dave88sw

Hi, I'm hoping to get some painting done tomorrow, the paint i've bought is from the paintman, i've got a tin of grey primer and a tin of white top coat. I've used the top coat straight over sound paint in the past with just a good key of the surface, it seems to take about 3-4 hours to touch dry but at least overnight to really set. Can anyone give me an idea of how long i need to let the primer dry before i key it for the top coat? I'd imagine it's not as long as the top coat, it would be great to get the primer and top coat on tomorrow if possible. Thanks Dave

The lifting bracket bolts to the back of the head i think? Not the head bolt. Even so, either method would be fine, a little trick for fitting the head in the car is to insert the rear 2 head bolts into the head before offering it up to the engine, if you lift them so that the end of the bolt is just above the deck of the head and then cable tie the 2 together to put a little side tension on them, they won't drop down and get in the way. Once in the car it's no trouble getting a socket and extension on there.

They are but they're bonded on, would be an absolute nightmare to remove without breaking it, you then have to source and fit the original side window assembly and probably repaint because you'll never get the adhesive off without ruining the paint so by the time you've done all that, sourcing a second hand set of sides is probably cheaper.

I would put money on the loom being chaffed where it crosses over the top of the transfer box, particularly if it does it when you lift off and the transfer box shifts on its mounts... Remove cubby box and access panel beneath and check the loom thoroughly.

Hi, I recently fitted a double s stainless cat back exhaust system to my 96 v8 discovery. At that point it had the standard downpipes with good cats. I was quite pleased with it but did notice if I left it idling for a while or if I'd been on the overrun for a little while, when I then accelerated away I'd get a funny parp from the exhaust for a few seconds, like a high pitched buzz. It never really bothered me because it was only very occasional. The cats later failed and started rattling and as a temporary solution I've put a non cat downpipe on just because I had one kicking about. Now the resonance is much worse, any engine braking results in lots of loud buzzing when I get back on the throttle and it's quite loud. A bit of reading on the internet suggests stainless exhausts are particularly prone to resonating but what can I do to stop it? I dont want to lose the stainless system as it was quite expensive. I've seen resonated exhaust tips suggested but have no experience of them, would they be worth a go? Thanks Dave

I've just finished putting relays into my lighting loom. It was really quite simple, needs only 2 relays and keeps all lights fused by their original fuses. The lighting circuit is fairly simple, big brown wire (permanent 12v live) feeds the main headlight switch, headlight switch directly feeds sidelights, second click of switch puts power out on a solid blue wire. This wire goes through the loom to the fusebox where it goes through a relay (ignition switched relay, purely turns the lights off when the key is turned off, it doesn't take any load off the switch). The blue wire then returns to the indicator stalk which acts as a changeover switch between dip and main beam. Dip beam feed is then on a blue/red wire and main beam on a blue/white leaving the indicator stalk. Before these wires reach the fusebox they T off into 2 to feed lh and rh lamps. Fused feed then goes to headlights. What i did was cut and extend the wires just after they leave the indicator stalk, use the feeds from the indicator stalk to trigger the relays on pin 85, pin 86 to earth (One relay for dip and one for main). Take a nice chunky live feed to the Relays (Wise to fuse this wire at around 15amps, it will see the load of both lights) on the switching side (i.e. pin 87 or 30) then the other terminal to the wire in the loom where you cut it from the indicator stalk. Doing it like this, you only need 2 relays, you keep all your factory fuses doing their original job, it can all be hidden behind the dash (mine are in relay holders screwed to the bulkhead alongside heated rear window voltage sensitive switch), you don't have to touch the loom in the wings and you take all the load off the switches. Hope that helps somebody. Dave

I think the reason they don't fold is that when the base is folded up, it fouls on the backrest of the middle row seats. That's just from memory though, i might be totally wrong.

