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DiveTramp

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by DiveTramp

  1. That's exactly what happened minutes ago! Many thanks! You're gotta love Landy electrics, the true home of "spaghetti electric-trickery"... 😉 Now, I can get back to welding up the A pillars and bulkhead now the windscreen is out. 😏
  2. Cheers Western, that's exactly what I needed. When I took the wiper off the door to test it, it worked with a direct 12v and ground from a small battery, but obviously without parking. This led me to source the problem of a corroded red/light green connector behind the rear panel, hence only getting 4v from that wire. Next problem is to sort out the non parking side of this wiper. I'm not sure where to go with that... But, thanks again! 😀
  3. These are what I've got at the back door. No block, just loose ends.
  4. Here's the wiper motor that came with the Defender. Those block connectors are held on two metal brackets but I slid them off to get easier access to the pins.
  5. I have read thro your previous answer on this, but it doesn't answer my question at all. The wires coming out of my amr3676 are different and there are only four of them. I get that one of the "two" socket wires will be an earth that's now incorporated into the wiper frame, and the Yellow wire may be the live to the motor, but which of the original wires on the Landy goes to that Yellow? And then, what is the correct connection/colour matching for the other 3 wires, the White, Brown and Green on the wiper itself?
  6. Guys and gals, I am absolutely stuck with this! I have a Defender OneTen, 1989 vintage. It came with a new, AMR3676 rear wiper, but not fitted. I have the standard wiring leading up to the wiper, red/light green, brown/light green, solid green, three blacks on one ring crimp and single black. However, the wiper has a three way block with White, Brown and Green, and a single block with a Yellow. How on earth do I connect these together correctly so I can at least check that the other wiring is correct with no faults?
  7. I think it must have been. Today I discovered the mounting brackets for side walls (where the windows are) have been fitted on the top rather that the bottom. This has been pushing the sidewall out by about 5mm. Are there any pics of the correct nut/washer/threaded rod/body/washer/nut combination that bolts the doorpost end down to the tub? I think they've screwed that up too as the spacing at the top of the door is quite small and not square.
  8. That's awesome. Thank you all. I thought there ought to have been some bolts on that crewmember, I can see the threads of the captive nuts. I think I'll run a tap through them first tho... You wouldn't think this chassis swap was done by a professional garage, would you?
  9. I've got the rubber mounting pieces, and think I can see where they go, it's the locations of the metal spacers I'm seeking. The C pillar is also a botch job. Its simply two pieces of 40mm x 25mm welded in. From what I've seen online, the angular C pillar part tapers as it meets the sill. Is this correct? Anyone have the dims for this piece? I know I'm going to have to cut it loose as I jack up and reset the tub.
  10. Hi all, a new to me, One Ten Defender County Stationwagon, 1989 vintage, has found it's way to my 4 post. It's had a galvy chassis fitted back on 2010, but the useless "fitters" didn't set it up with ANY spacers or rubber body mounts, at all! I've trawled the internet but can't fond any videos or info on exactly where these things should go. There is a definite dip in the roof And a definite curve in the bottom sill too. This means the doors do not fit well at all so, I'm hoping you guys could tell me what should go where.
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