dave88sw

Thanks, that's useful. I've managed to clarify that the resistor is needed for the Discovery spec YBE100540 if connected directly to the 14cux, otherwise the speed sensor will burn out fairly quickly. (I also own a 96 V8 Discovery, that uses the YBE100540 as standard with 14cux, i did once find a wiring diagram for it and the speed signal goes to the speedo first and then from there to the engine ecu, i can only assume that the speedo head on a disco contains the necessary circuitry to look after the speed sensor). I think for the sake of a quid or 2 to order a 120 ohm resistor from ebay, it would be worth wiring it up with the resistor inline and trying it, i don't want to kill the TD5 speedo. If this works, i'll report back as i'm sure it would be useful to others.

So, I've decided to try the output from the TD5 speedo, it would appear to be exactly what the 14cux needs. I'll report back if it doesnt work. Can anyone advise whether the resistor is necessary/important. I cant find reference to it in any wiring diagram but I understand its built into the original range rover transducer. Is it to protect the transducer/speedo? Electrics are not my strong point... Thanks Dave

That's useful to know, thanks, it would be nice to get the mileage correct as mine only has 90000 on the clock currently. I found this thread: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/51712-def-td5-speedo-transducer/ The second post includes a paragraph from Rave which states that the speedo does double the speed signal, so it sounds like it would provide the perfect signal for the 14cux, has anyone ever used it before? Then, to muddy the waters even more, i found this thread: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/102859-speedo-transducer-input-for-14-cux/ This suggests that i need to put a 120 ohm resistor inline on the wire to the 14cux. Can anyone confirm that to be the case or not? Sorry for all the questions, i'm just the type that likes to know what i'm doing, rather than giving something a go and being disappointed when it doesn't work.

Thanks, I know on the earlier range rovers the transducer was inline. The issue with that is that the cables are hard to find these days and the transducer is expensive. (I'd also quite like to have the later electronic speedo) The discovery 1 v8 had a transducer (ybe100540) on the transfer box, this provided the 14cux with the correct speed signal (which as far as I can tell was 8200 pulses per mile) As western says though, the TD5 uses ybe100530 which is 4100 pulses per mile. It is said that this is fine when used to provide a speed signal to the 14cux but if the post I linked to above is correct, the TD5 speedo can provide the correct 8200 pulses per mile. Can anyone confirm that the td5 speedo does in fact output 8200 pulses per mile on pin 1? Thanks

Hi, I have no idea where to post this, as it relates to multiple different vehicles and trying to combine parts from different cars... I'm in the process of fitting a 3.9V8 with the 14cux management to my 1986 110. I want to get everything working as it should, so i've been looking into giving the ECU the speed signal it needs. To that end, studying wiring diagrams, it would appear that the speed signal comes straight from the speed sensor (transducer) on a Range Rover/Discovery. Please, correct me if im wrong but Discovery/Range Rover speed sensors provide 8200 pulses per mile? I've also found posts from 1 or 2 people who have used a TD5 speedo and transducer with the 14cux and they say it works, although, i've read that the TD5 speed transducer only produces 4100 pulses per mile. (theory being that the 14cux only really needs to see a signal of some description when it's moving, nothing too precise). So, looking into TD5 speedos, i stumbled across this post: https://nas-row.com/index.php?threads/td5-speedo-in-a-300tdi-truck.868/ 3rd post in. The image they've attached suggests that pin 1 doubles the signal to send it to the ecu (when used in a TD5). So, my question is, if i were to use a TD5 speedo, would it be best to wire the 14cux speed signal directly to the transducer output, or wire it to pin 1 on the speedo. It would seem that pin 1 outputs exactly what the 14cux is looking for, or is it not that simple? Thanks Dave

Thanks for the replies, I had guessed it was probably the gauge, but i guess i was quietly hoping it wasn't (they're over £100). I'll report back if i actually manage to sort it out as it would appear others have had the same issue.

Also, to add to that list, i changed the thermostat for the lower temp 72 degree one with no change.

