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dave88sw

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Everything posted by dave88sw

  1. I'm nearing the end of converting my dads defender to run megasquirt. So i guess i have to do all the bits i put off because i didn't know what to do at the time 🤣. He ordered a complete kit from megasquirt V8, it's a 3.5 v belt engine and so came with the appropriate bracket. The thing is, it goes on the back of the water pump housing. The original water pump bolts do not protrude out the back, so longer bolts are supplied in the kit. The bolts have a plain shank, meaning they bottom out on the thread before the bolts stick out the back. Am i supposed to drill out the thread so that the nut and bolt clamp the lot together, rather than tightening the bolt, then adding the bracket and nut to the back? If this is the case, can anyone see why i couldn't buy some fully threaded bolts to do this, as i'd rather not drill out the thread in the housing? The coolant temperature sensor has 2 wires, does it matter which way round they are connected? Inlet temp sensor - same question. Thanks Dave
  2. Thanks for the replies. I have measured the gap in the cylinder and they're fine, i was just surprised the new ring was narrower than the old one. You've put my mind at ease though, I've got to glaze bust the cylinder but hopefully i'll start fitting it up at the weekend. Thanks Dave
  3. Hoping someone can help put my mind at ease. I've just bought a set of piston rings for an engine i'm rebuilding. They're a good brand, ordered from my local engine remanufacturer who uses the brand for all of his rebuilds. When comparing them to the old rings, the top ring is a fair bit narrower (when viewed from the top, they're the same thickness where they fit in the groove). Should this matter? I imagine it should be fine as it's plenty wide enough to engage in the groove. The ring gap is within spec in all cylinders. Picture: Top ring is original, lower one is the new ring.
  4. The bolts go into riv nuts and my experience of trying to undo them was that the riv nut starts spinning every time... I drill the heads off, remove the frame from the runners, you then have a long stud to grip and unscrew if it will, if not, cut it off, knock the riv nut out and install a new riv nut.
  5. I have a few different scrapers, razor blades etc but it wont touch this stuff. I've spent about 3 hours on it now and I'm only about half way through. I guess I'll just have to keep going with it. Thanks for the replies
  6. Over the years i've had to remove all sorts of gaskets and sealants and its always been a job I absolutely hate, it's tedious and if you're not careful with the scraper it's very easy to gouge the surface. In particular the special anaerobic sealants used on many cars heads between the head and cam cover, like on the k series freelanders is really tough to shift. It dries rock hard and i've not found any solvents that will soften it. Has anybody ever found a product/method for removal that's effective? Also, while we're on the subject, what's peoples thoughts on the use of scotchbrite? I was always told to keep it well away from engines as the fibres are very fine and abrasive and they shed them quite heavily. But if care is taken to clean up after, and to stuff any open passageways with rag, is it really that bad? Thanks Dave
  7. I knew it was worth posting here... I'll have to see how much my wallet can take. Theres lots of other associated parts (timing belt kit, head gasket etc) so the spend is already looking pretty high, fairly encouraging to hear positive experience of the cheaper rods though. I'm not looking to increase power really, just prevent this happening again. I've already stripped the engine in the car, you're probably right that it would be easier to pull it out but i just havent got the space or equipment. From what i'd read about the turbos, most crack in the wastegate seat and lose boost pressure but unless it's noticeable most people leave well alone. I'll be happy just to have it running again. It's much better on fuel than my V8 disco1 or series 3 2.25 petrol!! Thanks Dave
  8. Hi, Posted this here because there are many users on this forum who can probably give me a better answer than anyone on the various Volvo forums... I have a T5 engined Volvo and i've bent a con rod (turbo overboost - didn't think it was possible but it's well documented and i've found a rod bent.). Looking at replacing with an upgraded part as I NEVER want to do this again, it's a major job with the engine still in the car. A supplier i've used before who have so far been very good have a set of forged rods for £396, which is a bit steep but they're no doubt good quality parts. However, i have found on ebay a set: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4340-TuV-Certification-Connecting-Rods-for-Volvo-850-C70-T5-V70-2-3L-ARP-Bolts/372658849460?fits=Car+Make%3AVolvo|Cars+Type%3AT5&hash=item56c432c6b4:g:npcAAOSwIVVcky-3 for just short of £260. Has anybody got any comments on the cheaper rods, should i stay clear of them? Found a few reviews for the brand that seem to be pretty good but no reviews for rods to suit a T5. Many thanks Dave
  9. I hadn't considered the servo take off - which is stupid really, as i owned a P38 not long ago... Thanks for all your replies, i'll mix and match the bits to end up with everything i need, but it sounds like i can't go far wrong with it. Thanks Dave
  10. I appreciate the suggestion and although it would almost certainly be easier, i can get hold of a standard R380 fairly cheaply. Also, if i'm going to fit a 300tdi, i'll have to alter the engine mounts anyway so i could quite easily move them forward. I'm just not sure whether i can leave the transfer box where it is or not, it would save a fair bit of time and money if i could. Thanks Dave
  11. Hi, I'm in the process of converting my dads V8 defender to megasquirt. The engine was a 3.5 flapper from an early range rover so we sourced another inlet manifold with the later injectors. The manifold is from a 4.6 gems V8 P38 Range Rover. I'm at the stage now where the loom is made and i can fit the plenum but I'm not sure about the trumpets. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the 4.6 trumpets on a 3.5? I understand they're different lengths depending on the engine size but what are the upsides/downsides of each? I still have the 3.5 inlet i can take the trumpets and base plate off if necessary. Many thanks Dave
  12. Hi, I'm thinking of changing the LT77 in my 110 to an R380 (It's currently a NA with LT77 and 1.6 transfer). I can get hold of a 1.4 transfer, R380 and 300TDI. I've done a few engine conversions before, that part of it is fine but i'm not sure on the best course to take with the gearbox. Most people seem to suggest putting the whole lot in the later standard position, which I believe is slightly forward of where the original drivetrain was mounted (If we use the transfer box as a reference point, apparently the whole lot sits about 40mm further forward). This would mean changing the props to 300 type. Is it possible to leave the transfer box in the standard position and just push the engine forward to account for the longer bellhousing? I've found no definitive answer to that but a few comments that it means you can't use standard hoses (not too fussed about that, i'd rather make up some hoses than chop the seatbox and floors about and have to source props). Does anybody have any experience of doing it this way? Many thanks Dave
  13. The fact that they block up in time says to me that they're doing a good job catching all the crud. Personally, i wouldn't want to bypass it, a seal kit for the sediment bowl is not expensive and it doesnt take long at all to take off the bowl and clean it out.
