Retroanaconda

I just corrected your point on the countries they have sourced from, I’ve not made any claims about how the U.K. economy is affected for better or worse. I don’t disagree that there is a difference between sourcing entirely within the U.K. and sourcing elsewhere and winners and losers within that, my point was simply that I don’t understand why people make such a big issue over it in a global economy.

It does if you are claiming the latter, yes. I really don’t understand this mindset, a car maker will source its bits from wherever it feels it can get the best balance of cost and quality for its needs. Why it matters whether that’s in one country or another is lost on me, it’s a global industry.

You do talk some nonsense. Please provide the breakdown of parts manufacture by country to substantiate your claim. For info - the pieces I’ve had off mine while working on it have had ‘made in stamps’ ranging from the UK to India, with most being European sources. Poland is a common one, along with Germany.

Lot of talk at crossed purposes here. Any aftermarket gauge and matched sender will work, so long as the thread is correct. A VDO one like what you have link will be good and pretty accurate. I would go that way. The Td5 temperature gauge is driven by the ECU on Td5 vehicles. On non-Td5 vehicles (factory ROW-spec 300Tdis or any other engine) the signal from the sender has to be fed via the speedo head. This is not for damping, but to adjust the signal so the needle sits correctly. It will work without it but the needle will sit in a different position at ‘normal’ temperature. The Td5 gauge, like all factory car temperature gauges, is designed not to move during normal engine temperature variations, because most people will be worried by a moving gauge.

https://fnltd.co.uk/shop/puma-gauges-controller-p87.html This device can control the 2012 dials and gauges. It might work for your situation.

There are no good couriers, only some good drivers - who may work for any courier!

I had a similar conundrum:

Sadly the dealers are not good at telling people about their shortcomings, or the recommendation to use the fixed one for heavier towing, for obvious reasons. I was not aware the fixed towbar was available until too late when I bought my 110 and so ordered the detachable one. It has not fallen out but I have had to have part of it replaced due to corrosion meaning that the plug in bit would not sit properly in the socket. Suffice to say I have bought a fixed one to swap over when I get round to it, or rather when I can summon the effort needed to pull the bumper etc. off to do it!

What actually happened is LR changed the supplier for the axle casing, or there was a change in methods (no one is sure which), but for whatever reason it was changed from friction welded flanges to MIG welded flanges. It was the early batches of these which were found to be failing. There has been a recall for it for years, but they have recently expanded the range of vehicles to which it applies - hence more owners now getting letters. If the weld has failed you get a new axle case, if not you get the brackets. The issue was fixed on later vehicles, but I would still swap any MIG welded casing out for an older friction welded one if I owned such a vehicle.

I’d be surprised if they do, UK commercial sales are going to be a very small slice of the pie - especially since they are limited in how many they can sell here. I doubt it would be worth the hassle. Assuming the things turn out to be reliable, I’m sure they’ll have no bother selling their full production capacity once they get the US leisure buyer market up and running.

Had them fitted to my 90 for years. Didn’t fit them when I rebuilt it, and have never noticed any difference whatsoever. I think we’re kidding ourselves if we think that a 10mm bit of rubber-coated steel is going to really have much effect. But they can’t do any harm I suppose.

Every factory 200Tdi I have seen has had a gold coloured block, it’s just how then are.

Where you live Jeff I imagine it would not last the first winter.

Yes. Doors are the same shape and have the same hinge and latch points.

No. That one fits with a rubber seal similar to the windscreen. Your 1986 door will have a window held in with aluminium strips/screws and a putty type sealant.

Better than the 75th anniversary editions.

Yes, the later type is a far better design.

I can’t see any scratches in those photos? Fair enough you basically have to pay up if it’s damaged even if you didn’t do it, but if they cannot provide you some evidence of the damage they don’t really have anything to charge you for.

As above, increasing the swivel bearing preload fixed it.

The hinge bushes make no difference to the front end. This is as good as I can get mine. It can go down another 10mm or so before it would hit the top of the slam panel, but the bayonet spring bottoms out if I wind the pin in any further. The only way around this would be to shorten the spring and I don’t really want to do that. So this will have to do! It’s annoying as the bonnet is not parallel with the wings and there is an unsightly gap at the sides. But such is life.

An air fed mask, and separate/extra compressor if necessary, is the only proper way to do it.

It cost me about £2.5k to get the 90 panels done in 2021, individually as the vehicle was stripped down. They could have done a better job as there are runs in a few places and some cracking/crazing in places. They also only did the outside of the panels as I was doing the inside myself. I’d expect to pay £4-5k for a proper high quality respray. And in reality you could buy the proper kit and have a go yourself for a hell of a lot less, which leaves a lot of spare for a few tries while you learn. But you’ll need the luxury of space and time.

Yes, change the brush pack first. They’re cheap enough and it’s worth a go. I swapped the one on mine recently and it solved a problem with low charge voltage - the brushes were just worn down.

@ThreePointFive did you make any more progress with this?

Mine goes up over the top of the brake pedal box/servo and then just straight down to the hole in the footwell. Most of it is visible here