Hi, I've got an ongoing problem with my series 3 2.25 petrol. The temperature gauge needle wants to sit just below the red section of the gauge, well above the "N". It definitely isn't getting hot, i can comfortably hold the top hose while the needle is telling me it's about to boil over, i can drive for over 50 miles and it doesn't overheat and i've checked with a laser thermometer that the engine itself isn't getting hot. It never loses any water, the fan belt is tight and it's had a recent coolant change. In an attempt to cure this issue i have: Changed the voltage stabiliser for a solid state modern replacement (fuel gauge works perfectly) Checked the earth attached to the gauge unit Added additional earths between bulkhead/engine and engine/chassis Checked the cleanliness of all connection on the wire between the gauge and the sender unit Changed the sender for multiple different brands (tried genuine, intermotor etc, all the same) I've owned this car for 15 years, since i was 14 years old and unfortunately, this issue is preventing me from driving it, i can't stand looking at the gauge telling me it's overheating. I've considered fitting an aftermarket gauge and sender, however, i really don't want to just work round the problem, i want to fix the original. Any help would be massively appreciated, i'm at my wits end with it. Thanks Dave

If you're in Bristol, Advanced Autocooling on the trading estate at Avon Valley are very good, had a few radiators re-cored by him.

Thank you very much for the suggestions, john eales has some in stock so I've ordered a set. I was aware there are 2 kits but I believe they're interchangeable? Only difference being the Buick kit has the extra 4 studs for 14 bolt heads. Mines a bit of a mix, being a 14 bolt block but with 10 bolt heads so I can use composite gaskets. Thanks again Dave

Sorry, i didn't word that very well, Real Steel would normally have them but they're out of stock for at least 2 weeks. I've asked them to contact me when they come in and if necessary i'll wait but I really would like to get this build moving. I just wondered if there was anyone i'd forgotten that might have them in stock. Thanks Dave

Hi, I'm in the process of rebuilding my 3.9V8, i want to use ARP head studs but i can't find anyone with any stock at the moment. Does anybody know of someone who stocks them? I've tried Real Steel, Rimmer Bros, V8Tuner and lots of the other generic ARP dealers. They're all currently out of stock but i could really do with getting the heads on soon and don't really want to use bolts. Thanks Dave

As we're on the subject of batteries, i bought a Numax 072 for my series 3 more than 15 years ago, it's been allowed to go dead flat (radio drain) on many occasions, sometimes for whole winters. Despite that, it still holds a good charge and cranks the series over pretty strong, even when the fuel has drained back and it needs to spin over a fair bit. I'm so impressed with it that i'll only fit Numax batteries to my cars now.

Had the same thing happen before, the height sensor failed, car thought the suspension was low that side so kept pumping the spring until it exploded. Buy a genuine height sensor for replacement unless you have a diagnostic computer that can calibrate the cars height. I've found all the aftermarket sensors have a slightly different reading to the original part so if you only change one, the car sits with a lean.

Well, i got my head back from the engineers, they gave it a very light skim apparently. Checked the block, absolutely nothing wrong there and all the bolt holes were clean. Nevertheless, i thoroughly flushed out the holes, wound an old bolt in to each one in turn to measure the depth and all are the same, no tight spots on the threads etc. I'll try and add some pics of the gasket soon, but not only had it burnt through from no 3 and 4 into the triangular coolant passage, no 1 had also burned through the fire ring but hadnt yet burned through to coolant/oil passageways. So, the original gasket (that only lasted 5000 miles) was ordered online, it came in an elring branded package and i had no reason to think there was anything wrong with it. However, the new one came from a local spares place that i absolutely trust, it too was in an elring branded package but there are a number of differences between the 2. Mostly in the markings on the gasket, there is a small impression of the elring logo on both, but on the new gasket, the logo is bigger, also, the "top" marking is much bigger on the new gasket. It's difficult to say because its been almost a year since i fitted the last one but i think the coating on the new gasket is "stickier" too. Anyway, it's now back together again and running well, i borrowed a snap on digital torque wrench (that also does angles) to put the head on. It's nice to use because it beeps when you reach the required angle but also tells you what torque was required to achieve that angle, which is nice because it gives you a good idea if any of them have bottomed out or are tight in the threads. I'm happy to say, they were all very similar. Time will tell if it lasts this time. Thanks Dave

Heater was working lovely, it was definitely circulating water, I'm confident it wasnt overheating but I do have concerns that perhaps the cylinder temp was too high with the boost pin fitted (I.e. cooling system coping but excess fuel causing high cylinder temp). As an aside, would the timing spacer ring be an issue if it was left in without the boost pin? Most people seem to suggest the 2 go together but i did find a post suggesting small gains with standard fuelling, theoretically lowering egt. Thanks Dave