  14. As above, or, i've had similar symptoms with a blocked fuel sedimentor, not the filter under the bonnet, the sediment bowl on the inside of the drivers side chassis rail back by the fuel tank.
  15. I love the T5 idea, i've had both a phase 2 T5 V70 and now a phase 1 V70R. It's a cracking engine that i've often thought of putting in a Land Rover, obviously any engine conversion is going to present problems but the one i can't get past is the plastic timing chest. On an off road vehicle, it's likely to fill with mud and throw the belt off.
  16. I'd be putting a caliper on then... Would appear to be sticking if you're frequently warping discs on just that corner.
  17. The seat base foam and cover from a passenger seat fits the drivers side and couldnt be easier to fit...
  18. Hi, I've got a very strange problem to try and get to the bottom of. It's a 2010 Defender TDCI that was all running fine until the other day. It starts normally on the key and runs absolutely fine until i touch the brake pedal or put it in reverse. As soon as i do either, it cuts out. I've disconnected the brake light switch and the reverse light switch and the vehicle then runs and drives absolutely fine, but this obviously isn't a lasting fix as i need the lights working. Does anyone have any ideas? At this stage i don't know where to even begin. Thanks Dave
  19. On the top of the transfer box is a short rectangular housing held down with 6 bolts, the high/low selector arm enters through the end of the housing and a little finger pushes the selector inside the transfer box to shift ratios. If you remove that housing, inside is a grub screw that often comes loose, attaching the selector "finger" to the selector rod. The result of which is that everything looks like it is moving properly externally but nothing happens inside the transfer box when you go to shift.
  20. Was the old pump covered in black sooty deposits? Sounds like the injector washers are blowing by.
  21. I've got the same one, there's no real instruction as to how far you screw it onto the rivnut, only how to assemble the tool. It's a bit of guesswork really, i basically look at the rivnut and estimate how long the section that collapses is (the bit between the thread and the flange), then with the arms of the tool together, screw the rivnut on until it stops, open the arms and then screw the rivnut on the length you estimated, insert the rivnut in the hole and squeeze the arms together with a reasonable force or until they touch without going overboard. Then unscrew the tool and check it's reasonably tightly set in the hole. As long as it isn't loose enough to rotate as you thread a bolt in it should be fine, it will pinch up when you tighten the bolt.
  22. I'd echo Muddy, put a new chassis under yours. Have you driven a Discovery 3? I personally hate driving them, they go well but the handling is awful, feels like your driving a double decker with soggy suspension. I also hate the interior, the seats give me arse ache in 5 minutes, they're very typical of Ford; rock hard and no shape. Mine isn't a popular opinion, most seem to like them but it would be worth trying one out before you search for one. You also need deep pockets for repairs to a Discovery 3, remember they were a very expensive car when new and although the purchase price has dropped, you're still paying expensive car maintenance costs. You will NEED to be friendly with someone who has a Land Rover friendly diagnostic set up.
  23. I've already changed it for a solid state one in the hope that was the problem but no change. Thanks for the suggestion though
  24. Sorry for the slow response, I do appreciate the suggestions. I've just changed out the thermostat, for some reason it had an 82 degree one, I've stuck a 74 in. Unfortunately it's still getting a little warm. I'm fairly certain it's not an earth issue, it has multiple earth straps on the engine and the gauge earth is good and clean. I did however pull a couple of spark plugs earlier and they're very pale so that might explain it if it's running fairly lean. Cheers Dave
  25. I'll try and get hold of a thermometer but timing has been checked and set up following the advice in the third post on this thread: Biggest trouble being i can't really find definitive figures for setting the timing. It's currently at nearly 6btdc at idle (its a 8:1 compression head so manual suggests static figure of tdc but it runs much better at 6 before) It's a brand new radiator and i'm fairly sure there's no build up, in the 12 years i've owned it it's not been in 1 piece long enough to accumulate sludge!! Water pump is good. Thanks Dave
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