krissvdh

First release! http://www.mod-sales.com/direct/vehicle/,25,/77257/Land_Rover.htm

So, The bracket. Untitled by Kris Strang van den Heuvel, on Flickr The extra nuts Untitled by Kris Strang van den Heuvel, on Flickr The guard with the slots to slot over loosened 10mm bolts. Untitled by Kris Strang van den Heuvel, on Flickr Thanks

I'll start this off by saying the folk at Mobile Storage Systems have been nothing but helpful during my extended purchase of their window guards. The final piece of the jigsaw arrived today and I'm sat in the back of the Landy scratching my head. I'm sure I'm making this difficult somehow but I can't seem to be able to follow the instructions given.. I'm trying to fit the rear 1/4 guards. The instructions state "loosen bolts that secure roof to the back panel 10mm spanner". This I understand. This, I don't... I have a large bracket, presumably for the sole use of the seat belt anchor which is coupled to the roof via three studs/captives/nuts which rather conflict with the fitting of the guards. Do I need to remove this bracket and is it safe to do so? I won't be using the seat belts again. Pictures to follow. Any insight appreciated. I'd speak to MSS but they are closed and I desperately wanted these in and done tonight. Kris

Thanks for your input. It is just to protect the main cable from the battery through to the opposite seat box which is where the fuse box is located. The fuse box won't feed anything mission critical and will keep any and all accessories separate from the vehicle wiring loom. It's only a short run but I'd rather like to follow a belt and braces approach. Kris

I'm hoping someone with a more reasoned mind will be able to assist me. I'm just gathering up the last few bits to install a pair of aux fuse boxes (1 X 6 Feed & 1 X 12 Feed) and i'm undecided on the benefits and drawbacks of large 100A fuses over a similar rated circuit breaker. Obviously the need to carry spare fuses is not a massive drawback but space is limited when it comes to replacing them. I'm specifically looking at Blue Sea marine circuit breakers which are said to be pretty durable with regards to water ingress and vibration. Now the reason i'm undecided is the fact that I have not seen many folk use them when doing a similar job. Is there a reason behind this that I am missing? This load of wiring is going to be a proper job and i'd like to be happy with it and get it right first time. Regards Kris

I insured my 110 with the NFU. They were bend over backwards helpful. I gave them a list of all current modifications, purchase price and expected modifications. They were pretty cheap including the fact that I too have no no claims bonus for similar reasons. The cover is comprehensive. They also have an agreed price for the 110 and photos of it and the relevant valued mods so there is no quibble. I couldn't recommend them enough. Kris

Just my 2p, we used to have a problem on Mondeo whereby the rear pads would rattle and sound much like you have described. The FoMoCo solution for this was a particularly thick and water resistant silicone grease. I use it on all my pads now and assembly of materials likely to generate corrosion and it works a charm. N.B. When I say on pads I mean on the points where it meets the pad carrier not on the friction surface! :-) Kris

Stumbled across this. Links most appreciated CwazyWabbit. Kris

There is a warranty route for damaged engines although it's not clear if the repair includes a whole new engine. Kris

Hi folks. I had a Service action pass over my desk this morning regarding the recall of Transit 2.2 with engines built between Sept 2011 and 31st December 2012. This is regarding oil pump failure resulting in reduced oil pressure and consequential engine damage if the oil pressure light illuminates. The Ford number for this is 4S616. There is a revised oil pump required to remedy this fault. If it's of interest i'll try and scan a copy and put it up here. 15 months is a fair few engines i'd say. Best regards. Kris

Ralph that is outstanding, thanks. Also thanks for the link to that great resource. As soon as I'm earning again I'll be setting up a standing order by way of thanks to LR4X4 members. Kris

Great. Thanks very much for your help. Kris

Super, it's the inner one on the left near the reflector. Do you know how the nut is attached to the L section? Is it possible to release it so the whole thing can be punched through and a nut and bolt used to replace it? Many thanks for the reply. Kris.