Thanks for the replies, the water pump was new at the same time as the last head gasket, so it's only 5000 miles old. It's not shown any sign of overheating at all, the needle always sits in the middle, which is what makes the sudden failure of the gasket so surprising. I carefully checked the gasket before fitting and it was torqued down with a snap on digital torque wrench. The torque wrench also does the angle settings but i put a spot of paint on one of the points of the hex of the bolt and the head to check the accuracy too (each point on the bolt head should be 60 degrees apart). I checked the block with a straight edge and the head was skimmed prior to fitting so must have been flat. Is it likely to be anything to do with having the boost pin fitted? It's not particularly smokey, small amount of black smoke when accelerating up a hill but that's to be expected. I only fitted it because the car has a 1.2 transfer box and as such is a bit too high geared. I'm now thinking about removing the pin and trying to source a 1.4 transfer box. Thanks Dave

Hi, I rebuilt the engine in my 110 last year, including a new elring head gasket and bolts. The head was skimmed and pressure tested by a good machine shop. I've done 5000 miles since, running well with good power. It has a boost pin and timing advance spacer fitted but the boost has not been turned up, it's done no towing, never been overheated, never lost a drop of water until last night. I was driving home, all running fine, not even up to temp yet when I noticed plumes of white smoke behind me. I pulled over immediately and it near immediately cut out. Opened the bonnet, it was spewing water out the header tank but it wasnt particularly hot water, thought I'd just see if it would fire up again but it wouldnt turn over. So. I took the glow plugs out, turned the engine, number 3 and 4 full of coolant. I then took the head off, block and head both look ok but I've dropped the head with the engineer again for a check. The gasket had blown between 3 and 4 into the triangular coolant passageway. I am absolutely confident it was fitted properly, I've done more 300 heads than I care to remember but ive never known one go after 5000 miles. Has anyone got any suggestions for things I should check? I really don't want to be doing it again. Thanks Dave

As far as i'm aware there were no differences in the block. Happy to be proven wrong though. Lots of little differences in the top end, injectors are different, fuel rail set up, egr cooler (really late ones had a square fuel cooler which was much better sealed than the earlier tube type) etc

If the fuel pressure regulator has an extra pipe that goes forward along the side of the head behind the inlet manifold to a fitting screwed in at the front of the head, right behind the sprung loaded timing chain tensioner, it is a 15p. If it only has 2 pipes attached to it, it's a 10p engine. Land Rover made the fuel return external on the later engines, rather than an internal channel in an attempt to stop the head cracking and filling the sump with diesel (although it wasn't a complete cure).

Thanks for the replies, really helpful! I did look at the hex screw on the inlet pondering what it was for, I'll wind it in and see what happens. I have blocked off the IAC valve ports so there should be no external air leaks. Thanks again Dave

Hi, My dad and I have just got his 3.5 V8 Defender running on megasquirt. It was a complete kit from Megasquirtv8 loaded with a base map. It seems to run very well, but although it idles around 900rpm on cold start (i'd guess that's about right as it's in warm up mode), the idle speed seems to increase as it warms up, ending up about 1200-1300rpm. The target idle speed is set at 830rpm, but we've tried dropping it with no change. We have calibrated the TPS and again, no change. It has no IAC valve, so as i understand it, it's to be expected that the Idle is higher than usual but this does seem excessive. The throttle flap would appear to be basically fully closed and we've checked for inlet leaks and can't find anything. I should say, it's not actually been on the road yet, so no tuning has been done but it would be nice to know how we might be able to get the idle down. Thanks in advance, Dave

This is something that concerns me, particularly when they launch E10 this year. What's the solution? Is there anything resistant to ethanol that will last well?

On my 110 van, the VIN plate is marked 3050kg, but the logbook states a gross weight of 2999kg. The MOT tester wasn't happy to test it as a class 4 until i showed him the logbook.

The alternative, as said, is to send the ecu away. i just preferred to do as i said for a couple of reasons; first, the original gauge is not an accurate indication of engine temp, it has no scale and so as not to alarm the driver, it doesn't creep up in normal use, instead it reads "normal", until it suddenly jumps into the red when it's all a bit too late. Second, it's cheaper to fit a new gauge and with Defenders using standard size 52mm gauges, a VDO vision gauge looks original, can be green illuminated and gives a scale in degrees celsius.