Shortly after i bought my Discovery V8 (about 5 years ago), the cats started to rattle and eventually broke up completely, filling the centre silencer with lumps of cat. I wasn't particularly happy with the way it ran at the time and after a bit of poking about found the air flow meter was dead amongst other things so it was running very rich. I put the death of the cats down to that. I fitted a second hand pair (along with a new stainless cat back system) that appeared to be in good condition and had no trouble passing the MOT, emissions were very good (I have fitted megajolt with the original 14cux so it runs really very well) and ever since, i've been happy with the way it runs and recently got over 18mpg on a trip to cornwall. All this leads me to believe it's running as it should be and the mixture can't be too far off, however, the cats have just started rattling fairly loudly at idle from time to time. What causes the cats to fail? Is it simply because i bought a second hand pair, so they've probably done as much as the originals? I'm happy enough to spend the money on some good quality replacements (any recommendations?!) but only if i'm confident that they'll last and it's not going to kill them too. Thanks Dave

I'm nearing the end of converting my dads defender to run megasquirt. So i guess i have to do all the bits i put off because i didn't know what to do at the time 🤣. He ordered a complete kit from megasquirt V8, it's a 3.5 v belt engine and so came with the appropriate bracket. The thing is, it goes on the back of the water pump housing. The original water pump bolts do not protrude out the back, so longer bolts are supplied in the kit. The bolts have a plain shank, meaning they bottom out on the thread before the bolts stick out the back. Am i supposed to drill out the thread so that the nut and bolt clamp the lot together, rather than tightening the bolt, then adding the bracket and nut to the back? If this is the case, can anyone see why i couldn't buy some fully threaded bolts to do this, as i'd rather not drill out the thread in the housing? The coolant temperature sensor has 2 wires, does it matter which way round they are connected? Inlet temp sensor - same question. Thanks Dave

Thanks for the replies. I have measured the gap in the cylinder and they're fine, i was just surprised the new ring was narrower than the old one. You've put my mind at ease though, I've got to glaze bust the cylinder but hopefully i'll start fitting it up at the weekend. Thanks Dave

Hoping someone can help put my mind at ease. I've just bought a set of piston rings for an engine i'm rebuilding. They're a good brand, ordered from my local engine remanufacturer who uses the brand for all of his rebuilds. When comparing them to the old rings, the top ring is a fair bit narrower (when viewed from the top, they're the same thickness where they fit in the groove). Should this matter? I imagine it should be fine as it's plenty wide enough to engage in the groove. The ring gap is within spec in all cylinders. Picture: Top ring is original, lower one is the new ring.

The bolts go into riv nuts and my experience of trying to undo them was that the riv nut starts spinning every time... I drill the heads off, remove the frame from the runners, you then have a long stud to grip and unscrew if it will, if not, cut it off, knock the riv nut out and install a new riv nut.

I have a few different scrapers, razor blades etc but it wont touch this stuff. I've spent about 3 hours on it now and I'm only about half way through. I guess I'll just have to keep going with it. Thanks for the replies

Over the years i've had to remove all sorts of gaskets and sealants and its always been a job I absolutely hate, it's tedious and if you're not careful with the scraper it's very easy to gouge the surface. In particular the special anaerobic sealants used on many cars heads between the head and cam cover, like on the k series freelanders is really tough to shift. It dries rock hard and i've not found any solvents that will soften it. Has anybody ever found a product/method for removal that's effective? Also, while we're on the subject, what's peoples thoughts on the use of scotchbrite? I was always told to keep it well away from engines as the fibres are very fine and abrasive and they shed them quite heavily. But if care is taken to clean up after, and to stuff any open passageways with rag, is it really that bad? Thanks Dave

I knew it was worth posting here... I'll have to see how much my wallet can take. Theres lots of other associated parts (timing belt kit, head gasket etc) so the spend is already looking pretty high, fairly encouraging to hear positive experience of the cheaper rods though. I'm not looking to increase power really, just prevent this happening again. I've already stripped the engine in the car, you're probably right that it would be easier to pull it out but i just havent got the space or equipment. From what i'd read about the turbos, most crack in the wastegate seat and lose boost pressure but unless it's noticeable most people leave well alone. I'll be happy just to have it running again. It's much better on fuel than my V8 disco1 or series 3 2.25 petrol!! Thanks Dave

