DiveTramp
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Posts posted by DiveTramp
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The above vehicle has very heavy steering, notchy at times then light then notchy and heavy again.
I have replaced the two U/J's as they were actually loose in the joints. I see oil coming from the swivels, so ive got those to look at.
My real question is... what number should the steering pump be? The thing fitted to my One Ten (it has a 200tdi dropped in) has the number BR1361 on the pump label.
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I've just heard from her, that the plate shows it to be 3050kg. What a bummer! No worries tho, she's booked it in with the Landy garage that she used to use for repairs and MOT's in the past. She only went to the other MOT station for "quickness of getting the mot done"!
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It's taxed and used as a private vehicle. There is no way to register it as a campervan these days, the DVLA changed the rules on this two years ago.
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I've been working on a defender 110 td5, replacing rotten chassis bits.
The owner just took it for its MOT but they didn't carry out the MOT as they said it's too heavy and must be a class 7 MOT (that they can't do).
It's never had this trouble before with MOT's. It's kitted out as a simple campervan with two seat up front. How come they are now classing it as a class 7?
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10 minutes ago, western said:
Hopefully when wired up to the existing wiring as above it will sort itself out.
That's exactly what happened minutes ago! Many thanks!
You're gotta love Landy electrics, the true home of "spaghetti electric-trickery"... 😉
Now, I can get back to welding up the A pillars and bulkhead now the windscreen is out. 😏
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Cheers Western, that's exactly what I needed. When I took the wiper off the door to test it, it worked with a direct 12v and ground from a small battery, but obviously without parking. This led me to source the problem of a corroded red/light green connector behind the rear panel, hence only getting 4v from that wire.
Next problem is to sort out the non parking side of this wiper. I'm not sure where to go with that...
But, thanks again! 😀
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These are what I've got at the back door. No block, just loose ends.
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Here's the wiper motor that came with the Defender. Those block connectors are held on two metal brackets but I slid them off to get easier access to the pins.
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I have read thro your previous answer on this, but it doesn't answer my question at all. The wires coming out of my amr3676 are different and there are only four of them. I get that one of the "two" socket wires will be an earth that's now incorporated into the wiper frame, and the Yellow wire may be the live to the motor, but which of the original wires on the Landy goes to that Yellow? And then, what is the correct connection/colour matching for the other 3 wires, the White, Brown and Green on the wiper itself?
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Guys and gals, I am absolutely stuck with this! I have a Defender OneTen, 1989 vintage. It came with a new, AMR3676 rear wiper, but not fitted.
I have the standard wiring leading up to the wiper, red/light green, brown/light green, solid green, three blacks on one ring crimp and single black. However, the wiper has a three way block with White, Brown and Green, and a single block with a Yellow.
How on earth do I connect these together correctly so I can at least check that the other wiring is correct with no faults?
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I think it must have been. Today I discovered the mounting brackets for side walls (where the windows are) have been fitted on the top rather that the bottom. This has been pushing the sidewall out by about 5mm.
Are there any pics of the correct nut/washer/threaded rod/body/washer/nut combination that bolts the doorpost end down to the tub? I think they've screwed that up too as the spacing at the top of the door is quite small and not square.
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That's awesome. Thank you all.
I thought there ought to have been some bolts on that crewmember, I can see the threads of the captive nuts. I think I'll run a tap through them first tho...
You wouldn't think this chassis swap was done by a professional garage, would you?
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5 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Item #2 looks about right;
I've got the rubber mounting pieces, and think I can see where they go, it's the locations of the metal spacers I'm seeking. The C pillar is also a botch job. Its simply two pieces of 40mm x 25mm welded in. From what I've seen online, the angular C pillar part tapers as it meets the sill. Is this correct? Anyone have the dims for this piece? I know I'm going to have to cut it loose as I jack up and reset the tub.
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Hi all, a new to me, One Ten Defender County Stationwagon, 1989 vintage, has found it's way to my 4 post. It's had a galvy chassis fitted back on 2010, but the useless "fitters" didn't set it up with ANY spacers or rubber body mounts, at all! I've trawled the internet but can't fond any videos or info on exactly where these things should go.
There is a definite dip in the roof And a definite curve in the bottom sill too. This means the doors do not fit well at all so, I'm hoping you guys could tell me what should go where.
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No worries guys and gals. I was able to get inside the mechanisms this evening by smashing thro the brittle plastic/felt trim pieces and working a bent flathead screwdriver blade into the clamp mechanism (with a certain amount of help from a 3lb lump hammer!) and was finally able to release the twin seat. The single will have to wait til tomorrow...
I'd love to meet the plank who designed the carpet/foam cushioning for an offroad vehicle that's obviously going to receive copious amounts of water thro the "normal" activities these beasties were made for!
Pah! All that water, sucked up by the foam under the carpet just sits there waiting to do its nasty work of RUSTING up all the moving parts of the seat locks! Now I've got the seat up, (next one tomorrow) I'll be able to remove the carpet and foam and hang it somewhere to dry, then I'll set about freeing off the seatlocks so they run smoothly again.
DT
"Everything's easy! It's all just a question of time ;-) "
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I want/need to remove the rear seats in my D2 but the release cable wires have rusted off and I can't lift the seats to access the Torx bolts (which I'll have to grind/cut off anyway as they're also well rusted in!).
Does anyone have pics of the rearseat locking mechanism, or indeed any advice?
Cheers, DT
What steering pump for my Defender 200tdi 110 csw
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Cheers. Engine number is 11L 24763A. The pump does indeed appear to have a little leak going on. That leak is from the front, there is a banjoed pipe on the rear and the feed pipe is a push on to the top of the round body.
It also has S200 Pump on the label and the belt is tight enough.
If I'm going to replace the leaky pump, I'll need to know which one to get... 😉