Anglo-Frenchman

Hi. I'm happy to report that after emailing LR NZ, they rang me at 0830 the following morning and provided me with the 4 digit code for my radio AND my EKA number which I also did not have - free of charge. My faith is restored in the marque. Mind you I stil refused to pay over NZ$1000 for a fuel pump which I bought on UK Ebay for 55UKP + 10 quid carriage.

Thanks Rangy35. I emailed Land Rover NZ so I'll wait and see how cooperative they are - or not. Failing that I know that there are a number of radio code cracking websites out there but most want paying - which I resent!

Thanks a lot and I'll check it out if Land Rovet NZ are unhelpful. I read somewhere that the code is the last 4 digits of the radio serial number but that sounds a bit too easy.

Thanks. Unfortunately I live in New Zealand so no V5 but perhaps Land Rover NZ will do the same thing.

Hi, I've just replaced the steering wheel volume control and disconnected the battery because I had to remove the air bag and didn't want it going off in my face. Long story short, the radio (photo attached) now needs it's code - which sadly I don't have. I've done a bit of web research and there is differing opinion about how to deal with this. I have tried entering a couple of codes such as 0000 or 1234 but neither worked and just locked me out for longer each time. Before I properly stuff it up, I wondered whether there is some clever way to get it going or if it's a case of going to a dealer (who I never use because their parts cost the equiavalent of 3rd World debt) and asking them nicely. Thanks in anticipation!

Ha ha. Good times. Might have been me - I was in SW Iraq 2003. The Disco is still not 100% but i have been advised to change the fuel filter and micro filter so I'll do that and then see how she goes.

Thanks for the advice Squaddiefox. Been out of the Regt for about 10 years now but once a Rockape always a Rockape!

Thanks for the info. I'll check this out. Are the one way valves somethnig that can be cleaned or is it a case of replace? I replaced the pump last weekend and initally seemed better but I note that there is still a bit of whining when the pump is primed and starting is still less than enthusiastic when cold.

Hi Rangy35 - sorry for the belated reply. Check your inbox!

Hi Griff, So far it's running Ok, just whining although I've noticed that the whining seems to stop after a kilometer or so. It makes me nervous because I recall that when the pump failed last time, it literally just gave out without warning leaving me stranded at the side of the road.

Sorry - noticed I previously posted this on the wrong forum. I've done a bit of research on the archive on this topic and it seems from the sudden whining coming from the fuel tank, that I need to replace the fuel pump in my Disco II. It was replaced about 18 months-2years ago but it appears from what I've read that they are quite prone to failure. My query is regarding where to source a new one from. I live in New Zealand where most suppliers load an extra 300% onto any LR parts from the UK as I found out when I needed some fuel pipes a while ago. I've seen various Discovery II pumps on UK Ebay anywhere between 70-299UKP but wanted to know if anyone can recommend a decent supplier of good quality pump that isn't going require a re-mortgage and who can send out here promptly. Thanks

Kia Ora, I've done a bit of research on the archive on this topic and it seems from the sudden whining coming from the fuel tank, that I need to replace the fuel pump in my Disco II. It was replaced about 18 months-2years ago but it appears from what I've read that they are quite prone to failure. My query is regarding where to source a new one from. I live in New Zealand where most suppliers load an extra 300% onto any LR parts from the UK as I found out when I needed some fuel pipes a while ago. I've seen various Discovery II pumps on UK Ebay anywhere between 70-299UKP but wanted to know if anyone can recommend a decent supplier of good quality pump that isn't going require a re-mortgage and who can send out here promptly. Thanks

Hi & thanks. Had to get the AA to take a look and they diagnosed a faulty ignition switch.