I think I've made a hopefully not insurmountable mistake. On my '09 110 CSW I have removed the rear ladder which was peeling and corroded. In the process I have snapped one of the outer crossmember bolts which holds the base of the ladder in the near side. One of the pair came out with no problem although looking at the head of the bolt and the state of the torx I'd say it's been out before. The other however made it out a couple of turns before shearing off. Now I'd get underneath and check it out myself but I'm stuffed waiting for surgery with a slipped disc and wasn't anticipating this 'malfunction' (supposed to be an easy job to get me out of the house). My question is what holds the bolt? Is it a simple nut, a captive or a threaded bracket? I think my old one was a nut and bolt. It's all inside the bodywork rather than an external bracket. If it's a captive or threaded I will leave it and drill it out when I'm up to health. Or if it's an easy fix I'll get one of the lads at work to do it. When I do get it out is it best to go for a genuine bolt with a dose of copper slip or is there another recommended fastener? I have not yet seen many Puma Defender threads where things have gone rotten. I think I'll get the ladder and front light guards powder coated while they are off. Thanks, Kris

Good posts Robert, well referenced posts. The way the headlight wash and self levelling reads (to me) is that the function of both is only checked if they are present. It does not determine if they should or should not be fitted. This is obviously open to the testers interpretation. LR have set precedent by fitting LED headlights to the limited edition spec vehicle. Seeing as it's unlikely to have obtained separate type approval, C&U regs etc one could argue that vehicles of this type could be retro fitted with LED lamps. As far as I'm aware headlamp levelling (operated from the roller switch on the dash) is fitted to 07> Defenders depending on trim level. Allowing for the unlikely possibility that the limited edition vehicles have self levelling headlights or suspension any department or operator failing an 07> vehicle for having LED headlamps would be opening Land Rover up for a hell of a lawsuit as one could argue that they are 'a factory option'. Interesting topic, I was looking at some J.W. Speaker LED headlights at last years LRO show. Kris

Thanks, I dropped EVS an email and they are sending me some details with a quote. Kris

Thanks Anderzander, that light looks very good value!

Thanks -Those Devon4X4 lights look just the job and I may even be able to mount them on the rack for a few inches of extra height to ensure they are visible with the rear door open. With regards to the strobes on Emergency Vehicle Solutions, i'm a little in the dark. Do they all require a flasher unit or are there some really simple ones that I can feed 12v and they will do their thing? At last years Peterborough show I remember seeing a 90 go into the ring with strobing indicators all round. I have googled and come up blank on this method. I don't think this is suitable for my requirements but I liked the idea for an unobtrusive method. Thanks, Kris

Hi folks, After 9 whole years since my last 110csw was stolen I have been able to finally rejoin the LR community. My new steed. . I am a professional pyrotechnician and the vehicle will allow me the scope to make our lives easier and certainly more comfortable on site. There are a few improvements I need to make from a safety point of view. High level stop/tail/indicators. I have been looking at the combo round led units to serve this purpose and not look massively out of place. Has anyone any experience or recommendations as for products or hurdles I may come across when wiring and fitting? Also as much as I hate it I sometimes need flashing beacons when moving around certain sites and venues due to having explosives on board. I flat refuse to have permanent amber beacons atop my pride and joy so the small strobing led heads seem the best solution for me. I was looking to mount these in the front of the rack and next to the high level lights. Again is there a recommended product or kit I could procure? My next quandary is scene lighting for de-rigging after a show. Sometimes firing points can cover hundreds of meters and good lighting speeds the process for the crews in often poor conditions. I'm looking at an led flood at the rear but I need something bright with a good throw and spread at the front. Are the Laser light bars worth the money? These seem to offer plenty of light with a less than massive current draw. I'm also looking at fitting an inverter in the future to run a laptop. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I intend to use the Landy for play as well as work hence the roof tent etc. I guess this will be my progress thread as I do bits and pieces. Thanks for reading/commenting with advice, it's most appreciated. It's good to be back! Kris

Too late for you i know but i'll add this one... I love it and my parents swear by it. http://www.thequietsite.co.uk/

I have sent you PM Kev, the plates definately belong to one of our customers cars, i knew i recognised it. We register/ed 90% of 'FP' plates. I reckon thats a Sturgess sticker in the bottom corner of the drivers side screen too. Nicked from Leicester i'll bet.

I will check at work when i get back in after lunch but i recognize the plate thats on the landy as a fiesta we sold and now service. Leicester area. so M69 isn't far. We have had a spate of thefts from farms the last month.

We had something similar over this way a while ago although it was a car with blue strobes etc. My old flatmate was a traffic policeman in the response car and always told me never to hand over my licence. It's better to get a producer and show your docs at the police station. I never understood why, i guess this is the answer to that question. Kris

I will take a 3XL Hoodie (I'm not fat, honest, things shrink in the wash , a 2XL t-shirt and a baseball cap please. Thats my clothes shopping done for this summer. I posted in the other thread too. Cheers. Kris.

Are you including orders from this thread as well as the other one?