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Retroanaconda

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Everything posted by Retroanaconda

  1. Except they’re not dropping Land Rover are they?
  2. These guys do parts: https://www.mdengineering.co.uk What makes you think it’s overheating?
  3. My Tdi used to have a soft clutch pedal the first few presses after a motorway run on a hot day - same problem I reckon.
  4. There are two different lengths, one for LT77 and one for R380. And the LT85 one but that’s different at the gearbox end.
  5. I have had success in the past by putting a bar through the front anti-rollbar mounts and then a block of timber up to the engine block. Not sure if that would line up with the bellhousing on a 300Tdi though? Alternatively, a stout bar or piece of timber across the seats and then some rope or a strap down through the hole under the middle seat/cubby and around the box might do the job?
  6. I’ve always just used a larger one, it’s seemingly accurate enough for the purpose. Smaller ones are available though: Amazon link
  7. Should be working now. Apologies for the disruption!
  8. Yes I think so. It’s a boss you weld into the fork and then it can take the replaceable bushes from the V8/Td5 fork.
  9. Definitely get a reinforced clutch fork, or the upgrade to the bushed type if preferred. I’m not particularly convinced a metal release bearing carrier is necessary unless you’re doing a lot of work where you’re sat with the clutch pedal pressed for long periods of time. But maybe it’s one of those things where it’s not much more to put an upgraded part in than a standard one?
  10. That’s looking fab. When’s it’s first outing off road to try it out?
  11. The standard upgrades would be: Front - a 24-spline diff (upgraded if you wish) and then Ashcrofts 23-24 spline shafts to work with your existing 23-spline CVS, which are the strongest factory version. HD drive members if you wish. Rear - 24-spline diff (again upgraded if desired) and then ashcroft shafts/drive members. I’d swap the axle for a later disc-braked one first though. A Tdi will cruise at 70-75mph, especially with an overdrive, but you will use a lot of fuel and make a lot of noise. That’s already an overtaking speed so I’m not sure I understand the need for 85-90mph.
  12. This thread has progressed in a very predictable manner The branding decision is a non-issue, the cars will still be land rovers and they will still have the green/black oval on the back. The only difference I can see is that the dealerships will use the model names abode the door - which makes a lot of sense when you consider that very few people say ‘I drive a Land Rover Range Rover’, or ‘a Land Rover Discovery’ - the models are brands in themselves these days. Usual storm in a teacup reaction.
  13. On LHD vehicles the rod requires a crank to clear the diff, on RHD it does not. Pre-2002 they fitted the same cranked solid rod to all cars regardless of drive side, though it was unnecessary on RHD ones. From 2002 they moved to the welded hollow tube, and at that point RHD and LHD differed, with the former having a straight rod and the latter using a cranked one.
  14. Yes, I pull it until the target figure is reached - which requires a very small amount of force - and then I tighten the tensioner bolt. That then gets torqued to the correct value using a normal click-type torque wrench. As for how accurate it is I am not sure, but I’ve never had an issue with a timing belt apart from a dodgy tensioner bearing causing wear on one edge. Was your issue not caused by the tensioner bolt coming loose?
  15. https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hdg-rear-capping-tub-door-lock-strengthener-bracket-lr-defender/
  16. That’s for the front doors Ralph, it’s a different part for the rear tail door. I searched high and low for a part number Jeff but couldn’t find one. In the end I found that YRM sell it separately so bought one from them.
  17. There’s no confirmation from Ineos there. Nor from HMRC. I appreciate that neither are likely to make any statement, as frankly it suits both of them for it to be unclear, but it isn’t helpful for those trying to inform purchasing decisions.
  18. Can you get him to confirm the tax status for HMRC? In terms of benefit in kind?
  19. They did fit 4-pins to the fronts of some late 110/130 models, in response to the issue of 2-pins failing under the higher torque of later Tdci engines. There appears to be no rhyme or reason as to which vehicles got them though or which did not. This is a different diff to the short-nose ‘P38’ diff fitted to the rear axle of 110/130 from around 2005 onwards following the demise of the Salisbury. If you do find one then it should be the same as the old V8 90 rear (heavy duty) diff and so yes should fit into any normal long nose Rover casing.
  20. Kerb weight of a Tdi 90 is about 1,700kg so I’d hope mine is around that. Maybe a little more for some added soundproofing etc.
  21. The £58 ones would probably be a safe bet, if they are from someone reputable.
  22. I see the first ones have finally started being delivered, so hopefully won’t be too long.
  23. I don’t think the wait is the issue, a 12 month lead in time for a new car is not unheard of these days. It’s more the fact that they’ve been built, delivered to the dealer but they’re now sitting there unable to be handed over due to some mysterious ‘software’ issue. After all the noise made about transparency during the engineering and planning phases, it’s a shame it has gone this way.
  24. I suspect he means it only starts if easy start is sprayed in while turning it over. Without easy start it will just turn over but not fire up.
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