Hi, I'm visiting my elderly parents in the UK from New Zealand and having just driven my dad's 2002 V6 Freelander on a short trip (10 miles) it wouldn't re-start. Engine not turning over, no clicking, nothing. After about 15 minutes it inexplicably re-started and I got back to their house. When I tried to re-start it, same again. Nothing. I've had a about 10 Land Rovers over the past 25 years but not familiar with the Freelander. Could anyone offer any advice on this or should I just get Hometune out? Thanks

Thanks very much for the rapid response. I had no idea what OBDII compliant meant however my good friend Wikipedia has filled that void in my knowledge for me. Not sure whether this is within my somewhat average electronic ability otherwise it might mean a call to Hometune. Thanks again.

Hi Guys, Sorry to burden you with this but being such resourceful folk I figured I'd get a useful response. Tried posting this on a so-called VW fan site but got a flat nothing back so obviously they're all a bit dim over there. My son has a 1600 2003 Golf as his first car and during some recent maintenance his heavy-handed dad (me) broke a temperature sensor which resulted in a warning on his dash stating 'Emissions - Workshop' and that little engine symbol that we all know and love. Anyway I parted with the thoroughly reasonable $170 being demanded by the dealer for the new sensor and duly installed it in the car. Unfortunately the warning message still appears and the symbol is still illuminated. Do any of you know whether the computer has to be reset in order for the message to clear? As far as I know there are no other issues that should keep the thing still lit up. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi guys, thanks for the replies. Yes, the noise is audible when decelerating in 4th and 5th and gradually drops in tone but not loudness as the speed reduces. If I knock the engine out of gear and coast at speed, the noise goes away but returns if I depress the clutch while coasting in neutral. Hope that makes sense.

I've become aware of a high pitched whine that is mostly noticable when decelerating from around 80kph and which gradually drops in tone as the engine speed reduces down to around 30kph from where it generally becomes inaudible. If I drop the gearbox into neutral and coast, the noise disappears. I have also noticed that the noise can be heard when the clutch is depressed while coasting at speed. I've checked over the technical archive and suspect it might be the release bearing but would appreciate any advice.

Thanks. I should have explained that the issue is not the seal itself but the god-awful design of the pinion spigot that lies under the end of the rear prop. Designed by a moron.

After several abortive and documented efforts (two large slide hammers/lot of heat/bruised fingers etc) to remove my pinion seal (idiotic design) I was wondering whether there is a one-shot grease alternative to the EP90 oil in the rear diff (same as front swivels) which might be an alternative to the oil dripping from my diff. I suspect that because the oil is needed to lubricate the wheel hubs as well this is not likely to be viable but I thought I'd ask anyway.

Thanks for all the advice. I've now ordered the part from Paddocks for NZ$140 + carriage so about a third cheaper than the local dealer wanted to stiff me for. A total rort.

Hi Chris and I appreciate your swift reply. I've now found out the part number is WJP108110 and is for something called a 'fuel line cluster'! The mechanic discussed a possible temp repair using a petrol/diesel resistant 'putty' but advised against it because he said the pressure in the fuel line is too great (8psi?). Are you suggesting a couple of jubilee clips or something more specialist?

Hi, My Td5 has just started leaking diesel from a split plastic fuel pipe that exists the tank. A local mechanic has said that it needs to be replaced and can only get the entire fuel line kit from the UK at a cost of NZ$580.00 + GST and a delivery time of 1 1/2 weeks. I'm not sure of the part number so any help with that would be useful. Also does anyone know if it is possible to obtain this section of pipe individually or if I really need to buy a whole load of pipe that I don't need as well. Maybe Paddock or Craddock can do it mail order. Obviously being based in New Zealand, parts outlets are limited but there may be somewhere in Oz I can obtain it if any of our Australian readers have a contact there. Thanks.

It would probably have made more sense, given how stubborn it is to get this thing apart to have incorporated an M10 thread into the spigot or something with a bit more grunt rather than a weedy M8 which keeps shearing under pressure.

Thanks. I've managed to locate a big slide hammer for the weekend so I'm praying that it'll be man-enough for the task.