Anglo-Frenchman

My old fuel pump became very noisy about a year ago so I replaced the pump with a new non-genuine pump but the noise remained just as bad. Since then I have replaced the fuel filter, injector seals, harness and fuel pressure regulator but the pump still sounds like a cat going through a mangle. Maybe I should have bought a genuine pump but I'm not convinced that this is the issue. Can anyone offer any suggestions on what I could do to try to resolve this as it's really getting to be a pain. I have enough whining in my ears from tinitus without this as well!

Hi. I'm looking for a bulb for the climate control unit in my 2002 Disco. I've had the unit out and it's a non standard type thing with a rubber cover over the bulb. Not easy to find here in NZ unless you want a second mortgage. Thanks.

Also, you don't need to take the side bins and all the trim out either. Just remove the rear trim as described above and you can ease the carpet out as far as the rear seats.

That's a really great tip - wish I'd thought of that at the time!

Ha ha - love your optimism. Not sure that I'd put it in the 'easy peasy' catagory but thanks anyway. Loving the fact that my garage doesn't smell like a garage forecourt anymore though.

After enduring several months of the stench of diesel from my Discovery and the usual drips on the garage floor I decided to grasp the nettle and get on with the job. I preparation I carefully read a very helpful article ( that I found on the interweb which suggested that the job, whilst fiddly was possible to accomplish in an hour. I beg to differ. I should state that whilst not a professional mechanic, I have done engine swaps, gearbox replacements, converted my V8 110 from manual to auto and installed an lpg system so I do know one end of a torque wrench from the other. I confess that replacing the FPR on my Disco was one of the most horrendous jobs I have ever tackled on any vehicle. To say that the wretched thing is inaccessible is the undertatement of the year. It's buried almost out of sight between the engine block and the cooler. The top two bolts are easy enough to remove but the bottom one is only really accessible by touch and you have to feed the ratchet and the extension bar though the various pipes separately and then try to reconnect them out of sight and then locate the head of the bolt by feel. The article makes light of disconnecting the 'quick release fuel pipe connections' but this is actually a real pain in the a*se if you don't know that the one buried under the cooler will only come apart if you push the two parts of the connector towards eachother before pulling apart. I was there for near 45 minutes tryinmg to figure that out before having a Eureka moment. Once the FPR is actually out of the vehicle, reassembly is reasonably straight forward however trying to reinastall the unit with the thin metal gasket requires three hands and arms with UJs for elbows and about 2" in diameter. The above article talks about replacing the metal gauze filter set into the side of the block under the FPR- Forget it. You can barely see it let alone take it out and my advice is leave well alone. Having replaced the FPR and run the vehicle, it seems that the work has been largely successful. I have however noticed that there is now a very slight weep of fuel from the union between the rubber and metal portions of the pipe in the attached photo. I must have forced the pipe while trying to keep it out of the way during the work. If anyone knows the part number of this pipe then please let me know as I'll want to order another from the UK. In summary - IMHO, replacing the FPR is an absolute b*tch. Having done it once, it would probably be easier 2nd time around but I'd want to wait until the bruising and lacerations on my forearms from contorting them into unimaginable positions have subsided before tacking it again anytime soon!

Thanks. Kit ordered. Viewed the You Tube clip which was very interesting - looks as though this is a pretty fiddly operation. Looking forward to the challenge!

Thanks guys - I really appreciate your wisdom. Seems as though the overhaul kit is the way to go. Rangy95 - when you say get the new o-ring and gasket, do these come with the kit in your page link or do I need to order it separately from the same supplier?

Again, thank for the advice. I'll aim to order from the UK as I suspect a part like this from a dealer in NZ is likely to require a remortgage (over $150 for a set of injector seals - I kid you not). Where would you recommend ordering from?

Thanks very much guys. So the fuel pressure regulator - is this a replace or fix issue?

Hi, For the past few weeks I've noticed quite a strong smell of diesel when I've run the Disco for a while, particularly when it's parked in the garage after a run. The fuel pump (which I replaced a while ago) has been whining for a while. I noticed a few spots of leaking diesel under the car earlier todday and got under the investigate but couldn't see anything obvious. However, after poking about for a while I discovered that the foam soundproofing shroud over the gearbox is completely saturated with fuel to the extent that a slight squeeze produces a fairly sizable amount of diesel flowing down one's arm. From the above, I presume that there has been a small but continuous leak from a fuel pipe somewhere over the gearbox. I wasn't aware that the fuel pipes were routed over the gearbox but I know from experience that those plastic pipes get brittle so a leak is not entirely unexpected. My question is whether this is a common problem and can anyone advise of the part number for the pipe/s that I need to replace and how accessible are these for replacement. Any other pearls of wisdom gratefully received!

