dave88sw

the rear warm hub cap might be because of binding brakes. jack the rear wheel up and turn to make sure it turns freely and wind the brake adjuster out slowly until the wheel spins nicely. For the front, do as suggested above Dave

worth noting that the range rover classic leather wheel fits too and has a much nicer (in my opinion) centre boss cover, thats it you can put up with the range rover badge on the steering wheel of your defender. Dave

might be a bit late now, but if youd already bought the anti burst lock, you only need to make a hole in the door for the barrel to poke through and they fit, you also have the benefit of anto burst locks.

i think he means the rubber protector, not sure where you could get one. Ebay? or a scrapyard unless someone can give you a part no. Dave

you'll have to notify the dvla of the increase in seats i think. the insurance company would need to know the correct number of seats too. Otherwise it's quite simple to fit seats in the back. If you plan to use child seats, you might be best looking at exmoor trims lock and fold seats (have a look here, http://trakkers.co.uk/). The new defender has a different wheel box design for the seats to mount so i would imagine are difficult to mount in earlier vehicles. good luck Dave

If its of any use, i ordered a marslands chassis through paddocks, it came direct from marslands not paddocks, the delivery came to £140 once tax had been added. Took the total to £940 all in, i'm happy with the chassis though, everything lines up nicely, if you have a cordless drill handy jst make sure you whip it through the holes to clear the zinc and use copper grease liberally on the threads of the bolts to stop and rust forming. I can't comment on the others but im perfectly happy with marslands and they were by far the cheapest. Dave

you have to remember to engage them every now and then to lubricate the top swivel pin as this is purely lubricated by the swivel oil splashed on it by a spinning halfshaft. Just another thing to faff around with and virtually no gain whatsoever.

I've measured my series 3 against my dads defender, the bolt holes for the bumper are identical so a defender winch bumper should fit, just make sure the lower face of the bumper isnt too wide because it could potentially foul against the front of the spring hanger andnot allow the bumper to slide all the way on. Hope that helps

i would have thought it would be an mot failure as a sharp object protruding from the side of the vehicle ready and waiting to take a chunk out of a pedestrian. I would have thought there were better options out there and surely a padlock on every door would be a pain, you'd have to carry around the same number of keys as a prison warden and you couldnt just get in and out youd have to remove the padlock, get in, put it somewhere and remember to put it back after. I'd keep looking or adapt an existing lock to do the job, possibly a yale type latch?

so is it a standard relay on the rear screen heater? i always thought it was timed to prevent the screen overheating and burning out. thanks if anyone can answer

i looked into this a while ago and the biggest problem i found was the fuel filler neck, because it comes up just behind the seat and then passes through the bulkhead and up behind it, if you removed the bulkhead, the seat wouldnt go any further back because it would contact the filler neck, maybe you could reroute it with a bit of care. One possibility i thought of was to put in a rear rollover hoop as they dont have a lot of upper strength anyway, this would mount a few inches back from the bulkhead, then weld some braces/brackets to the hoop to bolt to the tub sides to restore the strength provided by the bulkhead and just cut the bulkhead out,in theory it would work, but lack of funds has meant it hasnt yet become reality. hope that helps

is it swb or lwb? parabolics and 1 ton shackes on an 88 could well give you problems with the rear prop binding, it doesnt take much cos its so short, the answer is a wide yoked special or a double carden. i agree with the above for shocks etc hope that helps

can i ask why you want them? just wondering whether theres a special reason ive missed

tailgate brackets for defender are bolt on and holes should already be there, although i think some early ones had welded on hinges. any of the usual places should be able to supply them like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-...A1%7C240%3A1318 again, a tailgate can be supplied new by most parts suppliers for around £85 but good second hand ones are available from ebay or autojumbles. allwheeltrim have a good reputation and can supply you all the sticks and brackets you'll need http://allwheeltrim.co.uk/ hope thats of some help

you cut the wires and put them the right way? if they worked before the only reason i can think is that maybe youve changed something that didnt want changing just an idea, otherwise id suggest brake light switch too

military were one above the other as has been said, all the series 2's ive seen have been side lights on outer edge, including marketing brochures ive seen that date back to the launch and the time they were on sale hope that helps

you tried holding it across to difflock and driving for a while and slowly release it, see whether it stays there, otherwise it could be a badly adjusted diff lock switch, i have seen them prevent difflock engaging because they're woundin too far

is the front panel your trying to fit standard? ive seen many conversions where they're sliced off everything level with the front sheet of steel so that it has no depth and then bolt the radiator straight to the back, so you're moving the radiator forward without moving the panel, would this help your situation? is there enough room? just a thought

any aftermarket one with an alternator pickup connected to the w terminal will do, there are usually 2 types, alternator and coil i think,its in the ignition circuit on a petrol anyway so yeah, you want an alternator pickup one

as previous posts, but id definately make sure you buy a range of colours, dont stick to red and black-youll regret it when the first fault comes along

youre earthing it through the speedo? well theres the problem in my opinion, the earth is tiny as its only designed for the dash illumination. The accesory wire is to switch the radio on automatically wehen you turn the ignition on however if you dont need this function just connect accessory and battery feed together. earth is obviosuly chassis earth, the remote feed is to swictha an external amp.electronic aerieal. hope that helps on the scotchlocks, take them out and burn them and any other stock of them youhave they are awfulhateful things that have no place in a vehicle, use proper crimp connectors.

£25?!?!?!?!?! theyre stupid little bars with a hole in each end, just get a small strip of metal and drill a hole in it!!!! they literally just join lamp back to something to stop them wobbling, you can quite easily do this without spending that kind of money

Series transfer box selection is with the 2 (yellow and red) knobs, Fridges description of how this works is correct except that the red lever is 2wd high range when FORWARD (front of vehicle), to engage 4wd high range depress the yellow knob and dont touch the red one, to then disengage 4wd in high range, stop and pull the red lever right back and the yellow knob should pop back up, then return red lever to the forward position. To engage 4wd low range, simply pull the red lever right back and ignore yellow knob. Just for clarity, the middle position on the red lever is neutral on the transfer box. The lights inside the gauges - inside the speedo on the left hand side you have oil pressure warning light, if this comes on dont ignore it, switch the engine off and first check oil level as this is often the problem, the middle blue one is "main" beam, brightest setting for head lights and the right one should be cold start, choke warning on a petrol, glow plug light on a diesel?, then in the other cluster of gauges to the right, there should be a red "charge" light, as said, this illuminates whent the alternator, or dynamo depending which fitted is not putting out sufficient power. Last, the glow plugs are usually used for 10-20 seconds on average, condition of the plugs and engine will influence this And yes, it is a great vehicle p.s. the arrangement of transfer levers is definately correct for my series, i'm hoping its correct for all applications and i didnt mean to be rude in correcting fridge cos im sure he knows a lot more than me in general

You removed both the caps? the one in radiator and the stat housing? the one in the stat housing is only to bleed the air, the correct sequence is to fill the radiaitor through the cap, replace both caps and then fill header tank to line, the water pump provides water to the head and it isnt actually full of water like most engines, threw me the first time i did it too.

yeah, just unbolt them along the roof line and the top of the tub, you should probs get away with leaving the roof on if you support it well, drill out all the capping rivets and replace and then replace with new seal top and bottom