars ECUs - not standalone circuits or physical levers/flaps. It’s just the way all modern vehicles seem to be built.

Mine does it too, and has done for the last 265,000 miles across three alternators and two looms. It’s never caused a problem!

There’s a plastic sheet water shedder type thing that goes around the lock mechanism inside the door, visible in the photo below. Not the main big water shedder that covers the whole door, a much smaller piece. Does anyone have any info or photos on how it’s supposed to fit? I have the parts but couldn’t figure out how it fits and what it’s supposed to do. The part is EJD500010, and looks like the below.

More likely flip it for a profit to someone wanting to skip the queue.

There is significantly more intrusion than in a Defender, however it is highly individual. I did find it noticeable and a bit annoying how much my left leg was bent, but I only drove it for a few hours and would need a proper length drive to really get an idea of whether it would cause me a specific issue or not. It will be a deal-breaker for some people and others won’t even notice it, much like some people find classic Defenders cramped and uncomfortable while others can drive them all day with minimal issues. It provides space for the exhaust, and is only there on RHD models so I can’t imagine Ineos will dedicate much resource to fixing it given it’ll only be an issue for a subset of owners within the minority market in terms of LHD/RHD. They’d be better fixing the steering as that affects everyone

The battery warning light is not to indicate problems with the battery, more to indicate problems with the charging system. Use a multimeter at the battery with the engine running to see what voltage your alternator is producing, I suspect it is not charging properly.

They are the steel pieces that bolt to the top of the tub, the upper body side panels attach to them.

A-Plan have been my go to for the last few years for the 90, on a ‘classic’ policy. LV for the 110 on a normal policy.

Have you got a photo? The bases just lift up from the rear, there are loops to pull on.

Would normal copper pipe not be a bit susceptible to work hardening and fracturing with vibration? Cupro-nickel might be a better bit, like for brake/fuel lines?

Interesting, I had not considered UV stability. I wonder then if I could make up something on a lathe, stepped to give the top hat washer for sealing purposes. And then file two flats on it to fit into the hole.

I need to make up a pair of small bushes, to convert the ‘squared off oval’ wiper holes in my 90’s bulkhead to a smaller round hole. It strikes me that this may be something doable with a 3D printer fairly easily? It’s to allow me to fit double washer jets in the redundant LHD wiper spindle holes. I want to be able to effect a weather seal against the bulkhead with some kind of flange to hold a foam/rubber seal, as well as support/centralise the washer jet body in the hole. The bulkhead hole looks like this. How would people recommend I go about this? I presume I’d need to get a drawing made up to be sent off to someone with a printer?

@abba I have split your question into a separate thread as the one you posted in was related to a different type of speedo

A chain on the 2.2 engine as above

Just get the brackets and fit them yourself? Or as above get a 300Tdi/Td5 axle casing for £50 and swap your parts over. Just need to drill the panhard bracket out for the larger bolt size I think, rest should just bolt up.

They all have the ability to determine rough location from picking up local WiFi networks etc. so that may be what it’s doing. The SIM & cellular network connectivity is entirely immaterial, it’s just that they only put the gps receivers in the models with SIM slots.

It’s the wifi+cellular model, yes but it doesn’t have to actually have a SIM card in. The gps has worked flawlessly everywhere I’ve used it. I think the wifi-only models of that era didn’t have actual gps receivers in as you allude to. Not sure if that’s still the case now.

Been using a 10+ year old iPad for years. Works perfectly, excellent viewing angle and resistance to glare. Runs memory map for UK laning or Guru for stuff abroad. I’ve got it mounted on the dash with a ram mount - simple and cheap.

It’s powerful enough to take Land Rover wheelnuts off, though I generally crack them off with a bar first and just use it to rattle them on/off. Because it’s a smaller size it can be used easily for things like taking props off (with the prop tool). The 3/8” is smaller still but all my impact sockets are 1/2” so that’s what I went with! For bigger stuff (crankshaft bolts and trailer hub nuts etc.) I use the air impact wrench, which is a old Chicago pneumatic one I found in a garage which was being cleared!

It’s the DTW285Z. I’ve had it a few years now so they may have superseded it.

I have a big 200 litre compressor but I only ever use it for the blow gun, air riveter and the big windy gun for crankshaft bolts. The small Makita 18v impact does everything else and it’s just not worth getting all the pipes etc. out so in hindsight I probably should have bought a smaller one. However I’d like to try some spraying one day so it’ll come in useful for that I hope. R-Tech welders get a good write up, but I don’t have any direct experience. Mine is an old Murex one that I got second hand but does the job for what I need.

Tinfoil hats abound, we’re all doomed