Hi all, I thought I'd just revisit this topic to say that I have now completed the replacement of my injector seals and normal service seems to have resumed (touch wood). For the benefit of others, I thought that I would list some personal observations that I made about the job. The article that I followed (quoted in my first post) is very good and helps greatly however as pointed out by others on this forum, you don't need to remove the fan or lock the cam. Be REALLY careful when you disconnect the injector harness plug under the front of the rocker cover that you don't break the plastic pipe that runs between the EGR cooler and the header tank. It's more fragile than the Dead Sea Scrolls - brittle isn't the word. My advice is to replace it anyway if it's original because if it doesn't break now, it'll break later. Replace the fuel injector harness. Mine was very oily and there was lots of oil in all the plug connections which should be thoroughly cleaned out. I found it imossible to disconnect the second fuel pipe from the fuel cooler to drain fuel from the cylinder head prior to the removal of the injectors - I think the term 'Quick Release connectors' is a misnomer. Instead I followed advice on thie forum and cranked the engine over a few times with the fuel pump disconected and the injectors out to expell any diesel from the cyliners prior to reassembly. Definately place a towel or something over the top of the engine first (clear of any moving parts) unless you want to spray diesel over the ceiling! Removing the injectors is very easy using one half of the disassembled adjustable grips as advised by others on this forum. You really don't need the special LR slide hammer tool. Damage to the old seals is very apparent (see attached photo). I found that the new seals are a VERY tight fit over the injectors and great care is required to install them. I carefully cleaned off some of the carbon from the injector stem with 400 grit abrasive paper and the applied some clean engine oil to help get them on. I ended up also having to use a small socket (8mm I think) over the injector stem and a little hammer to tap them into place. They deform very easily if you're not careful. Make sure that you follow the manual instructions for setting the pre-load on the injectors. Fit a new rocker cover gasket. I used the auto prime (pump the throttle 5 times with the key in position 1) to help expell air from the fuel lines but found that the engine still required quite a lot of cranking to fire. So far I'm really pleased with the result and the Discovery starts nice and willingly again. A huge 'thank you' to all who provided advice - you probably saved me a couple of grand by doing it myself!

Thanks guys.

Hi. I identified the hose part that I need which is PCH001360 and found a place in Oz that'll do it for arounf $45 which is a lot better than the $180 that the local dealer wants. Moving on to the replacement of the injector harness, can anyone advise the best way to clean the accumulated oil out of the female half of the plug that the harness connects to under the front of the rocker cover? I'm a bit reluctant to squirt and thing into it like WD40 but I'm not sure how else to drive the oil out of the little pin holes. Thanks - as ever!

Hi Neal. Hard to tell from the photo but I think it's just the plastic part. I'll need to check again when get home tonight. Thanks.

Hi Griff. Thanks very much for the link. Unfortunately I can't see the exact hose that I need on the diagram. They don't seem to list any hoses coming from the bottom of the header tank. This library photo shows the pipe coming off the top of the EGR heat exchanger and is the one I need. I may have to visit my local LR dealer to ID the hose and then purchase elsewhere if the cost is prohibitive.

I'm not sure if that is the part - it's quite hard to tell. I've attched a photo of where the pipe connects onto the cooler if that helps and also where it exits the bottom of the header tank (it's the pipe on the RHS).

Thanks for the information and I've made a start on the removal of the injectors. Upon removing the rocker cover it was apparent that the harness was very oily. The connector plug under the rocker is also full of oil, so probably not a good sign. In the process of removing the harness plug connection, I cracked the small coolant pipe that runs between the header tank and the top of the EGR cooler at the front of the engine. It was extremely brittle. Does anyone know the part number of this pipe? Anyway I'll start removong the injector tomorrow and report on progress.

Something I meant to ask (as I await the arrival of parts from the UK) is whether it is visibly apparent that the injector seals are/have been leaking when you take them out? Thanks.

Thanks a lot Ally - that'll save some money! Yes, it is a manual so I'll follow your advice. Also is it necessary to remove the fan?

Thanks a lot for the information guys. I've now ordered the parts from the UK so I'll get cracking as soon as they arrive. about 300% cheaper than buying locally. Also ordering a cam shaft locking pin and viscous fan wrench as I don't have either of threse!

I should add the following. I've traced the buzzing under the dash to the little induction fan that takes in cabin air for temperature so unrelated to the starting issues. Also the pump still sounds quite noisy when priming so not sure if the loom is the issue. Any thoughts? Thanks.

When she fires she runs pretty well. This evening we went out and did some shopping. Came back to the car park after 40 minutes. Refused to start. Cranked over 3-4 times nothing. Primed the pump for 30 seconds or so then tried again. Fired straight away and then died after 5 seconds running. Left her for about 3-4 minutes then tried again. Fired after about 5 seconds of cranking and ran perfectly. Drove home 5km no issues. It just doesn't feel like glo plugs because she's hard to start even when warm now. Incidentally, I noticed a buzzing sound from somewhere in the fuse box under the steering wheel when the key was in the pump prime position. Like a relay or something. Not noticed that before.

Thanks. Will get gen LR washers. Battery would start the Titanic. Question: Would issues with the harness produce the same symptoms as leaking injector seals?

Hi, I'm going to replace the injector seals on my 2002 Disco II to see if that resolves my starting issues. Replacing the fuel pump and filter have improved things slightly but it still requires two or three spins to get it started from cold or if it's been standing for a couple of hours. I've done some research and found a very good article by a guy who's done this work and covers it off with good photos and plenty of detail. (Refer: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector%20Seals.html) I'd be greatful that if anyone who has done this themselves, could perhaps let me know if there are any particular issues I'm likely to encounter along the way which are not covered off in the article. Is it work replacing the injector loom as well? Also how long the job is likely to take? The Disco is our only car so good to know if it's a 3 hour or 6 hour job! Thanks in advance