Hi, Posted this here because there are many users on this forum who can probably give me a better answer than anyone on the various Volvo forums... I have a T5 engined Volvo and i've bent a con rod (turbo overboost - didn't think it was possible but it's well documented and i've found a rod bent.). Looking at replacing with an upgraded part as I NEVER want to do this again, it's a major job with the engine still in the car. A supplier i've used before who have so far been very good have a set of forged rods for £396, which is a bit steep but they're no doubt good quality parts. However, i have found on ebay a set: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4340-TuV-Certification-Connecting-Rods-for-Volvo-850-C70-T5-V70-2-3L-ARP-Bolts/372658849460?fits=Car+Make%3AVolvo|Cars+Type%3AT5&hash=item56c432c6b4:g:npcAAOSwIVVcky-3 for just short of £260. Has anybody got any comments on the cheaper rods, should i stay clear of them? Found a few reviews for the brand that seem to be pretty good but no reviews for rods to suit a T5. Many thanks Dave

I hadn't considered the servo take off - which is stupid really, as i owned a P38 not long ago... Thanks for all your replies, i'll mix and match the bits to end up with everything i need, but it sounds like i can't go far wrong with it. Thanks Dave

I appreciate the suggestion and although it would almost certainly be easier, i can get hold of a standard R380 fairly cheaply. Also, if i'm going to fit a 300tdi, i'll have to alter the engine mounts anyway so i could quite easily move them forward. I'm just not sure whether i can leave the transfer box where it is or not, it would save a fair bit of time and money if i could. Thanks Dave

Hi, I'm in the process of converting my dads V8 defender to megasquirt. The engine was a 3.5 flapper from an early range rover so we sourced another inlet manifold with the later injectors. The manifold is from a 4.6 gems V8 P38 Range Rover. I'm at the stage now where the loom is made and i can fit the plenum but I'm not sure about the trumpets. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the 4.6 trumpets on a 3.5? I understand they're different lengths depending on the engine size but what are the upsides/downsides of each? I still have the 3.5 inlet i can take the trumpets and base plate off if necessary. Many thanks Dave

Hi, I'm thinking of changing the LT77 in my 110 to an R380 (It's currently a NA with LT77 and 1.6 transfer). I can get hold of a 1.4 transfer, R380 and 300TDI. I've done a few engine conversions before, that part of it is fine but i'm not sure on the best course to take with the gearbox. Most people seem to suggest putting the whole lot in the later standard position, which I believe is slightly forward of where the original drivetrain was mounted (If we use the transfer box as a reference point, apparently the whole lot sits about 40mm further forward). This would mean changing the props to 300 type. Is it possible to leave the transfer box in the standard position and just push the engine forward to account for the longer bellhousing? I've found no definitive answer to that but a few comments that it means you can't use standard hoses (not too fussed about that, i'd rather make up some hoses than chop the seatbox and floors about and have to source props). Does anybody have any experience of doing it this way? Many thanks Dave

The fact that they block up in time says to me that they're doing a good job catching all the crud. Personally, i wouldn't want to bypass it, a seal kit for the sediment bowl is not expensive and it doesnt take long at all to take off the bowl and clean it out.

As above, or, i've had similar symptoms with a blocked fuel sedimentor, not the filter under the bonnet, the sediment bowl on the inside of the drivers side chassis rail back by the fuel tank.

I love the T5 idea, i've had both a phase 2 T5 V70 and now a phase 1 V70R. It's a cracking engine that i've often thought of putting in a Land Rover, obviously any engine conversion is going to present problems but the one i can't get past is the plastic timing chest. On an off road vehicle, it's likely to fill with mud and throw the belt off.

I'd be putting a caliper on then... Would appear to be sticking if you're frequently warping discs on just that corner.

The seat base foam and cover from a passenger seat fits the drivers side and couldnt be easier to fit...